Bornholm – Military History of a Contended Danish Island

The small island of Bornholm is today a popular destination for vacation time. Especially in the summer, the small and picturesque towns along the coast, as well as the curvy roads unwinding over the gentle slopes in the countryside, become increasingly crowded with cars, motorbikes, campers and bicycles – however, without reaching the point where a tourist who is looking for relaxation may feel uncomfortable.

The quiet and relaxed aura of this enjoyable piece of land, halfway between the German-Polish coast and that of Sweden – and nonetheless part of Denmark – hides a history pointed of battles and turmoil, lasting from the early era of the vikings until the Cold War.

Quick historical facts

Between the medieval times and the 17th century, the island was often seized by the Hanseatic League, binding together coastal towns in the Baltic and protecting trading routes. During the 17th century, Sweden became a major player in the area, and wars between Denmark and Sweden meant the island changing landlord more than once, with the locals always playing militarily in favor of a union with Denmark, to an extent made possible by their own forces, yet meeting with final success.

A largely forgotten war between Britain and Denmark, taking place in the years of total confusion brought about by Napoleon’s endeavors all over Europe, meant that Bornholm was attacked by the British fleet in more instance between 1808 and 1810, basically without any success.

World War II

The invasion of Denmark by the Third Reich and the capitulation of the Danish government, militarily unable to counter the irresistible march of Hitler’s military forces in April 1940, resulted in Bornholm being occupied by the Germans. The local Danish commander annotated the order not to resist the German take-over with disappointment, feeling that a firmer military response to the invaders was indeed possible. The island was fairly well organized and armed against an air-launched invasion.

The capitulation of Denmark without engaging in a military struggle allowed to obtain less harsh conditions from the occupants, including a limited independent military activity for the first years of WWII. However, a strong anti-German feeling fueled the growth of a resistance movement, including locally in Bornholm.

Similar to what happened to the Danish mainland (see this post), the military planners of the Third Reich included Bornholm in the coastal defense structure on the outer border of the newly acquired German territory – the so-called Atlantic Wall. In particular, construction of a fortress for four 38 cm cannons started on the south-eastern corner of the island, in Dueodde (similar to that in Hanstholm, Denmark, of Vara, Norway). The very efficient Organisation Todt had the first two emplacement largely complete by April 1941. By the attack on the Soviet Union in June 1941 however, and with the rapid expansion of the Third Reich to the east, the fortress in Dueodde was deemed of little use. In the event, construction works never reached completion.

Further significant war-related construction projects on Bornholm included observation posts and several radar stations (Würzburg and Freya types), which could profit from the location of the island on the route taken by bomber groups on their way back to Britain from raids over Berlin or the surrounding region. The proximity with respect to the facility for the development of experimental weapons at Peenemünde (see here) made of Borhnolm a natural place for the installation of measuring equipment. Furthermore, the main coastal town of Rønne – still today the largest center of the island, where most of the commercial and ferry sea traffic goes through – was largely employed as a base for the Kriegsmarine. Actually, more than 600 different German submarine units called this port during the war years, about one half of the entire German submarine fleet!

Diplomatic relations between the Third Reich and Denmark deteriorated rapidly in August 1943, when the Germans – now at a turning point of the war – launched operation Safari, trying to capture all assets of whatever military value from Denmark, thus also destroying its military capability. As a response, Denmark scuttled 32 of its own vessels, and sent a handful to Swedish or to even more distant friendly ports. In Borhnolm all Danish troops were disarmed and taken away from the island.

Somewhat paradoxically, the most tragic events of the war struck Borhnolm at the very end, when the island found itself off the coast of Poland, now taken over by the Soviet Red Army advancing from the east towards Berlin (see this post). As the fear of defeat and imprisonment grew among the ranks of Third Reich forces, following the heavy losses on the eastern front in Spring 1945, many German troops reached Bornholm to prepare for an escape further west, or north to neutral Sweden. This presence was noticed by Soviet intelligence, who intercepted communications mentioning several thousands of German military troops on the island – their actual number has been estimated at around 20’000 by May 1945. The war officially ended in Denmark on May 5th, 1945. However, at that time the chain of command and the communication system in the Third Reich had collapsed, and the local German commanders on Bornholm still retained the order to repel the Soviets with any possible means, without permission to surrender. As a result, the Soviets bombed the island twice, severely damaging Rønne and the port town of Nexø, unharmed up to that point, on May 7th and 8th, 1945.

Soviet Occupation

Following the two Soviet bombing raids, a group of six Soviet torpedo boats sailed from Kolberg, Poland (now Kolobrzeg, see this post), landed and reclaimed control of the island of Bornholm on April 9th, 1945. At that time, about 16’000 German troops and refugees were still on the island, trying to flee to the West or to Sweden by any possible means. Reportedly 700 boats of any kind were involved in this desperate evacuation operation, and about 5’000 Germans (military and civilian) had fled by sea just the day before the Soviet landing.

The anti-German resistance movement on Bornholm joined forces with the Soviets, trying to search for trapped German troops and prevent their escape to the West. The airfield in Rønne was captured on May 9th in one of these joint actions – specifically stopping a German aircraft already taxiing for take-off, after some others had already successfully got airborne! These operations went on until May 20th, and due to the very significant number of German troops still on site, they required drafting people in the Soviet-backed group of ‘freedom fighters’, which afterwards remained the only official local para-military group on the island, besides the Red Army (conversely, members of the the original voluntary resistance movement soon returned to their pre-war civilian occupation).

The Soviet presence on Bornholm constituted a potentially explosive problem. The agreement at Yalta between the US, Britain and the USSR in February 1945, months before the actual capitulation of the Third Reich, had defined that Denmark would remain independent, and specifically not within the Soviet-controlled territories in Europe. The British government, at that time still led by Churchill, was extremely worried by the Soviet capture of Bornholm, and after unofficially questioning the Soviets, the answer was even more appalling – according to Soviet diplomats, the island had to stay under Soviet control indefinitely, through the support of a military contingent of 9’000, soon to reach those already on site!

This led to the beginning of a peculiar page in the history of Bornholm, and of the diplomatic relations between the USSR and the West, which would soon get worse on a global scale, leading to the Cold War. Relations between the local Danish government and the Soviets were generally good at an official level, thanks to the skills of the local leading figure on the Danish side, von Stemann. To keep the public eye on this unsolved issue, he managed to organize an official visit of the Crown Princess of Denmark, who met the Soviet top staff on Bornholm. The day-by-day coexistence with the Soviets was less idyllic, with increasing incidents due to the misconduct of the bored Soviet troops stationed on the island, and the growing discontent among the locals. Uncertainty about Soviet plans fostered fear over a possible long-term occupation.

Finally in December 1945, Britain officially questioned the Soviet government about the case of Bornholm, and Molotov answered that the Soviet Union did not intend to have any permanent base in Denmark (as per the Yalta accords), yet the island was to be retained by the USSR as a guarantee, due to the presence of British troops on the Danish mainland.

The Danish government reacted preparing to retake full control of its own territory, correspondingly asking all foreign troops – from any nation – out of its borders. In March 1946 it was announced that the Soviet troops would leave the island of Bornholm, as Denmark prepared to install its own military forces back on it. In good order, the Soviets actually left the island, the last ship departing Rønne on April 5th, 1946.

The Cold War

Denmark joined NATO as a founding member in 1949, the result of the action of the then prime minister Hans Hedtoft, a former member of the resistance in Denmark, who had got a clear insight of the line of action followed by the Soviet Union, at that time still led by Stalin.

The support given by Denmark to NATO was not obvious for that country, since the proximity to the Eastern Bloc – especially Bornholm, geographically located close to the (by then) Soviet-controlled Polish coast – made Denmark extremely vulnerable and militarily untenable in case of a potential Soviet attack. The policy adopted by the Danish government over the decades of the Cold War in support of NATO was sincere but always carefully calibrated, to reduce the risk of Soviet intervention, which would possibly result in an extremely dangerous escalation.

Consequently, no international NATO base nor any nuclear warhead was ever permanently based in Denmark. Yet highly defended coastal strongholds were established, which can still be seen today (see this post).

Bornholm hit the headlines in the early phase of the Cold War, when the first-ever jet-propelled fighter from beyond the Iron Curtain defected to the West. This happened on March 5th, 1953, the very same day of Stalin’s death. The Polish pilot, 21 years old Franciszek Jarecki, had departed Slupsk airbase in northern Poland on a training mission, when he suddenly left his group and flew as fast and low as he could to Rønne, where he safely landed his aircraft, asking for asylum. The aircraft was a MiG-15, and that was the first time this new type of aircraft, which played havoc against propeller-driven machines in the early phase of the Korean War, could be inspected by Western powers.

The case was treated very carefully from a diplomatic standpoint by Denmark, to avoid provoking a violent reaction on the Soviet side. A technical inspection was carried out in a well-coordinated, highly secretive mission set up by the British and the US, ending with the restitution of the reassembled machine to Poland. Finally, the pilot was granted asylum in the US, where he had a remarkable military career (his flight suit from the defection mission ending up in the Smithsonian collection, at Udvar-Hazy Center, close to Dulles airport in Washington, D.C.). This topic is well covered in the excellent book ‘The secret MiGs of Bornholm‘ by Dick van der Aart (see the bookshop section).

Jarecki’s escape was not an isolated case, since in 1953 and 1956 two more Polish fighter pilots successfully landed (or crash-landed) their aircraft on Bornholm (while another made it all the way to Sweden). Then the Soviets had Polish fighter units relocated further south, where Bornholm was out of range, and took over control of the northernmost bases.

Defection to Borhnolm by air on a jet fighter was rare compared to the overall cases of people reaching Bornholm to flee either communist Poland or the GDR, similarly close to the island. For all the years of the Cold War, Bornholm constituted the goal of dozens of escape attempts, some of them successful, carried out mostly by sea.

The location well within the Soviet area of influence was exploited with the construction of a prominent intelligence base by Denmark, to the advantage of NATO forces. This was again in the Dueodde. The base was very effective and was updated to keep up with upgrades in electronic communication technology over the years until the end of the Cold War. It was later kept in service, and shut off only in 2012.

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A visit to Bornholm today will likely be for relaxation and for enjoying this nice country. However, for those with an interest for its peculiar history there are some very interesting collections and rare sites to visit. They allow to retrace in particular the rich military history of the island, without much effort and with great satisfaction for either researchers or the general public. This post covers five of them, four of which are museums. They were all visited in the summer of 2024, and all photographs were taken in that occasion.

Sights

Bornholm’s Defence Museum, Rønne

A good place to start the exploration of the military history of Bornholm, the Defence Museum (Bornholms Forsvarsmuseum in the local idiom) is located to the south of the town center of Rønne, the busiest seaport and the capital city of the island.

The museum is hosted in two old military buildings, including the local kastellet, a massive tower with a round base, built for coastal defense.

The collection is housed in the courtyard and on the two levels of the first building. For the relatively little area it covers, this collection is extremely rich and informative, with panels covering in depth some specific events, offered in multiple languages including English.

On the ground floor, an interesting exhibition on the evolution of the artillery in Bornholm starts with a display of very old cannons – including possibly the oldest preserved exemplars of some types – and insignia dating from the wars against Sweden.

Then more modern exemplars from the 19th century, and reaching to an American type 105 from WWII, employed on Bornholm in the Cold War period, allow to follow the evolution of this type of weapon.

For more curious visitors, little artifacts interspersed between the larger exhibits on display add much value to the collection. Training material for anti-aircraft artillery from the WWII era, including down-scaled fake aircraft targets, as well as various types of grenades and shells employed with the artillery pieces stationed on the island can be found on display between the big guns on the ground floor.

An original German aiming device has been positioned such to be still usable – you can see outside through the optical system. Note the eagle and swastika marking on the label.

A particularly interesting item, not easy to find in a museum, is a complete launching device for the Stinger missile. This type of ground-to-air anti-aircraft missile, albeit rather rudimentary compared to other offensive missile platforms, has turned out very effective in actual war scenarios, especially against slow-moving aircraft or helicopters. The compact launchpad, operable by a single gunner, features two launching tubes. Aiming is via a visor, and the trigger is placed on two pistol-like grips.

Many radio transmitters and receivers, including a sizable console with stacks mostly made in the US (look at the labels and tags!), are on display together with a rare computer, a Compucorp 625 Mark II, a standalone machine which was employed from the late 1970s to run a software for ballistic computations.

On the top floor of the same building, an exhibition covering some specific military episodes from the 19th century serves as an introduction to the rich collection of memorabilia from WWII and the Cold War.

Decorations from the Third Reich, as well as insignia, uniforms and personal everyday items belonging to the Wehrmacht troops, or to some specific people in the German staff living on the island, are on display, in most cases along with explanatory panels telling their peculiar stories.

Unusual items include a table with mottoes in German, an embroidered napkin with emblems from the winning powers of WWII.

