The small island of Bornholm is today a popular destination for vacation time. Especially in the summer, the small and picturesque towns along the coast, as well as the curvy roads unwinding over the gentle slopes in the countryside, become increasingly crowded with cars, motorbikes, campers and bicycles – however, without reaching the point where a tourist who is looking for relaxation may feel uncomfortable.
The quiet and relaxed aura of this enjoyable piece of land, halfway between the German-Polish coast and that of Sweden – and nonetheless part of Denmark – hides a history pointed of battles and turmoil, lasting from the early era of the vikings until the Cold War.
Quick historical facts
Between the medieval times and the 17th century, the island was often seized by the Hanseatic League, binding together coastal towns in the Baltic and protecting trading routes. During the 17th century, Sweden became a major player in the area, and wars between Denmark and Sweden meant the island changing landlord more than once, with the locals always playing militarily in favor of a union with Denmark, to an extent made possible by their own forces, yet meeting with final success.
A largely forgotten war between Britain and Denmark, taking place in the years of total confusion brought about by Napoleon’s endeavors all over Europe, meant that Bornholm was attacked by the British fleet in more instance between 1808 and 1810, basically without any success.
World War II
The invasion of Denmark by the Third Reich and the capitulation of the Danish government, militarily unable to counter the irresistible march of Hitler’s military forces in April 1940, resulted in Bornholm being occupied by the Germans. The local Danish commander annotated the order not to resist the German take-over with disappointment, feeling that a firmer military response to the invaders was indeed possible. The island was fairly well organized and armed against an air-launched invasion.
The capitulation of Denmark without engaging in a military struggle allowed to obtain less harsh conditions from the occupants, including a limited independent military activity for the first years of WWII. However, a strong anti-German feeling fueled the growth of a resistance movement, including locally in Bornholm.
Similar to what happened to the Danish mainland (see this post), the military planners of the Third Reich included Bornholm in the coastal defense structure on the outer border of the newly acquired German territory – the so-called Atlantic Wall. In particular, construction of a fortress for four 38 cm cannons started on the south-eastern corner of the island, in Dueodde (similar to that in Hanstholm, Denmark, of Vara, Norway). The very efficient Organisation Todt had the first two emplacement largely complete by April 1941. By the attack on the Soviet Union in June 1941 however, and with the rapid expansion of the Third Reich to the east, the fortress in Dueodde was deemed of little use. In the event, construction works never reached completion.
Further significant war-related construction projects on Bornholm included observation posts and several radar stations (Würzburg and Freya types), which could profit from the location of the island on the route taken by bomber groups on their way back to Britain from raids over Berlin or the surrounding region. The proximity with respect to the facility for the development of experimental weapons at Peenemünde (see here) made of Borhnolm a natural place for the installation of measuring equipment. Furthermore, the main coastal town of Rønne – still today the largest center of the island, where most of the commercial and ferry sea traffic goes through – was largely employed as a base for the Kriegsmarine. Actually, more than 600 different German submarine units called this port during the war years, about one half of the entire German submarine fleet!
Diplomatic relations between the Third Reich and Denmark deteriorated rapidly in August 1943, when the Germans – now at a turning point of the war – launched operation Safari, trying to capture all assets of whatever military value from Denmark, thus also destroying its military capability. As a response, Denmark scuttled 32 of its own vessels, and sent a handful to Swedish or to even more distant friendly ports. In Borhnolm all Danish troops were disarmed and taken away from the island.
Somewhat paradoxically, the most tragic events of the war struck Borhnolm at the very end, when the island found itself off the coast of Poland, now taken over by the Soviet Red Army advancing from the east towards Berlin (see this post). As the fear of defeat and imprisonment grew among the ranks of Third Reich forces, following the heavy losses on the eastern front in Spring 1945, many German troops reached Bornholm to prepare for an escape further west, or north to neutral Sweden. This presence was noticed by Soviet intelligence, who intercepted communications mentioning several thousands of German military troops on the island – their actual number has been estimated at around 20’000 by May 1945. The war officially ended in Denmark on May 5th, 1945. However, at that time the chain of command and the communication system in the Third Reich had collapsed, and the local German commanders on Bornholm still retained the order to repel the Soviets with any possible means, without permission to surrender. As a result, the Soviets bombed the island twice, severely damaging Rønne and the port town of Nexø, unharmed up to that point, on May 7th and 8th, 1945.
Soviet Occupation
Following the two Soviet bombing raids, a group of six Soviet torpedo boats sailed from Kolberg, Poland (now Kolobrzeg, see this post), landed and reclaimed control of the island of Bornholm on April 9th, 1945. At that time, about 16’000 German troops and refugees were still on the island, trying to flee to the West or to Sweden by any possible means. Reportedly 700 boats of any kind were involved in this desperate evacuation operation, and about 5’000 Germans (military and civilian) had fled by sea just the day before the Soviet landing.
The anti-German resistance movement on Bornholm joined forces with the Soviets, trying to search for trapped German troops and prevent their escape to the West. The airfield in Rønne was captured on May 9th in one of these joint actions – specifically stopping a German aircraft already taxiing for take-off, after some others had already successfully got airborne! These operations went on until May 20th, and due to the very significant number of German troops still on site, they required drafting people in the Soviet-backed group of ‘freedom fighters’, which afterwards remained the only official local para-military group on the island, besides the Red Army (conversely, members of the the original voluntary resistance movement soon returned to their pre-war civilian occupation).
The Soviet presence on Bornholm constituted a potentially explosive problem. The agreement at Yalta between the US, Britain and the USSR in February 1945, months before the actual capitulation of the Third Reich, had defined that Denmark would remain independent, and specifically not within the Soviet-controlled territories in Europe. The British government, at that time still led by Churchill, was extremely worried by the Soviet capture of Bornholm, and after unofficially questioning the Soviets, the answer was even more appalling – according to Soviet diplomats, the island had to stay under Soviet control indefinitely, through the support of a military contingent of 9’000, soon to reach those already on site!
This led to the beginning of a peculiar page in the history of Bornholm, and of the diplomatic relations between the USSR and the West, which would soon get worse on a global scale, leading to the Cold War. Relations between the local Danish government and the Soviets were generally good at an official level, thanks to the skills of the local leading figure on the Danish side, von Stemann. To keep the public eye on this unsolved issue, he managed to organize an official visit of the Crown Princess of Denmark, who met the Soviet top staff on Bornholm. The day-by-day coexistence with the Soviets was less idyllic, with increasing incidents due to the misconduct of the bored Soviet troops stationed on the island, and the growing discontent among the locals. Uncertainty about Soviet plans fostered fear over a possible long-term occupation.
Finally in December 1945, Britain officially questioned the Soviet government about the case of Bornholm, and Molotov answered that the Soviet Union did not intend to have any permanent base in Denmark (as per the Yalta accords), yet the island was to be retained by the USSR as a guarantee, due to the presence of British troops on the Danish mainland.
The Danish government reacted preparing to retake full control of its own territory, correspondingly asking all foreign troops – from any nation – out of its borders. In March 1946 it was announced that the Soviet troops would leave the island of Bornholm, as Denmark prepared to install its own military forces back on it. In good order, the Soviets actually left the island, the last ship departing Rønne on April 5th, 1946.
The Cold War
Denmark joined NATO as a founding member in 1949, the result of the action of the then prime minister Hans Hedtoft, a former member of the resistance in Denmark, who had got a clear insight of the line of action followed by the Soviet Union, at that time still led by Stalin.
The support given by Denmark to NATO was not obvious for that country, since the proximity to the Eastern Bloc – especially Bornholm, geographically located close to the (by then) Soviet-controlled Polish coast – made Denmark extremely vulnerable and militarily untenable in case of a potential Soviet attack. The policy adopted by the Danish government over the decades of the Cold War in support of NATO was sincere but always carefully calibrated, to reduce the risk of Soviet intervention, which would possibly result in an extremely dangerous escalation.
Consequently, no international NATO base nor any nuclear warhead was ever permanently based in Denmark. Yet highly defended coastal strongholds were established, which can still be seen today (see this post).
Bornholm hit the headlines in the early phase of the Cold War, when the first-ever jet-propelled fighter from beyond the Iron Curtain defected to the West. This happened on March 5th, 1953, the very same day of Stalin’s death. The Polish pilot, 21 years old Franciszek Jarecki, had departed Slupsk airbase in northern Poland on a training mission, when he suddenly left his group and flew as fast and low as he could to Rønne, where he safely landed his aircraft, asking for asylum. The aircraft was a MiG-15, and that was the first time this new type of aircraft, which played havoc against propeller-driven machines in the early phase of the Korean War, could be inspected by Western powers.
The case was treated very carefully from a diplomatic standpoint by Denmark, to avoid provoking a violent reaction on the Soviet side. A technical inspection was carried out in a well-coordinated, highly secretive mission set up by the British and the US, ending with the restitution of the reassembled machine to Poland. Finally, the pilot was granted asylum in the US, where he had a remarkable military career (his flight suit from the defection mission ending up in the Smithsonian collection, at Udvar-Hazy Center, close to Dulles airport in Washington, D.C.). This topic is well covered in the excellent book ‘The secret MiGs of Bornholm‘ by Dick van der Aart (see the bookshop section).
Jarecki’s escape was not an isolated case, since in 1953 and 1956 two more Polish fighter pilots successfully landed (or crash-landed) their aircraft on Bornholm (while another made it all the way to Sweden). Then the Soviets had Polish fighter units relocated further south, where Bornholm was out of range, and took over control of the northernmost bases.
Defection to Borhnolm by air on a jet fighter was rare compared to the overall cases of people reaching Bornholm to flee either communist Poland or the GDR, similarly close to the island. For all the years of the Cold War, Bornholm constituted the goal of dozens of escape attempts, some of them successful, carried out mostly by sea.
The location well within the Soviet area of influence was exploited with the construction of a prominent intelligence base by Denmark, to the advantage of NATO forces. This was again in the Dueodde. The base was very effective and was updated to keep up with upgrades in electronic communication technology over the years until the end of the Cold War. It was later kept in service, and shut off only in 2012.
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A visit to Bornholm today will likely be for relaxation and for enjoying this nice country. However, for those with an interest for its peculiar history there are some very interesting collections and rare sites to visit. They allow to retrace in particular the rich military history of the island, without much effort and with great satisfaction for either researchers or the general public. This post covers five of them, four of which are museums. They were all visited in the summer of 2024, and all photographs were taken in that occasion.
A good place to start the exploration of the military history of Bornholm, the Defence Museum (Bornholms Forsvarsmuseum in the local idiom) is located to the south of the town center of Rønne, the busiest seaport and the capital city of the island.
The museum is hosted in two old military buildings, including the local kastellet, a massive tower with a round base, built for coastal defense.
The collection is housed in the courtyard and on the two levels of the first building. For the relatively little area it covers, this collection is extremely rich and informative, with panels covering in depth some specific events, offered in multiple languages including English.
On the ground floor, an interesting exhibition on the evolution of the artillery in Bornholm starts with a display of very old cannons – including possibly the oldest preserved exemplars of some types – and insignia dating from the wars against Sweden.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Then more modern exemplars from the 19th century, and reaching to an American type 105 from WWII, employed on Bornholm in the Cold War period, allow to follow the evolution of this type of weapon.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
For more curious visitors, little artifacts interspersed between the larger exhibits on display add much value to the collection. Training material for anti-aircraft artillery from the WWII era, including down-scaled fake aircraft targets, as well as various types of grenades and shells employed with the artillery pieces stationed on the island can be found on display between the big guns on the ground floor.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
An original German aiming device has been positioned such to be still usable – you can see outside through the optical system. Note the eagle and swastika marking on the label.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
A particularly interesting item, not easy to find in a museum, is a complete launching device for the Stinger missile. This type of ground-to-air anti-aircraft missile, albeit rather rudimentary compared to other offensive missile platforms, has turned out very effective in actual war scenarios, especially against slow-moving aircraft or helicopters. The compact launchpad, operable by a single gunner, features two launching tubes. Aiming is via a visor, and the trigger is placed on two pistol-like grips.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Many radio transmitters and receivers, including a sizable console with stacks mostly made in the US (look at the labels and tags!), are on display together with a rare computer, a Compucorp 625 Mark II, a standalone machine which was employed from the late 1970s to run a software for ballistic computations.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
On the top floor of the same building, an exhibition covering some specific military episodes from the 19th century serves as an introduction to the rich collection of memorabilia from WWII and the Cold War.
Decorations from the Third Reich, as well as insignia, uniforms and personal everyday items belonging to the Wehrmacht troops, or to some specific people in the German staff living on the island, are on display, in most cases along with explanatory panels telling their peculiar stories.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Unusual items include a table with mottoes in German, an embroidered napkin with emblems from the winning powers of WWII.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
As said in the introduction, Bornholm found itself on the trajectory of allied bombers returning from raids on today’s northeastern Germany (including Berlin). In more instances, bombers damaged by flak fire or by German fighter aircraft, hence unable to make their way home, were forced to crash-land on Bornholm. The detailed history of two of these bombers and their corresponding crews is told in a dedicated set of display cases, showing even the track followed by each of the crew members as they tried to flee Bornholm (occupied by the Germans). Some interesting memorabilia items are on display from those episodes, including personal belongings of the crew members, and cash notes in diverse currencies, with their names written on them. These notes were given specifically to crew members, to help them in case of landing in a foreign country in Europe.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
From the same era is a perfectly preserved Enigma machine. This is presented together with a detailed story, which could be retraced by war historians in Bornholm. Actually, this specific machine was made in 1937 and largely employed on the Eastern front in the actions against the Soviet Union. When German troops were fleeing the northern coast of Poland and Germany in the last days of the war (May 1945), the machine arrived to Bornholm, where it was little employed, since the chain of command of the German Army had collapsed by that time. The machine was ditched in the water by the surrendering troops, but it was soon to be found, taken to a private house, and largely forgotten afterwards. Finally, it was donated to the museum decades later.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Another unusual display is about the relics of German experimental weapons landing in Bornholm, and the espionage operations related to their find. Due to the proximity with the island of Usedom and the research center of Wehrner von Braun in Peenemünde, launches from the polygon where V-1 and V-2 were being tested could be spotted sometimes from Bornholm. Actually, early exemplars of a Fieseler Fi-103, aka V-1, first stranded on Bornholm in July and August 1943. They were first discovered by two local Danish citizens belonging to the police, who took quick sketches and pictures, and passed them to the British through the anti-German resistance links. These turned out to be the first photographs of that new weapon to reach the western Allies. The two were captured and imprisoned by the German occupants, but eventually they managed to flee to Sweden.
Some relics of the V-1 crashed on Bornholm are on display, as well as memorabilia items belonging to the two Danes who found the relic. The latter include a British decoration presented for their service.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Additionally, interesting pictures show the contrail of a V-2 photographed over Bornholm, and the picture of another V-2 crashed in Sweden!
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Further remains from the era include gauges from the cockpit of German fighter aircraft, captured by the Soviets as they were trying to takeoff from Bornholm and escape, and a ribbon from the ill-fated German passenger ship Wilhelm Gustloff. She was sank by a Soviet submarine roughly 60 miles east of Bornholm in January 1945, while enroute to mainland Germany from former possessions of the Third Reich in nowadays Poland, lost to the advancing Red Army. Losses are estimated in the range of 10’000, making this largely forgotten episode by far the worst-ever naval disaster in history.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Another rich section documents the presence of the Soviets on the island. Artifacts on display range from flags and direction signs for the stationing troops, written in Russian, to many personal items left behind by the Soviets.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Typical propaganda posters are on display as well, similar to more official and non-public items, like transcripts of communications between the local Danish and Soviet commanders from the age of the Soviet occupation of Bornholm in 1945-46.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Many evocative pictures are on display from that time as well, and similarly from the Cold War. Among them, pictures of the Polish MiGs landed on Bornholm, of the many ELINT and COMINT centers put on Bornholm during the decades of the Cold War (including the tower in Nexø, see here), and copy of the Soviet attack plan in case of war against NATO.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
A final chapter documented in this nice museum is the service of the Danish Armed Forces within the UN in Cyprus. Tasked with border surveillance between the two regions on the island, Danish forces were involved in action – with some casualties – at the time of the Turkish attack in 1970. They only left the island in the early 1990s.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
The kastellet is today mostly empty, and once inside, it is possible to appreciate the original architecture of this bastion, which saw action against the many attempts by foreign attackers to land on Bornholm.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
On the outside and in a small depot on the side of the inner courtyard, further items are on display. Propellers from the WWII aircraft crashed in the area represent both the German Luftwaffe (Do-17 bomber) and the Western Allies (B-24 and Halifax bombers).
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
A Chaffee-type small tank and two armored vehicles are on display, together with naval guns, radar antennas, land robots and artillery aiming gear.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
A peculiar sight is one of the observation turrets originally scattered on the territory of the island, for spotting aircraft or other flying stuff and promptly report it.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
On display are also sea mines, sonobuoys, radar scopes and parts of torpedoes, some of them interesting Soviet models, likely recovered from the Baltic Sea during the Cold War.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Ahead of the entrance to the museum, a memorial stone has been put more recently by an association of veterans.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Getting there and visiting
The museum is located close to Rønne downtown, from where it can be reached with a short walk (about .3 miles south from the central touristic area). The address is Arsenalvej 8 – 3700 Rønne. There is a little parking area on site. The museum is professionally run, and it has its own dedicated website here (also available in English).
Visiting is strongly recommended as a first stop for an exploration of the military history of Bornholm. For war buffs, WWII and Cold War historians, this place has much in store, and a visit may easily take 2 hours. Less is required for a more basic visit, made easy also by the compactness of the display.
Bornholm’s Museum, Rønne
Bornholm’s Museum is the main facility dedicated to the history of the island. Located in a former hospital, you can immediately notice the presence of a bombing raid shelter in the courtyard. This is an original relic from WWII.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
The museum takes all floors of a small building, and it is dedicated to the history of the island in all its aspects, and with artifacts from all ages, including Roman coins and viking accessories.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Of particular interest from the time of the vikings is a collection of golden plates. They are smaller than a human fingernail, and decorated with human figures and other subjects. Plus, they are really many! They are of special interest also due to the fact that nobody knows what they are. Archaeologists found them mostly on Bornholm, and in a much lower quantity elsewhere in Scandinavia.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Fast forward to the 20th century, the museum has on display interesting memorabilia from WWII and from the era of the Soviet occupation.
Among them are original decorations, documents and photographs, from both the German and Soviet sides.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
From the early Cold War period, a small piece from Jarecki’s MiG-15 is preserved in a display case, with a picture of President Eisenhower receiving at the White House the first pilot defecting from Eastern Europe (apparently, a young John F. Kennedy appears to stand behind them).
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Shop signs and indication signs in Russian, the original working desk of the Danish governor of the island at the time of the Soviet occupation, and everyday working tools belonging to the Soviet staff are among the displays in this museum.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
A – perhaps – non-permanent exhibition is dedicated to the Soviets on the island, including the two air bombing raids they carried out in the closing days of WWII, which caused much destruction.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
An interesting exhibition on the Cold War in Bornholm examines it from different perspectives. Among them, it is shown how preparations for a nuclear attack included the institution of a civil defense system, similar to most western Countries.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Similarly, the conspicuous wave of defections, of both military staff and civilians, from beyond the Iron Curtain to Bornholm is fully documented. Being located relatively close to the GDR and Poland, Bornholm was a natural target destination for those trying to leave the Baltic coast by sea. On display are documents of seamen asking for asylum, as well as a small dinghy employed for a successful escape attempt. A rather impressive full list of the successful and unsuccessful escape attempts towards Bornholm from the communist world is provided.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
In another part of the museum, dedicated to everyday items and business activities, it is possible to find toys and other common tools from the Cold War era, as well as beautiful models of several vessels in service at that time – as well as today.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Getting there and visiting
The museum is one of the major attractions in Rønne, the capital city of the island. It is located within the perimeter of the historical center of the town, and you will be probably visiting it if you are interested in any aspect of the history of Bornholm. The address is Sankt Mortens Gade 29 – 3700 Rønne.
For those with an interest for the military history of the 20th century, the collection of this museum makes for a nice complement to that to be found in the Defence Museum (see above).
For a complete visit, 1 to 2 hours are likely enough. Less than 1 hour is needed if you are mostly interested to the WWII and Cold War part, including the nice exhibition on the Soviet presence.
The museum has regular opening times and a fully documented website here (also available in English).
Bornholm’s Tower, Nexø
The tower is an authentic relic from the Cold War. The intelligence site in Dueodde (close to the major town of Nexø, itself close to the southeastern corner of Bornholm) was originally established in 1958, in the facilities of an old lighthouse from 1876, which is still standing besides the new tower.
The task was that of intercepting communications from Soviet channels, primarily to the aim of knowing of any potentially offensive maneuver against Denmark or NATO in advance. The geographical location of Bornholm made it ideal for installing such a plant, since this territory is significantly farther east than the Danish mainland, hence closer to the Eastern Bloc and the Soviet Union.
Soon after the take over of the lighthouse by the Danish intelligence and the installation of the first technical gear, continuous improvement started around that facility, leading to the construction of a dedicated tower, which stood until the mid 1980s, and was extensively employed for gathering useful intelligence. Among the most notable information obtained in favor of NATO forces were the reports witnessing the preparation of an attack by the Warsaw Pact forces on Czechoslovakia, at the time of Dubcek’s attempted reformation of the communist system in 1968 – an invasion which eventually took place, tragically putting an end to a new political course in that Country.
The relevance of the site in Dueodde in the panorama of NATO intelligence is further shown by the decision to substantially upgrade the technical installation, demolishing the existing infrastructure and building anew a more modern and massive tower in 1986.
The new tower was operated continuously until 2012, when the installation was finally shut down, and the facility was partly demolished and sold. It is since then privately owned, and it has now reopened for visitors.
A visit allows to explore the foundations of the tower, where cables and pipelines – including compressed air and coolant fluid – can still be seen. Compressed air was employed for keeping in shape the special ‘shells’ where the technical stuff used to be put.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
These shells were arranged hanging vertically from the concrete tower, which is the only part remaining today (the shells are gone, you can see two of the original platforms in the courtyard, close to the original cooling station). Coolant fluid was employed for the big servers which hosted and processed data. A wind monitoring cabinet – made in USA – can be found at the ground level of the tower.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
By taking the original elevator, it is possible to climb to the top, where the view ranges in all directions, and allows to see the beautiful white dunes for which this area is mostly famous.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Inside the facility, mostly empty today, it is possible to see some remnants of the server rooms. Most of the empty rooms have been employed for a display of electronic cabinets and communication gear. A reconstruction of some of original technical rooms has been attempted, and the display is completed with historical pictures of the site.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Server rooms are among the preserved original parts of the tower.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Further rooms host displays related at large to WWII and the Cold War.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
An interesting addition to the visit is an original MiG-15, presented in the colors of the Polish Air Force, and resembling those which fled from Poland to Bornholm, at the commands of brave early Cold War defectors. Photographs and copies of newspapers documenting those episodes are on display.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Interestingly, what appears to be a control surface or the part of a wing of an authentic Soviet aircraft can be seen on the side of the display, likely only provisionally.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Scattered along the walls in the exhibition are original pictures, with close-ups of intercepted aircraft from the Soviet bloc.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Getting there and visiting
The tower (Bornholmertarnet in the local idiom) is located close to the white dunes of the strand of Dueodde, on the very southeastern tip of the island, about 4 miles south of the major town of Nexø. The exact formal address is Strandmarksvejen 2 – 3730 Nexø. Large parking on site.
Visiting may take about 1 hour for the interested visitor. The tower can be climbed to the top with an elevator. Visiting the facility and exhibitions does not take much, since most rooms are basically empty.
The official website of this installation is here (multiple translations available).
Bornholm’s Technical Collection, Allinge
This incredible museum has been constituted through the merge of several private collections. In most cases they are very specialized selections of technical items. These range from tractors to airport vehicles, from pocket lighters to radios, from personal computers to naval radar scopes, and much more!
Besides well-stuffed collections, which strike for their size and range, there are also some specialties, like unusual items – typically relics or one-of-a-kind exemplars. Especially the latter include some items from the Cold War chapter of the history of Bornholm.
Actually, possibly the biggest item on display is a SAAB Draken aircraft. This excellent Swedish-made attack aircraft used to fly in the colors of the Danish Air Force (see this post). The exemplar on display comes with some of the accessories, including wing pods, the parachute for brake assistance, etc.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Close by the Draken, it is possible to find several aviation-related displays, like jet engines, optical gear, radar-receiving consoles. There is also the map of the scenic flights offered from an airport which does not exist any more, and which used to be close to the northern coast of the island (the only airport is today that in Rønne).
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
One of the jet engines looks like an evidence from an aircraft accident, involving a Learjet business jet crash-landed on Bornholm.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Not far from the Draken, another rare aircraft on display is a SAI KZIII, designed and manufactured in Denmark in 1946.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Further finds in the museum are a stop light, which was employed for stopping road traffic on local roads close to the runway, when an aircraft in need of a shallow approach path was landing in Rønne, and the doors originally in an airport building, with stickers of flight associations from all over the world.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
A military trailer with radio communication gear is on display, as well as an old truck, which happens to be the very same truck seen boarded by young Soviet soldiers, at the time of the Soviet occupation of Bornholm!
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
A little collection is made of GDR-made items.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
A small room is dedicated to marine detection gear and the corresponding scopes.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bulky elements on display include a one-of-a-kind locally assembled truck, a monster roadworks machine made in the Third Reich and which never returned to Germany, and trucks for removing snow from the road. They have two engines, one moving the truck, the other moving the spool. The arrangement is rather involved, with an articulated (angled!) shaft carrying mechanical power from the engine to the spool.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Airport gear includes a SAAB car with a runway friction tester in the back, and a truck for spreading anti-ice fluid.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Other rich hi-tech collections include one with radio receivers, another with cameras and video-recorders.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Even one centered on personal computer consoles can be found.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
The collection of tractors on display is really impressive, with machines coming from diverse nations and makers.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Other parts of the museum are basically old shops moved in, and in some cases with fully working machinery (like the blacksmith).
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
The list of collections is really huge! There is surely something for everybody on display.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Getting there and visiting
The museum can be found in the countryside, on the road 159 connecting Rønne to Allinge-Sandvig, one of the biggest settlements on the northern coast, about 1.5 miles from the latter. The exact address is Borrelyngvej 48, 3770 Allinge-Sandvig. Large parking on the premises.
The museum is very peculiar, it features rich collections and it is run by knowledgeable people who are willing to provide descriptions and information also in English. A visit may appeal to everybody including children, and not only to war historians. However, it is duly listed here especially for the war- and aviation-related collections in it. A visit to the entire museum may easily take about 2 hours, especially when talking with the locals. Much less is needed for a quick look at just some parts of it.
Even though Stalin’s USSR finally withdrew from the occupied territory of Bornholm, the conquer of the island by the Soviets in 1945-46 meant the construction of a Soviet war cemetery, similar to those to be found scattered on the territory of the former countries of the Eastern bloc.
A very unassuming and rather intimate monument was inaugurated close to the local Danish graveyard in Allinge-Sandvig. By agreement with the local government, the cemetery is still maintained today.
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
A central obelisk, with prominent emblems and writings in both Russian and Danish, is placed ahead of a large memorial stone, with the names of fallen Soviet soldiers on it.
Getting there and visiting
The cemetery can be conveniently reached uphill of the village of Allinge-Sandvig. The exact address is Pilegade 18A, 3770 Allinge-Sandvig. Parking is possible on the road in the immediate vicinity of the cemetery. The site is open-air and not fenced, therefore it can be accessed 24/7. Visiting may take 15 minutes.
German coastal gun site, Dueodde
The coastal guns in Dueodde, close to the southeastern corner of the island and the Cold War tower (see above), are not open as a museum, yet they are fairly easily accessible to the general public. They are the most sizable remains of the planned installation for four 38 cm coastal guns, part of the ambitious coastal defense program of the Third Reich known as Atlantic Wall. This particular fortress became pointless after the break-out of hostilities between Hitler’s Germany and the USSR in 1941, since the line of the front shifted significantly towards the east, far away from Bornholm. Since construction works were correspondingly halted, only the unfinished emplacements of two of the cannons remain today, respectively Nr.3 and Nr.4.
The emplacement Nr.3 is easily accessible from the road. You can see the large round base prepared for the revolving gun. The central pinion is still there (note the big diameter of the metal screws, compared with the cover of my wide lens!).
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
The circular corridor for moving the shells and taking them to the gun can be easily walked.
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
The construction to the north was planned to shelter the troops manning the station, as well as with a technical part for storing the shells and the explosive cartridges. Many rooms can be accessed – albeit a torchlight is mandatory in this area. However, they are completely empty, and there is nothing more than bare concrete.
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
The second site, Nr.4, is more secluded within a group of private homes. However, it can be accessed fairly easily by walking. It is basically a twin of the other emplacement, and the state of conservation (including, unfortunately, tons of stupid graffiti) is the same.
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Getting there and moving around
The two emplacements are geographically extremely close to the Cold War tower described above. It is possible to park at the tower, in the large parking areas closer to the white dunes strand, or along the road in proximity to these installations.
The coordinates for parking and getting a quick access are for Nr.3: 55.00058432993301, 15.080803777073971, and for Nr.4: 55.00255210231893, 15.084640862385443.
Both sites are not fenced and accessible 24/7. Visiting may take 15 minutes for each of the emplacements – the condition is unfortunately not ideal, with many graffiti likely such to spoil your pictures.
The events taking place on the geopolitical stage during the last decade of the Cold War – the 1980s – gave little indication of the imminent collapse of the Soviet-led Eastern Bloc (1989-1991). Correspondingly, looking at the amount of technology developed and deployed in the military field during the late, hi-tech stage of the Cold War, it is easy to notice that opponents on both sides of the Iron Curtain dedicated a significant (and even increasing) budget in preparation for a possible total confrontation. Reading papers and specialized books from the time, the outbreak of an open conflict, such to put a violent and abrupt end to years of opposition between the two opposing systems by recurring to nuclear warfare over the territories of Western Europe (most of them belonging to the NATO alliance, and all being substantially more militarized than today), was not deemed just likely, but more as a matter of time.
The БАРС system – The tropospheric network of the Warsaw Pact
In that era of extreme tension, it is not surprising that one of the most sophisticated and expensive assets developed and deployed jointly by all Nations in the Warsaw Pact, of course led by the USSR, came alive. History would cut its life short though, and as soon as the Warsaw Pact disintegrated, as a result of the opt-out from communist dictatorship of all Countries in Eastern Europe, this asset was decommissioned. This system was the tropospheric communication system ‘БАРС’, a Russian word reading ‘BARS’ and meaning ‘snow leopard’. The name stands as an acronym for four words in Russian, which translate into something like ‘Sheltered autonomous radio communication system’.
The idea put forward by the Soviet top-ranking military staff in the early 1980s (prior to the onset of Gorbachev administration) was that of a system capable of transmitting complex orders (not just simple signals, like for opening a bunker door or silo, but articulated messages) in a safe encrypted way, at a long distance and minimizing the chance of a complete breakdown even in case of an enemy nuclear attack. Despite being not new, the concept of a resilient and reliable system, such to allow exchanging significant amount of data without relying on cables, had been tested in earlier stages of the Cold War only for short-radius operations. Mobile transmitters/receivers, loaded on purpose-designed trucks, allowed for a reduction of the risk of a direct hit from an attacker, and for a quick redeployment in case of need. However, for the amount of data and range required for the coordination of a war scenario, involving many different Countries, and geographically encompassing an entire continent, a different system was required, capable of transmitting more massive data flows on longer distances, with a reduced risk of a sudden or complete interruption.
The БАРС system was based on a certain number of stations, scattered over the territory of the Countries of the Warsaw Pact. Each node was built as a bunkerized, manned military installation, featuring high-power, high-frequency fixed antennas emerging from the ground, and an underground shelter protecting all the technical gear required for manipulating the data to be sent or received, interfacing with the other existing local (i.e. national) networks for military and executive governmental communication, and of course managing the tremendous amount of energy required to pump a long-reaching signal into the ether.
Laying on the front line with the West, hosting a Soviet contingent of some hundred thousands troops (see here and links therein), aircraft (see here), missiles (see here) and nuclear warheads (see here), and being a key-ally of the USSR in case of the outbreak of an open war (at least until late 1989), the German Democratic Republic (or GDR, or DDR in German) was clearly included in the БАРС network from the initial drafting phase. Similarly, Poland, Czechoslovakia, Hungary and Bulgaria, and of course the Soviet Union (which included Belarus and the Baltics, and stretched west to Kaliningrad), all had БАРС stations on their territory. Stations were located at a range of a few hundred miles from one another, thus within the range required for each of them to communicate with one or more of the other nodes. Data (e.g. orders, reports or authorizations) input locally could be relayed along the network through intermediate nodes, down to the intended destination node. There were 26 nodes in total, of which four were in the USSR.
The Wollenberg site – Bunker 301 ‘Tushurka’
The GDR in particular had three stations built, all along the border with Poland, and located east of Berlin – namely Station 301 in Wollenberg, at the same latitude of Berlin, Station 302 in Langsdorf, towards the Baltic coast, and Station 303 in Röhrsdorf (near Königsbruck), not far from Dresden in the southeast of the GDR territory. The first among them, the Wollenberg site (codenamed ‘Tushurka’) could communicate with the other two national stations, as well as with Station 207 in Poland, from where data would be transmitted further down the network, towards the USSR.
The site was built by the GDR state, with technical hardware coming from several Countries within the Warsaw Pact, and most of the military hi-tech components manufactured in the USSR. The actual site (similar to its sister sites) was built in the frame of a highly secretive operation. The staff comprised about 60-70 men, the majority of which were military, where about 15% were civil technicians. Maximum security clearance was required, due to the top-secret nature of the installation and of the overall БАРС system. The bunkerized part of the installation was only a component of the larger premises of the base, camouflaged within the trees on the side of low-rising hill.
As pointed out, the immense spending required for setting up this multi-national hi-tech military communication system, which was extensively tested and completely commissioned (as a network) by 1987, did not save it from a quick demise and disappearance. In particular, Station 301 went definitively offline as early as August 1990.
However, the fate of the Wollenberg site was not so sad as that of many former Soviet or NVA (i.e. the East German Army) installations in the GDR. The high-power antennas were torn down, but except from that, little material damage was inflicted to the buildings and bunker on site. The place was basically shut-off and left dormant, until when a society of technically very competent local enthusiasts started a plan to preserve and open it to visitors, as a memorial specimen of the technology of the Cold War years.
A visit to the Wollenberg bunker site reveals a tremendous deal of interesting details, very uncommon to find elsewhere in the panorama of Cold War relics around Europe. Thanks to a careful preservation and restoration work, the bunker has most of its original systems still plugged to the grid and lit-up – some of them are reportedly still working! Even though the communication networks have been severed, the experience in the bunker is really evoking, and the atmosphere – with all the lit-up cabinets, lights, CCTV cameras, 1980-style screens, etc. – closely resembles that of the bygone era when БАРС was operative!
This report and photographs were taken during a private visit to the bunker, carried out in the Summer of 2023.
Sights
A visit to the the installation in Wollenberg starts from the original high-security access gate. As you may quickly notice when passing through it and getting a first view of the site, the state of preservation is exceptional. Except for the lack of military staff around, everything looks mostly like in the years of operation.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
A group of soft-construction service buildings and a reinforced multi-entry garage constitute the first – and visible – nucleus of the installation. All buildings are painted in a camo coat.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
A former building for the on-site staff has been turned into a permanent exhibition, with memorabilia items from the Cold War years, when the Nationale Volksarmee (or NVA, the Armed forces of the GDR) cooperated with the Soviet Red Army and the national Armed forces of other Countries in the Warsaw Pact.
A meeting room, now employed also for small gatherings, is especially rich of interesting and diverse items, including emblems, books, memorial plates and pennants, as well as TV screens, hi-fi systems and and beamers from the era.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Another room has been set-up as a control center for the base, with an original console and regional maps.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Compared to military bases (for aircraft or tanks), the Wollenberg installation is rather compact, with a main road giving access to most of the (not many) buildings on site, as well as the bunker. Actually, the bunkerized part was built under a low-rising hill, with the antennas originally standing on top of it. Access to the bunker is possible either by climbing uphill on the main road, or through a suggestive original pedestrian tunnel. The latter starts from within the service building itself, and – somewhat unexpectedly, for an underground installation – it climbsuphill, while keeping beneath the surface of the hill side slope. The lower end is guarded by an original CCTV camera.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
At the top end of the tunnel you can find the actual access to the bunker. The design and reinforcement level conferred grade ‘D’ protection according to the military standard in use at the time, with grade ‘A’ being the strongest. Access is through an airlock, constituted by two tight doors at the opposite ends of a small vestibule built in concrete. This design allowed protection from the blast of a nuclear device.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Notably, the locking mechanism of the tight doors is Soviet military standard, which can be found in high-value installations like nuclear depots elsewhere in the Eastern Bloc (see for instance here in Poland, and here in Czechoslovakia).
To the visitor with some experience of Cold War installations, it will be apparent from the very start of the tour that the state of conservation of the bunker, including the systems in it, is exceptional, similar to the rest of the Wollenberg site. The original warning lights and the CC-TV camera for identifying people at the entrance are still in place.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Next to the entrance, a control room with technical gear for checking-in can be found – including original dosimeters for radiation and chemicals, mostly Soviet-made. Looking inside these devices is possible, and reveals a great deal of sophistication in the design and realization of the military-grade material from the time.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Showers and sinks for washing, as well as canister for disposing of contaminated clothes, are located in the same area.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Upon getting access to the sealed area of the bunker and passing by the decontamination facility, you find yourself on the top floor of the underground bunker. The high-technology gear required for the transmission/reception of data on the БАРС network, as well as the interface with other national communication systems, required for receiving data, issuing orders, etc. over the territory of the GDR, were located on this floor.
Two symmetrically placed rooms host two twin transmission centers for the БАРС system. A single manned console can be found in each of them, surrounded by electronic cabinets and switches. At a closer look, all the material herein is Soviet made, and labeled in Russian only.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
On the wall ahead of the console station is a set of cables, communicating with the antenna and allowing to set the orientation and monitoring its status.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
The actual signals transmitted to the antenna, or received from it, traveled along special hollow ducts, with an almost rectangular section. Bundles of these ducts can be found in the ‘Sender’ (which means ‘transmitter’ in English) room, immediately next to the room where the manned console is.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
The modulation and demodulation of the signals going out and coming in respectively through the antenna on top of the bunker required some special pieces of electronics, which included the Soviet-designed KY-374 klystron (codenamed ‘Viola’), a component to be found in the cabinets of the ‘Sender’ room.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Following the hollow ducts, it is possible to find where they finally exit the usually manned part of the bunker, bending into receptacles and leading outside. Piping related to other systems, including air conditioning, can be seen as well crossing or running in the same narrow technical corridors.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Beside the consoles monitoring the antenna and the data flowing through it, a kind of operative room for communication can be found, where consoles allowing to receive and forward data and communication to/from all systems are on display. This largely original room features consoles of different levels of technology.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Original explanatory schemes showing the basic features of the БАРС system are on display in that area – in Russian!
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
An adjoining room features the cabinets required for making all these system work. The cabinets are really many, with a significant share of material manufactured in the USSR. The sight of all these cabinets together is really impressive, and tangibly provides the feeling of a high technology, sophisticated and expensive design. It compares well, but in a largely up-scaled fashion, to the electronics to be found in some special communication bunkers on the western side of the Iron Curtain (see here).
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Interspersed with the original arrangement of the cabinets and consoles are some displays of original material. These include specimens of different types of cables for signal transmission – some of them hollow and pressurized, others featuring impressive bundles of thinner wires – the KY-374 klystron, and other once top-secret core components of the БАРС transmission system. Also on display is one of the few remaining parts of the original system of antennas, once on top of the bunker. The antennas were the only part to be physically torn down when the system was decommissioned, upon the demise of the Warsaw Pact and the end of the Cold War.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
The bunker was manned by military and technical staff 24/7. Furthermore, as typical for bunkers from the Cold War era, provision was made at a design level to allow the staff to live isolated within the bunker for an extended period of time, in view of the eventuality to face a nuclear fallout scenario.
On the same floor as the technical rooms, the commander of the station had his own private room. This is still adorned with typical Soviet iconography, as well as everyday material from the age when the bunker was operative.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
A small canteen, with a kitchen and a modest living room, can be found at the same level. An original storage room has been employed to gather examples of everyday products, like soap, skin care cream, etc., as well as canned food, cocoa, and beverages of all sorts.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
This represents a very rich catalog of now largely defunct and forgotten labels, from the age and regions of the Eastern Bloc (and especially from within the GDR). Also on display are bottles of spirits, likely still very good!
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
The visit proceeds then to the lower floor, which can be reached through a flight of metal stairs.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
The lower floor host the plants required for the regular operation of the entire bunker, such to guarantee operational ability even in case of an enemy attack carried out with nuclear, chemical or biological warfare. The air filtering and conditioning system is very modern. Beside typical filtering drums for particles, to be found also in other bunkers (see for instance Podborsko here), you can see a bulky filtering and climate conditioning system, neatly arranged within two parallel square-shaped ducts. Filtering against chemicals as well as biologic agents was carried out employing special active filters.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Sensors for the level of contamination of the bunker air can be found in different rooms. Much material here is standard Soviet-made.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Systems for water pumping and compressed air can be found as well, including compressors, pumps and reservoirs. Looking at the always interesting factory labels in this area, it is easy to find export products of Bulgaria, Romania and other communist dictatorships of the era. Of course, much hardware is also manufactured in the GDR.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Electricity was supplied from the outside grid, yet capability for self-sustaining in case of a grid loss (for instance in case of war) was implemented as well. Three big German-made Diesel generators have been put in place, and are still in an apparently good condition.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Another example of the high technological standard reached in the late Cold War era is represented by the control room for the plants within the bunker. A manned control station, with a console and a direct view of lit-up cabinets, reporting the status of the various systems running in the bunker, compares well with control rooms of large industrial plants in operation today.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Carefully kept in its original status, with many of the electric links and cabinets still working, the sight of this room is especially evoking.
Also on the lower floor are the sleeping rooms for off-duty staff. Typically, this was not employed except for drills, when the bunker could be sealed to simulate operations in case of the outbreak of hostilities.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Back to the upper floor, it is possible to exit the bunker via a stairway and through a side gate. You will find yourself on top of the low-rise hill where the bunker has been dug. Here the concrete base of the crane where the БАРС antenna used to sit are still visible. Notably, these antennas were much smaller than the tropospheric antennas employed for the TROPOSCATTER system of NATO. This was the result of a different bandwidth employed for transmissions. Therefore, even in the days of operation, the antennas on top of the bunker were not as sizable as those of TROPOSCATTER installations (which were enormous in size).
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Looking closely, in the top area of the installation, the duct for supplying the Diesel oil tank of the bunker can be found, similar to sensors for radiation and other atmospheric parameters (similar to what can be found also in other nuclear-proof bases, for instance here). These allowed to monitor the conditions of the outside air, detect an attack and trigger or manage the sealing of the bunker in case of need, by locking all the tight doors.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
This access to the bunker is fenced by the original electrified fence, severing this area from the rest of the installation through a further layer of security.
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
Wollenberg БАРС Bunker 301 – GDR vs. USSR communication facility
All in all, a visit to the Wollenberg bunker offers an incredible insight in a fascinating and crucial field of warfare – data and communication exchange – as well as a lively and evocative display of a late Cold War hi-tech installation from the Soviet side of the Iron Curtain!
Getting there & Visiting
The German name of the Wollenberg bunker is ‘Militärhistorisches Sonderobjekt 301 Wollenberg’. It can be reached very easily with a car. It can be found in the open countryside along the regional road 158, driving about 35 miles (about 1 hour) northeast from downtown Berlin towards Poland. The exact location is between the small village of Höhenland (~4 miles) and the more sizable Bad Freienwalde (~6 miles). There is a large parking area immediately next to the road, giving direct pedestrian access to the premises of the former military installation. Despite being placed very conveniently, the site is rather elusive when passing by, since it is hidden in the trees and not directly visible from the road. The address corresponding to the place in Google Maps is Sternkrug 4, 16259 Höhenland. The inconspicuous village of Wollenberg, giving the name to the installation, is just nearby, but it is not crossed by the regional road, and it should not be employed for pointing this destination with a nav.
The Wollenberg bunker is a listed historical installation. It is perfectly maintained, privately managed, and it can be regularly accessed with guided tours. These are offered typically one day per week in the summer, or by prior arrangement. Possibly the best option for getting the most out of your visit is getting in contact with the group of very knowledgeable enthusiasts running the place. The official website is here (do not be discouraged by the ‘static’ appearance of the website, they are very active, and they shall typically answer your inquire).
My visit was planned by initiative of Dr. Reiner Helling (see also here), and we visited in a group of three, including the guide (Dr. Michael Schoeneck, a former engineer, with a profound knowledge of any technical aspects related to this installation), which happened to be a perfect option for touring also the narrowest receptacles of the bunker. Visiting in groups too big may be not advisable, since the rooms and corridors are rather narrow, and the place may turn overcrowded for interacting with the guide and for taking good pictures. I think the visit – including the technical content – may be tailored to the needs of the audience. For technical-minded subjects, historians and former military, a visit may take about 2-3 hours (the latter was my experience). In my case, the guide could understand but not speak fluent English, yet Dr. Helling could translate with ease all the explanations. Of course, if you have at least a basic knowledge of German and of the technical material you are looking at, this may simplify your visit, which is in any case highly advisable for those interested in military technology and the Cold War.
Heading to Berlin or the former GDR? Looking for traces of the Cold War open for a visit?
A Travel Guide to COLD WAR SITES in EAST GERMANY
Second Edition - 2024
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War actions in Scandinavia constitute a crucial stage in the unfolding of WWII events in Europe. The strategic position of the Scandinavian peninsula was not overlooked by strategists in the Third Reich and the USSR, and by the Western Allies. As a matter of fact, the German invasion of Denmark and Norway took place as early as the Spring of 1940, starting just weeks before the invasion of Holland, Belgium and France.