As said in the introduction, Bornholm found itself on the trajectory of allied bombers returning from raids on today’s northeastern Germany (including Berlin). In more instances, bombers damaged by flak fire or by German fighter aircraft, hence unable to make their way home, were forced to crash-land on Bornholm. The detailed history of two of these bombers and their corresponding crews is told in a dedicated set of display cases, showing even the track followed by each of the crew members as they tried to flee Bornholm (occupied by the Germans). Some interesting memorabilia items are on display from those episodes, including personal belongings of the crew members, and cash notes in diverse currencies, with their names written on them. These notes were given specifically to crew members, to help them in case of landing in a foreign country in Europe.

From the same era is a perfectly preserved Enigma machine. This is presented together with a detailed story, which could be retraced by war historians in Bornholm. Actually, this specific machine was made in 1937 and largely employed on the Eastern front in the actions against the Soviet Union. When German troops were fleeing the northern coast of Poland and Germany in the last days of the war (May 1945), the machine arrived to Bornholm, where it was little employed, since the chain of command of the German Army had collapsed by that time. The machine was ditched in the water by the surrendering troops, but it was soon to be found, taken to a private house, and largely forgotten afterwards. Finally, it was donated to the museum decades later.

Another unusual display is about the relics of German experimental weapons landing in Bornholm, and the espionage operations related to their find. Due to the proximity with the island of Usedom and the research center of Wehrner von Braun in Peenemünde, launches from the polygon where V-1 and V-2 were being tested could be spotted sometimes from Bornholm. Actually, early exemplars of a Fieseler Fi-103, aka V-1, first stranded on Bornholm in July and August 1943. They were first discovered by two local Danish citizens belonging to the police, who took quick sketches and pictures, and passed them to the British through the anti-German resistance links. These turned out to be the first photographs of that new weapon to reach the western Allies. The two were captured and imprisoned by the German occupants, but eventually they managed to flee to Sweden.

Some relics of the V-1 crashed on Bornholm are on display, as well as memorabilia items belonging to the two Danes who found the relic. The latter include a British decoration presented for their service.

Additionally, interesting pictures show the contrail of a V-2 photographed over Bornholm, and the picture of another V-2 crashed in Sweden!

Further remains from the era include gauges from the cockpit of German fighter aircraft, captured by the Soviets as they were trying to takeoff from Bornholm and escape, and a ribbon from the ill-fated German passenger ship Wilhelm Gustloff. She was sank by a Soviet submarine roughly 60 miles east of Bornholm in January 1945, while enroute to mainland Germany from former possessions of the Third Reich in nowadays Poland, lost to the advancing Red Army. Losses are estimated in the range of 10’000, making this largely forgotten episode by far the worst-ever naval disaster in history.

Another rich section documents the presence of the Soviets on the island. Artifacts on display range from flags and direction signs for the stationing troops, written in Russian, to many personal items left behind by the Soviets.

Typical propaganda posters are on display as well, similar to more official and non-public items, like transcripts of communications between the local Danish and Soviet commanders from the age of the Soviet occupation of Bornholm in 1945-46.

Many evocative pictures are on display from that time as well, and similarly from the Cold War. Among them, pictures of the Polish MiGs landed on Bornholm, of the many ELINT and COMINT centers put on Bornholm during the decades of the Cold War (including the tower in Nexø, see here), and copy of the Soviet attack plan in case of war against NATO.

A final chapter documented in this nice museum is the service of the Danish Armed Forces within the UN in Cyprus. Tasked with border surveillance between the two regions on the island, Danish forces were involved in action – with some casualties – at the time of the Turkish attack in 1970. They only left the island in the early 1990s.

The kastellet is today mostly empty, and once inside, it is possible to appreciate the original architecture of this bastion, which saw action against the many attempts by foreign attackers to land on Bornholm.

On the outside and in a small depot on the side of the inner courtyard, further items are on display. Propellers from the WWII aircraft crashed in the area represent both the German Luftwaffe (Do-17 bomber) and the Western Allies (B-24 and Halifax bombers).

A Chaffee-type small tank and two armored vehicles are on display, together with naval guns, radar antennas, land robots and artillery aiming gear.

A peculiar sight is one of the observation turrets originally scattered on the territory of the island, for spotting aircraft or other flying stuff and promptly report it.

On display are also sea mines, sonobuoys, radar scopes and parts of torpedoes, some of them interesting Soviet models, likely recovered from the Baltic Sea during the Cold War.

Ahead of the entrance to the museum, a memorial stone has been put more recently by an association of veterans.

Getting there and visiting

The museum is located close to Rønne downtown, from where it can be reached with a short walk (about .3 miles south from the central touristic area). The address is Arsenalvej 8 – 3700 Rønne. There is a little parking area on site. The museum is professionally run, and it has its own dedicated website here (also available in English).

Visiting is strongly recommended as a first stop for an exploration of the military history of Bornholm. For war buffs, WWII and Cold War historians, this place has much in store, and a visit may easily take 2 hours. Less is required for a more basic visit, made easy also by the compactness of the display.

Bornholm’s Museum, Rønne

Bornholm’s Museum is the main facility dedicated to the history of the island. Located in a former hospital, you can immediately notice the presence of a bombing raid shelter in the courtyard. This is an original relic from WWII.

The museum takes all floors of a small building, and it is dedicated to the history of the island in all its aspects, and with artifacts from all ages, including Roman coins and viking accessories.

Of particular interest from the time of the vikings is a collection of golden plates. They are smaller than a human fingernail, and decorated with human figures and other subjects. Plus, they are really many! They are of special interest also due to the fact that nobody knows what they are. Archaeologists found them mostly on Bornholm, and in a much lower quantity elsewhere in Scandinavia.

Fast forward to the 20th century, the museum has on display interesting memorabilia from WWII and from the era of the Soviet occupation.

Among them are original decorations, documents and photographs, from both the German and Soviet sides.

From the early Cold War period, a small piece from Jarecki’s MiG-15 is preserved in a display case, with a picture of President Eisenhower receiving at the White House the first pilot defecting from Eastern Europe (apparently, a young John F. Kennedy appears to stand behind them).

Shop signs and indication signs in Russian, the original working desk of the Danish governor of the island at the time of the Soviet occupation, and everyday working tools belonging to the Soviet staff are among the displays in this museum.

A – perhaps – non-permanent exhibition is dedicated to the Soviets on the island, including the two air bombing raids they carried out in the closing days of WWII, which caused much destruction.

An interesting exhibition on the Cold War in Bornholm examines it from different perspectives. Among them, it is shown how preparations for a nuclear attack included the institution of a civil defense system, similar to most western Countries.

Similarly, the conspicuous wave of defections, of both military staff and civilians, from beyond the Iron Curtain to Bornholm is fully documented. Being located relatively close to the GDR and Poland, Bornholm was a natural target destination for those trying to leave the Baltic coast by sea. On display are documents of seamen asking for asylum, as well as a small dinghy employed for a successful escape attempt. A rather impressive full list of the successful and unsuccessful escape attempts towards Bornholm from the communist world is provided.

In another part of the museum, dedicated to everyday items and business activities, it is possible to find toys and other common tools from the Cold War era, as well as beautiful models of several vessels in service at that time – as well as today.

Getting there and visiting

The museum is one of the major attractions in Rønne, the capital city of the island. It is located within the perimeter of the historical center of the town, and you will be probably visiting it if you are interested in any aspect of the history of Bornholm. The address is Sankt Mortens Gade 29 – 3700 Rønne.

For those with an interest for the military history of the 20th century, the collection of this museum makes for a nice complement to that to be found in the Defence Museum (see above).

For a complete visit, 1 to 2 hours are likely enough. Less than 1 hour is needed if you are mostly interested to the WWII and Cold War part, including the nice exhibition on the Soviet presence.

The museum has regular opening times and a fully documented website here (also available in English).

Bornholm’s Tower, Nexø

The tower is an authentic relic from the Cold War. The intelligence site in Dueodde (close to the major town of Nexø, itself close to the southeastern corner of Bornholm) was originally established in 1958, in the facilities of an old lighthouse from 1876, which is still standing besides the new tower.

The task was that of intercepting communications from Soviet channels, primarily to the aim of knowing of any potentially offensive maneuver against Denmark or NATO in advance. The geographical location of Bornholm made it ideal for installing such a plant, since this territory is significantly farther east than the Danish mainland, hence closer to the Eastern Bloc and the Soviet Union.

Soon after the take over of the lighthouse by the Danish intelligence and the installation of the first technical gear, continuous improvement started around that facility, leading to the construction of a dedicated tower, which stood until the mid 1980s, and was extensively employed for gathering useful intelligence. Among the most notable information obtained in favor of NATO forces were the reports witnessing the preparation of an attack by the Warsaw Pact forces on Czechoslovakia, at the time of Dubcek’s attempted reformation of the communist system in 1968 – an invasion which eventually took place, tragically putting an end to a new political course in that Country.

The relevance of the site in Dueodde in the panorama of NATO intelligence is further shown by the decision to substantially upgrade the technical installation, demolishing the existing infrastructure and building anew a more modern and massive tower in 1986.

The new tower was operated continuously until 2012, when the installation was finally shut down, and the facility was partly demolished and sold. It is since then privately owned, and it has now reopened for visitors.

A visit allows to explore the foundations of the tower, where cables and pipelines – including compressed air and coolant fluid – can still be seen. Compressed air was employed for keeping in shape the special ‘shells’ where the technical stuff used to be put.

These shells were arranged hanging vertically from the concrete tower, which is the only part remaining today (the shells are gone, you can see two of the original platforms in the courtyard, close to the original cooling station). Coolant fluid was employed for the big servers which hosted and processed data. A wind monitoring cabinet – made in USA – can be found at the ground level of the tower.

By taking the original elevator, it is possible to climb to the top, where the view ranges in all directions, and allows to see the beautiful white dunes for which this area is mostly famous.

Inside the facility, mostly empty today, it is possible to see some remnants of the server rooms. Most of the empty rooms have been employed for a display of electronic cabinets and communication gear. A reconstruction of some of original technical rooms has been attempted, and the display is completed with historical pictures of the site.

Server rooms are among the preserved original parts of the tower.

Further rooms host displays related at large to WWII and the Cold War.

An interesting addition to the visit is an original MiG-15, presented in the colors of the Polish Air Force, and resembling those which fled from Poland to Bornholm, at the commands of brave early Cold War defectors. Photographs and copies of newspapers documenting those episodes are on display.

Interestingly, what appears to be a control surface or the part of a wing of an authentic Soviet aircraft can be seen on the side of the display, likely only provisionally.

Scattered along the walls in the exhibition are original pictures, with close-ups of intercepted aircraft from the Soviet bloc.

Getting there and visiting

The tower (Bornholmertarnet in the local idiom) is located close to the white dunes of the strand of Dueodde, on the very southeastern tip of the island, about 4 miles south of the major town of Nexø. The exact formal address is Strandmarksvejen 2 – 3730 Nexø. Large parking on site.

Visiting may take about 1 hour for the interested visitor. The tower can be climbed to the top with an elevator. Visiting the facility and exhibitions does not take much, since most rooms are basically empty.

The official website of this installation is here (multiple translations available).

Bornholm’s Technical Collection, Allinge

This incredible museum has been constituted through the merge of several private collections. In most cases they are very specialized selections of technical items. These range from tractors to airport vehicles, from pocket lighters to radios, from personal computers to naval radar scopes, and much more!

Besides well-stuffed collections, which strike for their size and range, there are also some specialties, like unusual items – typically relics or one-of-a-kind exemplars. Especially the latter include some items from the Cold War chapter of the history of Bornholm.

Actually, possibly the biggest item on display is a SAAB Draken aircraft. This excellent Swedish-made attack aircraft used to fly in the colors of the Danish Air Force (see this post). The exemplar on display comes with some of the accessories, including wing pods, the parachute for brake assistance, etc.

Close by the Draken, it is possible to find several aviation-related displays, like jet engines, optical gear, radar-receiving consoles. There is also the map of the scenic flights offered from an airport which does not exist any more, and which used to be close to the northern coast of the island (the only airport is today that in Rønne).

One of the jet engines looks like an evidence from an aircraft accident, involving a Learjet business jet crash-landed on Bornholm.

Not far from the Draken, another rare aircraft on display is a SAI KZIII, designed and manufactured in Denmark in 1946.

Further finds in the museum are a stop light, which was employed for stopping road traffic on local roads close to the runway, when an aircraft in need of a shallow approach path was landing in Rønne, and the doors originally in an airport building, with stickers of flight associations from all over the world.

A military trailer with radio communication gear is on display, as well as an old truck, which happens to be the very same truck seen boarded by young Soviet soldiers, at the time of the Soviet occupation of Bornholm!

A little collection is made of GDR-made items.