History & Remains – A Quick Summary
For Germany in WWII, the long and impervious coast of Norway constituted an ideal strong point to carry out raids over the North Sea, Norwegian Sea, the northern Atlantic and the Barents Sea, interfering with resupply convoys from Britain and the US. Especially after the start of the war against the USSR in 1941, the polar routes going to Murmansk – the only non-freezing port on the northern coast of the USSR – were within range of German warships and aircraft operating from the north of Norway. Control over Norway and Denmark meant total control on the access to the Baltic Sea, thus protecting the northern coast of Germany from direct attack by the Western Allies, allowing unimpeded action against the Soviet Union on that sea. Of the greatest importance in the northern European territory was also the abundance of raw materials – mainly metals for industrial production – so desperately needed by the Third Reich.
For the Allies, keeping Scandinavia was an objective of great relevance in the early stages of the war, since this territory could be a convenient springboard to launch attacks against the flat and easy coast of Germany. In the rapidly changing complex alliances and diplomatic relationships of the early stage of WWII (1939-40), Norway and Sweden tried to keep out of the war. Finland fought the Winter War against the USSR (itself one of the results of the Ribbentrop-Molotov pact, albeit not to the knowledge of the Finns), loosing part of its territory and strengthening its link with Germany for some years to come (see this post). The Third Reich attacked Norway by air and sea in April 1940, and help was sought especially in Britain. King Haakon VII of Norway left for exile in England, and the initial battles of WWII between the Reich and the UK were fought – mainly at sea – in proximity of Norwegian ports.
The Atlantic Wall
Possibly the most impressive military trace of WWII in Europe, the Atlantic Wall – a defense line stretching from France to northern Norway – was designed and built in Denmark and Germany, immediately following the successful push of the Third Reich into these Countries. Actually, those are the Countries where the most relevant remains of this interesting trace of war can be found today. A very ambitious project both in purpose and required resources, the Atlantic Wall never reached completion. Despite that, the geography of Norway, with a coastline featuring only limited access to the inland area, allowed to create an effective barrier against a potential enemy landing. Hundreds of gun batteries, complemented with anti-aircraft artillery and radars, constituted a powerful deterrent against any invasion. As a matter of fact, after the unique episode of the Battle of Narvik in the early stages of WWII, no Allied forces ever landed in Norway from the sea for the rest of the war.
A complete visit to all sites of the Atlantic Wall in Norway is a really immense task, due to the number of installations and their geographical remoteness. However, a few impressive highlights can be found in convenient locations, and can be easily visited by everybody. In this post some of them are presented – the colossal battery ‘Vara’, the southern fortified area of Lista, the forts of Fjell and Tellevik near Bergen, and the massive cannons of Austratt.
War Museums
But other fragments of the rich legacy of WWII in Norway can be retraced also away from the preserved installations of the Atlantic Wall. An interesting page is that of naval warfare deployed by the Navy of the Third Reich – the Kriegsmarine – to counter Allied shipping activities. Names like Tirpitz, Scharnhorst and Gneisenau are frequently found in history books as well as in movies or scale model shops, and they are just a few of the mighty vessels linked to the Scandinavian war theater. Dedicated exhibitions can be found in little but impressively rich museums on these topics. In this post, the Tirpitz Museum in Alta, the War Museum of Narvik and the exhibition in the visitor center of North Cape are covered.
Special interest sites
Heroic actions involving the Norwegian resistance organization are proudly remembered all over the Nation. A particularly interesting location being the Rjukan hydroelectric power-plant, which produced heavy water, a key-component in the research leading to the preparation of fissile material. This strategic asset was highly needed by the German nuclear program. On the other hand, its possession by the Third Reich was seen as a clear and present danger by the Allies, who tried to have the plant destroyed in several instances. The Norwegian resistance was clearly much involved in sabotage missions, due to the difficulty in targeting the place through air bombing raids. The power-plant is today a nice museum, covered in this post.
Photographs in this chapter were collected on a visit in August 2022.
Sights
The map below shows the location of the sites mentioned in this chapter. Their listing in the descriptions roughly follows a clockwise sense, starting from the southernmost point of Kristiansand (Vara battery). Red items are in disrepair, whereas blue ones are official tourist destinations.
The Vara battery was built as the core of the strongly fortified area around Kristiansand. Thanks to its position close to the southernmost tip of the Norwegian territory, this port town is still today very busy with passenger and freight traffic from nearby Denmark.
The Third Reich military started to lay sea mines as soon as it gained control of both sides of the Skagerrak strait. The coast around Kristiansand was reinforced with several coastal artillery pieces, and production of a set of special 38 cm caliber guns – called Siegfried -was started by the Krupp ironworks in Essen in 1940. The aim was that of controlling access to the Baltic sea by means of two batteries of long-range naval guns, one to the south in Denmark (Hanstholm, see here), and one to the north in Kristiansand.
The cannons should be capable of revolving by 360 degrees, and special concrete rotundas were prepared for the scope in a location called Møvik, on the southwestern end of the gulf of Kristiansand. The complex morphology of the terrain in this site led to a smaller than desirable area for the battery, where all technical buildings – including ammo storages – had to be built relatively close to one another. These massive constructions alone, built by the same ‘Organisation Todt’ responsible for the implementation of the coastal defense positions all over Europe, make for a remarkable work of engineering, carried out with the help of local builders, working relentlessly around the clock to have these emplacements ready as soon as possible.
In the event, only three of the four Siegfried cannons made their way to the battery in Kristiansand, one being apparently lost when the transport ship carrying it was sunk on the Baltic Sea. Transporting these 110 ton, around 60 ft long barrels by rail from Germany into the narrow valleys of Scandinavia was not an easy task. However, two cannons were test-fired in May 1942, and the third in November the same year.
The battery received the name ‘Vara’, after a high-ranking official killed in Guernsey in 1941.
Battery Vara went through the war without seeing an involvement in any major war action, and was mainly test-fired only. The whole installation, comprising target detection points, analog computers for target aiming, ammo storages – including more than 1.400 shells! – and many other service buildings, was inherited intact by the Norwegian Armed Forces in 1945, similar to many other installations along the coast of the Skagerrak and the North Sea. It was incorporated in the Norwegian coastal artillery between 1946 and 1954, being later placed in reserve having by then become obsolete for Cold War warfare standards. Two cannons were scrapped, whereas one – the only entirely surviving battery Nr. 2 – was luckily kept. The site survived subsequent stages of demolition works over the next decades, but in the early 1990s it was finally re-opened as a museum.
Cannon Nr. 2
Today, the centerpiece of the visit is constituted by a walk around the perfectly preserved building of cannon Nr.2. This bunkerized building is composed of a set of technical rooms, for ammo assembly and storage, as well as for services like Diesel power generators, and an adjoining rotunda, where the big cannon revolved around a pinion, and could be pointed to its target, following instructions from the battery control center. The latter elaborated target data from detection, identification, measuring and range-finding positions scattered around the battery perimeter.
Access to the back of the concrete building is via the original hatch, closed by iron doors. You can see the narrow-gauge railway track leading in. This linked the cannon buildings with the ammo storages around, and allowed to supply the cannon with ammo parts (the explosive cartridge and the shell are not assembled in a single unity for larger cannons, unlike for lighter weapons). The hatch drives you into a long corridor, the backbone of the bunkerized quarters behind the cannon rotunda. Here some shells have been put on the original railway trolley for display.
The cannon building hosted a permanent watch of a few men, which manned it permanently in shifts. A living room with some berths is the only one offering some comfort in the building.
A number of rooms in the bunker are dedicated to the power generator plant. A primary and a back-up generator share the same room. Of special interest are the labels on all machines and mechanisms, proudly made in Germany – in some cases, by brands still existing today.
Electric power was required for the motion of the cannon, besides for smaller appliances like lights and radios. The cannons could make use of the regional grid, but since an unstable supply might have damaged the cannon motors, aiming operations were often carried out on the controlled internal power grid, fed by the generators, and producing an optimal output.
Beside the generator room, the air conditioning plant (not for comfort, but to slightly pressurize the bunker in order to repel and pump-out poisonous or exhaust gas), the Diesel tank and the water tank for cooling the generator can be seen in adjoining rooms.
To the far end of the corridor, a radio room was used to maintain a link with the battery command post, located more than 1 mile away from Vara battery. Actually, by design the electric signals to orient the cannon could be given by the control post, and the radio communication system was there for backup.
On the other side of the corridor with respect to the generator rooms – i.e. towards the cannon rotunda – are four adjoining rooms, used to store the components of the explosive cartridges and shells. The shells and cartridges prepared for firing were moved via a crane to a tray, and from there sent side-wards to the rotunda, where they were loaded on a trolley. The cranes, trays and slots linking these rooms to the rotunda can be found around the area of the bunker closer to the rotunda.
The cranes moved along tracks hanging from the ceiling. These tracks had some switch points, allowing to allow the crane to move across different rooms in the bunker.
Inside these rooms, today you can find much original material of special interest. Specimens of high-explosive (yellow) and armor-piercing (blue) shells are displayed. The weight of the shells was around 800 kg, where the cartridge could feature different weights, roughly from 100 to 200 kg.
The top range of these cannons and shells was around 43 km. Smaller 500 kg shells could alternatively be fired by Siegfried cannons, with a longer range of 55 km. Furthermore, the cannon could be test-fired during drills with smaller caliber shots, by reducing the bore of the cannon. This was a very useful feature, since the estimated loss of barrel metal due to attrition was a staggering 0.25 kg per shot, implying a life of the barrel of only around 250-300 shots, firing with sufficient accuracy. Shooting smaller shells allowed to spare barrel wear and extend the time between overhauls of the cannon.
The sealed canisters for the explosive cartridges, with original markings in German, can still be seen piled in a room!
More material on display includes a rare example of fire direction computer. Actually, that on display is smaller than the one originally used for the long-range cannons of Vara battery, but it provides a good idea of the level of sophistication of this mechanism. Data like target distance, velocity, orientation, wind speed and direction, etc. were set as input to this analog computer, producing fire direction variables to point the cannon. An incredible masterpiece of engineering and craftsmanship, this type of computer is difficult to find in museums, and allows to appreciate the level of development of warfare back in the 1940s.
Data including range of the target was found with the help of special instrumentation. A stereoscopic range-finder was installed in the battery command post, with an arm of 12 m, which allowed good accuracy for very distant targets – required for the long range of the cannons of Vara battery. Smaller instruments with the same principle are displayed in one of the rooms.
Among the special features of this bunkerized building are the restored, original writings from German times, as well as a one-of-a-kind painting made by a Soviet prisoner of war.
From the bunkerized room, you can get access to the rotunda. Cartridges put on trolleys moved along a circular railway track all around the rotunda. This way, cartridges could be taken to the cannon whatever the direction it was pointing. Once to the base of the cannon turret, the explosive charge and the shell were lifted separately by means of two special elevators, up to the level of the gun shutter.
An impressive feature of the rotunda is the ring cover for the circular railway. In order to protect the railway passage from above, while allowing the cannon to rotate, a roof made of thick metal scales was implemented. When revolving around the pinion, the cannon turret would automatically lift the scales on its passage. The sound of the scales being lifted and released while the cannon body was revolving must have been really an experience!
Here the back of the barrel dominates the relatively large firing chamber. The shutter has been left open, so you can see the sunlight through the barrel.
The shell and explosive charge were received from the two elevators on a special tray, and here they were finally aligned one before the other. Somewhat in contrast to the top-notch technology level of the installation, the cartridge had to be pushed from the back into the barrel by hand. A long wooden stick was used for the task. Actually, it was so long that it protruded from the back of the cannon turret, thus requiring a small hatch to be pierced in the metal armor correspondingly. On one side of the barrel, instrumentation for measuring the pointing direction is still in place.
The position of cannon Nr.1 was prepared unusually close to that of Nr.2. As said, this was due to the limited available area on the uneven coast section where the battery was put in place. However, Nr.1 never received a cannon. Conversely, it was modified later in the war, when experimenting with cannon protection from air-dropped high-yield bombs. The rotunda was capped with a very thick concrete roof, sustained by sidewalls which limited the side-wards rotation of the cannon to 120 degrees.
The rotunda can be walked freely. The central pinion is still in place. Inside, the ceiling is covered in original metal panels. The round corridor for the trolleys can still be seen, but there is no access left to the bunkerized part.
Following the railway around the site is a great way to find what remains today of the original installation. There are two bulky ammo storages. These were reportedly more thickly armored than usual, in view of a higher risk of getting hit, due to the unusual proximity with the cannons – designated targets for the enemy.
Furthermore, other smaller buildings are scattered around, which may have served as storage for lighter weapons.
The positions of cannons Nr. 3 and Nr. 4 have been largely demolished, and access is permanently shut to the bunkerized part. However, you can easily climb to the top level, to get a nice view of the rotunda.
Vara is in the top-five list of the most famous surviving installations of the Atlantic Wall in Europe, and a visit to this destination is in itself a good reason for a detour to Norway for war historians and like-minded people. Due to its proximity to the port of Kristiansand, just minutes apart by car, and the relatively easy-to-reach location in the most populated part of Norway, it is also a top destination for any tourist in the area. As a matter of fact, the place is run as a top-level museum, with great reception capability, and is visited by thousands of visitors per year.
Visiting can be performed on a self-guided basis, with an explanation leaflet which allows to get much from your visit, especially if you are not new to installations of the Atlantic Wall (which are mostly standardized, despite Vara having really oversized guns!). A tour of the main features – cannon Nr.2 and the building of Nr.1 – may take 1 hour at least, for an averagely interested person. For an in-depth visit and a quick tour of the premises including other remains, more than 2 hours are needed. Thanks to the exceptional level of conservation and the explanation of whatever is on display, the visit is not boring and may be very rewarding even for younger people.
Large parking on site, picnic tables and warm reception are available – as usual in Norway! Website with full information here.
Nordberg & Marka Batteries – Farsund
Located in the southwestern corner of the Norwegian territory, about 100 miles south of the port of Stavanger, the municipality of Farsund encompasses a number of small coastal villages, around the landmark represented by the lighthouse of Lista.
Two batteries were set up by the German occupation forces as part of the Atlantic wall, both fully operative by 1942. The northern one is called Nordberg fort, where the southern one, very close to the shore line, is known as Marka fort. Between the two, the Germans installed a full-scale airbase, with a runway of roughly 1.5 km, complemented by hangars and shelters largely standing today. Following the end of WWII and the withdrawal of the German military, all these installations were converted for military use by the Norwegian armed forces, which also developed the original airfield into a more modern airbase by stretching the runway.
Today, Nordberg fort is a museum. The German Navy was in charge of the station, which had as centerpieces three 150 mm cannons, with a range of around 23 km. The cannons have been scrapped (with the exception of a lighter piece of Russian make). However, the firing positions are still there, linked by a semi-interred trench.
You can see also the original control point for the battery, developed by the Norwegians more recently, and the concrete base for a radar antenna originally on site.
Several original buildings for services – canteen, hospital,… – are still there, making for a an interesting opportunity to see how this installation looked like back in the 1940s.
The Marka fort was assembled around six 150 mm guns, located very close to the sea, grouped in two batteries of three firing positions each. A huge bunkerized command post was built in the premises of the fort. Today, after the Norwegian military left at the end of the Cold War, the Marka battery is basically a ghost site, despite being still in a relatively good shape.
The control bunker is especially interesting, since you can access the top level and watch the sea from the very same room and windows originally used by the German Navy troops! The general arrangement of the bunker is similar to other command posts you can find on the Atlantic Wall – especially in Denmark (see here).
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
The positions for the coastal guns can be reached close to the control bunker. They are uncovered round areas, slightly below the level of the ground, framed by a circular reinforced sidewall.
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
More Atlantic Wall remains, like bunkers, foundations for radar stations, or emplacements for lighter guns, can be be found scattered in the area of Farsund – which kept its military site status well after the Germans had left.
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The museum of Nordberg keeps some of the buildings on the respective site open. However, the majority of the site is open 24 hours, and can be walked freely. A visit may take about 1 hour. A convenient parking can be found right ahead of the modern and welcoming visitor center, from where you can effortlessly reach most of the points of interest in this installation. Website with full information here.
The site of Marka – not part of any museum – can be approached at any time with some walking in the rural area along the coast line. A good starting point for an exploration is here, where you can leave your car and move along an easy trail to the command bunker and the gun rotundas about 0.5 miles west.
Fjell Fortress – Bergen
Bergen was a strategic base of the German Navy, which received a fortified submarine deck among the largest, most active and longest lasting in the history of WWII. The complex morphology of the territory around this port town allowed to effectively protect the access by means of a network of nine firing emplacements. One of them – Fjell – was of exceptional power and range.
It was built between 1942-43 diverting one of the batteries of battleship Gneisenau, which had been damaged beyond repair by an air raid while in port at Kiel (Germany). The battery was composed of three 28 cm guns in a single turret. The latter was very compact in design, a real masterpiece of naval engineering, but nonetheless it featured a rather tall substructure, with all that was needed to operate the guns – protruding from the relatively sleek top of the turret, surfacing on the ground.
Placing this special battery in Fjell required carving the rocky coast, creating a cylindrical underground pit, inside coated with concrete, to host the turret. The turret, an assembly of around 1.000 tonnes with the guns on top, was then transported up to this elevated site, and lowered into the pit. The battery was test fired in the mid of 1943. It acted as an effective deterrent, and reportedly never used in combat.
The battery was incorporated in the Norwegian coastal defense after WWII, and sadly scrapped in 1968, since by then obsolete, but not yet considered an historical landmark.
Clearly, the battery was in the middle of an off-limits military area in wartime, where bunkers for several services and for the the troops, at least two radar antennas and many emplacements for lighter defensive weapons were installed to protect the battery from ground and air attacks.
Today, the bunker-pit where the turret used to rest is the centerpiece of a visit to the site. Starting from the visitor center on top, where the guns used to be, you can descend to the base of the cylindrical pit – roughly 30 ft in diameter and 75 in depth! Here you can see the rooms originally employed for storing the explosive cartridges and the shells for the cannons. These were supplied on trolleys and slides, and sent inside the metal turret, to be lifted up to the level of the cannons for firing.
Most of the original German mechanical and electrical systems is still there to see, including wiring, phones, cranes, trolleys, and examples of shells and cartridges.
Back then, you got access to these storage areas from an entrance on the same level (i.e. not from the top of the turret, but from the base). You can see this entrance, as well as the curved corridor leading from the gate to the ammo storage area. Here, examples of sea mines and other war material can be found. The corridor has narrow-gauge railway track, which was used for resupplying the ammo storage from outside.
The corridor is curved, and firing positions are strategically placed to cover it, in order to counter enemy intrusion.
The bunker gives access to the living quarters for the troops. These are well preserved, and feature brick walls to help insulating the inside from the wet rock of the walls and ceilings.
Services, like toilets, sauna, washing machines and more, are original from the German tenancy. Especially the water basins appear very stylish, a good example of German design from the era.
Besides the main turret bunker, as said the Fjell site offers other constructions on a vast area, which can be checked out from the outside – also since the premises are at least formally military grounds still today.
The road reaching the site from the parking, gently climbing uphill, is reportedly the original main access to the Third Reich site. An interesting tank-stopping device can be seen to the lower end of the road – heavy stones on top of light pillars on the sides of the road. The pillars could be blown, and the stones would fall cutting the road, in case of a potential intrusion.
The fort of Fjell, about 15 miles west of central Bergen, is professionally run as a museum. Parking is only possible to the base of the cliff where the turret used to stand. From there, a 0.8 miles road climbs to the entrance. The scenic location and the nice rural area around make for an enjoyable walk. Visiting inside is only possibly on guided tours, offered also in English (an possibly other languages). A small restaurant can be found on top, where an observation deck has been built in place of the battery.
The location of the parking is here. A visit may take around 45 minutes, excluding the time needed to climb uphill and descend to the parking. Website with full information here.
Tellevik Fort – Bergen
The coastal fort of Tellevik, on the eastern head of the Norhordland Bridge, 15 miles north of Bergen, was part of the lighter defense artillery put in place by the German military to defend any access by water to Bergen. The battery was built by order of the Third Reich, profiting from the forced labor of Soviet prisoners of war.
Lighter howitzers were enough to cover the narrow water passages in proximity of the town. The elevation of the emplacement is low, slightly above the water surface.
The battery of Tellevik was centered on two such howitzers, placed on open-top positions. The two guns can be seen still today, on round concrete firing positions. The giant bridge today largely obstructing the field of sight was not there at the time of the German occupation.
A monument to Norwegian seamen victims to sea mines laid by the German to protect the access to Bergen is concurrently located on the site of the Tellevik battery.
Tellevik is an open air memorial, which can be walked freely 24/7. It can be reached by inputting these coordinates to a GPS navigation app.
A visit may take about 15 minutes, a nice detour from exceptionally crowded downtown Bergen.
Austrått Fortress – Austrått
Similar to Bergen, the major port of Trondheim was a strategic base for the German Navy. Protected by a long firth, the port was an ideal base for submarines and warships, to intercept convoys in the North Sea, Norwegian Sea, the Atlantic Ocean and the Barents Sea. Correspondingly, a number of coastal forts was prepared by the German occupation forces to counter any unauthorized access to the waterways leading to Trondheim.
The most powerful and impressive of these batteries is the Austratt Fort. Similar to the fortress of Fjell near Bergen (see above), Austratt received one of the turrets of the ill-fated battleship Gneisenau, damaged while moored in Kiel, in February 1942. A control and aiming position was put in place a few miles apart along the coast, whereas the battery was surrounded by an off-limits area, stuffed with bunkers for the troops, ammo storage bunkers, and lighter guns for protection against an attack by land.
A major difference between the two ‘sister sites’ of Fjell and Austratt is that in the latter the cannons are still there!
Following the installation of the turret, test fired in September 1943, the fort saw little action, acting as a deterrent, and effectively preventing any serious intrusion by the Allies towards Trondheim from the sea. After the demise of the Third Reich, the fort was taken over by the Norwegian coastal defense, stricken off in 1968, and restored as a museum in the early 1990s.
The cannons are on top of a hill. From the outside, the massive three-barreled turret is really impressive in size!
The barrels can be seen besides the original range-finder – with its impressive arm, granting good measuring accuracy even at a large distance from the target. This item, with its bell-shaped cover, was originally part of the control point, located southwest of the battery, in a location currently very close to an active base of the Norwegian Air Force (Orland).
Despite access to the the firing chamber being possible through a hatch to the back of the turret, the tour follows the way a shell would travel from storage to firing. Hence you start your tour from an entrance to the side of the hill, at the same level of the bottom of the cylindrical tower supporting the guns. This metal tower was taken from the Gneisenau together with the cannons, and put in a pit carved in the rock for the purpose in Austratt.
Access through the side of the hill is protected by a smaller gun. Once inside, you find yourself in a curvy corridor, with a narrow-gauge railway track for the trolleys needed to carry the shells and cartridges inside. A firing position behind an embrassure points against the entrance, for further protection of the site against an intrusion.
The bunker in Austratt – but the same happened to many installations of the Atlantic Wall in Norway – was plagued with severe humidity problems. Immediately besides the entrance, a room with a water basin is fed by natural water dripping from the ceiling and from the rocky walls around.