A small room is dedicated to marine detection gear and the corresponding scopes.

Bulky elements on display include a one-of-a-kind locally assembled truck, a monster roadworks machine made in the Third Reich and which never returned to Germany, and trucks for removing snow from the road. They have two engines, one moving the truck, the other moving the spool. The arrangement is rather involved, with an articulated (angled!) shaft carrying mechanical power from the engine to the spool.

Airport gear includes a SAAB car with a runway friction tester in the back, and a truck for spreading anti-ice fluid.

Other rich hi-tech collections include one with radio receivers, another with cameras and video-recorders.

Even one centered on personal computer consoles can be found.

The collection of tractors on display is really impressive, with machines coming from diverse nations and makers.

Other parts of the museum are basically old shops moved in, and in some cases with fully working machinery (like the blacksmith).

The list of collections is really huge! There is surely something for everybody on display.

Getting there and visiting

The museum can be found in the countryside, on the road 159 connecting Rønne to Allinge-Sandvig, one of the biggest settlements on the northern coast, about 1.5 miles from the latter. The exact address is Borrelyngvej 48, 3770 Allinge-Sandvig. Large parking on the premises.

The museum is very peculiar, it features rich collections and it is run by knowledgeable people who are willing to provide descriptions and information also in English. A visit may appeal to everybody including children, and not only to war historians. However, it is duly listed here especially for the war- and aviation-related collections in it. A visit to the entire museum may easily take about 2 hours, especially when talking with the locals. Much less is needed for a quick look at just some parts of it.

The website can be found here.

Soviet War Cemetery, Allinge-Sandvig

Even though Stalin’s USSR finally withdrew from the occupied territory of Bornholm, the conquer of the island by the Soviets in 1945-46 meant the construction of a Soviet war cemetery, similar to those to be found scattered on the territory of the former countries of the Eastern bloc.

A very unassuming and rather intimate monument was inaugurated close to the local Danish graveyard in Allinge-Sandvig. By agreement with the local government, the cemetery is still maintained today.

A central obelisk, with prominent emblems and writings in both Russian and Danish, is placed ahead of a large memorial stone, with the names of fallen Soviet soldiers on it.

Getting there and visiting

The cemetery can be conveniently reached uphill of the village of Allinge-Sandvig. The exact address is Pilegade 18A, 3770 Allinge-Sandvig. Parking is possible on the road in the immediate vicinity of the cemetery. The site is open-air and not fenced, therefore it can be accessed 24/7. Visiting may take 15 minutes.

German coastal gun site, Dueodde

The coastal guns in Dueodde, close to the southeastern corner of the island and the Cold War tower (see above), are not open as a museum, yet they are fairly easily accessible to the general public. They are the most sizable remains of the planned installation for four 38 cm coastal guns, part of the ambitious coastal defense program of the Third Reich known as Atlantic Wall. This particular fortress became pointless after the break-out of hostilities between Hitler’s Germany and the USSR in 1941, since the line of the front shifted significantly towards the east, far away from Bornholm. Since construction works were correspondingly halted, only the unfinished emplacements of two of the cannons remain today, respectively Nr.3 and Nr.4.

The emplacement Nr.3 is easily accessible from the road. You can see the large round base prepared for the revolving gun. The central pinion is still there (note the big diameter of the metal screws, compared with the cover of my wide lens!).

The circular corridor for moving the shells and taking them to the gun can be easily walked.

The construction to the north was planned to shelter the troops manning the station, as well as with a technical part for storing the shells and the explosive cartridges. Many rooms can be accessed – albeit a torchlight is mandatory in this area. However, they are completely empty, and there is nothing more than bare concrete.

The second site, Nr.4, is more secluded within a group of private homes. However, it can be accessed fairly easily by walking. It is basically a twin of the other emplacement, and the state of conservation (including, unfortunately, tons of stupid graffiti) is the same.

Getting there and moving around

The two emplacements are geographically extremely close to the Cold War tower described above. It is possible to park at the tower, in the large parking areas closer to the white dunes strand, or along the road in proximity to these installations.

The coordinates for parking and getting a quick access are for Nr.3: 55.00058432993301, 15.080803777073971, and for Nr.4: 55.00255210231893, 15.084640862385443.

Both sites are not fenced and accessible 24/7. Visiting may take 15 minutes for each of the emplacements – the condition is unfortunately not ideal, with many graffiti likely such to spoil your pictures.

Traces of World War II in Norway – Highlights

War actions in Scandinavia constitute a crucial stage in the unfolding of WWII events in Europe. The strategic position of the Scandinavian peninsula was not overlooked by strategists in the Third Reich and the USSR, and by the Western Allies. As a matter of fact, the German invasion of Denmark and Norway took place as early as the Spring of 1940, starting just weeks before the invasion of Holland, Belgium and France.

History & Remains – A Quick Summary

For Germany in WWII, the long and impervious coast of Norway constituted an ideal strong point to carry out raids over the North Sea, Norwegian Sea, the northern Atlantic and the Barents Sea, interfering with resupply convoys from Britain and the US. Especially after the start of the war against the USSR in 1941, the polar routes going to Murmansk – the only non-freezing port on the northern coast of the USSR – were within range of German warships and aircraft operating from the north of Norway. Control over Norway and Denmark meant total control on the access to the Baltic Sea, thus protecting the northern coast of Germany from direct attack by the Western Allies, allowing unimpeded action against the Soviet Union on that sea. Of the greatest importance in the northern European territory was also the abundance of raw materials – mainly metals for industrial production – so desperately needed by the Third Reich.

For the Allies, keeping Scandinavia was an objective of great relevance in the early stages of the war, since this territory could be a convenient springboard to launch attacks against the flat and easy coast of Germany. In the rapidly changing complex alliances and diplomatic relationships of the early stage of WWII (1939-40), Norway and Sweden tried to keep out of the war. Finland fought the Winter War against the USSR (itself one of the results of the Ribbentrop-Molotov pact, albeit not to the knowledge of the Finns), loosing part of its territory and strengthening its link with Germany for some years to come (see this post). The Third Reich attacked Norway by air and sea in April 1940, and help was sought especially in Britain. King Haakon VII of Norway left for exile in England, and the initial battles of WWII between the Reich and the UK were fought – mainly at sea – in proximity of Norwegian ports.

The Atlantic Wall

Possibly the most impressive military trace of WWII in Europe, the Atlantic Wall – a defense line stretching from France to northern Norway – was designed and built in Denmark and Germany, immediately following the successful push of the Third Reich into these Countries. Actually, those are the Countries where the most relevant remains of this interesting trace of war can be found today. A very ambitious project both in purpose and required resources, the Atlantic Wall never reached completion. Despite that, the geography of Norway, with a coastline featuring only limited access to the inland area, allowed to create an effective barrier against a potential enemy landing. Hundreds of gun batteries, complemented with anti-aircraft artillery and radars, constituted a powerful deterrent against any invasion. As a matter of fact, after the unique episode of the Battle of Narvik in the early stages of WWII, no Allied forces ever landed in Norway from the sea for the rest of the war.

A complete visit to all sites of the Atlantic Wall in Norway is a really immense task, due to the number of installations and their geographical remoteness. However, a few impressive highlights can be found in convenient locations, and can be easily visited by everybody. In this post some of them are presented – the colossal battery ‘Vara’, the southern fortified area of Lista, the forts of Fjell and Tellevik near Bergen, and the massive cannons of Austratt.

War Museums

But other fragments of the rich legacy of WWII in Norway can be retraced also away from the preserved installations of the Atlantic Wall. An interesting page is that of naval warfare deployed by the Navy of the Third Reich – the Kriegsmarine – to counter Allied shipping activities. Names like Tirpitz, Scharnhorst and Gneisenau are frequently found in history books as well as in movies or scale model shops, and they are just a few of the mighty vessels linked to the Scandinavian war theater. Dedicated exhibitions can be found in little but impressively rich museums on these topics. In this post, the Tirpitz Museum in Alta, the War Museum of Narvik and the exhibition in the visitor center of North Cape are covered.

Special interest sites

Heroic actions involving the Norwegian resistance organization are proudly remembered all over the Nation. A particularly interesting location being the Rjukan hydroelectric power-plant, which produced heavy water, a key-component in the research leading to the preparation of fissile material. This strategic asset was highly needed by the German nuclear program. On the other hand, its possession by the Third Reich was seen as a clear and present danger by the Allies, who tried to have the plant destroyed in several instances. The Norwegian resistance was clearly much involved in sabotage missions, due to the difficulty in targeting the place through air bombing raids. The power-plant is today a nice museum, covered in this post.

Photographs in this chapter were collected on a visit in August 2022.

Sights

The map below shows the location of the sites mentioned in this chapter. Their listing in the descriptions roughly follows a clockwise sense, starting from the southernmost point of Kristiansand (Vara battery). Red items are in disrepair, whereas blue ones are official tourist destinations.

Navigate this post – Click on links to scroll

Vara Battery – Kristiansand

The Vara battery was built as the core of the strongly fortified area around Kristiansand. Thanks to its position close to the southernmost tip of the Norwegian territory, this port town is still today very busy with passenger and freight traffic from nearby Denmark.

The Third Reich military started to lay sea mines as soon as it gained control of both sides of the Skagerrak strait. The coast around Kristiansand was reinforced with several coastal artillery pieces, and production of a set of special 38 cm caliber guns – called Siegfried -was started by the Krupp ironworks in Essen in 1940. The aim was that of controlling access to the Baltic sea by means of two batteries of long-range naval guns, one to the south in Denmark (Hanstholm, see here), and one to the north in Kristiansand.

The cannons should be capable of revolving by 360 degrees, and special concrete rotundas were prepared for the scope in a location called Møvik, on the southwestern end of the gulf of Kristiansand. The complex morphology of the terrain in this site led to a smaller than desirable area for the battery, where all technical buildings – including ammo storages – had to be built relatively close to one another. These massive constructions alone, built by the same ‘Organisation Todt’ responsible for the implementation of the coastal defense positions all over Europe, make for a remarkable work of engineering, carried out with the help of local builders, working relentlessly around the clock to have these emplacements ready as soon as possible.

In the event, only three of the four Siegfried cannons made their way to the battery in Kristiansand, one being apparently lost when the transport ship carrying it was sunk on the Baltic Sea. Transporting these 110 ton, around 60 ft long barrels by rail from Germany into the narrow valleys of Scandinavia was not an easy task. However, two cannons were test-fired in May 1942, and the third in November the same year.

The battery received the name ‘Vara’, after a high-ranking official killed in Guernsey in 1941.

Battery Vara went through the war without seeing an involvement in any major war action, and was mainly test-fired only. The whole installation, comprising target detection points, analog computers for target aiming, ammo storages – including more than 1.400 shells! – and many other service buildings, was inherited intact by the Norwegian Armed Forces in 1945, similar to many other installations along the coast of the Skagerrak and the North Sea. It was incorporated in the Norwegian coastal artillery between 1946 and 1954, being later placed in reserve having by then become obsolete for Cold War warfare standards. Two cannons were scrapped, whereas one – the only entirely surviving battery Nr. 2 – was luckily kept. The site survived subsequent stages of demolition works over the next decades, but in the early 1990s it was finally re-opened as a museum.

Cannon Nr. 2

Today, the centerpiece of the visit is constituted by a walk around the perfectly preserved building of cannon Nr.2. This bunkerized building is composed of a set of technical rooms, for ammo assembly and storage, as well as for services like Diesel power generators, and an adjoining rotunda, where the big cannon revolved around a pinion, and could be pointed to its target, following instructions from the battery control center. The latter elaborated target data from detection, identification, measuring and range-finding positions scattered around the battery perimeter.

Access to the back of the concrete building is via the original hatch, closed by iron doors. You can see the narrow-gauge railway track leading in. This linked the cannon buildings with the ammo storages around, and allowed to supply the cannon with ammo parts (the explosive cartridge and the shell are not assembled in a single unity for larger cannons, unlike for lighter weapons). The hatch drives you into a long corridor, the backbone of the bunkerized quarters behind the cannon rotunda. Here some shells have been put on the original railway trolley for display.

The cannon building hosted a permanent watch of a few men, which manned it permanently in shifts. A living room with some berths is the only one offering some comfort in the building.

A number of rooms in the bunker are dedicated to the power generator plant. A primary and a back-up generator share the same room. Of special interest are the labels on all machines and mechanisms, proudly made in Germany – in some cases, by brands still existing today.

Electric power was required for the motion of the cannon, besides for smaller appliances like lights and radios. The cannons could make use of the regional grid, but since an unstable supply might have damaged the cannon motors, aiming operations were often carried out on the controlled internal power grid, fed by the generators, and producing an optimal output.

Beside the generator room, the air conditioning plant (not for comfort, but to slightly pressurize the bunker in order to repel and pump-out poisonous or exhaust gas), the Diesel tank and the water tank for cooling the generator can be seen in adjoining rooms.