Original machines for tooling, put in place for maintenance purposes back in the Third Reich years, are still there and working. Similarly, a primary and a backup Diesel generators supplying the fort are still in place, with all ancillary plants, like big Diesel and water tanks for cooling. This is original machinery too, as witnessed by the tags of the mechanical components, all made in Germany.
Living quarters were at the bottom level too. Trying to supply some comfort, the rocky walls were covered with bricks and wood, especially against humidity. These rooms have been partly refurbished with a good resemblance to the original ones. They include the kitchen and some of the sleeping quarters for the troops. However, since humidity was really extreme, troops spent limited time here especially for sleeping, and provisional barracks were built outside of the installation instead.
Hygienic services were reportedly extremely advanced compared to Norwegian standards of the time. Fully working toilets, lavatories and showers were taken as a blueprint by the Norwegian Army after the war. The electric water heater put in place in the Austratt battery was apparently among the first installed in the whole Country – it can still be seen.
Explosive cartridges, fuses and shells arriving from the bunker entry you have walked through at the beginning of your tour would be eventually lifted upstairs. Shells, either high-yield explosive or armor-piercing, would be stored in a chamber featuring cranes hanging from the ceiling, used to put the shells on trolleys. These trolleys transported the shells to the lower level of the turret. The chamber where the shells were stored is physically separated by the turret by means of a concrete wall.
Tight compartments are often found in war bunkers of the Atlantic Wall, and this can be explained by the fact that the deadliest effect of an enemy shot (either a cannon shell from a warship, or an air-dropped bomb) would be that of an overpressure wave (shockwave), capable of killing many in just moments. Overpressure effects can be effectively reduced by putting physical obstacles on the way the shockwave would travel – walls, tight doors, etc. – or by forcing it into smaller passages, like hatches or smaller doors and windows. Therefore, bunkers like Austratt are built in rather small rooms, connected only through narrow hatches and doors.
Again in the storage chamber for the shells, extensive writing in German can be found on many of the mechanisms and electric plants. Everything is original and exceptionally well conserved, just like the Germans had just left!
The lowest level of the turret, where the shells would arrive from the storage chamber to be loaded on elevators going to the upper levels, is a masterpiece of engineering. The technical problem here was that of connecting the slides from the storage chamber, which are anchored to the ground, to the receiving slides on the turret, which could pivot around 360 degrees. The designer of the turret solved the issue by placing an intermediate ring, revolving independently, and capable of connecting the fixed slides from the storage chamber to the revolving platform on the turret. The extremely compact size of the overall design, originally prepared for fitting into a warship, and the elegance and precision of the mechanism resemble those of a pocket watch from the 1920s more than a cannon!
On the turret, you can see three elevators for the three barrels, which were therefore fed independently.
Going upstairs, you meet the storage room for the explosive cartridges. These used to be stored in sealed canisters on display, original from the time. This storage room is placed to the side of the corresponding level in the turret, in a similar fashion to the shells storage below.
Climbing up one more level inside the turret, you reach a platform with the motors for moving the battery around its vertical axis, and for lifting or lowering the three monster barrels. The motion involved high-pressure mechanisms, rather complex and requiring many valves and extensive piping.
To the back of each of the barrels, you can see a large empty volume for recoil. The battery rested on a ball bearing – one of the pretty sizable metal balls is on display.
Finally, the firing chamber can be found on the top level in the turret. Here the shells and cartridges were received, aligned and loaded from the back into the barrels by a pushing mechanical arm. Three independent mechanisms were put in place for the scope in the firing chamber.
You can exit the turret from the hatch to the back of the turret, concluding your tour. In the video below you can see a portrait of the battery from the air, made with a drone.
All in all, similar to the Vara battery (see above), Austratt is in an exceptional state of conservation in the Norwegian and European panorama of artillery engineering from WWII, and a visit may be super-interesting for any public.
Visiting
Despite being relatively close to Trondheim on a map, as usual in Norway, Austratt is a more than two hours drive from the town, and reaching requires taking at least one ferry. However, as noted, this location is a pinnacle in the Atlantic Wall, and surely deserves a visit for technicians and non-technical public as well, and of course for the kids.
Access to the exterior is possible at any time, but visiting inside is only possible on guided tours. The guide is very knowledgeable and makes the visit interesting also for a technically-minded public. The visit inside may take around 1 hour, more if you make questions and show some interest. Convenient parking by the gate of the fort, easy access to the area around the battery. Moving inside can be requiring for non-fit people.
As pointed out in the introduction to this chapter, Norway is rich of memorials from WWII. Even close to some of the attractions in this wonderful Country which are must-see stops for other reasons, features recalling memories from war actions are offered to a curious eye.
Two notable examples are the visitor center of the Arctic Circle along the E6, as well as that of North Cape.
Scandinavia has been a bloody and extremely active theater of war all along WWII, and Norway was directly involved in significant war actions since the first year of the conflict. As a matter of fact, most of the impressive line of fortifications constituting the Atlantic Wall was erected by deploying forced laborers, typically prisoners of war from the Eastern Front, primarily including Russians, other people from the USSR, and Balkan prisoners.
Soviet troops attacked the northernmost German-occupied region from the North, together with the Finns, after the latter negotiated a separate peace with the USSR in late 1944. The retreating Germans opposed a fierce resistance, and it was in this latest stage of the war that most physical damage to towns and installations was caused in Norway, since German troops were ordered to burn up all positions they had to leave.
These facts explain the many Soviet monuments and war cemeteries scattered especially in the northern part of Norway still today – commemorating Soviet soldiers fallen either in war actions or as prisoners of war in the harsh conditions of northern Norway.
One such monument, albeit overlooked, is prominently placed besides the visitor center of the Arctic Circle.
Soviet Memorial – Arctic Circle Visitor Center – WWII – Norway
Soviet Memorial – Arctic Circle Visitor Center – WWII – Norway
Soviet Memorial – Arctic Circle Visitor Center – WWII – Norway
The interest of Germany for Norway was primarily for its strategic position, which became an asset of special value after the start of the war against the USSR in mid-1941. The convoys feeding vital material to the USSR from Britain and the US had to go to Murmansk (see here) and the Kola Peninsula, i.e. over the Barents Sea. This was conveniently controlled by the German occupants, operating from the Norwegian coast.
In the visitor center of North Cape some panels are dedicated to this topic, showing an impression of the structure and routes followed by Allied convoys going to the USSR.
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Detailed panels with maps and pictures recall the last battle of the German battleship Scharnhorst, which was confronted by the group of the British battleship HMS Duke of York, in an epic battle relatively close to North Cape. The massive German battleship, deployed to Norway with Tirpitz (a sister ship of the famous Bismarck) to block the resupply traffic to the USSR, was hit several times and finally sunk in the freezing last days of 1943. The battle was posthumously named ‘Battle of North Cape’. A detailed scaled model of the German battleship is similarly on display in the visitor center.
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The visitor center of the Arctic Circle on the road E6, with a small Soviet monument, can be found here. The monument is open 24/7.
The visitor center of North Cape is… at North Cape! The inside can be accessed during opening times, and the tables with information on WWII convoys and battles are on an underground mezzanine. Website with full information here.
War Museum – Narvik
The port town of Narvik was founded in the 19th century as a commercial base for exporting iron ore from Sweden. A small town by the sea, surrounded by steep-climbing mountains, and in a remote location well north of the Arctic Circle, Narvik was turned for about two months into a though theater of war for the Germans, following their occupation of Norway.
It was here that the British started a battle to stop the German push to the north, as soon as the 10th of April 1940, basically at the same time as the Germans had reached the town during their conquering campaign.
What resulted was a complex, multi-stage operation, lasting until early June 1940.
At first, the British fleet mounted a naval attack, carried out with a flotilla of five destroyers. This force clashed with the local German complement of ten destroyers. The British operation met with mixed success, and was finally repelled by the German navy operating in the narrow waters around Narvik, at the price of two destroyers on each side – plus several cargo ships destroyed in the battle. Three days later, on the 13th of April, a new force, composed of the British battleship HMS Warspite and 9 destroyers, launched another assault, resulting in the complete loss of the German destroyers fleet in the region – German warships were either sunk or scuttled.
The Germans however kept control of the town. A mixed force of British, Polish and French troops, together with the Norwegians, started an operation to conquer the town by land. The operation was successful, and the German troops had to retreat along the coast, away from Narvik. However, the start of the Battle of France – the invasion of France by the Third Reich – on the 10th of May, 1940, resulted in a rapid loss of priority of Narvik as a strategic target for the Allies. It was decided in Britain to withdraw from Norway, and to evacuate all previously landed military forces from Narvik. The town fell under German control on June 8th, basically concluding the conquer of Norway by the Third Reich.
The Allied landings around Narvik in 1940 where the first on the European continent in WWII, carried out without the participation of the US, more than three years before operations in southern Italy or Normandy.
The town of Narvik is still today an active commercial port of primary relevance in the region. The heritage of war actions is preserved in a purpose-installed museum, modernly designed and easy to visit.
On a first floor, the naval operations around Narvik are described by means of technological 3D board with virtual projections – very nice and lively. Around the board, memorabilia from the British and German warships taking part to the operations back in the Spring of 1940 have been put on display.
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
They include an original Nazi eagle from one of the ships. Since the campaign around Narvik included also air and land operations, war traces including parts of aircraft, guns, mortars, machine guns, first-aid kits and many uniforms are also on display.
Uniforms are from the many corps which took part to those actions – they are British, German, Polish and even French.
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
On a second floor, you are offered displays of artifacts retracing other aspects of WWII in Norway. These include land mines – put in place by the Germans along the coast, similar to Denmark, to impede Allied landings – an Enigma coding machine, Third Reich memorabilia, a section of the Tirpitz armored hull, radio machinery supplied to the resistance, as well as personal items belonging to former prisoners of war.
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
Finally, on the last floor heavier weapons are put on display, including torpedoes, light armored vehicles and more, even for post-WWII times.
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The battle of Narvik is one of the best known from WWII in Norway, and the little museum in the town center duly retraces its timeline, through an elegant exhibition, sufficiently rich to satisfy even the most exigent experts, but not so extensive to be boring for the general public. A really well designed museum, surely worth a visit, which may last from 30 minutes to 1 hour depending on your level of interest.
The location is right besides the town hall, and can be found here. Parking opportunities on the street nearby. Website with information here.
Tirpitz Museum – Alta
The German battleship Tirpitz was laid down as the only sister ship to the well-known Bismark. Eventually, she underwent developments which made her the heaviest battleship built in Europe. Her actions were concentrated along a limited time frame, between January 1942 and November 1944, when she was finally sunk by British Lancaster bombers, making use of Tallboy high-yield bombs.
She spent her operative life along the coasts of Norway, where she constituted an effective deterrent against a sea-launched Allied invasion, and was employed tactically against resupply convoys going to the USSR.
Tirpitz was a strategic target for the Allies, which tried to get rid of her by no less than seven war operations, meeting with limited success until the last one.
With an armor more than 30 cm thick, Tirpitz was marginally maneuverable especially at lower speed, but the hull was very difficult to penetrate, and the four turrets and eight 38 cm barrels, plus twelve side-shooting 15 cm barrels, complemented by many more defensive weapons, made it a dangerous asset against land and sea targets.
The ship capsized and sunk in shallow water in the bay of Tromso, and following the end of the war, she was largely dismantled. Original pieces of the ship could be collected, as well as some personal belongings from the crew. Some more were taken out from the water over the years.
The museum in Alta is dedicated to the memory of the ship, and offers an extremely rich collection of items connected with Tirpitz. Furthermore, by means of memorabilia items, it retraces the history of the war years in the northernmost region of Norway – Finnmark. The reason for installing the Tirpitz Museum in Kåfjord, near Alta, is bound to the fact that the battleship was based here for a period, as witnessed by some historical pictures. The museum has a rich guestbook, which includes top-ranking military staff from several Countries.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
The small museum is home to some of the finest and largest scales models portraying Tirpitz. The level of detail and the accuracy of the reconstruction is really stunning.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Some smaller diorama models portray scenes from the life onboard, or details of special interest. An unusual one portrays the capsized hull of the ship, following the sinking!
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Besides the scale models, original instrumentation, shells, wooden slabs from the deck, and more parts of the ship are put on display.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
A room is dedicated to the operations carried out against the battleship. The ship was reportedly attacked several times without substantial damage. One of the attacks was carried out by the British, recurring to mini-submarines. Among the artifacts on display are the decorations to the men involved in these operations.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Extremely interesting artifacts in the museum include material from the crew, taken away after the sinking over the years – sometimes found in the area as recently as the year 2000.
These include typewriters, cutlery with swastika emblems, musical instruments, sport suits with prominent Third Reich insignia, and many personal belongings.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
In one case, the cabinet or wallet of a crewman revealed cash and stamps from the time.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Among the countless items in this exhibition are original material – including radio stations – employed by the resistance movements in Norway, as well as light weapons, uniforms and decorations of the Soviet troops who operated in the Finnmark region, helping in repelling the Germans in the last stages of WWII.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
On the outside, the anchor and parts of the armor of Tirpitz can be seen, together with an official memorial stone.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The museum is located some five miles from Alta, in the small settlement of Kåfjord. It is hosted in a single, small wooden building – possibly a former canteen – to be found here, with a small parking nearby. A website with full visiting information is here.
Visiting the museum may take from 30 minutes to 1 hour depending on your level of interest.
Vemork Hydroelectric Power Plant & Heavy Water Facility – Rjukan
The nuclear program of the Third Reich is still today a matter for researchers, since – mysteriously enough – most documentation disappeared by the end of the war. Among the ascertained facts were the excellence of nuclear scientist in Germany at the time on the one hand, and the total lack of adequate quantities of raw material, or plants for processing it, to actually build real nuclear weapons on the other.
The latter is witnessed by the great strategic value attributed to the plant in Rjukan, hidden in a scenic deep valley in the region of Telemark, in southern Norway, about three hours by car from Oslo. A hydroelectric plant there – the exact name is Vemork power-plant – was employed to produce heavy water through a dedicated electrolysis separation process, which requires huge amounts of energy. Heavy water is a key component for the production of Plutonium – in turn required for atomic weapons – in heavy-water reactors.
Also the Norwegians understood the value of the plant. As soon as the winds of war started blowing from Germany in early 1940, heavy water then in storage was taken away to France, and later to Britain following the invasion of France by the Third Reich.
After Norway had been occupied by the Reich, the plant was at the center of three sabotage operations. Extremely risky and partly ending in disaster, these operations were carried out both by Norwegian and British staff, parachuted from Britain.
It took until 1944 to mortally hit the plant, well protected by its own natural setting. Two dedicated bombing raids carried out by US bombers damaged the plant beyond repair – at least in the late war scenario, when the Third Reich reaction capacity was weakening every day. The final act in the Norwegian heavy water saga was the sinking of the small boat – named Hydro – loaded with the reserve of heavy water from Vemork, having just started its trip to Germany on Lake Tinn.
The plant was again in business in the years after the war, and remained operative until the early 1990s, involved in production of various chemicals.
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Today, it is a much visited museum. Actually, the most impressive part of the plant is that of the hydroelectric turbines. Aligned in a single immense hangar, these now silent giant machinery send glimpses of the original, fashionable early-1900 industrial style.
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Some of the turbines and generator assemblies – manufactured by AEG, as witnessed by the labels – are really huge.
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
A suspended platform allows to capture with a bird’s eye the entire hall. Here you can see also completely analog control panels, again in a very elegant style from the era.
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The museum in Vemork can be reached in less than 3 hours driving from central Oslo. The power-plant can be approached walking from the parking (here) over a suspended bridge crossing the deep valley. The area is very scenic. The highlight of the show is the hall with the power turbines. A visit may take from a few minutes to more than 1 hour for more interested subjects.
A website with full information can be found here.
Belgrade, the capital city of today’s Serbia, with a population of 1.3 millions, boasts traces of dating back to the Roman Empire. Strategically located on the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers, through the ages it grew to become a major military and trading post.
A city at war – brief historical perspective
In the 19th century, with the foundation of a Kingdom of Serbia free from the Ottoman rule, Belgrade became a capital city of an independent power, right at the geographical center of the Balkan region.
In 1914, tense relations with the better established and more powerful Austrian Empire triggered WWI, where Serbia fought on the side of the winners, gaining territories extending to the Adriatic Sea from the dismembered Austrian empire. These regions were encapsulated in an unprecedented entity, the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, where Belgrade played again as capital city.
Soon after, WWII saw a bloody and rather unsung front opening in the Balkans, conquered from the north by Hitler’s Wehrmacht, and from the south by fascist Italy. The Kingdom of Yugoslavia ceased to exist, and Belgrade – initially the target of massive air attacks by Germany – was made for a while the capital of a kind of German protectorate. It was in the final years of WWII that communist-led resistance para-military corps led by Marshal Tito, secretly supported by the Western Allies, started operating massively against the Axis. Tito was backed especially by the British, who provided war materiel, staff for tactical decisions and political support.
When Serbia was liberated, with the help of the Red Army attacking from southern Ukraine through today’s Romania on Serbia’s eastern border, Tito raised to power, re-founding Yugoslavia as a communist country extending from Greece to Austria and Italy, and with borders with Hungary, Romania and Bulgaria – all the latter three being communist countries, deeply entangled with the Soviet Union. Belgrade was again the capital city of a powerful and strategically relevant state.
Quite oddly from Stalin’s perspective, Tito did not capitulate the sovereignty of Yugoslavia to the USSR – unlike most states in Eastern Europe. This again was possible likely through the support of the West, in the quickly evolving geo-political situation soon after WWII leading to the Cold War, where former allies split on the two sides of the Iron Curtain. As a matter of fact, no Soviet military bases were ever placed in Yugoslavia, a communist country which until the Fifties even obtained war material from the West!
Tito managed to keep his post on the international scene and internally until his death in 1980. Soon after, the artificial ties between the many nations united in Yugoslavia began to crack, and almost at the same time of the end of communism in Eastern Europe, the country literally fell apart. As of now the bloodiest conflicts in post-WWII Europe, the Yugoslavian Wars saw the secession of several new national entities from one another and from Serbia. Belgrade is now the capital city of the Republic of Serbia.
War heritage in Belgrade – What is covered in this chapter
The troubled history of Belgrade as a capital city has left permanent traces in the fort, one of the oldest and most prominent highlights in town. The foundations bear traces of the ancient Roman fort, but a defense bunker dug underground within its premises is a witness of the role of this old part of the town in more recent years.
An ideal setting for a weapons display, the fort is also where the museum of military history can be found. Dating from Tito’s era, this place boasts a remarkable collection of war material from all ages, including WWII, the Cold War and the 1990s. It stands as a perfect counterpart for the air museum, covered in this chapter. Further items of interest include one-of-a-kind memorabilia items belonging to Marshal Tito.
Being Tito’s Yugoslavia capital city, it is no surprise the founder of postwar Yugoslavia was buried here. An extremely interesting purpose-built museum – a major relic of the Cold War era – surrounds the mausoleum. There you can find a massive documentation on the dictator, including signed photographs and gifts from prominent western political leaders – including virtually every US President in office during Tito’s many decades in charge! This witnesses the special status of Marshal Tito in the eyes of western powers.
Another characteristic sight is the ‘Genex Tower’, a unique skyscraper of American size, with a style resembling ‘Blade Runner’ motion picture’s set. A real punch in the eye in the landscape, this is tower is of course another witness of how private enterprises – this time, the Yugoslavian tourism group Genex – could get a prominent status in communist Yugoslavia, differently from Soviet-style fully centralized economies. It is also an example of an original architectural style from the Cold War era, showing the great care given to art and architecture by the communist party of Yugoslavia – another prominent example being ‘spomeniks’, monuments scattered over the entire former territory of the country (see this dedicated chapter).
Similarly interesting is ‘Avala Tower’, a TV tower with an elevated panorama platform from the 1960s. Besides the architectural interest, it is worth mentioning this tower was targeted by NATO air raids in 1999, and completely demolished. It was rebuilt in an identical shape and re-opened only recently.
The oddest among war-connected items in town is the former building of the ministry of defense, close to today’s capital directional center. Having being targeted by NATO bombing raids in 1999 and severely damaged, it was left for years damaged and derelict, a memento for the attack by NATO forces, and the focus of much controversy.
Photographs of these sites are from a visit in Spring 2019.
Map
The sites covered in this chapter can be found on the map below.
When getting access to the beautiful historical fort of Belgrade, a vantage point to watch the oldest districts and the rivers, you will hardly miss an impressive array of cannons, howitzers, tanks and missile batteries from earlier than Napoleon to the Cold War.
This rich collection is the outside part of the Military Museum of Belgrade. Founded back in Tito’s era, this museums offers an overview of the war history of this war-battered part of the world, since ancient times to the latest Yugoslavian Wars of the 1990s.
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
The collection features interesting items especially from WWII, including pieces of German make, as well as from the Cold War period, like Soviet-made ‘Katyusha’ launchers and SAM batteries.
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Despite the initial struggle with Stalin, after the latter’s death, relations with the USSR improved. Since then, military supply for Yugoslavia mainly came from the USSR, flanked by a non-negligible domestic production.
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
The indoor collection starts from much back in time, with weapons dating from the centuries of the struggle against the Ottoman rule. A major section is dedicated to the 19th century, when the Kingdom of Serbia was founded. As known, the spark for WWI came from the Balkans. Serbia took part to the war on the side of the Entente. As a result, after WWI the Kingdom of Serbia increased its territory and became known as the Kingdom of Yugoslavia since the late 1920s.
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Resulting from the political union of peoples of diverse ethnicity, religion, language and commercial vocation, this kingdom never experienced much stability. As a matter of fact, king Alexander I was murdered on a visit to France by Macedonian fighters for independence. The blood stained shirt of the king following the assassination – notably the first such event to be video recorded, albeit in 1934 quality – is preserved in the museum.
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Like elsewhere in Europe, WWII years saw the suppression of the existing institutions. In 1941 Yugoslavia was invaded by neighboring Hitler’s Germany (which at that time was a single entity with Austria). The Nazi rule was implemented in the region of today’s Serbia, administrated by a German-backed local government. Items from this era are abundant, and include maps, weaponry and uniforms.
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Of special interest are also the double-language notices – in German and Serbian – produced by Nazi Germany, with the distinctive eagle and swastika (similar to what you can find in the occupied territories of the USSR, see for instance here).
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Also interesting are the bounty signs about Tito and other ‘comrades’ – the resistance movements were well organized and supplied, with the backing of Western Allies operating from Greece and southern Italy in the latter years of the war, thus creating real troubles to the invading powers.
Despite that, also improvised weapons were used, presented in the museum. Being an installation from Tito’s time, the operations of the communist-led resistance para-military units is showcased with flags, banners, uniforms and weapons.
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
A true relic in the museum is made of a small collection of Marshal Tito’s own uniforms and everyday items. These include some field items – torchlight, map magnifier – as well as more personal belongings – glasses, a USSR souvenir, apparently a pencil case, and more.
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Some interesting photographs include portraits of US staff and aircraft operating from Yugoslavia, as well as a copy of the declaration of support to Tito’s army from the participants to the Tehran conference – Churchill, Stalin and president Roosevelt.
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
A very Soviet-style part of the museum is a kind of memorial, with a statue of Tito and a myriad of banners from various military groups – a kind of homage – completed by a massive engraved metal map of communist Yugoslavia.
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
A significant part of the museum deals with the 1990s wars. These include the early secession war mainly opposing Croatia, but deeply involving Bosnia-Herzegovina. Weapons of the Croatian army are on display.
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
A latter part is devoted to the war with Kosovo, which resulted in an open, mainly air-fought conflict against overwhelming NATO forces. From the fierce and polemical titles of the display cases in this latest part of the museum, it is clear that this fragment of history is still an open wound in the collective memory of Serbia. Maps of NATO bombing incursions have been created, and curiously translated into English, for the eyes of western visitors.
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
Military Museum Belgrade Serbia
More substantial remains from this relatively recent struggle can be found at the air museum of Belgrade, covered in this post, in the form of wrecks of downed aircraft and western missile bodies.
Visiting
The museum is a major attraction among those scattered over the premises of the fort. Access to the outdoor part, surely deserving a walk-through also for those not particularly interested in history, is free of charge, and may be very appealing for the kids. The indoor collection is extremely interesting for war historians or history-minded people, but the exhibition may be hard for children. Most items are labeled also in English, making the visit interesting. Visiting the inside part may take from .5 to more than 1 hour, depending on your level of interest. A photo permit is required to take pictures inside. Website with info here.
Mystery Bunker in the Fort of Belgrade
This bunker is poorly advertised, and only scarce on-site descriptions are provided. It is basically made of a tunnel built close to a the most panoramic corner of the fortress. Access is via a narrow stair, giving access to a U-shaped corridor, connecting two double-floor underground circular towers.
Blegrade WWII Bunker Fort Serbia
Blegrade WWII Bunker Fort Serbia
On the lower floor of the towers, sleeping rooms for troops can be found, together with water tanks. On the upper floor what appears as an unfinished or lately interred firing position for high-caliber artillery can be found.
Blegrade WWII Bunker Fort Serbia
Blegrade WWII Bunker Fort Serbia
Blegrade WWII Bunker Fort Serbia
Blegrade WWII Bunker Fort Serbia
Blegrade WWII Bunker Fort Serbia
Blegrade WWII Bunker Fort Serbia
Blegrade WWII Bunker Fort Serbia
Construction is similar to some installations of the Atlantic Wall (see for instance here and here), hence it may date from WWII or soon after.
Due to the (strangely) scant description, it is hard to tell the history of this mystery bunker, and I am only guessing its function.
Visiting
The site can be visited with an inexpensive ticket, to be purchased (cash only) by the entrance to the helical pit, a much more advertised attraction nearby. To be honest, nobody checked my ticket once by the entrance to the bunker, which at a first glance can be confused with a backyard deposit (it is really not much celebrated as an attraction). Anyway, I came across a Serbian-speaking small guided group on my visit, so there must be chance of getting inside like that, enjoying some better explanation. Visiting alone may take 15 minutes. A little info on the site of the Fortress, here.
Marshal Tito’s Mausoleum and Memorabilia Museum
This installation lies to the back of the older building of the Museum of Yugoslavia, dating from Tito’s era and currently closed for renovation (2020). The neighborhood is very nice, with buildings of many embassies. The mausoleum and the annexed museum are part of a nice ensemble, surrounded by a garden. A very modern entrance hall with shop and services has been prepared at the entrance.
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
The burial place of Marshal Tito is in a greenhouse-like building, pretty nice and peaceful. The tomb is definitely plain and not bombastic, nothing you would expect from a dictator. Tito’s wife is buried nearby.
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
To the sides of the building you can find a well designed exhibition including personal belongings of Tito, parts of his office furniture, as well as pictures – including a magnified one with dignitaries attending his funeral ceremony in 1980.
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
A small excerpt of the huge collection of scepters, a traditional gift offered to Tito by every group or local society on his domestic visits, can be visioned here. Some of these are really nicely crafted, some are funny – some are really kitschy and caricatural.
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
A second part of the installation is hosted in a small, separate building. Here an incredible collection of gifts, personal belongings, photographs, authentic papers from the fund of the Museum of History about momentous events in Yugoslavian history, autographs and scepters can be found.
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Of special interest are the official portraits – often signed – of presidents, dignitaries, kings and queens from various ages and from all over the world. This collection witnesses the relative popularity of Marshal Tito in the West, even though NATO forces never trusted him fully – the missile defense system placed in northeastern Italy in the 1960s and 1970s is a clear memory of that (see this post).
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Similar to Ceausescu’s house in Bucharest (see here), the items on display make for a very vivid memory of Marshal Tito life and actions, and really bring back the man from history. Really an evoking place those interested in the Cold War can’t miss out!
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Tito Museum and Mausoleum Belgrade Serbia
Visiting
This attraction can be easily reached by car, a few minutes from central Belgrade, in a nice and safe neighborhood (see map). The local name is ‘Kuca Cveca’. As a branch of the Museum of Yugoslavia, it is modernly managed and has been recently revamped, making the visit enjoyable and interesting. For those with an interest in the Cold War era or Tito’s life and legacy, a visit to this site may easily take 1-1.5 hours on a self-guided basis, despite the place being relatively small and easy to tour. Guided tours are possible as well, info on the official website (in English) here.
Genex Tower
An internationally known piece of contemporary architecture, this strange looking massive skyscraper can be clearly spotted from the fortressof Belgrade, looking west towards ‘Nikola Tesla’ airport. It was built between 1977 and 1980, and is made of two bodies connected at the top through an elevated platform.
The name Genex Tower comes from the legacy Genex company, a large tour operator from the Yugoslavian era, operating even an independent airline, Aviogenex, flying mainly touristic routes conveying visitors from western Europe to the beautiful coast of Dalmatia. This openness of Yugoslavia to western tourism has been an uncommon characteristic in the panorama of communist-led countries. Overt trade relations with the West contributed to a higher standard of living of Yugoslav population, compared to the USSR-controlled Eastern Bloc neighbors.
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
The tower is today partly a relic. The half once hosting the offices of Genex and its subsidiaries is mostly empty, even though not abandoned – there is a porter apparently living there, and willing to answer your questions on the history of the place! Going beyond the entry hall is not possible, but the hall itself deserves a glance – built with style, it is much more pleasant than the outside of the building!
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
The atmosphere is really evocative of the Cold War era. Like other buildings – mainly hotels – in former Yugoslavia, the style of the interior somehow recalls the old-fashioned luxury of some older James Bond movie setting!
The residential part is still inhabited as a high-rise condominium. The entrance is via a small door, but despite the derelict appearance of the small square ahead of the building, it looks normally cared for.
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
The circular platform on top of the tower used to host a panorama restaurant, today long gone.
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
Genex Tower Communist Skyscraper Belgrade Serbia
The view of the platform from between the two main bodies from the base makes for a peculiar photographic set – as a matter of fact, professional photographers were taking pictures from that spot for a fashion review!
Visiting
The tower can be reached by car, a few minutes north of the city center. This is basically a non-public building, so while visiting is not possible, the open, unfenced premises at the base of the tower allow walking freely around the tower. The neighborhood is densely populated and safe, despite the base of the tower not looking good, due to disrepair. Parking opportunities all around. A walk around the base may take 15 minutes. If you like to get inside the hall of the largely unused (as of 2020) commercial building, you may also have a chat with the porter about the history of the place. The visit won’t be much longer, anyway.
Avala Tower
This tower is located south of Belgrade, and is a vantage point for observing the town and the countryside around. The original tower was completed between 1961 and 1964, entering the world’s top-ten list of tallest buildings at the height of the Cold War era. That tower was targeted by NATO bombing in 1999 and destroyed. It was rebuilt between 2007 and 2009, mostly identical to the original design.
It is today a renowned tourist attraction. A remarkable engineering and design masterpiece, the tower boasts an uncommon three-leg base, giving a shape well fitting in the years of the space age when it was designed – despite the inspiration being reportedly from a three-legged Serbian traditional chair.
Avala Tower and Unknown Soldier Monument Belgrade Serbia
Avala Tower and Unknown Soldier Monument Belgrade Serbia
Avala Tower and Unknown Soldier Monument Belgrade Serbia
Avala Tower and Unknown Soldier Monument Belgrade Serbia
Avala Tower and Unknown Soldier Monument Belgrade Serbia
The platform on top can be reached via a fast elevator. Strange massive condominiums in the southern outskirts of Belgrade can be clearly spotted from here, but the most striking feature is the wild countryside surrounding Belgrade, really a spot in the green.
Avala Tower and Unknown Soldier Monument Belgrade Serbia
Avala Tower and Unknown Soldier Monument Belgrade Serbia
Avala Tower and Unknown Soldier Monument Belgrade Serbia
Avala Tower and Unknown Soldier Monument Belgrade Serbia
Not far from the tower, the interesting Monument to the Unknown Soldier from the 1930s is a remarkable national shrine from the years of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia.
Avala Tower and Unknown Soldier Monument Belgrade Serbia
Avala Tower and Unknown Soldier Monument Belgrade Serbia
Avala Tower and Unknown Soldier Monument Belgrade Serbia
Avala Tower and Unknown Soldier Monument Belgrade Serbia
Avala Tower and Unknown Soldier Monument Belgrade Serbia
Avala Tower and Unknown Soldier Monument Belgrade Serbia
Avala Tower and Unknown Soldier Monument Belgrade Serbia
Avala Tower and Unknown Soldier Monument Belgrade Serbia
Avala Tower and Unknown Soldier Monument Belgrade Serbia
Avala Tower and Unknown Soldier Monument Belgrade Serbia
Visiting
The Avala Tower can be reached by car in about 45 minutes from central Belgrade – mainly due to traffic, since it is not geographically far (see map). Parking on site. The place is managed as a modern large scale attraction, website here.
The Monument to the Unknown Soldier is open 24/7, a quick and interesting detour from the tower, with a dedicated small parking close to a fashionable ‘old-Europe’ vintage hotel. Explanatory panels nearby.
Ruins of the Ministry of Defense
The building of the ministry of defense was targeted during a bombing raid in April 1999, and severely damaged. An administrative building right in today’s administrative district of downtown Belgrade, it has been left mostly untouched for years now, as a memento of the war against the NATO alliance.
Damaged bombarded buildings central Belgrade Serbia
Damaged bombarded buildings central Belgrade Serbia
Damaged bombarded buildings central Belgrade Serbia
Damaged bombarded buildings central Belgrade Serbia
Damaged bombarded buildings central Belgrade Serbia
Damaged bombarded buildings central Belgrade Serbia
Damaged bombarded buildings central Belgrade Serbia
Two buildings can be seen cross the street. Part of the corresponding blocks are still in use, and for safety reasons portions of the damaged buildings have been finally demolished in recent years. More and more plans to convert this very central area to something else have been elaborated, as memory of the troubled 1990s is slowly fading.
Visiting
The place can be reached easily with a walk from the historical and shopping districts of Belgrade (see map). The buildings are inaccessible, and can be seen from the outside. A 5 minutes stop along your walk may suffice to check this item.
For the full span of the Cold War, the communist German Democratic Republic has been a highly militarized region.
Due to its position right on the European border between NATO countries and the USSR-led eastern bloc, this relatively small state was kept in high consideration by the Soviet military staff in Moscow. In the re-organization of Soviet forces following the end of the Great Patriotic War (i.e. WWII), of the four Soviet groups of forces stationed in all satellite countries outside the Soviet border, one was specifically named ‘Group of Soviet Forces in Germany’. This group was headquartered in Wünsdorf, the former location of the German OKW south of Berlin (see this post), and had under its command a force of some hundred thousands troops, divided in two tank armies, an entire air army, three mixed armies and a supplementary artillery division. Supplies were in no shortage either, with some tens of fully operational airbases/tank polygons, academies and housing for all the troops and respective families.
Despite the very significant Soviet presence, the GDR invested a huge capital of its own in the development of a full-scale military strength. The East-German National People’s Army (NVA) received top-tier technology from the USSR, and did of course manufacture military supply of all sorts. Sustaining this army, together with the enormous para-military organization of the internal Ministry of Security – the ill-famed STASI – and other governmental organizations, military expenses undoubtedly contributed to the economical crisis hitting the GDR in the 1980s, setting the scene for its final demise.
The region north of Berlin was particularly rich in military and governmental installations, some of them highly classified, their history shrouded into mystery. You can find some information in dedicated posts on this website (see this post, also here and here).
In this chapter, some more items of interest are featured. Four of them are abandoned tokens from Soviet occupation. A nice belle-epoque villa on the shore of the Röblingsee in Fürstenberg, where the headquarters of the 2nd Guard Tank Army was headquartered since Stalin’s era to the withdrawal of Soviet forces in the 1990s, is the first of them. The second is a unique, forgotten Soviet monument, to be found less than two miles south of Fürstenberg. Two more are memorials and cemeteries, for Soviet troops who perished in the last stage of the Great Patriotic War (WWII) around Berlin.
Other three points of interest are instead GDR-related. The first is the former academy for future leaders of the communist party, established in Wandlitz in the years of Stalin, and initially led by Erich Honecker, later to become the omnipotent leader of the GDR for two decades. In the same area north of Berlin – and precisely in Waldsiedlung, today a nice clinical campus in the countryside – are the former private houses of the members of the central committee of the communist party of the DDR – personalities like Walter Ulbricht, Erich Honecker, Erich Mielke and Egon Krenz lived here with their families. Finally, you will find a glimpse from the so-called ‘Honecker bunker’ in Prenden. This big and highly classified installation was prepared in case of war, to protect the leadership of the GDR and ensure safe communication with Moscow.
Soviet 2nd Guard Tank Army Headquarters, Fürstenberg/Havel
Among the Soviet forces permanently stationed in the GDR in case of war, there used to be two entire tank armies, the 1st and 2nd. The former was headquartered in Dresden, whereas the 2nd – named ‘Red Banner’ – in Fürstenberg/Havel.
The headquarter in Fürstenberg is basically an old villa, possibly dating to the late 19th century or a slightly more recent time. The villa is somewhat unusual in the panorama of todays Fürstenberg. This is a nice and lively touristic town, where many Berliners come to find a retreat in nature, less than 1 hour driving from home. Thanks to tourism-related activities, the area has got rid of the Soviet/East German grayness, and is now a typical village in the German countryside, graced with a creek and a small lake, where canoes and small boats are always roaming around.
In stark contrast with this, the villa is today completely abandoned, with overgrown vegetation almost hiding it from the main road. Access to the premises is easier from the back, where you first meet a typical Soviet prefabricated wall, and service buildings with evidence of a communist design – the usual yellow paint and railings on the windows with the stylized ‘radiant dawn of communist revolution’.
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
Getting closer to the house, you meet an access door, possibly going to a bunkerized area underneath. The house is in a really bad shape, with rotting walls, plants growing on the balconies and roof. The inside has been made completely inaccessible. A typical East German light is still hanging from the back wall.
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
To the front, a temple-like decoration contours the main door. It is difficult to say whether this decoration was there since the beginning, since it appears rather different in style from the rest of the villa.
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
A highlight of this site is the statue of Lenin still standing ahead of the front facade. The statue is in a relatively good shape. It looks like the man was portrayed during a discussion.
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
The concrete sculpture was accurately made, as witnessed by the facial expression and details in the embroidery of the tie.
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Soviet Headquarter Furstenberg Havel Berlin Lenin Statue
On the front side, the villa used to be reachable with a large flight of steps climbing uphill, with Lenin on top. Today this perspective is gone, for vegetation has totally invaded the steps, and the front of the house is not visible from the street.
Getting there and moving around
The villa is located in central Fürstenberg on Steinförder Strasse (possibly) 44, on the southern side of the road. The house and its large garden estate are abandoned, but all other houses around are not. Getting closer without being spotted is easier from the backstreet. Technically speaking, the latter is accessible for residents only, so you may park somewhere else and come closer by foot. Visiting may take about 30 minutes with time for the pictures, for the house is not accessible inside.
It should be remarked that this site is probably not public, and at an unpredictable time it may be either restored or demolished – so checking it out may be not possible for long.
Soviet Monument, Fürstenberg/Havel
A rare example of Soviet commemoration monument can be found very close to Fürstenberg. Apart from the monumental sites in Berlin (see here), a number of smaller Soviet monuments are to be found around the GDR – impressive ghosts of a bygone era.
Among the best preserved are that in the former tank base of Zeithain (see this post), and this one in Fürstenberg.
The monument is composed of two parts, basically two concrete curtains facing each other on the sides of a small apron.
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
The smaller panel to the south is the most intriguing. It is apparently a celebration of an economic plan of the Soviet Union. It is all about the growth in production in several areas of industry and farming, likely resulting from careful planning by the top of the Soviet government.
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Between a citation from Lenin and a stylized image of the Kremlin, several panels cite one by one the increases in production of anything from oil to weapons, from milk to corn.
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
To the back of the monument, the only remaining feature is a remarkable head of Lenin, with yet another citation. It is likely that other features have been removed by vandals, as empty frames can be seen aligned along this face of the monument.
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
The larger panel to the north is a celebration of the march to Berlin during the Great Patriotic War, likely related to specific actions of the Guard Tank Armies. The central slab features an image of the Soviet monument in Treptower Park, Berlin – one the most famous commemorative monuments in the Soviet Union, as witnessed by numerous images to be found still today in many museums in the former USSR (see for instance here).
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Close by, reproductions of decorations and captions of what happened on some days of 1944 and 1945 are reported.
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
On the left panel you can see a reproduction of the march to Berlin, from the battlegrounds in the USSR, through central Europe and Germany. It is likely that some metal parts of the monument once used to connect the ‘points of interest’, but these have disappeared due to vandalism.
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
On the right wing of the monument the names of Heroes of the Soviet Union possibly from the Guard Tank Armies are cited one by one. Close by, the image of the ‘Soviet Motherland Calling’, pretty usual in Soviet war iconography, can be found together with other typical emblems.
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Soviet Memorial 2nd Guard Tank Army Red Banner Abandoned Furstenberg Havel Berlin Victory
Getting there and moving around
This monument is not maintained nor protected. It is open air, unfenced and freely accessible. It will be hopefully restored or moved to a museum, as the weather and vandals are taking their tolls. It can be reached along the road 96 about 1 mile south of Fürstenberg, immediately to the west of the road. A small unofficial parking area can be found ahead of it, making a quick visit really easy.
Soviet Memorial and Cemetery, Rathenow
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The Soviet memorial in Rathenow is one of a number of smaller military cemeteries for Soviet troops in the region around Berlin. Soviet soldiers perished in the area in the thousands in the final stage of WWII (1945), when the Red Army entered the northeastern part of todays Germany from Poland, pushing towards Berlin and fighting against the agonizing but still fierce German Wehrmacht.
Apart from the gigantic and formal monuments in Berlin (see this chapter), more modest shrines are scattered around the German capital city, all built roughly in the same period, between the end of the war in Europe and 1950, in the years of Stalin.
The Rathenow site is a small town cemetery, a proportionate, down-scaled version of its larger counterparts in Berlin – especially Schönholzer Heide (see here) – and can be found in the center of the sleepy town of Rathenow. A central obelisk with a commemoration plaque is topped by a golden five-pointed star, the symbol of the Red Army.
Soviet Red Army Memorial Rathenow
Soviet Red Army Memorial Rathenow
Soviet Red Army Memorial Rathenow
Soviet Red Army Memorial Rathenow
Soviet Red Army Memorial Rathenow
Soviet Red Army Memorial Rathenow
A number of soberly designed grave stones for as many Soviet troops are aligned in rows, creating an elegant perspective. Most of the graves bear complete names, as well as the birth and death years. Similar to the war cemeteries dating also from WWI (see for instance here and here), the very young age of most of the troops in the final struggle around Berlin is readily apparent.
Soviet Red Army Memorial Rathenow
Soviet Red Army Memorial Rathenow
Soviet Red Army Memorial Rathenow
Soviet Red Army Memorial Rathenow
Soviet Red Army Memorial Rathenow
Soviet Red Army Memorial Rathenow
Soviet Red Army Memorial Rathenow
Soviet Red Army Memorial Rathenow
Soviet Red Army Memorial Rathenow
Soviet Red Army Memorial Rathenow
Soviet Red Army Memorial Rathenow
Despite being fenced and of course not left in a state of disrepair, the green areas immediately outside of the perimeter of the monument in Rathenow are somewhat neglected, perhaps reflecting a fading interest for this monument.
Getting there and moving around
The Soviet monument in Rathenow can be reached at the crossing of Ferdinand Lassalle Str. with Friedrich Ebert Ring, in central Rathenow. The monument is very compact and can be toured in a few minutes.
Soviet Memorial and Cemetery, Blumberg
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The monument in Blumberg, in the northern outskirts of Berlin and really close to town, is smaller than the one in Rathenow (see above), but shares the general arrangement with it.
A central pillar with a commemoration slab is surmounted in this case by a statue of a Soviet soldier, holding a Red Banner flag.
Soviet Red Army Memorial Blumberg
Soviet Red Army Memorial Blumberg
Soviet Red Army Memorial Blumberg
Soviet Red Army Memorial Blumberg
Soviet Red Army Memorial Blumberg
Soviet Red Army Memorial Blumberg
Soviet Red Army Memorial Blumberg
Soviet Red Army Memorial Blumberg
Ahead and around the pillar, gravestones put flat on the ground are aligned in a perspective. However, the overgrown vegetation is basically hiding these lines of tombs, so that even from a small distance the central monument appears as an isolated item, put in the middle of a grassy area.
Soviet Red Army Memorial Blumberg
Soviet Red Army Memorial Blumberg
Soviet Red Army Memorial Blumberg
Soviet Red Army Memorial Blumberg
Actually, the major difference with other monuments of the kind lies in the rather remoteness of the one in Blumberg. It is a listed historical landmark, and therefore at least minimally cared for, but on the other hand, it is located relatively far from todays nearest settlement, hidden in the trees, and out of sight for anybody except people going there specifically for it. This makes it rather mysterious, a silent memento of old memories.
Getting there and moving around
The monument is conveniently located just out of the A10 highway (the external ring of Berlin), in the settlement of Ahrensfelde. You may reach Chausseedreieck and drive to its western dead end, where you can conveniently park. From there a grassy path points south into the trees, and in less than 150 yards you will find the monument. The size of the monument is small, hence no further walking is needed. A mosquito repellent is highly recommended in the warm season.
Free German Youth Academy & Joseph Goebbels Manor, Wandlitz
Deep in the countryside about 25 miles north of Berlin, about 3 miles from the small touristic village of Wandlitz, you can find a couple of highlights from the troublesome past of Germany, sitting side by side, close to the small Bogensee lake.
The first is the country estate of Joseph Goebbels, the famous minister for education and propaganda in the years of the Nazi dictatorship. This villa has been built in the war years, and often used by its owner, also for receiving guests. Goebbels obtained the estate as a birthday present from the Nazi Party.
Incredibly, the manor, built in a typical German country style, was not demolished after the war – so unlike other residences belonging to Hitler or his fellows, it is still there to see. It survived denazification, Soviet occupation and 40 years in the GDR as part of a school (see below).
The outside is the only part you can see. The appearance is sober, with simple lines and not much vertical elevation – it nicely integrates in the natural setting.