To the far end of the corridor, a radio room was used to maintain a link with the battery command post, located more than 1 mile away from Vara battery. Actually, by design the electric signals to orient the cannon could be given by the control post, and the radio communication system was there for backup.

On the other side of the corridor with respect to the generator rooms – i.e. towards the cannon rotunda – are four adjoining rooms, used to store the components of the explosive cartridges and shells. The shells and cartridges prepared for firing were moved via a crane to a tray, and from there sent side-wards to the rotunda, where they were loaded on a trolley. The cranes, trays and slots linking these rooms to the rotunda can be found around the area of the bunker closer to the rotunda.

The cranes moved along tracks hanging from the ceiling. These tracks had some switch points, allowing to allow the crane to move across different rooms in the bunker.

Inside these rooms, today you can find much original material of special interest. Specimens of high-explosive (yellow) and armor-piercing (blue) shells are displayed. The weight of the shells was around 800 kg, where the cartridge could feature different weights, roughly from 100 to 200 kg.

The top range of these cannons and shells was around 43 km. Smaller 500 kg shells could alternatively be fired by Siegfried cannons, with a longer range of 55 km. Furthermore, the cannon could be test-fired during drills with smaller caliber shots, by reducing the bore of the cannon. This was a very useful feature, since the estimated loss of barrel metal due to attrition was a staggering 0.25 kg per shot, implying a life of the barrel of only around 250-300 shots, firing with sufficient accuracy. Shooting smaller shells allowed to spare barrel wear and extend the time between overhauls of the cannon.

The sealed canisters for the explosive cartridges, with original markings in German, can still be seen piled in a room!

More material on display includes a rare example of fire direction computer. Actually, that on display is smaller than the one originally used for the long-range cannons of Vara battery, but it provides a good idea of the level of sophistication of this mechanism. Data like target distance, velocity, orientation, wind speed and direction, etc. were set as input to this analog computer, producing fire direction variables to point the cannon. An incredible masterpiece of engineering and craftsmanship, this type of computer is difficult to find in museums, and allows to appreciate the level of development of warfare back in the 1940s.

Data including range of the target was found with the help of special instrumentation. A stereoscopic range-finder was installed in the battery command post, with an arm of 12 m, which allowed good accuracy for very distant targets – required for the long range of the cannons of Vara battery. Smaller instruments with the same principle are displayed in one of the rooms.

Among the special features of this bunkerized building are the restored, original writings from German times, as well as a one-of-a-kind painting made by a Soviet prisoner of war.

From the bunkerized room, you can get access to the rotunda. Cartridges put on trolleys moved along a circular railway track all around the rotunda. This way, cartridges could be taken to the cannon whatever the direction it was pointing. Once to the base of the cannon turret, the explosive charge and the shell were lifted separately by means of two special elevators, up to the level of the gun shutter.

An impressive feature of the rotunda is the ring cover for the circular railway. In order to protect the railway passage from above, while allowing the cannon to rotate, a roof made of thick metal scales was implemented. When revolving around the pinion, the cannon turret would automatically lift the scales on its passage. The sound of the scales being lifted and released while the cannon body was revolving must have been really an experience!

Pictures can hardly tell how big the cannon turret is!

Following an exploration from beneath, you can exit the bunker building, climb up to the level of the barrel, and finally enter the turret.

Here the back of the barrel dominates the relatively large firing chamber. The shutter has been left open, so you can see the sunlight through the barrel.

The shell and explosive charge were received from the two elevators on a special tray, and here they were finally aligned one before the other. Somewhat in contrast to the top-notch technology level of the installation, the cartridge had to be pushed from the back into the barrel by hand. A long wooden stick was used for the task. Actually, it was so long that it protruded from the back of the cannon turret, thus requiring a small hatch to be pierced in the metal armor correspondingly. On one side of the barrel, instrumentation for measuring the pointing direction is still in place.

Air-pumping mechanisms can be clearly seen, similarly to communication phones to the back and top of the room.

Cannon Nr. 1

The position of cannon Nr.1 was prepared unusually close to that of Nr.2. As said, this was due to the limited available area on the uneven coast section where the battery was put in place. However, Nr.1 never received a cannon. Conversely, it was modified later in the war, when experimenting with cannon protection from air-dropped high-yield bombs. The rotunda was capped with a very thick concrete roof, sustained by sidewalls which limited the side-wards rotation of the cannon to 120 degrees.

The rotunda can be walked freely. The central pinion is still in place. Inside, the ceiling is covered in original metal panels. The round corridor for the trolleys can still be seen, but there is no access left to the bunkerized part.

The firing position can be climbed, and from the elevated top you get a great view of the battery and of the area ahead of it.

Other buildings

Following the railway around the site is a great way to find what remains today of the original installation. There are two bulky ammo storages. These were reportedly more thickly armored than usual, in view of a higher risk of getting hit, due to the unusual proximity with the cannons – designated targets for the enemy.

Furthermore, other smaller buildings are scattered around, which may have served as storage for lighter weapons.

The positions of cannons Nr. 3 and Nr. 4 have been largely demolished, and access is permanently shut to the bunkerized part. However, you can easily climb to the top level, to get a nice view of the rotunda.

Visiting

Vara is in the top-five list of the most famous surviving installations of the Atlantic Wall in Europe, and a visit to this destination is in itself a good reason for a detour to Norway for war historians and like-minded people. Due to its proximity to the port of Kristiansand, just minutes apart by car, and the relatively easy-to-reach location in the most populated part of Norway, it is also a top destination for any tourist in the area. As a matter of fact, the place is run as a top-level museum, with great reception capability, and is visited by thousands of visitors per year.

Visiting can be performed on a self-guided basis, with an explanation leaflet which allows to get much from your visit, especially if you are not new to installations of the Atlantic Wall (which are mostly standardized, despite Vara having really oversized guns!). A tour of the main features – cannon Nr.2 and the building of Nr.1 – may take 1 hour at least, for an averagely interested person. For an in-depth visit and a quick tour of the premises including other remains, more than 2 hours are needed. Thanks to the exceptional level of conservation and the explanation of whatever is on display, the visit is not boring and may be very rewarding even for younger people.

Large parking on site, picnic tables and warm reception are available – as usual in Norway! Website with full information here.

Nordberg & Marka Batteries – Farsund

Located in the southwestern corner of the Norwegian territory, about 100 miles south of the port of Stavanger, the municipality of Farsund encompasses a number of small coastal villages, around the landmark represented by the lighthouse of Lista.

Two batteries were set up by the German occupation forces as part of the Atlantic wall, both fully operative by 1942. The northern one is called Nordberg fort, where the southern one, very close to the shore line, is known as Marka fort. Between the two, the Germans installed a full-scale airbase, with a runway of roughly 1.5 km, complemented by hangars and shelters largely standing today. Following the end of WWII and the withdrawal of the German military, all these installations were converted for military use by the Norwegian armed forces, which also developed the original airfield into a more modern airbase by stretching the runway.

Today, Nordberg fort is a museum. The German Navy was in charge of the station, which had as centerpieces three 150 mm cannons, with a range of around 23 km. The cannons have been scrapped (with the exception of a lighter piece of Russian make). However, the firing positions are still there, linked by a semi-interred trench.

You can see also the original control point for the battery, developed by the Norwegians more recently, and the concrete base for a radar antenna originally on site.

Several original buildings for services – canteen, hospital,… – are still there, making for a an interesting opportunity to see how this installation looked like back in the 1940s.

The Marka fort was assembled around six 150 mm guns, located very close to the sea, grouped in two batteries of three firing positions each. A huge bunkerized command post was built in the premises of the fort. Today, after the Norwegian military left at the end of the Cold War, the Marka battery is basically a ghost site, despite being still in a relatively good shape.

The control bunker is especially interesting, since you can access the top level and watch the sea from the very same room and windows originally used by the German Navy troops! The general arrangement of the bunker is similar to other command posts you can find on the Atlantic Wall – especially in Denmark (see here).

The positions for the coastal guns can be reached close to the control bunker. They are uncovered round areas, slightly below the level of the ground, framed by a circular reinforced sidewall.

More Atlantic Wall remains, like bunkers, foundations for radar stations, or emplacements for lighter guns, can be  be found scattered in the area of Farsund – which kept its military site status well after the Germans had left.

Visiting

The museum of Nordberg keeps some of the buildings on the respective site open. However, the majority of the site is open 24 hours, and can be walked freely. A visit may take about 1 hour. A convenient parking can be found right ahead of the modern and welcoming visitor center, from where you can effortlessly reach most of the points of interest in this installation. Website with full information here.

The site of Marka – not part of any museum – can be approached at any time with some walking in the rural area along the coast line. A good starting point for an exploration is here, where you can leave your car and move along an easy trail to the command bunker and the gun rotundas about 0.5 miles west.

Fjell Fortress – Bergen

Bergen was a strategic base of the German Navy, which received a fortified submarine deck among the largest, most active and longest lasting in the history of WWII. The complex morphology of the territory around this port town allowed to effectively protect the access by means of a network of nine firing emplacements. One of them – Fjell – was of exceptional power and range.

It was built between 1942-43 diverting one of the batteries of battleship Gneisenau, which had been damaged beyond repair by an air raid while in port at Kiel (Germany). The battery was composed of three 28 cm guns in a single turret. The latter was very compact in design, a real masterpiece of naval engineering, but nonetheless it featured a rather tall substructure, with all that was needed to operate the guns – protruding from the relatively sleek top of the turret, surfacing on the ground.

Placing this special battery in Fjell required carving the rocky coast, creating a cylindrical underground pit, inside coated with concrete, to host the turret. The turret, an assembly of around 1.000 tonnes with the guns on top, was then transported up to this elevated site, and lowered into the pit. The battery was test fired in the mid of 1943. It acted as an effective deterrent, and reportedly never used in combat.

The battery was incorporated in the Norwegian coastal defense after WWII, and sadly scrapped in 1968, since by then obsolete, but not yet considered an historical landmark.

Clearly, the battery was in the middle of an off-limits military area in wartime, where bunkers for several services and for the the troops, at least two radar antennas and many emplacements for lighter defensive weapons were installed to protect the battery from ground and air attacks.

Today, the bunker-pit where the turret used to rest is the centerpiece of a visit to the site. Starting from the visitor center on top, where the guns used to be, you can descend to the base of the cylindrical pit – roughly 30 ft in diameter and 75 in depth! Here you can see the rooms originally employed for storing the explosive cartridges and the shells for the cannons. These were supplied on trolleys and slides, and sent inside the metal turret, to be lifted up to the level of the cannons for firing.

Most of the original German mechanical and electrical systems is still there to see, including wiring, phones, cranes, trolleys, and examples of shells and cartridges.

Back then, you got access to these storage areas from an entrance on the same level (i.e. not from the top of the turret, but from the base). You can see this entrance, as well as the curved corridor leading from the gate to the ammo storage area. Here, examples of sea mines and other war material can be found. The corridor has narrow-gauge railway track, which was used for resupplying the ammo storage from outside.

The corridor is curved, and firing positions are strategically placed to cover it, in order to counter enemy intrusion.

The bunker gives access to the living quarters for the troops. These are well preserved, and feature brick walls to help insulating the inside from the wet rock of the walls and ceilings.

Services, like toilets, sauna, washing machines and more, are original from the German tenancy. Especially the water basins appear very stylish, a good example of German design from the era.

Besides the main turret bunker, as said the Fjell site offers other constructions on a vast area, which can be checked out from the outside – also since the premises are at least formally military grounds still today.

The road reaching the site from the parking, gently climbing uphill, is reportedly the original main access to the Third Reich site. An interesting tank-stopping device can be seen to the lower end of the road – heavy stones on top of light pillars on the sides of the road. The pillars could be blown, and the stones would fall cutting the road, in case of a potential intrusion.

Visiting

The fort of Fjell, about 15 miles west of central Bergen, is professionally run as a museum. Parking is only possible to the base of the cliff where the turret used to stand. From there, a 0.8 miles road climbs to the entrance. The scenic location and the nice rural area around make for an enjoyable walk. Visiting inside is only possibly on guided tours, offered also in English (an possibly other languages). A small restaurant can be found on top, where an observation deck has been built in place of the battery.

The location of the parking is here. A visit may take around 45 minutes, excluding the time needed to climb uphill and descend to the parking. Website with full information here.

Tellevik Fort – Bergen

The coastal fort of Tellevik, on the eastern head of the Norhordland Bridge, 15 miles north of Bergen, was part of the lighter defense artillery put in place by the German military to defend any access by water to Bergen. The battery was built by order of the Third Reich, profiting from the forced labor of Soviet prisoners of war.

Lighter howitzers were enough to cover the narrow water passages in proximity of the town. The elevation of the emplacement is low, slightly above the water surface.

The battery of Tellevik was centered on two such howitzers, placed on open-top positions. The two guns can be seen still today, on round concrete firing positions. The giant bridge today largely obstructing the field of sight was not there at the time of the German occupation.

The site displays also a concrete trench, connecting the firing positions with a command post for the battery.

A monument to Norwegian seamen victims to sea mines laid by the German to protect the access to Bergen is concurrently located on the site of the Tellevik battery.

Visiting

Tellevik is an open air memorial, which can be walked freely 24/7. It can be reached by inputting these coordinates to a GPS navigation app.

A visit may take about 15 minutes, a nice detour from exceptionally crowded downtown Bergen.

Austrått Fortress – Austrått

Similar to Bergen, the major port of Trondheim was a strategic base for the German Navy. Protected by a long firth, the port was an ideal base for submarines and warships, to intercept convoys in the North Sea, Norwegian Sea, the Atlantic Ocean and the Barents Sea. Correspondingly, a number of coastal forts was prepared by the German occupation forces to counter any unauthorized access to the waterways leading to Trondheim.

The most powerful and impressive of these batteries is the Austratt Fort. Similar to the fortress of Fjell near Bergen (see above), Austratt received one of the turrets of the ill-fated battleship Gneisenau, damaged while moored in Kiel, in February 1942. A control and aiming position was put in place a few miles apart along the coast, whereas the battery was surrounded by an off-limits area, stuffed with bunkers for the troops, ammo storage bunkers, and lighter guns for protection against an attack by land.

A major difference between the two ‘sister sites’ of Fjell and Austratt is that in the latter the cannons are still there!

Following the installation of the turret, test fired in September 1943, the fort saw little action, acting as a deterrent, and effectively preventing any serious intrusion by the Allies towards Trondheim from the sea. After the demise of the Third Reich, the fort was taken over by the Norwegian coastal defense, stricken off in 1968, and restored as a museum in the early 1990s.

The cannons are on top of a hill. From the outside, the massive three-barreled turret is really impressive in size!

The barrels can be seen besides the original range-finder – with its impressive arm, granting good measuring accuracy even at a large distance from the target. This item, with its bell-shaped cover, was originally part of the control point, located southwest of the battery, in a location currently very close to an active base of the Norwegian Air Force (Orland).

Despite access to the the firing chamber being possible through a hatch to the back of the turret, the tour follows the way a shell would travel from storage to firing. Hence you start your tour from an entrance to the side of the hill, at the same level of the bottom of the cylindrical tower supporting the guns. This metal tower was taken from the Gneisenau together with the cannons, and put in a pit carved in the rock for the purpose in Austratt.

Access through the side of the hill is protected by a smaller gun. Once inside, you find yourself in a curvy corridor, with a narrow-gauge railway track for the trolleys needed to carry the shells and cartridges inside. A firing position behind an embrassure points against the entrance, for further protection of the site against an intrusion.

The bunker in Austratt – but the same happened to many installations of the Atlantic Wall in Norway – was plagued with severe humidity problems. Immediately besides the entrance, a room with a water basin is fed by natural water dripping from the ceiling and from the rocky walls around.

Original machines for tooling, put in place for maintenance purposes back in the Third Reich years, are still there and working. Similarly, a primary and a backup Diesel generators supplying the fort are still in place, with all ancillary plants, like big Diesel and water tanks for cooling. This is original machinery too, as witnessed by the tags of the mechanical components, all made in Germany.

Living quarters were at the bottom level too. Trying to supply some comfort, the rocky walls were covered with bricks and wood, especially against humidity. These rooms have been partly refurbished with a good resemblance to the original ones. They include the kitchen and some of the sleeping quarters for the troops. However, since humidity was really extreme, troops spent limited time here especially for sleeping, and provisional barracks were built outside of the installation instead.

Hygienic services were reportedly extremely advanced compared to Norwegian standards of the time. Fully working toilets, lavatories and showers were taken as a blueprint by the Norwegian Army after the war. The electric water heater put in place in the Austratt battery was apparently among the first installed in the whole Country – it can still be seen.

Explosive cartridges, fuses and shells arriving from the bunker entry you have walked through at the beginning of your tour would be eventually lifted upstairs. Shells, either high-yield explosive or armor-piercing, would be stored in a chamber featuring cranes hanging from the ceiling, used to put the shells on trolleys. These trolleys transported the shells to the lower level of the turret. The chamber where the shells were stored is physically separated by the turret by means of a concrete wall.

Tight compartments are often found in war bunkers of the Atlantic Wall, and this can be explained by the fact that the deadliest effect of an enemy shot (either a cannon shell from a warship, or an air-dropped bomb) would be that of an overpressure wave (shockwave), capable of killing many in just moments. Overpressure effects can be effectively reduced by putting physical obstacles on the way the shockwave would travel – walls, tight doors, etc. – or by forcing it into smaller passages, like hatches or smaller doors and windows. Therefore, bunkers like Austratt are built in rather small rooms, connected only through narrow hatches and doors.

Again in the storage chamber for the shells, extensive writing in German can be found on many of the mechanisms and electric plants. Everything is original and exceptionally well conserved, just like the Germans had just left!

The lowest level of the turret, where the shells would arrive from the storage chamber to be loaded on elevators going to the upper levels, is a masterpiece of engineering. The technical problem here was that of connecting the slides from the storage chamber, which are anchored to the ground, to the receiving slides on the turret, which could pivot around 360 degrees. The designer of the turret solved the issue by placing an intermediate ring, revolving independently, and capable of connecting the fixed slides from the storage chamber to the revolving platform on the turret. The extremely compact size of the overall design, originally prepared for fitting into a warship, and the elegance and precision of the mechanism resemble those of a pocket watch from the 1920s more than a cannon!

On the turret, you can see three elevators for the three barrels, which were therefore fed independently.

Going upstairs, you meet the storage room for the explosive cartridges. These used to be stored in sealed canisters on display, original from the time. This storage room is placed to the side of the corresponding level in the turret, in a similar fashion to the shells storage below.

Climbing up one more level inside the turret, you reach a platform with the motors for moving the battery around its vertical axis, and for lifting or lowering the three monster barrels. The motion involved high-pressure mechanisms, rather complex and requiring many valves and extensive piping.

To the back of each of the barrels, you can see a large empty volume for recoil. The battery rested on a ball bearing – one of the pretty sizable metal balls is on display.

Finally, the firing chamber can be found on the top level in the turret. Here the shells and cartridges were received, aligned and loaded from the back into the barrels by a pushing mechanical arm. Three independent mechanisms were put in place for the scope in the firing chamber.

To the front of the battery, instrumentation for aiming can be found, with writing in German. Also radio positions are there.

Battery fire could be triggered by a single man, sitting to the back of the turret in front of a control panel with three independent triggers.

You can exit the turret from the hatch to the back of the turret, concluding your tour. In the video below you can see a portrait of the battery from the air, made with a drone.

All in all, similar to the Vara battery (see above), Austratt is in an exceptional state of conservation in the Norwegian and European panorama of artillery engineering from WWII, and a visit may be super-interesting for any public.

Visiting

Despite being relatively close to Trondheim on a map, as usual in Norway, Austratt is a more than two hours drive from the town, and reaching requires taking at least one ferry. However, as noted, this location is a pinnacle in the Atlantic Wall, and surely deserves a visit for technicians and non-technical public as well, and of course for the kids.

Access to the exterior is possible at any time, but visiting inside is only possible on guided tours. The guide is very knowledgeable and makes the visit interesting also for a technically-minded public. The visit inside may take around 1 hour, more if you make questions and show some interest. Convenient parking by the gate of the fort, easy access to the area around the battery. Moving inside can be requiring for non-fit people.

Website with full information here.

Arctic Circle & North Cape

As pointed out in the introduction to this chapter, Norway is rich of memorials from WWII. Even close to some of the attractions in this wonderful Country which are must-see stops for other reasons, features recalling memories from war actions are offered to a curious eye.

Two notable examples are the visitor center of the Arctic Circle along the E6, as well as that of North Cape.

Scandinavia has been a bloody and extremely active theater of war all along WWII, and Norway was directly involved in significant war actions since the first year of the conflict. As a matter of fact, most of the impressive line of fortifications constituting the Atlantic Wall was erected by deploying forced laborers, typically prisoners of war from the Eastern Front, primarily including Russians, other people from the USSR, and Balkan prisoners.

Soviet troops attacked the northernmost German-occupied region from the North, together with the Finns, after the latter negotiated a separate peace with the USSR in late 1944. The retreating Germans opposed a fierce resistance, and it was in this latest stage of the war that most physical damage to towns and installations was caused in Norway, since German troops were ordered to burn up all positions they had to leave.

These facts explain the many Soviet monuments and war cemeteries scattered especially in the northern part of Norway still today – commemorating Soviet soldiers fallen either in war actions or as prisoners of war in the harsh conditions of northern Norway.

One such monument, albeit overlooked, is prominently placed besides the visitor center of the Arctic Circle.

The interest of Germany for Norway was primarily for its strategic position, which became an asset of special value after the start of the war against the USSR in mid-1941. The convoys feeding vital material to the USSR from Britain and the US had to go to Murmansk (see here) and the Kola Peninsula, i.e. over the Barents Sea. This was conveniently controlled by the German occupants, operating from the Norwegian coast.

In the visitor center of North Cape some panels are dedicated to this topic, showing an impression of the structure and routes followed by Allied convoys going to the USSR.

Detailed panels with maps and pictures recall the last battle of the German battleship Scharnhorst, which was confronted by the group of the British battleship HMS Duke of York, in an epic battle relatively close to North Cape. The massive German battleship, deployed to Norway with Tirpitz (a sister ship of the famous Bismarck) to block the resupply traffic to the USSR, was hit several times and finally sunk in the freezing last days of 1943. The battle was posthumously named ‘Battle of North Cape’. A detailed scaled model of the German battleship is similarly on display in the visitor center.

Visiting

The visitor center of the Arctic Circle on the road E6, with a small Soviet monument, can be found here. The monument is open 24/7.

The visitor center of North Cape is… at North Cape! The inside can be accessed during opening times, and the tables with information on WWII convoys and battles are on an underground mezzanine. Website with full information here.

War Museum – Narvik

The port town of Narvik was founded in the 19th century as a commercial base for exporting iron ore from Sweden. A small town by the sea, surrounded by steep-climbing mountains, and in a remote location well north of the Arctic Circle, Narvik was turned for about two months into a though theater of war for the Germans, following their occupation of Norway.

It was here that the British started a battle to stop the German push to the north, as soon as the 10th of April 1940, basically at the same time as the Germans had reached the town during their conquering campaign.

What resulted was a complex, multi-stage operation, lasting until early June 1940.

At first, the British fleet mounted a naval attack, carried out with a flotilla of five destroyers. This force clashed with the local German complement of ten destroyers. The British operation met with mixed success, and was finally repelled by the German navy operating in the narrow waters around Narvik, at the price of two destroyers on each side – plus several cargo ships destroyed in the battle. Three days later, on the 13th of April, a new force, composed of the British battleship HMS Warspite and 9 destroyers, launched another assault, resulting in the complete loss of the German destroyers fleet in the region – German warships were either sunk or scuttled.

The Germans however kept control of the town. A mixed force of British, Polish and French troops, together with the Norwegians, started an operation to conquer the town by land. The operation was successful, and the German troops had to retreat along the coast, away from Narvik. However, the start of the Battle of France – the invasion of France by the Third Reich – on the 10th of May, 1940, resulted in a rapid loss of priority of Narvik as a strategic target for the Allies. It was decided in Britain to withdraw from Norway, and to evacuate all previously landed military forces from Narvik. The town fell under German control on June 8th, basically concluding the conquer of Norway by the Third Reich.

The Allied landings around Narvik in 1940 where the first on the European continent in WWII, carried out without the participation of the US, more than three years before operations in southern Italy or Normandy.

The town of Narvik is still today an active commercial port of primary relevance in the region. The heritage of war actions is preserved in a purpose-installed museum, modernly designed and easy to visit.

On a first floor, the naval operations around Narvik are described by means of technological 3D board with virtual projections – very nice and lively. Around the board, memorabilia from the British and German warships taking part to the operations back in the Spring of 1940 have been put on display.

They include an original Nazi eagle from one of the ships. Since the campaign around Narvik included also air and land operations, war traces including parts of aircraft, guns, mortars, machine guns, first-aid kits and many uniforms are also on display.

Uniforms are from the many corps which took part to those actions – they are British, German, Polish and even French.

On a second floor, you are offered displays of artifacts retracing other aspects of WWII in Norway. These include land mines – put in place by the Germans along the coast, similar to Denmark, to impede Allied landings – an Enigma coding machine, Third Reich memorabilia, a section of the Tirpitz armored hull, radio machinery supplied to the resistance, as well as personal items belonging to former prisoners of war.