Joseph Goebbels Manor Nazi Leader Bogensee Wandlitz Hitler Present
Joseph Goebbels Manor Nazi Leader Bogensee Wandlitz Hitler Present
Joseph Goebbels Manor Nazi Leader Bogensee Wandlitz Hitler Present
Joseph Goebbels Manor Nazi Leader Bogensee Wandlitz Hitler Present
Joseph Goebbels Manor Nazi Leader Bogensee Wandlitz Hitler Present
Access to the courtyard is from a small road, now part of the inner network of the larger complex surrounding the manor.
This complex is actually the other peculiar item you can find in Wandlitz. This enormous academy was built in 1951, on behalf of the Free German Youth (FDJ), a youth-training organization founded and originally run by Erich Honecker, later to become the general secretary of the communist party of the GDR in the 1970s and 1980s.
The academy was designed by Hermann Henselmann the same architect who designed Karl-Marx-Allee in the Soviet sector of Berlin – one of the most iconic ‘Stalin’s-style’ perspectives in the world. The complex is composed of two large opposing buildings, on the short sides of an internal courtyard. These hosted common areas, lecture rooms and a theater.
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
Along the longer sides of the courtyard are buildings with bedrooms and services for around 500 students.
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
The academy was for the future staff of the communist party, and in later years of the Cold War it was attended also by international students from communism-leaning nations, or sometimes even from NATO countries.
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
Following the collapse of the GDR, the building went on hosting educational institutions until the early 2000s, owned by the regional government. It was then mostly shut off, with some ancillary buildings still hosting institutions connected with the administration of the natural preserve around. It was put up for sale, for a while, but all potential customers failed to present satisfactory conversion plans. An expensive and inconvenient ghost from a forgotten era, as of 2019 its fate has not been sealed yet.
Today the place is not completely abandoned. Basic preservation works are being carried out, thus avoiding the roof to collapse or the walls to rotten. The names of the blocks are likely not from the GDR years. Similarly, a board with notices and maps dating from later than 1989 can still be seen, a witness of the post-GDR activity.
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
Joseph Goebbels Manor Nazi Leader Bogensee Wandlitz Hitler Present
German Communist School Academy Bogensee Wandlitz FDJ Jugendhochschule Jugendleiterschule DDR Honecker Henselmann
The garden is not growing totally wild, and some architectural addition must have been tried in a recent past – like a small modern fountain ahead of the common building to the southwest of the complex. The buildings are still supplied with electrical power – there are lit lights above some doors – and it is discretely guarded to avoid vandalism.
Getting there and moving around
Accessing the area is possible following the L29 from Wandlitz. About 1 mile from the village, the road changes its name to Wandlitzer Strasse. There is a local road with limited access taking to the east. You may park there, and proceed along the road by foot for about .5 miles to reach the heart of the complex. This is surrounded by private houses. There is no fence, but there are proximity sensors which trigger an inspection. I was reached by a warden on a car soon after my arrival. He spotted me, but did not come close, likely noticing I was just taking pictures outside.
The site is rather mysterious and well worth a quick visit for interested subjects. Touring the site will not take more than 45 minutes, taking all the pictures.
Private Homes of the Members of the Central Committee of the Communist Party of the GDR, Waldsiedlung
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Similar to other top-ranking figures in the Soviet chain of command – like Stalin and others in his communist entourage, who did not spend much of their time in public or close to crowded places in central Moscow – the masters of the communist party in the GDR had their homes in the trees north of Berlin, relatively far from the city center and from the governmental buildings.
Actually, many of them lived together in a rather compact residential district, called Waldsiedlung. Access to the area was obviously controlled, but once inside the place was somewhat similar to a holiday settlement, with smaller single or two-family houses located along quiet alleys in a rural setting. The architecture is far from lavish – all houses are very similar to one another, and are designed in a plain typically East-German style from the post-WWII era.
Today, the settlement in Waldsiedlung has been converted into a campus for clinical studies. However, the original architecture of the place has been left mostly untouched, and explanatory panels telling quick information about the history of the residence have been planted ahead of most of the housing once occupied by old communist big brasses.
The office by the gate, and the metal gate itself, are totally original, as can be seen from historical pictures.
Waldsiedlung – GDR Communist Party private homes
Waldsiedlung – GDR Communist Party private homes
Waldsiedlung – GDR Communist Party private homes
Waldsiedlung – GDR Communist Party private homes
Waldsiedlung – GDR Communist Party private homes
Waldsiedlung – GDR Communist Party private homes
Among the first buildings past the gate is a former congress center/clubhouse/gathering facility for the inhabitants of the residence.
Waldsiedlung – GDR Communist Party private homes
Waldsiedlung – GDR Communist Party private homes
Waldsiedlung – GDR Communist Party private homes
Moving on to the northern part of the settlement, the modest house of Erich Honecker and his wife Margot can be easily found. The two-storey construction has a patio on the backyard. A mystery wooden hut can be found next to the latter.
Waldsiedlung – Erich Honecker’s Home
Waldsiedlung – Erich Honecker’s Home
Waldsiedlung – Erich Honecker’s Home
Waldsiedlung – Erich Honecker’s Home
The Honeckers were forced to leave this house in the turmoil following the collapse of the wall and the starting of the reunification process. Honecker fled to the Soviet Union in seek for protection, quickly departing from the Soviet base in Sperenberg (see here). He was trialed in absentia, in connection to the order issued to the GDR border guards to used deadly force against people trying to pass the ‘anti-fascist wall’, and the ensuing deaths. He remained in the USSR until also that dictatorship collapsed, and he was forced to escape to South America, where he died soon after.
To the far end of the same alley is the house of Walter Ulbricht and his wife Lotte. Somewhat larger than Honecker’s house, it is however not much more evolved in adornments or architectural fantasy.
Waldsiedlung – Walter Ulbricht’s Home
Waldsiedlung – Walter Ulbricht’s Home
Waldsiedlung – Walter Ulbricht’s Home
On another alley, parallel to the previous one, is also the house of Erich Mielke, the uncontested head of the ill-famed STASI, since its early years to the end.
Waldsiedlung – Erich Mielke’s Home
Waldsiedlung – Erich Mielke’s Home
The man was captured and trialed for an old case of homicide, after the shut-off of the STASI monstrous machine. He died soon after.
Today even these smaller buildings have been converted for a new function in the clinical campus. Therefore, they cannot be toured inside. However, strolling in this inconspicuous, quiet village where a huge concentration of power used to be seated, provides a strange feeling.
Getting there and moving around
The Brandenburg Clinic, which has now taken over the Waldsiedlung residence for the members of the GDR government, is on the road N.273, between Bernau and Wandlitz. The clinic in Waldsiedlung is rather busy, and the parking ahead of it may be crowded. However, since the place is guarded and access regulated, that is the only credible parking option also for a historically-themed visit. You can access the area by foot undisturbed, and take photographs of the exteriors. There are explanatory panels ahead of many of the former residential homes.
Honecker Bunker, Prenden
Geographically very close to the academy in Wandlitz (see above) – less than 1 straight mile away – the bunker in Prenden is the central piece of a network of bunkers and military hardware, designed an built on behalf of the National Defense Council (NVR) of the GDR from 1973 onward, and named ‘komplex 5000’. The purpose was protection of the leadership of the GDR in case of a crisis or attack from the West.
The bunker is Prenden, technically listed as ’17/5001′, was a control center of incredible sophistication, designed to withstand nuclear blasts, and with direct communication with other sub-nodes of a larger communication network, thus granting safe communication and broadcasting ability, allowing to lead the country in case of a crisis. The bunker was intended to host the general secretary of the communist party, i.e. Erich Honecker, when the bunker was commissioned in 1983 – hence the unofficial name ‘Honecker bunker’.
The premises of Prenden are now largely in private hands, but some parts are apparently publicly accessible – the original fence has been completely torn down. The bunker itself is sealed, and can be accessed only on a few days per year with a guide.
The official entrance to the area is through the original GDR-made gate. This is closed however, for it is now the entrance to a small private industrial complex.
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Traces of the original fence, as well as piping and vents for underground rooms, can be found around the hill on top of which the installation is standing.
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Some service buildings in typical communist style can be still found, despite demolition works having taken place. Proximity sensors and signs delimit the private property area.
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
The three-storey building on the southwestern corner of the complex used to be the ‘front office’ of the bunker. Today, it is in a really bad shape.
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Inside, traces of the original furniture and services can still be found, albeit much deteriorated.
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Access to the bunker is on the underground floor. You may notice the prison-like railings ahead of the access stairs. A feature that might make you jump when you are exploring alone – if walking in a forgotten communist government building, deep in the silent German countryside, was not enough… – is the lit bulb hanging over the entrance to the bunker – really unexpected!
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Besides the building, a shelter-garage for trucks and cars is still in a relatively good shape.
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Honecker Bunker Objekt 17/5001 Prenden DDR Berlin
Getting there and moving around
The Prenden bunker is not publicized, but it can be neared easily with a car, about 1 mile south of the small village of Prenden, along Utzdorfer Strasse. The gate can be clearly spotted, but it will be likely closed, and there are obvious ‘no trespassing’ signs and labels of private companies. You may park outside and proceed along the side of the property to the back of it, where the abandoned building mentioned above can be found. Whether this is still on private land or not is not very clear. There are proximity sensors between the abandoned building and the rest of the complex, likely to trigger inspection if you get too close to the (surely) private part of the complex.
Venturing in the building is definitely not safe, and the bunker entrance is usually closed. Official visits to the bunker are possible on guided tours arranged irregularly about once per month (please browse the internet for more info on visiting, cause I could not find an official site of the place to link here).
During the Cold War the condition of Denmark on the international stage was among the most complex. Coming from years of neutrality before WWII, conquered in a matter of days in spring 1940 by neighbor Germany, at that time in the throes of the Nazi fury, it found itself on the front line of the two opposing blocs soon after May 1945.
Having not been occupied by the Soviets during WWII, it could better choose about its future, and in 1949 the mother country of the Vikings joined NATO as a funding member – unlike neighbor Sweden and Finland – thus giving its availability to its Allies to help countering Soviet influence over the territory under its control.
History in brief
Often overlooked when looking at the world map for its relatively small area, at the beginning of the Cold War the geographical position of Denmark nonetheless was – and, to some extent, still is – strategically very relevant. It is right on the inlet of the Baltic Sea, with a proximity to the foreign coasts of Norway and Sweden such to allow easily blocking the marine traffic on the Kattegat strait, when needed, by means of mere cannon fire from the coast. During the Cold War, this meant a virtual control over a sea where the USSR and Eastern Bloc Countries had many industrially relevant and non-freezing ports, as well as navy bases. Furthermore, the islands of Denmark, where large cities like Odense and Copenhagen are, can be found as close as 1.5 hours by boat to the coast of the German Democratic Republic – once one of the most heavily militarized countries on earth, also thanks to a massive Soviet presence. The smaller island of Bornholm, further east, is even closer than that to the coast of Poland.
A curious fact in history demonstrated the proximity of Denmark to the communist sphere of influence, shaking the minds of top ranking Soviet military. On March 5th, 1953, on the very same day of Stalin’s death, the first defection of a jet fighter from the Eastern Bloc took place, when a Polish MiG-15 on a routine flight along the Baltic Coast suddenly left his mates and rushed to Bornholm, where it landed on a field, leaving the aircraft in almost pristine conditions.
The cautious reaction of the Danish government and military forces reflects the position of the country at the time – they had identified the USSR and their satellites as a clear and present threat, and consequently they had taken the side of the West. Yet Denmark knew it could not withstand a direct military hit by the Soviets for more than a few hours, therefore as a form of self-protection, any form of provocation, at least in the early 1950s, was carefully avoided. While the pilot of the MiG was allowed to escape to the UK and then the US, the aircraft was quietly ceded to the US military for technical inspection in the FRG, but then re-mounted and returned to Poland. Other examples of a policy of constant detente with the Soviet Union are represented by the refusal to have NATO bases on its territory, or despite the adoption of the Nike missile system for the airspace protection, the missed deployment of the corresponding tactical nuclear warheads.
Of course, in recognition of the strategic relevance of this pleasant country, plans for a Soviet invasion which would strike in northern Europe, with the objective of reaching to the ports of the North Sea in less than a week from Eastern Germany, included as a major target the quick occupation of the Jutland peninsula, and of the islands of Denmark as well. This had to be done by marching fast through the northern regions of the Federal Republic of Germany, and simultaneously landing troops on the Danish islands.
About this post
Albeit not enough populated to sustain an army capable of resisting the eastern opponents on the other side of the Iron Curtain, thanks to its position on the map, Denmark took over seriously a fundamental border monitoring and interdiction task in favor of all NATO forces. Two tangible witnesses of this are the military bases of Stevnsfort and Langelandsfort, both located on the southern coasts of the islands, overlooking key sea straits, and pointing south to the East German coast. Both have been shut down after the end of the Cold War, and now they can be visited as top-tier military museums.
Further souvenirs from the Cold War era can be found in the Defense and Garrison Museum in Aalborg, a wide-spectrum military museum with a focus on WWII and the Cold War, and in the Danish Museum of Flight, where exemplars from the heterogeneous wings of the Danish Air Force are displayed, together with unique specimens of Danish aircraft production from the inter-war and early Cold War period.
This post covers all these four sites, visited in summer 2019. Presentation doesn’t follow any special order.
This museum on the eastern coast of the island of Zealand (the same of Copenhagen) is actually a former Cold War military fort, operative from the early 1950s to the year 2000. It was re-opened as a museum in 2008, carefully preserved in most part in the forms it had in the 1980s, the most technologically advanced years of the Cold War.
By the entrance to the museum area you can see three surface-to-air missile, namely an old Nike-Ajax, and a much more performing – and bigger – Nike-Hercules. Both were part of the US Nike airspace protection system, which was deployed in Denmark around Copenhagen. The missiles are from the Cold War years, but were not originally present on Stevnsfort.
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Strictly speaking, Stevnsfort is not the part of the installation you access first. The area you meet when getting in from the parking used to be a missile base in charge of the Danish Air Force. It was built for the Hawk system, another US interdiction surface-to-air missile system, the heir of the Nike system. Actually, Nike Hercules batteries in Denmark were withdrawn from use – as elsewhere, see this post – in the 1980s. Their role was taken over by Hawk missile batteries, gradually entering service since the 1960s, and operated till 2005 in Denmark.
Differently from its predecessor, the radar-based Hawk system was entirely movable, making it more flexible and less vulnerable. As a result, there are basically no bunkers in this area, and all constructions here are ‘soft’. Target designation and tracking was demanded to three sub-systems, namely a radar-pulse antenna for target individuation, an interrogation friend-or-foe (IFF) and a target-tracking/homing antenna.
Two radar-pulse antennas are displayed. The aerial emerges from a tent, which covers the electronics and motor of the system. Both are mounted on a truck trailer, which is actually totally movable. The range of the radar scanner was about 75 miles.
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
The IFF antenna is a smaller barrel-shaped device coupled with systems on-board aircraft, needed to distinguish between an enemy aircraft and a friend or ally. The target-tracking/homing antenna, with its distinctive two radar dishes, shares the installation setup with radar-pulse antennas – it sits on top of a trailer, covered in a green tent.
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Close by, trucks and special moving cranes to mount the missiles on their launch gantries are displayed. Also containers for the missiles are shown, together with an example of the Hawk missile itself. The launch order could arrive only from the central Air Force command, except in case of a communication breakdown, when each missile base could decide on its own – at the high risk of making a mistake!
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Farther on, power trucks and other launch systems are displayed besides batteries of Hawk missiles. The launch gantry is smaller in size compared to that of Nike-Hercules, but each gantry launches three missiles instead of only one. The gantry is anchored to the ground, and when inactive it is shrouded in a peculiar rubber-coated eyelid-like bubble, which can be quickly lowered to let the missiles out.
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
On the far end of the missile area, you can see an old-fashioned coastal cannon, part of the original fort, used as an illumination cannon in support of larger cannons in the battery.
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
One of the naval gun batteries is the first item you meet when entering the actual Stevnsfort fort. The fort was built between 1952 and 1955 for use by the Navy, and is the oldest part of the installation. Together with the Langelandsfort gun battery and command post (see below), it was tasked with monitoring marine traffic along the straits giving access to the Kattegat and the North Sea from the inner Baltic. For the purpose, it was supplied with a huge underground bunker, its most distinctive feature, as well as batteries of naval guns.
The 150 mm guns have an intriguing history. They were made in Nazi Germany early during WWII, for the Kriegsmarine ship ‘Gneisenau’. This was damaged when still in the dockyard, and the guns were re-designated to be placed on the Danish island of Fano on the North Sea coast, as part of the fortifications of the Atlantic Wall. Following the end of WWII in May 1945, the guns were captured and finally found their way to Stevnsfort.
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
The two-guns batteries were capable of 4-6 shells per minute per barrel, and could reach to the coast of Sweden, thus effectively closing the Oresund strait between Denmark and Sweden if needed. While primarily an anti-ship battery, the swiveling turret could be used to cover the coast, in case of an amphibious attack.
Firing direction was by means of a primary radar station on site, which is still in use, complemented by five other stations along the coast. The shells were loaded with an elevator from the bunker underneath. The guns were temporarily deactivated – but not dismantled – in the 1980s, when Stevnsfort assumed the role of main control and communication post for the southern district of the Danish Navy. Joint exercises with the military forces of the FRG were carried out also here in the final years of the Cold War.
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
By the entrance to the underground bunker you can spot several air hatches emerging from the ground, and an example of sea mine. The latter was the primary weapon to interdict traffic on the strait, with gun battery fire being mainly directed against enemy mine-sweepers.
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Past the entrance, you need to descend a long stair into the bunker. At the base of the stair is an airlock with facilities for decontamination. The Stevnsfort bunker was most notably the first structure in Denmark to be built to withstand a nuclear attack.
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
The bunker is not excessively big, with about twenty reinforced-concrete-padded rooms connected by tunnels carved in the rock.
One of the highlights of this installation is the communication bunker, operative since 1984 in an area formerly hosting a hospital, then shut down when the naval batteries were deactivated. This used to be a highly inaccessible facility during the Cold War. Thanks to a careful preservation, the room looks like it was still in use! Batteries of telex and other communication machines originally in place, monitors and modern imaging technology from the Eighties, together with examples of ciphered messages are all on display.
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Next to the communication room, the operation room is even more impressive. Similar to the former, it was constantly manned, and totally inaccessible for non-authorized personnel. The radar monitors can be seen towering over the consoles! Military staff on duty identified and followed all marine traffic in the assigned district, both civilian and military, friends and potential enemies.
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Catalogs of existing ships are on display. Several thousands ships were identified and observed from this facility in the days of operation. It is reported that patrol ships from the USSR approached the coast under surveillance about 30 times per year, tasked with familiarizing troops with local geography…
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Another highlight of the visit is the ammo storage for the gun battery previously visited. In the storage, explosive cartridges are placed separately from the shells themselves. There were four types of shells, recognized through a color code – grey for armor-piercing, orange for explosive, green for illuminating and blue for inert.
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
The almost-100 pounds cartridges were loaded on an elevator, and lifted up to the battery. A ladder provided direct access from the bunker to the cannons, serving also as an emergency exit.
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Other rooms you can visit are sleeping quarters for the 250 men which stationed inside the bunker, until the guns were deactivated in 1981. The fort was capable of sustaining prolonged isolation in case of crisis or war. During the Cuban missile crisis, the Stevnsfort bunker was put on maximum alert for a week, with all men living underground, all accesses sealed.
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Cold War Museum Stevnsfort Denmark – Cannons, Bunker and Operations Center
Getting there and moving around
The Cold War Museum Stevnsfort is an international-level museum, to be found 1 hour driving south of central Copenhagen. The official website with directions and opening times is here. Visiting inside the gun battery and the bunker is possible only on a guided tour, where you are given an audio guide in English (also German and possibly other languages) if you can’t follow the Danish-speaking human guide. The guided tour includes also a visit of the missile battery, but this part can be toured also on your own. The guided visit lasts about 1.5 hours, and may turn a little boring in some parts (as usual, the human guide speaks longer than your audio-guide), but it is needed to get access to the most unique parts of the museum. I suggest visiting relatively early in the day, allowing some spare time after the guided tour and before closure to tour the missile part on your own. Free parking ahead of the installation, nice military-themed shop.
Cold War Museum Langelandsfort
This museum has been opened on the premises of a former naval gun installation from the same years of Stevnsfort (see above). Located on the southern island of Langeland, at the inlet of the Belt channel giving access to the Kattegat from the Baltic, it was in a good position to monitor all marine traffic in its sector, as well as for blocking the channel. As a matter of fact, similarly to Stevnsfort, the main target of the naval guns here were minesweepers, for the channel was completely covered with Danish remotely-controlled sea mines, and action of enemy minesweepers would have been necessary before any attack by the bulk of navy forces.
The main naval force in Langelandsfort was constituted of four naval guns, mounted on swiveling turrets, and a fire control bunker which in non-crisis time was used to keep trace of all marine traffic in the sector. The fort was complemented with anti-aircraft defensive positions, a bunkerized power station, and ‘softer buildings’, including barracks. Except for the latter, everything has been restored and can be visited. One of the naval batteries has been restored completely to its original form including the mechanisms underneath, whereas at the base of the other three batteries you can find exhibitions about various aspects of the Cold War – they are all pretty well studied, rich and interesting.
The command bunker is the first construction you meet. The building is from the 1950s, and it shares many aspects with Stevnsfort, though this is much smaller. You can see sleeping quarters and a kitchen, which would be used especially in case the fort was sealed, i.e. in case of high alert or war.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
The control rooms are three. Two are for tracking marine traffic in the marine district of the Belt, and also for coordinating air operations from other military installations in Denmark. A radar antenna and an observation tower outside, likely complemented by similar gear in the area, provided a complete real-time picture of the civilian and military traffic in the sector. It is reported that ships going to Cuba with SS-4 nuclear missiles and related supplies were spotted in these rooms months before that material was photographed by the US, when the crisis broke out.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
The third control room is the fire control room for the whole fort, coordinating fire from all four gun batteries. Fire control was by means of a very interesting piece of machinery, a fully mechanical computer, taking in atmospheric data like temperature, humidity, wind direction and speed, and target data. No electricity was needed except for lighting the goggles of this analog computer! A similar item was present in Stevnsfort, but I could not see it during my guided visit.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
In an adjoining room you can see a perfectly restored communication facility, with ciphered messages hanging on the walls, as well as original transmission machines and early computers. There is also a personal study room for the commander of the post.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Besides the control bunker you can find an anti-aircraft position, centered on a four-barreled anti-aircraft gun. Similar to all others, the small bunker underneath could be manned and sealed in case of war.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
The cannon battery closest to the control bunker has been restored completely, including the bunker underneath. The 150 mm guns, one per battery, were made in the final years of WWII by Skoda works in Plzen, in the then-Nazi occupied territory of Czechia. They were originally intended by the Wehrmacht for the Atlantic Wall in Denmark, but they never became operative there. Instead, they ended up to be installed by Denmark to counter a Soviet threat on the Baltic.