Finally, on the last floor heavier weapons are put on display, including torpedoes, light armored vehicles and more, even for post-WWII times.

Visiting

The battle of Narvik is one of the best known from WWII in Norway, and the little museum in the town center duly retraces its timeline, through an elegant exhibition, sufficiently rich to satisfy even the most exigent experts, but not so extensive to be boring for the general public. A really well designed museum, surely worth a visit, which may last from 30 minutes to 1 hour depending on your level of interest.

The location is right besides the town hall, and can be found here. Parking opportunities on the street nearby. Website with information here.

Tirpitz Museum – Alta

The German battleship Tirpitz was laid down as the only sister ship to the well-known Bismark. Eventually, she underwent developments which made her the heaviest battleship built in Europe. Her actions were concentrated along a limited time frame, between January 1942 and November 1944, when she was finally sunk by British Lancaster bombers, making use of Tallboy high-yield bombs.

She spent her operative life along the coasts of Norway, where she constituted an effective deterrent against a sea-launched Allied invasion, and was employed tactically against resupply convoys going to the USSR.

Tirpitz was a strategic target for the Allies, which tried to get rid of her by no less than seven war operations, meeting with limited success until the last one.

With an armor more than 30 cm thick, Tirpitz was marginally maneuverable especially at lower speed, but the hull was very difficult to penetrate, and the four turrets and eight 38 cm barrels, plus twelve side-shooting 15 cm barrels, complemented by many more defensive weapons, made it a dangerous asset against land and sea targets.

The ship capsized and sunk in shallow water in the bay of Tromso, and following the end of the war, she was largely dismantled. Original pieces of the ship could be collected, as well as some personal belongings from the crew. Some more were taken out from the water over the years.

The museum in Alta is dedicated to the memory of the ship, and offers an extremely rich collection of items connected with Tirpitz. Furthermore, by means of memorabilia items, it retraces the history of the war years in the northernmost region of Norway – Finnmark. The reason for installing the Tirpitz Museum in Kåfjord, near Alta, is bound to the fact that the battleship was based here for a period, as witnessed by some historical pictures. The museum has a rich guestbook, which includes top-ranking military staff from several Countries.

The small museum is home to some of the finest and largest scales models portraying Tirpitz. The level of detail and the accuracy of the reconstruction is really stunning.

Some smaller diorama models portray scenes from the life onboard, or details of special interest. An unusual one portrays the capsized hull of the ship, following the sinking!

Besides the scale models, original instrumentation, shells, wooden slabs from the deck, and more parts of the ship are put on display.

A room is dedicated to the operations carried out against the battleship. The ship was reportedly attacked several times without substantial damage. One of the attacks was carried out by the British, recurring to mini-submarines. Among the artifacts on display are the decorations to the men involved in these operations.

Extremely interesting artifacts in the museum include material from the crew, taken away after the sinking over the years – sometimes found in the area as recently as the year 2000.

These include typewriters, cutlery with swastika emblems, musical instruments, sport suits with prominent Third Reich insignia, and many personal belongings.

In one case, the cabinet or wallet of a crewman revealed cash and stamps from the time.

Among the countless items in this exhibition are original material – including radio stations – employed by the resistance movements in Norway, as well as light weapons, uniforms and decorations of the Soviet troops who operated in the Finnmark region, helping in repelling the Germans in the last stages of WWII.

On the outside, the anchor and parts of the armor of Tirpitz can be seen, together with an official memorial stone.

Visiting

The museum is located some five miles from Alta, in the small settlement of Kåfjord. It is hosted in a single, small wooden building – possibly a former canteen – to be found here, with a small parking nearby. A website with full visiting information is here.

Visiting the museum may take from 30 minutes to 1 hour depending on your level of interest.

Vemork Hydroelectric Power Plant & Heavy Water Facility – Rjukan

The nuclear program of the Third Reich is still today a matter for researchers, since – mysteriously enough – most documentation disappeared by the end of the war. Among the ascertained facts were the excellence of nuclear scientist in Germany at the time on the one hand, and the total lack of adequate quantities of raw material, or plants for processing it, to actually build real nuclear weapons on the other.

The latter is witnessed by the great strategic value attributed to the plant in Rjukan, hidden in a scenic deep valley in the region of Telemark, in southern Norway, about three hours by car from Oslo. A hydroelectric plant there – the exact name is Vemork power-plant – was employed to produce heavy water through a dedicated electrolysis separation process, which requires huge amounts of energy. Heavy water is a key component for the production of Plutonium – in turn required for atomic weapons – in heavy-water reactors.

Also the Norwegians understood the value of the plant. As soon as the winds of war started blowing from Germany in early 1940, heavy water then in storage was taken away to France, and later to Britain following the invasion of France by the Third Reich.

After Norway had been occupied by the Reich, the plant was at the center of three sabotage operations. Extremely risky and partly ending in disaster, these operations were carried out both by Norwegian and British staff, parachuted from Britain.

It took until 1944 to mortally hit the plant, well protected by its own natural setting. Two dedicated bombing raids carried out by US bombers damaged the plant beyond repair – at least in the late war scenario, when the Third Reich reaction capacity was weakening every day. The final act in the Norwegian heavy water saga was the sinking of the small boat – named Hydro – loaded with the reserve of heavy water from Vemork, having just started its trip to Germany on Lake Tinn.

The plant was again in business in the years after the war, and remained operative until the early 1990s, involved in production of various chemicals.

Today, it is a much visited museum. Actually, the most impressive part of the plant is that of the hydroelectric turbines. Aligned in a single immense hangar, these now silent giant machinery send glimpses of the original, fashionable early-1900 industrial style.

Some of the turbines and generator assemblies – manufactured by AEG, as witnessed by the labels – are really huge.

A suspended platform allows to capture with a bird’s eye the entire hall. Here you can see also completely analog control panels, again in a very elegant style from the era.

Visiting

The museum in Vemork can be reached in less than 3 hours driving from central Oslo. The power-plant can be approached walking from the parking (here) over a suspended bridge crossing the deep valley. The area is very scenic. The highlight of the show is the hall with the power turbines. A visit may take from a few minutes to more than 1 hour for more interested subjects.

A website with full information can be found here.

The Atlantic Wall in Denmark

A pleasant country in northern Europe, Denmark is geographically surrounded by the North and Baltic seas, and shares its only land border with Germany. In the late 1930s, this meant having a very dangerous dictatorship as the only neighbor, and no possible direct help coming by land from other allies. Without natural defenses against and attack from the south, the Kingdom of Denmark was militarily occupied basically in one day, on April 9th, 1940. This happened through a joint operation carried out by the land, air and naval forces of Nazi Germany.

A quick historical overview

The interest of Germany in controlling Danish territory was mainly strategic. It served as a springboard to attack Norway further north. The latter was in itself more interesting to the economy of the Third Reich, as it was rich of natural resources, including raw materials not available in Germany. These were so needed by the Führer, who was dreaming of making Germany independent from international supply trade.

Furthermore, controlling both Denmark and Norway meant control over the eastern coast of the North Sea, and a chance to control the only access to the Baltic Sea. The USSR was not a declared enemy before 1941, but withdrawing from the mutual cooperation pact with Stalin – signed in a hurry just days before the invasion of Poland in September 1939 – at some point, and openly attacking Russia, had been in the mind of the Führer since he first put on paper his worrying geopolitical thoughts. By controlling the Baltic, Hitler could control sea trade to non-freezing ports of the USSR, which in 1940 had already taken over Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania in agreement with Germany.

As a matter of fact, the conquer of Norway was not without significant losses for Germany. This was also the result of Britain starting to militarily oppose Germany. The two countries had been already at war since September 1939, but without any serious confrontation having taken place for months.

Since then, the British – and later also the American – threat from the west had to be faced through the fortification of the western coast of the Third Reich, which by the end of the summer of 1940 extended roughly from the Pyrenees in southern France to Kirkenes in northern Norway. This highly visionary task was taken up very seriously by the German military-economic machine, and produced the ‘Atlantikwall’ – which translates pretty obviously into the ‘Atlantic Wall’. This long defensive line had to be built all along the coast, and was mainly based on a catalog of standardized reinforced concrete constructions, to be reproduced in great numbers. Construction was coordinated by the main contractor, the German ‘Organization Todt’, which made extensive use of subcontracted local companies in the various occupied states where construction had to take place.

Despite the majority of the elements in the line were reinforced barracks for troops watching the coastline, ammo and supply storages, command and communication bunkers, canteens, and other service buildings, there were of course also a number of heavier constructions. These included coastal gun batteries, to counter attacking ships, lighter gun batteries, to stop troops attempting a beach landing, aiming stations, to adjust the line of fire of gun batteries, anti-aircraft guns to defend the line from air attacks, and some technical buildings serving as bases for advanced radar systems. The latter were among the most useful and widespread items along the line, as German technology developed fast during the war, to produce powerful detection systems against air and sea menaces.

Needless to remember, similar to many pharaonic works conceived by the Führer and his entourage, the Atlantic Wall was never completed, and it failed to spare the Third Reich from total annihilation. The once-modern military installations along the western coast of Europe soon became obsolete, as war changed face at a quick pace following WWII, with new weapons and techniques. Furthermore, the front line of the new Cold War shifted geographically to the middle of Europe. A tangible sign of enemy occupation, the massive bunkers of the Atlantic Wall met different destinies depending on the country. However, albeit only rarely preserved, thanks to their bulkiness and sturdy make, they are in most cases still visible.

About this post

Being the first land along the western coast to fall under German control, work on the Atlantic Wall started in Denmark earlier than anywhere else. Today extensive traces of the line are still pointing the shores of the North Sea.

A few focal points are preserved as first-class museums. These include the strongholds of Hirtsthals and the huge battery at Hanstholm, in Northern Jutland. The latter had been designed around a cluster of four monster coastal guns, to the aim of controlling the passage through the Skagerrak channel, providing access to the Baltic Sea. A twin battery – Vara – was built to the north of the strait in Norway.

Closer to the German border, the area of Blavand – featuring also the famous ‘Tirpitz battery’ in its arsenal – is another example of a partly preserved portion of the line. Bangsbo fort in Frederikshaven has been partly refurbished and opened as a museum, after being used by the Danish military for a while. There you can find one of the few remaining examples of an Atlantic Wall installation with its original guns still in place.

Smaller strongholds, opened as smaller scale museums or left to more adventurous explorers, often feature unique special constructions, which justify a detour at least for more committed war historians. These include the Skagen battery, the disguised bunkers in Thyboron, and the complicated Stauning battery, built on two opposite coasts of a closed firth.

All these sites – and a few more – are covered in this post, which is based on photographs taken in August 2019. Denmark is officially protecting the installations of the Atlantic Wall as historical buildings – unlike France, for instance – so visiting even abandoned sites maybe rewarding, especially if they are out of the mainstream touristic routes. Unfortunately, many bunkers now closer to crowded touristic areas have been damaged by vandals.

Sights

Map

The sites covered in this post are listed on the following map. Sites opened as museums are pinpointed in red, wild sites are marked in blue.

The sites are listed in the post following the coastline of Jutland from its southwestern end.

Navigate this post – Click on links to scroll

Blavand – Shore Battery & Military Area

Located about 50 miles north of the German border along the coast of the North Sea, the small town of Blavand sits on a promontory protruding towards the sea, and protecting the access to the port town of Esbjerg – still today a major commercial port of Denmark.

The area of Blavand saw the construction of an incredible number of Atlantic Wall elements, which grew up in more instances during the war years.

Close by the parking ahead of the lighthouse on the very tip of the promontory, you can find trailheads leading to the southern and western shores of the promontory.

The southern shore makes for a typical North Sea landscape – an endless sand beach. What makes it different from others is the number of light bunkers placed along the shoreline. Despite little imposing, this model – type ‘F’ – was purpose built for the wide shores of Denmark in 1944, in view of a potential enemy beach landing. These firing positions were armed with machine guns, and placed at pre-determined intervals – about 1’500 ft – matching their accuracy range.

Many bunkers are slowly sinking in the sand, and only small parts of them can be seen emerging from the ground.

Others have been turned into strange sculptures, adding a horse head and tail.

Under favorable tide conditions, you may enter some of the bunkers. There you can appreciate their simple structure, with a defensive embrasure by the entrance (looking towards the coast) and loopholes to the sides of the firing chamber.

On the beach close to the lighthouse you can find a very big bunker with a wide hollow cave on the inland side, which used to support a searchlight.

Along the western shore you can find more massive bunkers. These include four former coastal gun batteries. These heavier constructions have assumed strange attitudes, after sinking in the sand somewhat irregularly over the years.

Looking towards the inland from the beach, you can spot an aiming/fire control positions, with a distinctive bulbous roof and a long curved slot on the facade.