The mechanism for supplying cartridges to the cannon is similar to that in Stevnsfort, with an elevator lifting the explosive charge and the shell separately to the level of the gun. However, here the storage bunker is just beneath the cannon, and the lift does not carry the cartridge directly inside the turret, but to a hatch in the reinforced wall besides the cannon – something similar to some of the smaller cannon batteries of the Atlantic Wall built by the Germans.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Inside the bunker you can see the ammo storage, as well as a sleeping compartment for the 15-men crew needed to operate the cannon.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Some example shells have been preserved, with colors corresponding to different functions of the shell (see Stevnsfort above).
The cartridge elevator room is very small, and access is from both sides. Explosive and shell came from opposite directions, each from the corresponding storage room.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
The bunker under the next cannon battery has been dedicated to the analysis of the threat from the Danish perspective. Here you see copies of the Soviet plans to invade Denmark, as part of an operation to conquer central and northern Europe lightning-fast in case of an open war against the West. Among the most striking items, you can see detailed Soviet maps covering all regions of Denmark – with city names and all writing in Cyrillic!
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
There is also a nice collection of ordinary weapons and military supply from the Eastern Bloc, and especially from the neighboring German Democratic Republic. A very special feature is an example of the ‘Blücher decoration for valor’, a medal created by the GDR to be attributed to individuals for actions of exceptional courage in the defense of the GDR, and to be assigned only in case of war – thanks to the Cold War never turning ‘hot’ for the GDR, nobody could be awarded this decoration.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
The next battery is dedicated to espionage and spy gear, with many examples of James-Bond-like trinkets, actually used by both enemy and Danish spies. Machinery for ciphered communication, once considered hi-tech, is also on display, together with maps used by a Danish spy visiting the Polish coast, and satellite imagery of East German/Soviet airbases.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
The exhibition in the last battery is about the Cold War and society, and is full of old photographs of pro-Soviet protesters in Denmark, spies, famous characters of the Cold War, momentous events taking place in Denmark during the Cold War and so on. Most notably, there are also many artifacts from both Denmark, the Eastern Bloc and the USSR, including medals, posters, portraits and much more.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Similar to the control bunker, the power station has been preserved in its original condition. Three diesel engines could provide power to all bunkers in case of war or failure of the grid for whatever reason. Immediately outside the entrance to the power station bunker there are apparently some suspended showers…
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
The large area of Langelandsfort has been selected also for the exhibition of a submarine, a mine-sweeper and two aircraft! The submarine ‘Springeren’ was used by Denmark in the 1990s and early 2000s, but it was built much earlier and operated by the Norwegian Navy. Sadly, after the retirement of ‘Springeren’, the Danish Navy shut off completely its underwater branch. The ship is a small conventionally powered attack submarine. The interior is apparently pretty modern with respect to older German or US WWII U-boats.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
The submarine features six torpedo tubes.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
The mine-sweeper has the appearance of a small conventional boat, but with room for a crew of several men. It is hosted in a hangar together with examples of sea mines – apparently US models.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
The two aircraft are a SAAB Draken of Denmark and a MiG-23 of Poland. They represent some of the most advanced aircraft of these opposing countries at the height of the Cold War. Both exemplars are well preserved inside hangars protecting them from the weather and sunlight.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Another interesting sight is a reconstruction of a civil defense bunker, with much original material, including packs of ration cards already prepared for the population in case of war. In an adjoining room you can see a reconstruction of a bunkerized broadcasting studio – the national TV channels were tasked with providing updates to the population in case of an attack, hence a similar facility was prepared in the basement of the TV headquarters.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Close to the ticket office, you are offered a very well-designed exhibition tracing the timeline of the Cold War, with some clever text and many pictures, some of which rather uncommon – really worth spending some time on, before or after visiting the museum.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
There is also room for temporary exhibitions, in a hangar which includes an original section of the Berlin Wall.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
The building of the ticket office is also interesting. From the back of it you can get access to a smaller exhibition about travels to the DDR (the native acronym for the GDR), with everyday items, old Interflug boarding passes, and some incredible postcards – apparently, modern Soviet-style housing and heads of Marx were the items that GDR postcard-designers liked most… Fragments of the Berlin Wall are also on display.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Ahead of the entrance there is an old and pretty big hammer and sickle, originally from a Soviet ship. The commander threw it outboard when the Soviet Union officially ceased to exist. It was collected by a Danish sailor and ended up here. Nearby you can see a reconstruction of the Berlin Wall, and an original Trabant crossing it.
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Koldkrigsmuseum Langelandsfort, Bagenkop – Cold War Museum Denmark – Cannon Battery, Bunker and Operations Center
Getting there and moving around
The Cold War Museum Langelandsfort is located close to the southern tip of the island of Langeland, which is connected with bridges to the major island of Fyn, where Odense can be found about 1-hour north of the museum by car. You can move around the museum on your own, there are several panels with explanations. Most panels have at least a quick translation in German and English. All presentations are very well designed and maintained. Visiting may take at least 2 hours for an interested subject, and even more especially if you are taking pictures. Free parking ahead of the entrance, and picnic area nearby. Official website here.
Aalborg Defense and Garrison Museum
This museum was opened in the year 2002, in the hangar of a seaplane base constituted by the occupying German forces in 1940. The base was potentiated in more instances during WWII, and a half-interred command bunker similar to those of the Atlantic Wall was added.
Aalborg has been a military post for centuries, therefore the museum is centered on several aspects of war and military life. Of course, the majority of the artifacts on display date from WWII and the Cold War period.
The hangar hosts a small collection of aircraft, which capture your sight when you get in. Most notably, there are a venerable F-84, an F-86, and somewhat older T-33 and Gloster Meteor.
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Close by, you can find a more modern F-104. Jet engines of American make from some of these aircraft have been taken out of the airframes, and put on display separately.
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Again in the center of the hangar you can see a Hawk missile system, including the missile battery and movable power and control trucks. Also anti-aircraft guns and searchlights from various ages are on display.
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Items from WWII include a nice exhibition of locally-collected gear used by the Danish resistance movements. Supplied by the Allies from the air, they managed to build several types of bombs, mines, and so on, made to disturb and damage enemy transports, or to kill enemy staff in well programmed para-military actions.
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Memorabilia include the engine of an US B-17 bomber, sadly downed over the Baltic during the crew’s final mission, the original Luftwaffe eagle once standing on the building of the local German air command, and a Nazi flag weaving on some public building in town in the years of the German occupation.
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
There are also many photographs from the area from the war years, and reproductions of German maps and local newspapers. The latter tell about relevant facts taking place during the war, as reported by the local media. There are also diplomas of merit issued by the US and Britain in favor of a local citizen, member of the resistance.
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
A part of the exhibition is about civil defense. Similar to the US, Britain and other countries during the Cold War, this service was activated to prepare the population to a nuclear war scenario, and to provide shelter and a chance of survival, by means of bunkers and deposits of supplies. Here you can see a reconstruction of such a shelter, and items which used to be stored in preparation for survival in the nuclear winter.
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
There is also a nice collection of light weapons from local firms, uniforms and communication rigs.
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
A few uniforms and technical gear from the current supplies of the Danish military are on display as well.
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
In a room to the side of the central hall, you can find uniforms dating from WWII, including German stuff. The story of a Dane coming to the US and fighting for the US Army is also told in a corner, also through some memorabilia.
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
On an elevated platform you can find an exhibition about the Cold War. This is mostly made by panels retracing the history of that confrontation over the decades. Among the most peculiar items on display, a copy of the invasion plan studied by the Soviet in case of a sudden war with the West. That plan included the rapid conquer of Denmark, due to its strategically relevant position. A copy of a Soviet-made map of Aalborg in Russian, needed in case of war, is another example of the unique artifacts on display.
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
This special Cold War exhibition is completed with a set of field and anti-aircraft weapons from various ages of the confrontation.
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Other rooms around the main hall display modern uniforms, NATO-related material, military supply from various ages and even a throne used by the Queen of Denmark on an official visit.
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
In an adjoining smaller hangar you can find a rich collection of trucks and weapons with various – not only military – functions.
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Outside, a highlight of the museum is the former air command bunker built by the Germans. This has been filled with memorabilia from the Nazi occupation period. An unusual and little-known story is told here, about the German refugees from Eastern Prussia, a region loosely coincident today with the part of Russia around the town of Kaliningrad (ex-Konigsberg). This area used to be part of Germany since before WWI, and it remained under the Weimar Republic, even though separated from German mainland. Neighboring Lithuania was annexed to the Third Reich before WWII – similar to Sudetenland – on account of the proximity to that region, with the excuse of a significant German group living in Lithuania. In 1939 the Germans re-gained control over northern Poland, and the two regions of Prussia were reunited in the Reich.
Following the victories of the Soviets in 1944 and the ensuing landslide-march towards Berlin, Eastern Prussia was lost to the enemy. Refugees escaped to mainland Germany, and the administration of the Reich sent these folks in several areas relatively far from the front – including a significant number to occupied Denmark, and especially in the hangars in Aalborg, where the museum is today. So the hangar acted as a hospitality center for the refugees. This was something strange though, for the refugees were not local nationals, but instead enemies. This led to a controversy soon after, when the war ended. In the event, most of the refugees returned to their land of origin, only to find it permanently occupied by the Soviets. Some handmade artifacts of these German refugees can be seen on display in the bunker.
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Finally, a very good collection of tanks, field guns and movable howitzers from various countries including the Eastern Bloc and mainly from the various ages of the Cold War can be admired on the museum apron. For the most part, these are reportedly kept in working condition.
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Aalborg Forsvars- og Garnisonsmuseum – Defense and Garrison Museum – WWII and Cold War Weapons – Denmark
Getting there and moving around
The museum is located close to central Aalborg, on the waterfront. You can visit it totally on your own. Some of the exhibitions are described in more languages, but some parts are in Danish only. Nonetheless, the visit can be very rewarding for experts and for the kids as well, thanks to the chance to touch many of the artifacts on display. A two-hours time may be enough for having a look, more time is required for a more in-depth visit or if you want to take pictures.
Convenient parking just ahead of the entrance. Website with full information here.
Danish Museum of Flight
This fantastic collection of aircraft can be found next to Stauning Airport, on the west coast of Jutland, at the level of the Ringkobing firth. This is by far the largest aircraft collection in Denmark, and the reference air museum in this country.
The exhibition is well designed and rich, and it covers both the civil and military branches of aviation. Furthermore, a good half of the aircraft appear in fully airworthy conditions.
There are three thematic hangars. In the first you can find civilian aircraft from various ages, smaller sport aircraft and military trainers mainly from the inter-war period or the late 1940s. Some of them appear airworthy.
Most notably, there is the front part of the fuselage of a Douglas DC-7, formerly in service with the national carrier SAS, still on business today. The cockpit and the crew compartment are well preserved. The analog instrumentation adopted on this plane, which dates from 1957 and represents the last and most advanced of the Douglas propliners, is abundant and remarkably sophisticated.
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Another unique aircraft on display is an Aerospatiale Corvette, an executive jet by the same French airframer who participated in the Concorde project. You can also board the plane.
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Similarly rare today is the DeHavilland Dove, a British-made short range liner from the early Cold War period. Similar aircraft, cheap to operate, went on flying well into the 1970s in many countries. Here you see an exemplar in the colors of Cimber Air.
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Among the trainers, you can find a DeHavilland Tiger Moth and a Chipmunk from the same manufacturer. Less common aircraft include a DeHavilland Hornet Moth, which apparently spent most of its flying time in Kuala Lumpur, and a nice Bucker Bestmann, a German trainer adopted and license-built also in Sweden.
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Despite never adopted by the Danish military, a V-tailed Fouga Magister French trainer apparently found its way to here. It was reportedly flown in private hands by a Danish professor, before being donated to the museum.
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
In the first hangar are also examples of Danish aircraft production, including the reconstruction of an early prototype by a local pioneer. Propellers and dismounted engines and systems, likely used for training purposes in the past, are an interesting part of the exhibition too.
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
A huge collection of model engines, some air traffic control consoles and airport trucks complete the exhibition in the first hangar.
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
The second hangar is mainly devoted to aircraft manufactured in Denmark. Most notably, the Skandinavisk Aero Industri – abbreviated in SAI – specialized in trainers and small transport in the inter-war and WWII period, and knew a good national and local international success between 1937 and 1954, when it disappeared – and with it basically also the Danish aeronautical industry.
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Some of the aircraft on display are unique exemplars, the last witnesses of this interesting story. Not all aircraft here are from this manufacturer though – an ubiquitous Piper Cub in its distinctive yellow colorway can be found as well, together with a Supermarine Spitfire. Also here, most aircraft appear to be in airworthy conditions.
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
In the last hangar, which despite being the largest one, is the most crumpled, you can find military aircraft retracing the history of the Danish Air Force supply. The aircraft here are all from the Cold War period, hence giving to this hangar a historical connotation. This part of the exhibition is also particularly nice, as you can walk close and beneath the aircraft, an ideal setting for getting pictures of smaller particular features.
The variety of present aircraft is very interesting, and reflects the close bounds of Denmark with the US and Britain. Aircraft from the early Cold War include Lockheed T-33, a North American F-86, and two different versions of the Republic F-84.
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
An exemplar of the latter is supplemented with JATO – Jet Assisted Take-Off – bottles under the fuselage. The mountings of the underwing rockets on the F-84 and of the belly rockets on the F-86 are really unique examples of Cold War technology!
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
A big Consolidated Catalina amphibious aircraft towers on all others in the hall, while a Douglas C-47 transport in excellent conditions is preserved in a corner, with an interesting ski system mounted on the landing gears.
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
British aircraft from the same early era include a Gloster Meteor and what appears to be a pretty rare Fairey Firefly. Another US design is a T-6 trainer, to be found under the wing of the Catalina.
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
More recent designs still from the Cold War include a Lockheed F-104, a British Hawker Hunter and a Swedish SAAB Draken.
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Especially the configuration of the latter – both the general configuration and the arrangement of the landing gear and wing pylons – is really unique, reflecting a different yet interesting school of aircraft design.
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Rather uncommon out of the US, a North American F-100 Super Sabre is also on display, with a foldable Pitot boom.
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Finally there are a Hawk missile battery, a movable command center and service trucks.
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Modern aircraft are represented here by an F-16. There are also two helicopters of US make, closing the collection.
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Danmarks Flymuseum Denmark Museum of Flight Jutland Skjern Cold War Planes
Getting there and moving around
The museum is located between Stauning and Velling, two small villages on the inner coast of the Ringkobing firth, western Jutland. The facility is modern, with a large free parking and a picnic area. It is located on the border of a local airport, immersed in nature – a very pleasant location. The museum requires about 2 hours for an interested subject, 2.5 if you want to take pictures. Website with full information here.
Despite their great destructive potential and strategic relevance, nuclear assets were deployed far from the ‘centers of power’ in Moscow and Washington by both the USSR and the US. As the front of the Cold War was especially ‘hot’ along the border between the Warsaw Pact and NATO Countries in central Europe, large arsenals of nuclear weapons were deployed to the area, on both sides of the Iron Curtain, and in several instances over time.
On the western side this was not hidden and led often times to protests in Countries like the UK, West Germany and Italy, so that the history of the presence of a nuclear arsenal in those Countries can be traced with some accuracy, albeit not easily. Conversely, much less is known about the deployment of Soviet nuclear arsenals over the territory of the former Eastern Bloc, making this segment of Cold War history especially mysterious.
History – in brief
In this Cold War scenario, the German Democratic Republic (GDR, or DDR in German) received special consideration by the Soviets. Thanks to its advanced position in Europe and the local, much trusted ‘hardcore’ communist regime, the USSR planned the deployment of early strategic missiles – SS-3 Shyster and SS-4 Sandal – starting already in the late Fifties, the years of Khrushchev. Traces of an actual deployment exist in Vogelsang and Furstenberg, about one hour driving north of Berlin (see this post about Vogelsang, and this about the mysterious deployment of missiles in the area).
Later on, in the early years of Brezhnev as leader of the USSR, it was decided that for a prompter and more flexible response in case of an attack, nuclear warfare especially for tactical use should be deployed outside of the USSR borders, to Countries in close proximity with the West. On the other hand, strategic warheads and missile systems could be withdrawn to within the USSR, as more technologically advanced intercontinental ballistic missiles had become available, making a hit of a foreign objective possible even from deep inside the Soviet borders.
Consequently, deployment of air launched nuclear warfare started in selected Soviet airbases, which were really not in any shortage in the GDR – considering both the national air force (NVA) and the Soviet aviation, the DDR used to be one of the world’s top countries in terms of airbases per square mile, or per resident. You can see several posts on former Soviet bases in the GDR on this website (look here, here and here).
For military corps not operating from airbases – especially missile brigades – the headquarters of the Red Army in Moscow deemed necessary the deployment to the GDR of nuclear warheads for tactical or theater missiles.
Two depots were built anew in dedicated installations specifically for hosting such warheads. One was in Stolzenhain, codenamed ‘Objekt 4000’ and sometimes referred to as Linda (the name of a village nearby), close to the highly-militarized area of Juterbog (see this post) and Kloster Zinna, about one hour driving south of Berlin. The other was again close to Furstenberg, and named Lychen-2, and codenamed ‘Objekt 4001’.
The nuclear bunkers in Stolzenhain and Lychen were payed for by the GDR – through a governmental agreement with the USSR – which always detained official property of the facilities, and were built by German workers, around the year 1967. Once ready, in 1968 the bunkers were handed over to Soviet staff, and the corresponding areas totally closed to non-Soviets. The bunkers, as other similar facilities in other Countries of the Warsaw Pact, communicated directly with Moscow, as similarly to the US, only the top of the command chain could authorize the use of nuclear forces.
The facilities were kept running until the end of the Cold War. Control was officially given back to the agonizing GDR in 1990, the Soviets having transferred all valuable material to the (agonizing) USSR.
Here the story splits for the two installations. While the Lychen bunker has been selected for interment, the installation largely being demolished around 2015, forgotten and reclaimed by nature, as of 2019 the Stolzenhain bunker is in a far better condition, apparently in private hands, and albeit plans for it are sadly similar to Lychen, it may be still in time to be turned into a unique, world-class museum.
About this post
This post covers both Lychen-2 and Stolzenhain bunkers. The former was explored in the summer of 2019. The latter was explored a first time in 2019, and in a second instance with the guidance of its owner Manfred van Heerde and the nuclear scientist and historian Reiner Helling in 2021. As the Stolzenhain installation is still in a relatively good shape, you can also get an understanding of what the inside of these bunkers looks like, their design and specific features. Pictures of this installation from above can be found in another chapter (see here).
The Stolzenhain bunker, aka ‘bunker Linda’, due to the name of a nearby village, is a perfect specimen of this type of construction (codenamed Monolith-type – see also this post for similar sites in nearby Poland, including one open as a museum). It is composed of two adjoining sub-parts – an area with larger barracks and ‘soft’ constructions, and a larger area were two twin bunkers for warheads are located, together with smaller service buildings and smaller service quarters for the troops. The two areas are arranged along a north-south direction, with the bunker area north of the barracks area.
Today, access to the barracks area is mostly interdicted – you may venture in by foot, but there is a gate which does not allow getting in by car, despite the relatively good condition of the road. The premises are in private hands, and some demolition/reconstruction/conversion works are being carried out here. There is also a service building, looking like a private residence, built in recent times.
Main Gate and Outer Buildings
The main access road features typical prefabricated concrete slabs, found in most Soviet/communist installations everywhere in eastern Europe. Halfway between the external gate and the barracks area, traces of an external wall can be found, with a couple of ‘welcome stones’.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
A closer look to the slabs reveal a rather poor quality material used for manufacture. Writings are excerpts of the Soviet constitution, presented as mottoes in Russian, with some communist symbols.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
The barracks and some softer constructions date from the Seventies – the frieze on the sidewalls of the buildings tells it quite clearly. The area is protected by a concrete wall, bearing a probably original greenish camouflage.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
In the years of operation, there used to be four large apartment blocks aligned in a row, just ahead of the entrance to the area of the barracks. These buildings were for the officials and their families. While still inside the external fence of the base, these apartments allowed more privacy and convenience, forming a de facto little Soviet village in the GDR, segregated from the surrounding German community. This housing has been completely demolished today. However, some trace of correlated ‘civilian’ facilities can be found to the south of the barracks area.
In particular, a swimming pool was built at a certain point in the history of the base, and it is still in a relatively good shape. Changing rooms for men and women are still there. A tall springboard and starting blocks still face the pool, which is apparently watertight, despite the greenish water not being really attractive!
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
The pool features an outer fence, with a service gate bearing a characteristic Soviet ‘diverging rays’ motif.
Another facility put specifically for comfort in this area is a sauna/bathing house, a widespread Russian tradition. The sauna building in Stolzenhain features several smaller adjoining rooms, with pools, sauna/Turkish bath areas, a central heater, as well as more general purpose sitting rooms with fireplaces. A video studio was also featured in this multi-functional building.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
An interesting specimen of Soviet naive art, some frescoes adorn the walls of some of the rooms, with subjects ranging from sea life to women performing ‘spa activities’.
Still outside of the innermost military part, yet inside the external fence of the base, a training ground is to be found to the east of the military area, not too far from the spa building. A walk in the trees along the inner perimeter of the wall of the base is needed to reach this part. A control building with an observation post on top features plenty of instructions for tasks to be performed in a training exercise – in Russian!
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Close by, a shooting range for light weapons (rifles, guns) can be found, again with precise indications on the distances to be taken from the target, marked by colored lines on the ground.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Back to the gate to the military barracks area and stepping inside, among the few surviving buildings is a former gym. Despite used as a storage today, the larger hall is clearly a former volleyball/basketball court. A referee chair is still hanging from the sidewall, and sport-themed frescoes decorate the walls.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Former hangars for trucks or technical vehicles can be found in the eastern part of the former barracks area, similar to traces of a fuel pump. As said, most of the former buildings here are now gone.
A special feature in the barracks area is a manhole with traces of a set of cables, pointing towards the highly secretive and guarded bunker area. Communication is of paramount importance for military practice. In the case of nuclear depots so far away from Moscow, a cable connection was implemented not to loose contact under any circumstances between the Soviet headquarters and this peripheral, yet so valuable facility. Pressurized cables were used, such that when an attempt to severe or intercept cable signals was carried out by the enemy cutting the cable, the external jacket was pierced, a loss of pressure was sensed, and an alarm was triggered immediately. Similarly, in the case of an accidental degeneration of the ground where the cable ran, the pressurized jacket was pierced triggering an alarm, allowing the technicians to repair the cable and restore contact.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
An old and forgotten Soviet standard service container, typically transported by truck, can be found close to the manhole totally invaded by vegetation. From here, a view to the perimeter concrete wall around the innermost part of the site can be easily seen, with clear traces of camo paint.
Bunker Area
The area of the bunkers is fortified with a concrete wall with barbed wire on top running along all its perimeter. The size of the bunker is immediately apparent from above – you can look at some aerial pictures from a dedicated flight over the area, see this report. There is a gate connecting it to the barracks area. The only other gate to the bunker area, located north on the other end of the complex, opposite to the first gate, is partially obstructed.
For its entire length, the external wall of the bunker area is almost perfectly preserved, and abundant traces of camouflage can be easily spotted all along.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Inside the wall, you soon find a fence of barbed wire with concrete posts, again standard for Soviet military installations. Some sections of the barbed wire are very well preserved, albeit rusty. The overgrown vegetation looks like the only difference between now and the years when the bunker was in operation!