Your walk along the northern shore may be interrupted by safety warnings concerning mine threat. As a complement to the defensive potential of the Atlantic Wall, extensive minefields were set up on most of the Danish beaches. This turned into a big issue soon after WWII, when an extensive demining action had to be carried out.

Furthermore, part of the Blavand promontory is occupied by a military firing range. When training exercises are taking place, special warning lights are lit and flags are raised, to delimit the territory where you should not venture.

In the dunes slightly inland from the shoreline, it is possible to find another big number of bunkers. They are not always visible from the distance, and entrance is in most cases from one side only – the only side emerging from the sand.

A very distinctive item is the colossal platform for a ‘Mammut’ type long-range anti-aircraft radar. This used to be operated by the Luftwaffe, whereas other bunkers in Blavand – like elsewhere along the Atlantic Wall – used to be run by other branches of the Germany military.

The base for the radar is in itself a rather complex bunker, with several cavities and extensive piping, once needed for power cables feeding the antenna, as well as other wiring.

Close by, a smaller radar base bunker used to be operated by the German Navy. Also here, holes and passages for cables can be found in the walls and roof.

It is noteworthy how many bunkers feature traces of original decorations, like painted walls, fake wallpaper, frescoes and small frieze lines. This is typical to many other installations of the Atlantic Wall.

Metal hardware can be found in the form of a bulky aiming turret emerging from a bunker.

In another instance, a mortar mouth pops out from the ground.

The underground bunker underneath the latter can be explored with some difficulty – there are also quite annoying bats inside -, but it reveals an aiming wheel with original markings in a reinforced concrete dome!

An interesting sight nearby the lighthouse is the tower once supporting a ‘See Riese’ radar. The protruding arms once sustained a wooden platform for military operators.

Getting there and moving around

The area of Blavand is rather extensive and rich of diverse installations, so notwithstanding the general bad shape of most of the bunkers, visiting may easily take 3-4 hours for a committed tourist, getting inside most of the items. A good starting point is the free parking by the lighthouse, provided you come early especially in summer, cause it tends to get more and more crowded along the day.

Blavand – ‘Tirpitz’ Coastal Guns

Despite at least some of the bunkers on the shores of Blavand being in a relatively good shape, there is a part of the Atlantic Wall which is officially preserved as a museum. This is one of the two unfinished bunkers intended to support a set of massive 38 cm coastal guns.

These guns – four, two for each bunker – were originally intended to be put on board battleship Gneisenau. The latter got damaged in port, and the guns were diverted to coastal use. The decision to build the Tirpitz battery to protect the port of Esbjerg came relatively late during the war, in 1944. As a result, construction of the battery supporting structures was not completed when the war ended, and the four never installed guns were scrapped – except one, which can be admired in Hanstholm (see below).

The name ‘Tirpitz’ attributed to this battery is of uncertain origin, and sometimes this installation is also referred to as ‘Vogelnest’.

The museum has been built only in the southernmost bunker. The installation is very modern (and crowded), and it has been designed as a thematic museum in five sections. Two of the most interesting are about the Atlantic Wall and its impact on local life, and on the extensive mining and demining operations on the shores of Denmark.

Other sections are related to amber trade and local seamen activities.

Finally, you can get access to the base of the gun turret. Photographs are bad here, due to very poor lighting and limitations on camera use.

You can see a central round dome, surrounded by an external corridor. Traces of a post-war explosion can be noticed looking at the metal part of the construction.

Outside of the museum you can find a cannon cut in pieces, plus rigs used for construction. The bulky concrete arms protruding from the roof were meant to support the crane for mounting the cannons.

With a five minutes walk from this bunker, you can get to the northern battery. This is not preserved, and the entrances have been bricked up. Yet you may better appreciate the size of the bunker from this exemplar than from the one turned into a museum.

Getting there and moving around

The museum is located east of Oksby along Tane Hedevey, a local road connecting Blavand to Esbjerg. There are signs along the road, and a large parking ahead of the entrance. The museum is very modern, and may turn very crowded in summer. Website with full information here. You can visit on your own with an audio-guide. The visit to the military-related sections may take about 1 hour.

Adding a walk to the northern battery will take further 20 minutes at most, as there is no chance to step in.

Stauning Battery

Construction of this battery started in the second half of 1944, and consequently it was only partially completed before the end of the war. The geography of the Stauning battery is rather peculiar. The intended design was based on four coastal guns to be placed on the inland side of the Ringkobing firth – basically a lake with a channel-like small mouth connecting it to the sea. On the other coast of the firth, i.e. very close to the North Sea in Hvide Sande, the aiming station for the battery was finally built.

In the event, only one of the reinforced concrete gun positions reached completion, whereas the other three cannons were kept on basic, not reinforced aprons. The gun bunker is the only exemplar of this model built along the Atlantic Wall, and was designed around a 19,4 cm gun manufactured in France.

Located far from the shore in a secluded area of the countryside, this battery is in a relatively good shape, and thanks to the hard soil its position has not drifted since it was installed. You can even walk on top.

More elements are scattered in the bushes and over the private pasture nearby. Among them, a firing position presumably for anti-aircraft or light field guns, and corresponding ammo storages.

There is also a reinforced concrete barrack or command post. This can be toured inside, revealing some metal piping still in place.

Traces of gun concrete platforms – likely gun firing positions – blown up after the war can be seen, similar to many smaller cubic buildings of uncertain purpose.

A couple of unattractive half-interred ‘living bunker’ can be found too, another design present only in Denmark – the type was named ‘Falkenhorst III’. Inside, traces of original wall paintings can be easily spotted.

There is actually a fire direction post of some sort in this part of the battery too. This is a square-based concrete booth, with an adjoining living bunker.

The aiming position in Hvide Sande is rather easy to find, on top of a mound close to the city center. There are actually two concrete accesses on the eastern side of the hill. The one closer to the top gives access to the metal dome you can spot on top of the mound.

Climbing up to the dome is possible along a rusty ladder, going through a narrow vertical passage. Once there you can see the mounting of a telescope for measurements. There are side slots looking outside, and an original marked wheel to provide measurements. You can also spot small foldable wooden tables (or perhaps jump-seats).

Downstairs, there are a few panels explaining the history of the battery.

The second concrete entrance gives access to a ‘living bunker’ for the troops, with explanatory panels on the history of the place.

Getting there and moving around

The inland part of the Stauning battery with the gun station is located close to Stauningvej 55. You may park your car not far north from this address, on a wide lot close to the entrance of a local residential area. Most notably, this battery is about .5 miles from the beautiful Danish Museum of Flight (see this post). Exploring the battery may take 1-1.5 hours, as the place is totally wild and inconvenient to visit.

The Hvide Sande point is on the northern rim of the channel linking the firth to the North Sea. You can see the mound close by a major round about, where road 181 meets Troldbjergsvej. There are several parking options nearby. The place is technically not abandoned, but there was no ticket/staff, and it was totally dark when I visited. You would better take a small torch with you.

Sondervig

Just as an example of how extensive the construction of the Atlantic Wall was in Denmark, you may have a look to the beach in Sondervig, where people spending the day by the sea are accustomed to the view of the monstrous German bunkers pointing the shore.

Getting there and moving around

You may find a parking spot in Sondervig and access this famous touristic beach by foot.

Thyboron

The coastal battery at Thyboron has a unique place in the panorama of Atlantic Wall buildings. Here a sort of sample list of possible deceptive techniques were tested on otherwise normal bunkers. The usual constructions pointing the shore have a strange appearance here, thanks to the imaginative talent of a Danish architect – who turned out to be a spy working for the Allies.

At least two gun batteries bear a special roof, resembling that of a house. Also thanks to erosion, they now have even odder shapes, resembling some Star Wars spaceship.

An observation bunker bears a tiled roof. Surprisingly, an apparently original fragment of telegraph wire can be found inside.

Given the position of the bunkers – lying isolated on a deserted beach – it’s pretty difficult to suppose this kind of deception was ever effective…

There are also some more straightforward constructions around, some of them in a relatively good shape. The cusped lintels above most doors and openings are typical to elements of the Atlantic Wall in northern countries, and are made for protecting the passages against snow and icing rain.

Just inland from the ‘sample list’, you can find a large underground bunker, somewhat difficult to access – it is sinking in the sand. Conspicuous traces of original wall painting and even writings in German can be found on the walls.

The message in German is a warning message, telling to stay away of the walls in case of bombardment. This warning sign is rather ubiquitous in Danish bunkers.

Close to the the city center – and actually a part of the Coastal Center, a museum for children dedicated to the life along the western coast of Jutland – it is possible to find another bunker deceived as a wooden house! This deception technique is far more convincing than those on the shore…

Getting there and moving around

To visit the bunkers on the shore you can reach a convenient public parking at the southern end of Vesterhavsgade, southern Thyboron. Visiting these bunkers may take about 45 minutes for a committed tourist. To get to the Coastal Center you may follow the signs and park at your convenience ahead of the building. The deceived bunker can be seen from the outside of the museum, so getting the ticket is not needed if you are not interested in the rest of the installation.

Extra feature – Sea War Museum, Thyboron

Thyboron has a prominent place in WWI history, being the Danish village closest to the area of the Battle of Jutland, one of the very few naval battles of that war, and one of the top-ranking in history for the number of vessels and tonnage involved, and for the casualties – almost 9’000 seamen were killed.

The battle was fought between two major formations of the the German Kaiser on one side and the King of England on the other. Started almost by chance, as the two opposing factions appeared on the same sector unaware of each other, the fighting was so intense that cannon fire was heard along the shores of Thyboron for many hours. The battle ended with a tactical defeat on the British side, but the Kriegsmarine of the Kaiser avoided any other serious clashes with the British for the rest of the war – in this sense, this was a British strategic victory.

Today, a monument dedicated to those who perished in the Battle of Jutland occupies a wide area over a promontory in northern Thyboron, close by the Coastal Center (see above).

A nice museum dedicated to sea war has been put in place nearby. On the exterior you can find old mines, torpedoes and even parts of relics taken from the bottom of the sea.

Inside you can find many unique artifacts, including cannons, insignia, and everyday items from ships taking parts to the Battle of Jutland.

Also unique are parts of early submarines dating from WWI, recovered from the sea thanks to novel investigation and capture technologies.

The museum is at large dedicated to naval battles and ventures of WWI. A section is dedicated to the most modern sea archaeology techniques.

Outside of the museum, you may spot a few Atlantic Wall bunkers as well, likely converted into more modern military installations in a post-WWII period. They are apparently run as museums, but they were closed when I passed by.

Getting there and moving around

The Sea War Museum is located very close to the Coastal Center in central Thyboron. Dedicated free parking right ahead of the entrance. Visiting may take about 1.5-2 hours for more committed subjects, despite the small size. The museum is stacked with extremely interesting details, the exhibition is rich and well made. Really an interesting detour for anybody interested in sea war. Website here.

Agger

Agger is located north of the Thyboron Channel, and can be reached with a five minutes ferry ride from nearby Thyboron. The long, windy, wild and distressing beaches south of the village of Agger are not really welcoming, nor easy to visit. Yet here you can find some unique and imposing elements of the Atlantic Wall.

These include a firing control bunker of the Navy. A feature often found also elsewhere, you can see some of the concrete bunkers are made of joined blocks. Light can be seen coming from the thin slots between the blocks in some occasions.

Another special construction here is the support tower for a ‘Seetakt’ radar. The tall concrete tower is assembled together with a bulkier concrete base.

The assembly has slipped to the shoreline, and today it can be neared only in favorable tide conditions. Furthermore, it is sitting in a banked attitude, making it looking really derelict.

Thanks also to a rather bad weather, these elements of the Atlantic Wall looked really eerie when I visited!

Getting there and moving around

The Agger site is wild and not signaled. The area is part of a national preserve, and part of the endless beach is a stage for kites, surfing activities and other beach sports. There is an official parking at the western end of Lange Mole Vej, less than five minutes by car from the ferry terminal to Thyboron. From there you should go to the beach and walk north for about 15 minutes to get to the tower, the highlight of the show.

You may spot it from the distance. I could not get in the tower due to unfavorable tide conditions, but visiting inside may not take much time, for the expected condition is not good, with little left to see.

Hanstholm

The Hanstholm battery is one of the most developed of the entire Atlantic Wall. As pointed out in the introduction, together with the sister site ‘Vara’ in Norway – about 80 miles north – this battery was centered on four massive 38 cm cannons, installed to obstruct surface passage through the Skagerrak, and de facto controlling the access to the Baltic Sea.

An initial battery based on less powerful 17 cm coastal guns was put in place as soon as 1940. The gigantic 38 cm guns arrived only later and were tested, but never used in action. The metal parts of the firing stations, including the turrets and guns, were eventually scrapped in the early 1950s. Over the years, this huge installation, with more than 300 bunkers fell largely into private hands, and today many former storage bunkers are used as warehouses for machinery and goods by local owners.

Nonetheless, battery Nr.3 has been turned into a modern museum, after being largely refurbished to its original splendor. As such, it is a one-of-a-kind museum, with thousands of visitors per year. Two more turrets and a number of bunkers are left to explorers. While they are not actively maintained, they are still in a rather good shape, and responsible exploration is even supported with some indications.

The area of the Hanstholm is almost 4 square miles. In order not to get disoriented, a good starting point is the museum in and around turret Nr.3. There you are greeted by a pretty unique 38 cm cannon! This is actually from the Tirpitz battery (see above), but it is exactly the same item once installed in Hanstholm. The size is really remarkable, especially when compared to more modest and usual 15 cm coastal guns, on display.

The modern museum offers a quick recap of the history of the place, with memorabilia including everyday items, letters, maps and original weapons.

Once you are done with that, you can get access to the underground part, where you first meet the ammo storage rooms, on the side of a long corridor aligned along a narrow gauge railway track. This was used to connect the firing stations – i.e. the four bunkers with the guns – to larger ammo storages scattered around the are of the fort.

There are two major adjoining rooms along the corridor, each dedicated to a different part of the cartridge. The piercing part – the ‘bullet’ – and the exploding fuse were kept separated from each other. This is similar to naval guns, and typical to larger calibers. The complicated railings hanging from the roof were made to allow moving the parts of the cartridge by means of movable cranes.

In action, the bullets and fuses were loaded on a slide, and from there on trolleys which would enter the turret from below. Today, as the turret is not there any more, the trolleys are in an open air corridor, apparently without any sense. It is noteworthy that the inscriptions and frescoes are all original, albeit refurbished.

The structure of the firing station and of the Hanstholm fort can be better appreciated from the drawings and models below.

A second part of the firing station is the bunker for the complement of men needed to operate this complicated cannon. The place was permanently watched, with shifts spending the night in underground quarters. Those pertaining to firing station Nr.3 have been refurbished, and provide a vivid impression of the original appearance. There are sleeping and living quarters, as well as large, military style showers and toilets.

There is also a complete power station, with two Diesel generators, a mechanics shop, water tanks and more.

Out of the Nr.3 firing station you are encouraged to tour at least part of the site along a series of prescribed trails. Among the items you meet on this tour is one of the ammo storages. It is not dissimilar from the ammo storage part of the firing station. The ammo parts were loaded on a railway car passing through, and from there moved towards the gun turret.

There are also many smaller storage and service bunkers, some bearing interesting original inscriptions inside.

The Hanstholm fort was defended by field cannons and anti-aircraft guns. Emplacements for the latter can be spotted around in more instances.

Another suggested part of the visit is firing station Nr.4, which is not really preserved, but is not in a generally bad shape either. You can get in only if you have a torchlight. Visiting may offer something very similar to Nr.3, except everything is more derelict – but for this reason, may be more authentic.

In the living part, you can find inscriptions in German and traces of the original wall paint. With a general knowledge of the plan from the visit to Nr.3, you may easily recognize the corresponding rooms – power station, toilets, living rooms, etc.

To get to the ammo storage part, you can walk along the round corridor outside. No trolleys left here, differently from Nr.3.

Inside the ammo storage rooms, you notice that the inscriptions have been largely canceled for some reason, but the slides as well as the frescoes above them are still there.

Still part of the suggested itinerary, you can find a control station, in a rather bad shape, and more interestingly a very peculiar building, located on top of a cliff.

This was a fire direction station. Due to the high-tech nature of the Hanstholm battery, fire direction worked on what can be considered archaic computers! The building has many floors. There is provision for a permanent team of technicians, hosted in living and sleeping quarters downstairs.

The top floors used to host the computing machines, which were fed by measurements from instruments mounted in metal domes, facing on the roof of the building. The room for the computing machines is rather dark, and due to the black walls it is difficult to see anything even with a torch.

The Hanstholm site offers several ancillary bunkers open to the public. Among them, one for a generator, supplying the whole fort in case of a grid failure.

Another bunker is an ammo storage, with a big concrete arch outside, for a moving crane operating above railway cars. Narrow gauge railway tracks can be seen still today in this part.

The pivot in the middle of firing station Nr.2 has been interred after the war, but the living/sleeping quarters for the troops and the ammo storage parts can be visited, albeit they are not connected any more by a direct passage.

A visit to this firing station is very interesting, for writings are in a generally better shape than in Nr.4, even though this too has not been refurbished.

In the ammo storage part, writings are especially abundant. You can see also traces of the original telephone wiring.

The last firing station, Nr.1, is not accessible, even though not interred.

As said, there are many other bunkers an remains around, which are typically not accessible, especially the farther you go from the museum. They are now largely on private land and used for something else.

Getting there and moving around

The Hanstholm strongpoint is a must for everyone interested in the Atlantic Wall! The museum is modern, completely accessible, with a convenient parking and all usual facilities. Website here.

The refurbished part is basically only firing station Nr.3, but many other bunkers, like the fire control center, as well as firing stations Nr.2 and 4 are open for explorers, and they have not been spoiled by vandals. You need to go with a torchlight and proper clothing, but the visit may be very rewarding.

Many more bunkers around are closed to the public, as they are now private property and used for other purposes.

Due to the enormous size of the area, visiting may easily turn into a full-day or even multi-days business for an enthusiast. For the general public, a visit to the museum and one of the trails may take a 2-3 hours depending on the level of interest.

Hirtshals

Similar to Hanstholm (see above), the area of Hirtshals was soon selected by the Wehrmacht for a coastal fortification, thanks to its strategic position overlooking the mouth of the Skagerrak strait.

The first four 105 mm field guns were positioned here as soon as summer 1941. They occupied open-air concrete aprons, which still today bear trace of the original camouflage paint and deceptive net.

A peculiarity of this fort is its extensive network of trenches, which connect all the battle stations to the living quarters for the troops and the service buildings, like the canteen-bunker and the hospital-bunker.

On top of the steep cliff dropping to sea level, you can find the bunkers for the guns. These were moved from the open aprons in 1944, into purpose built reinforced concrete firing positions. A special feature here is the steep flight of stair giving access to the gun area from behind. This construction was made necessary by the particular morphology and rock type of the cliff.

You can spot significant traces of the original camo paint, and the letters ‘St’ on many walls, meaning ‘Ständig’, i.e. resistant in German. These letters were used to mark those buildings capable of sustaining shelling and bombing raids.

A bulbous roof allows to easily recognize the fire direction station.

A more rare item in Hirtshals is the base for the ‘See Riese’ radar. This is a hexagonal concrete hollow platform. The bunker underneath it would serve to host a Diesel power generator.

Back from the coastline, you may enjoy a long exploration of the trenches and of the many restored bunkers. Many bear original markings and paintings.

In some rare cases, you can also find original decorative paintings, likely made by the soldiers stationed in the bunkers.

Restored bunkers include a ‘living bunker’, but many other installations are in good conditions, like interred shelters, ammo storages, etc. Traces of cables, armored doors – some of them with glass lights – and telephone wires can be found in many bunkers.

Furthermore, in Hirtshals you have the chance to get a bird’s eye view of the fort, by climbing on top of the local lighthouse!

Getting there and moving around

The Hirtshals site is an open-air museum. There are technically opening times, but the area is not fenced, so if you are looking for a visit to the exteriors, you can walk around freely at any time. The museum has a website here, and guided visits are offered in many occasions. Many bunkers were closed when I visited, and they might be visible only with a guide. Some other bunkers are open and lighted, whereas the majority are basically left to explorers – open and not lighted – but rather accessible and very easy to visit, maybe with the help of a small torch. There is not a clear entrance (the area is not fenced), nor permanent staff on the site.

There are explanatory signs for basically all of the bunkers, in double Danish/German language.

The parking is ahead of the lighthouse, which is a different entity and operates with opening times you can find here. The parking is large and free. Climbing on top of the lighthouse is possible at a small fee – apparently only Danish Crowns cash accepted.

Together with a climb on top of the lighthouse, the visit may take from 1.5 to 3 hours, depending on your level of interest.

Skagen

The Skagen area is mostly famous for its location on the very tip of the Jutland peninsula, the natural northern end of continental Europe, and ideally as the geographical point where the North Sea and Baltic Sea join together. The long and quiet shores there and the population of seals contribute to making Skagen a prominent touristic attraction, often crowded with visitors from Denmark and abroad.

What people going there may not expect is the presence of a number of massive firing positions from the years of the German occupation! These are concentrated along the eastern coast, and include firing position for 120 mm coastal guns, overlooking the Skagerrak strait.

There are also a fire control bunker, which has drifted to the shoreline, as well as radar support bunkers.

Unfortunately, these installations have been left to the elements and – most sadly – to vandals. Except for their huge size, there is not much left to appreciate.

But there is more related to the Atlantic Wall in Skagen. A former hospital bunker has been partly refurbished and converted into a very interesting smaller museum on the local battery.

Inside, you can first appreciate the special size of the doors and corridors, made to allow moving stretchers around.

Put on display are several items related to the history of the Skagen fortress. There are uniforms from the time, photos from the years of operations, and everyday items left over by the Wehrmacht.

Some of the rooms have been reconstructed, and provide a vivid impression of the original appearance.

Among the exhibits are also some relics from a downed British aircraft.

Getting there and moving around

Visiting the Skagen battery is easier from the small parking Hvide Fyr, Fyrvej, 9990 Skagen. This parking is free. Going on the Baltic shore from the parking means a five minutes walk along a prepared path. A quick walk with a look to the abandoned battery would take about 20 minutes.

You may either walk to the tip from there, or better move your car to shorten the walk, going to the huge dedicated parking area where the road N.40 ends. This parking is not free.

You will find the Skagen Bunker-Museum in the former hospital bunker immediately to the southwestern side of the parking. Website here.

Visiting may take about 30-45 minutes, an interesting small detour from the local natural attractions.

Bangsbo

Comparatively less fortified than the North Sea coast, the eastern cost of Jutland is the place of a primary military and commercial port named Frederikshavn. This is also a starting point for travelers going to Norway from central Europe.

Here the Germans installed one of the few strongpoints on this side of the peninsula. What makes the so-called Bangsbo fort unique among the Atlantic Wall installations is the fact that three of the four original guns in the coastal battery are still in place!

The main area of Bangsbo fort, where the coastal battery is located, can be found to the south of the town, and is somewhat similar to Hirtshals (see above). Both are located on top of a cliff, with a significant area to the back dedicated to command, living and service bunkers.

Today, some of these bunkers have been completely refurbished. These include the command bunker for the local commander of the Kriegsmarine (the German Navy). This is super-interesting, with many artifacts from the time, from military gear to swastika-marked dishware, from maps to photographs of general Rommel – who superintended the construction of the Atlantic Wall – visiting the installation, and much more.

Much interesting is especially the reconstruction of the command/meeting room.

Scattered over the premises of the military area are cannons and several strange items, like a tank turret intended to be placed on top of a defensive Tobruk.

There are a refurbished hospital bunker and reconstructed living quarters.

The firing control post roughly at the center of the area is another highlight, having been completely refurbished, with plenty of Nazi insignia and original material.

To the back of the bunker are a living and command area, whereas the front part is an observation deck.

The firing positions with guns are numbered from Nr.1 to 3. They are based on 15 cm coastal guns, installed in 1944, replacing older and smaller pieces.

The guns can be walked around. The cartridge supply slides to the back of the firing chamber are still in place.

Guns Nr. 1 and 3 are similar, whereas the central gun was taken from a Danish cruiser cannibalized by the Germans in Kiel during the war. Today, it bears a greenish paint.

There used to be a fourth cannon with a field of fire of 360 degrees. Trace of a platform can be seen, as well as an anti-aircraft gun.

The fort shares a border with an active military area, so a part of the original installations cannot be visited. Others are open only for those visiting on guided tours. These include a radar-supporting station. Others can be entered, but are basically empty.

A minor part of the Bansgbo fort is located north of Frederikshavn. It is a partially preserved anti-aircraft firing station. This was made of four firing places and a central fire direction point. The latter is still visible at least from the outside.

One of the anti aircraft guns is also in place. The rest of the installation has been filled with land and made inaccessible.

Getting there and moving around

The major part of Bansgbo fort can be found south of Frederikshavn. It can be accessed from Bakkevej, which ends with the parking of the museum. Website here. The area can be walked and accessed with a ticket. There are picnic facilities and a small shop. Guided tours are offered at pre-defined times, see the website. You can get a good impression even by walking around on your own, but some bunkers can be accessed only with a guide. I did not join a guided tour, and all the pictures above are from a self-guided visit.

The site is not huge, but very interesting thanks to preservation efforts. It may easily deserve a 2 hours visit.

The anti-aircraft site is located north of Frederikshaven, and can be reached from Nordre Strandvej. You may park on the large free parking made for the local beach. This smaller installation may be visited in 10-15 minutes without a ticket.