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Inside the barbed wire fence, you find traces of an exceptional system of trenches and turrets, which should have granted protection to the innermost part of the complex – the storage bunkers. There are turrets of many kinds, including one which looks like the dome of a tank, re-used for the purpose – a feature also of the Atlantic Wall and the Salpa Line (see here). Such a degree of protection is extraordinary also with respect to other military installations. Abundant traces of barbed wire-holders along the tranches can be easily spotted. The site was clearly considered as an objective of special value, to be seriously defended in case of an attack from the West.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Close to the center of the large fenced area, you soon reach the bunkers (there are a western and an eastern bunker, described below), which despite being mostly underground, feature a small mound on top which allow spotting them from the distance.
Western Nuclear Storage Bunker
Access for the warheads is at the level of the ground. There are two large tight doors corresponding to the two ends of the main hall of the bunker. Below you can see a 3D sketch of the bunker, from a placard found close to Objekt 4001 (the Lychen bunker), describing the inner layout.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
By one of the entrances to the bunker is a small loading/unloading platform for two trucks. The apron connecting the platform to the bunker door used to be covered by prefabricated roof tiles – rich in asbestos – and covered with artificial vegetation, of which some traces remain.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
The area is overlooked by a firing turret, seating above the front of the bunker.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
The external tight door gives access to an airlock, a small square compartment closed to the opposite end by another identical door. This is explained in view of the need to protect the innermost part of the bunker from attacks by means of high-yield weapons. A similar architecture can be found in a Soviet nuclear depot in Szprotawa, Poland (see this post).
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
From the airlock you get access to a suspended platform, from which you can appreciate the storage facilities of the bunker. There is a main hall, where the warheads were lowered by means of a motorized crane from the suspended platform down to the underground level. From there, they were moved to one of the four long storage chamber, all accessible on the same side of the main hall.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Temperature and humidity of the main hall and storage rooms were perfectly controlled. Ventilation pipes and an impressive array of hangers for heat exchangers can be seen in the main hall.
Access to the underground floor from the suspended platform is only possible with a ladder, passing through a narrow hatch – as usual, it’s hard to understand why the Russians (or the Germans in this case) built passages so narrow and uncomfortable, considering they are not among the shortest human types on Earth… – see this post for another brilliant example…
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
The storage rooms are very long, and traces of strongpoints for anchoring the warheads safely on ground can be seen surfacing on the floor. The doors between the main hall and the storage rooms, where present, don’t appear to be tight. Most writing is in Russian, but some labels are in German. This can be explained with the bunkers being realized by GDR personnel, upon requirements by the Soviets.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
The blue cabinets and piping in the pictures are part of the warhead monitoring plant. Each warhead – the actual number is part of the mystery, but there used to be several tens of them in each of the two bunkers on site! – was kept in a sealed shell, to keep sensitive nuclear material precisely in the required climatic condition. Constantly checking the condition of the warheads was part of the duty of the bunker personnel. For the task, each warhead was moved to the hall and connected to the piping, to take measurements of temperature, pressure, atmospheric composition and similar parameters. In case of an anomaly, the warhead was resent to a major technical facility in the USSR (in particular, in Belarus for the Stolzenhain warheads), for fixing.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
To the opposite end of the main hall from the entrance is another identical entrance, with a suspended platform and an airlock. In the case of this bunker, the most external tight door to the far end has been taken off its hinges and put on the floor, whereas that between the airlock and the main hall has been permanently shut.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Back to the main hall, on the opposite side of the storage rooms on the underground floor, it is possible to access a service area, with several smaller rooms connected by a narrow corridor. The function of each room is not difficult to argue, and looking at some details it is possible to make some easy hypothesis.
Electric actuation for the ventilation system may be the function of a first room.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
What looks like a kind of hydraulic pumping/water filtering system is located next door, split over three adjoining rooms. The system has been pulled down to the ground, but it is not severely damaged.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Next you can find a reservoir for water, placed in a room close by, painted in green and highly damaged.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Going further along the corridor, you can find a toilet. Poor drainage – don’t forget this floor is entirely underground – meant that the troops spending their shift in the bunker did not use the toilet much, and climbed out of the bunker for their necessities.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Further on, you can see a room which is probably a sleeping room for the troops stationed inside the bunker. A heat exchanger and traces of a sink on the wall may support this theory. Air ducts leading to the surface can be found in recesses close by.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
A room with traces of electric material and an electric panel outside may have been an electric power control facility, maybe even a cable communication facility.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Further on, you get access to a power station, where clear traces of a diesel system for supplying electric energy to the bunker can be found. A big reservoir painted in yellow may have been the diesel fuel tank. A stator of an electrical generator can be seen on the floor. Parts of a diesel engine can be found, and what may have been tanks for lubrication oil can be seen on the walls. As it often happens with defense bunkers – even for larger defensive forts since before WWII – the installation was usually powered from the outside grid in peacetime, but it had to be capable of staying active in case of an attack and failure of the external grid. Hence backup generators can be found in most underground bunkers since the 20th century. Especially in the atomic age, when a nuclear attack on the installation was considered a potential scenario, a stress was put on this type of countermeasure.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
The diesel engine is earmarked with a Soviet label, witnessing its origin! Similarly, electric motors and components scattered on ground – part of the ventilation system – are ‘made in CCCP’.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Traces of lubrication oil can be found on panels on the floor. Between the power station and the main corridor, a side door gives access to a ladder going up. This was likely the ‘normal’ pedestrian access to the bunker.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
A few more service rooms can be accessed from the main underground hall, through doors on its short sides, under the suspended balconies. There were mechanical workshops, but also facilities for dealing with contaminated or poisonous material, in particular that of nuclear warhead triggers. This is further witnessed by traces in the eastern bunker (see below), and by special valves installed on the ventilation system in those rooms.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Getting out and climbing on top of the bunker, it is possible to spot several air hatches for the ventilation system (including that of the power station), as well as a metal cabin covering the ladder giving access to the service rooms in the bunker – the ‘normal’ pedestrian access cited above.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
A loading/unloading facility, larger than the one on the other side and with platforms of different sizes numbered from 1 to 4, can found also by the other gate of the bunker, which as noted is sealed.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Also here, an asbestos-rich roof can be found in the truck docking area, but there is no superstructure covering the apron leading to the door of the bunker.
Eastern Nuclear Storage Bunker
A large concrete road forms an ‘8’ around the two nuclear storage bunkers. The bunkers are identical, but for protection the eastern bunker was built tilted by 90° with respect to the western one – this way, it was not possible with a single attacking wave to hit the entrance gates of both bunkers.
The gate on one end of the bunker has been partially interred. The large apron leading to the truck loading facility is not covered. Traces of a fire emergency system can be found. Many hatches can be seen on top of the bunker, not all well conserved. One of them carries the curious inscription ‘Baku’, the capital city of the former Soviet Republic of Azerbaijan, written in Russian – as elsewhere in Soviet military installations, maybe the troops stationed here marked the place with the name of their city of origin (see this post).
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
The bunker is slightly better preserved than the western one. The motorized cranes can be see on top of the main hall – nominal capacity is 32 tonnes.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
The array of heat exchangers for temperature control on the side of the hall is clearly visible. A pressure gauge dates back to 1967. The storage rooms keep trace of a ventilation system, yet today humidity is damaging the inside of the bunker.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
An exploration of the service rooms, accessible from the main hall opposite the storage rooms, reveals a water pumping/filtering system and a water tank in their original positions.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
The toilet, complete of toilet brush, is placed on top of a platform – the composition is so perfect that it looks like a weird ‘monument to a toilet’!
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Here the air pumps are better preserved than the in the western bunker, with fans still in place and air ducts pointing upwards to the roof of the installation.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
A room possibly for the shift on duty, with a heat exchanger and sink, features a supporting structure possibly made for beds. The electric panels in the adjoining room confirm its function as a control center for electric supply.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Before reaching the power station at the far end of the service corridor, a side passage gives access to a room with bulky air filters. This looks very similar to the filtering system of other military installations elsewhere – see this post for instance. Big greenish canisters are still there with writings in Russian. These were needed for survival inside the bunker, in case of an attack with nuclear or chemical weapons, which would have made outer air poisonous.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
The area of the power station is similar to that in the other bunker, except the diesel engine, which is somewhat in a better shape. A big radiator, looking from an old-style truck, has been put alongside a large fan. More radiators can be found in the room, which is also stuffed with air ducts in a bad shape and tanks.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
The smaller service rooms accessible from below the suspended platforms are basically empty, except one with a transparent case, likely for manipulating poisonous material. This was required for older-style nuclear bomb triggers. Soon after the bunker was built, triggers were redesigned, and this room with its facilities was no longer needed. Holes for thick rubber gloves, and even remains of the gloves themselves, can be clearly spotted. The ventilation system in this room features particular valves.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Outside on the far end you can find a docking station for trucks. This has been used more recently as a deposit for asbestos tiles, and venturing should be avoided. On top of the bunker, the metal case with the ladder descending into the underground part, as well as the ladder itself, have been demolished to hamper access.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Other Buildings
In the premises of the fortified bunker area are also other smaller service buildings. Their function is hard to guess at a first glance. Most of them display writings in Cyrillic.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
One of these smaller constructions contained ‘poisoning charges’. These were special ‘weapons’ which could be put on the shell of the warhead and, when triggered, were capable of making it totally inert and ineffective. This was an extreme emergency move, in case a capture of the nuclear warheads was deemed possible due to enemy action. The name of the person responsible for this special action is painted on the gate of the storage.
A low-profile building with a curved roof, not far from a softer construction dating to the 1970s, looks larger and with a mainly pedestrian access. This was a storage for light weapons.
Turrets and defensive buildings are abundant, and all are connected by concrete roads which look pretty good in spite of the decades of disrepair.
Closer to the wall of the inner part, hatches giving access to underground bunkers can be spotted, when exploring with accuracy. These underground bunkers, service rooms or resting rooms for the many troops constantly guarding this installation, are of different size.
A first one, rather convenient, is made of concrete. Nothing remains inside, except traces of a Soviet-style electric plant, made with a questionable safety standard…
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Another is made of prefabricated corrugated tubes, with a sealed entry hatch. This is rather well-preserved, with berths, a stove and a small living area, all accessible via a corridor from the outside.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Finally, close to the barracks area described above, but still inside of the innermost part of the installation, is the access to another underground bunker. Here many smaller rooms, including communication rooms of great importance for triggering actions in the bunker area, are located along a straight tunnel. In the origin, the tunnel went all the way to the barracks area, passing under the fences and wall separating it from the innermost bunker area. The outer entrance was clearly deceived for improved safety, and today it is totally gone.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Stolzenhain Objekt 4000 East Germany
Getting there & moving around
As the place is private property, no detail will be provided concerning access. Moving around the area is dangerous, due to difficulty of access, proximity with local activities and residents, bad phone signal for emergency, plus tons of rusting material, barbed wire, pits, pierces in the ground, asbestos, slippery soil, etc. scattered over the area. The bunkers are wet and completely dark inside. Obviously, the fact that nuclear ordnance and diesel fuel used to be stored there does not help making the place healthier.
That said, the place is in a fairly good shape for the age and vicissitudes, and hopefully it will be at least partly restored and opened to the public in the future, once suitably sanitized.
If you are interested in a legit visit of a Monolith-type bunker, you may consider going to Podborsko in nearby Poland. See this post for pictures and info.
Objekt 4001 – Lychen-2
The Lychen bunker was built on a design basically identical to that of Objekt 4000. The only difference was the orientation, this time along an almost east-western direction, with the ‘softer part’ towards the east and the bunkers to the west.
Historical pictures – actually, even from the early 2010s, when the installation was still mostly untouched – show a very peculiar monument with the head of Lenin and other emblems, marking the entrance to the bunker area.
Today this installation has been completely wiped out. All soft constructions have been demolished, and the ground has been leveled – there is basically no trace of them at all. The monument is gone too. The turrets and protection systems have totally disappeared, similarly to the truck loading and unloading stations.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Even more surprising is the great care taken to make all walls and fences disappear completely. There are no walls, nor barbed wire fences. What you can still – barely – spot is where the external wall and inner fence used to be, as vegetation has not yet covered the perimeter.
Looking with great care, and knowing where it used to be, if you are lucky you may find scant remains of barbed wire on the ground.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Instead, the concrete access road and inner service roads are still there. In the middle of the ‘8’ shaped road around the two bunkers, a placard with information has been put by the regional administration. The placard concludes saying that being there should ‘provoke thoughts’ – for instance, why wasn’t this installation preserved somehow for posterity, instead of leaving it slip into oblivion?
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
The bunkers, made to withstand a nuclear blast, are too expensive to be demolished. However, the doors have been completely sealed and covered with land and concrete. The camouflaged concrete fronts of the bunkers are the most visible trace of Objekt 4001.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
On top of the bunkers some metal ventilation hatches appear to have resisted the demolition works. More interestingly, the metal cabin with the ladder for pedestrian access has been demolished, and access blocked with a concrete slab in both bunkers. In the southern bunker the concrete slab has been broken recently, and maybe a difficult access re-opened. However, this is not practicable if you are traveling alone – and is extremely dangerous in all other cases.
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Abandoned Soviet Nuclear Warhead Bunker Lychen-2 Objekt 4001 East Germany
Getting there & moving around
Going to Lychen-2 is easy from the small nice town of Himmelpfort, about 1 hour driving north of downtown Berlin, in the heart of the natural preserve and nice tourist district of Oberhavel.
An access road is marked on the map attached to this post. You may see the Lychen-2 bunker from the satellite map, just north of the road, at the level of the launch platform for the SS-4 Sandal marked as ‘Furstenberg’. The latter post lists also several other Soviet-related destinations in the area, which may be more rewarding than Lychen-2. The (once) prominent secret Soviet base of Vogelsang (see this post) is also a highlight of the area, despite significant demolition works having taken place also recently, pushing also that part of the story towards oblivion.
Todays Czech Republic was born from the peaceful split of Czechoslovakia in 1993. The latter was founded after WWI from the ashes of the Austrian Empire. Its well-developed industrial plants and proximity with Germany made it a primary target in the expansion phase of the Third Reich – in fact, after the Munich Agreement a large part of the territory of Czechoslovakia was annexed to Germany in 1938.
Towards the end of WWII, Czechoslovakia was conquered by both the Soviet Red Army and US troops. As a result of diplomacy moves soon after WWII, a new free republic was founded. Unfortunately, as soon as 1948 the local Communist Party conquered power with a coup d’état, turning this Country into a Soviet satellite.
From a military viewpoint, this period saw the adoption of Soviet supplies and organization standards. Czechoslovakia shared a border with the Ukraine, hence with the USSR. Yet the stability and reliability – from a USSR standpoint – of the communist regime in Czechoslovakia, differently from other countries under soviet influence – like Poland – meant a certain level of autonomy in the setup of the armed forces, which were not massively present over the territory of the country during the 1950s and 1960s, until 1968.
The Prague Spring, triggered by the announced reforms of the leader of the Czechoslovakian Communist Party Alexander Dubcek, brought Brezhnev-led USSR to fear a loss of control of that industrialized region, creating a dangerous diplomatic affair and a bad example for other Soviet-controlled countries. The Soviet invasion of Czechoslovakia, codenamed ‘Operation Danube’, was launched in August 1968.
The operation led to the successful occupation of the country by more than 250’000 troops from the USSR, Poland, Hungary and Bulgaria. Since that time, and until 1989 with the overthrowing of the communist regime in Czechoslovakia, the Red Army was present over the territory of this country, taking control and developing bases formerly managed by the local armed forces. The two largest airbases in the country, Ralsko and Milovice, both less than 40 miles away from Prague, were among the installations taken over by the USSR.
Despite this, the already developed Czechoslovakian Army maintained a high standard of proficiency and supply, thanks also to the local production of top-quality weapons. The local army was responsible of the Czechoslovakian sector of the anti-aircraft barrier of the western border of the Eastern Bloc, which was built in the 1980s based on advanced Soviet material, namely the SA-5 Gammon surface-to-air missiles. Furthermore, the city of Prague was protected by a network of anti-aircraft missile batteries based on the SA-3 Goa. Anti-atomic bunkers were built both in Prague for civil defense (see this post), and in more remote areas of the country for the government and for the military chain of command (see this post).
After the end of communism both in Czechoslovakia and the USSR, the departure of the newborn Czech Republic from the influence of Russia, and the reconfiguration of the Czech Army in view of the new geopolitical situation in the 1990s, the majority of the former military installations were shut down and abandoned – a scenario totally similar to all former Soviet-controlled countries, which had known an exponential increase in the military presence over the years of the Cold War, which could not be supported any more by the economies of the new independent Countries (see for instance here or here). Furthermore, like in every other country in the Eastern Bloc, the retreating staff of the Red Army and their families left extensive ghost towns (see for instance this post).
Today, after substantial demolition works and years spent under the action of the elements, a few traces remain of these witnesses of the Cold War. Yet as of 2018 some notable relics of this bygone era could still be found, conveniently reachable from Prague.
This post covers Milovice Red Army airbase, possibly better known through the name of the local Soviet town of Bozi Dar, two abandoned anti-aircraft missile batteries for the protection of Prague – Tocna and Miskovice – and an anti-aircraft battery in the vicinity of Dobris, south of Prague, once a focal point of the anti-aircraft defense of the European border of the Eastern Bloc, against NATO forces. Photographs were taken in summer 2018.
Map
The following map is very basic, and helps just to highlight the location of the four subjects of this chapter in the Prague region. The reason for not being more explicit is that the Dobris and Milovice bases are possibly not publicly accessible. Concerning Tocna and Miskovice, they are rather small installations, thus not difficult to explore.
As usual with this kind of attraction, approaching by car is the only way possible, due to the remoteness of the locations. Once there, much walking on uneven terrain is required. A tripod and torchlight are highly recommended for indoor exploration, and a cell phone with a GPS may be handy for moving around especially in Dobris and Milovice.
Much before being turned into one of the busiest and largest Soviet airports in central Europe, the airbase in Milovice had experienced a long history of upgrades and developments. Activated in the 1920s on military grounds previously established by the Austrian Emperor, the airfield was actively used by the Luftwaffe in the years of the Nazi occupation and WWII. Later on, it was turned into a major base of the Czechoslovakian Air Force, with MiGs reportedly operating from there as soon as a hardened runway was built in the early 1950s.
Before the Soviet invasion of 1968, the staff of the base used to stay in the village of Milovice, on the southwestern corner of the base.
After the Soviets came to occupy the field, they built from scratch a new, self-sufficient village on the northern side of the base, where Soviet troops and their families could live segregated from the local community. This village was named Bozi Dar. The Soviets developed the facilities of the base enormously, lengthening the runway to almost 8’500 ft, building about 40 reinforced hangars sized for MiG-21 and later MiG-23/27, and more than 25 open-air landing bays for Mi-8 and Mi-24 attack helicopters. The base featured also large open-air aprons for transport aircraft, which reportedly operated many military transport flights to and from the USSR with larger cargo aircraft.
A storage for nuclear warheads for tactical weapons was built to the south of the runway, with two Granit-type concrete containers.
Today this once prominent base is largely abandoned. The village of Bozi Dar, while surprisingly still hosting some form of business in a few surviving smaller buildings, has been almost completely demolished, leaving behind the depressing view of piles of rubble. The village had been ceded to private owners after the withdrawal of the Russian troops, but all proposed restoration ideas have come to nothing, and the by-then rotting buildings have met their fate in the early 2010s.
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
The northwestern corner of the airport is the richest in relics. Approaching the airport from this corner, you first meet significant remains of the double fence once delimiting the perimeter of the airbase.
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
In the same area, it is possible to find the helicopter aprons, almost untouched, with scant yet visible remains of tarmac repairs and typical airport area signs and delimiters painted on the ground.
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
From the same northwestern corner, you may go ahead along a former main road of the base looking east. South of the road you may soon spot the reinforced aircraft shelters built in this part of the airbase.
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
North of the road, you can see two unusual constructions, looking like fortresses of the Atlantic Wall (see here). These are likely part of the reinforced fuel resupply system, a pretty interesting feature of the Misovice airbase. These two reinforced tanks were only a part of a huge network of pipelines and reservoirs, which allowed to store most of the fuel in the vicinity of the base, but not on it, to prevent damages in case of an attack. The two reinforced tanks served only the immediate needs of the aircraft and helicopter fleet, and were designed to withstand a direct hit. This system was put in place by the Czechoslovakians, before the Soviets took over the base. You can spot the reinforced concrete roofs of the two reservoirs emerging from the bushes.
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
The aircraft shelters of this area are all shut. You can walk around, ahead and over them as well – useful for getting a panorama view of the base.
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
From the top of the shelters you can get a view of the open-air apron, and of part of the runway. The airport is today closed, but after the military quit, some ultra-light and RC aircraft activities were carried out from the area.
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Having a close look at the gates of the hangars, you may notice they are made of concrete, really sturdy. Small engines to operate the gates can still be found on the sides of most of these hangars.
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
In the same area you can find a former cabin, probably hosting a power generation unit or something alike.
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Further west, you can find a large unarmored hangar, most likely from older times than 1968. This was probably for maintenance activities. The windows on top of the front façade bear ‘KPSS’ in Cyrillic – this is the Russian acronym for the Communist Party of the Soviet Union. This is probably only part of the original writing. Further right, there is a Czechoslovakian flag, possibly from the later years when the base was operated.
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
The building of the maintenance hangar is composed of a very large main hall, and many smaller rooms all around its perimeter. Electric plugs and switches bear writings in Cyrillic. Today, there is also monumental pile of used tires!
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
On the walls of the main hall there are traces of Soviet murals and Cyrillic inscriptions – most of them are fading.
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
The rooms along the long side of the hangar are mainly heavily damaged and spoiled.
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
The rooms along the short sides are in a bad shape, but something more remains of the original furniture, including some doors and windows. The traces here suggest a more aesthetically pleasant design, not just purely functional – look at the doors and handles, more like those of a canteen than of a mechanic workshop.
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Especially on the eastern side of the hangar, evident remains of a sauna and steam room tend to confirm the function of this area as a recreational facility. Having such facilities close to the runway would not be strange – something similar can be found for instance in Soviet airbase in Wittstock, in the former GDR (see here).
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Leaving the hangar to the north you can find several fences, and leaving the airport you may meet the original double fence with barbed wire – almost untouched from Soviet times, so may you need to walk along it to find a way through!
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
Milovice Abandoned Soviet Base Czech Bozi Dar Ghost
All around the former airport it is possible to find memorabilia and items of interest – mugs, metal pieces, fuel tanks,…
Getting there and moving around
As said, while largely abandoned and mainly unfenced, this area is likely all private property. Moving around does pose some safety issues, for when walking in the bushes and wild grass you may stumble due to abandoned cables or barbed wire at the level of your ankles. The main hangar is not completely rotting, but it is unlikely that it underwent maintenance in recent years. The adjoining small buildings are probably even more dangerous due to risk of collapse.
The village of Bozi Dar does not deserve any attention, unless possibly if you are looking for memorabilia – all buildings are completely gone. The area to the south of the runway where the nuclear facility used to be has been completely demolished. It was reportedly similar to the one preserved in Grossenhain, next to Dresden in the former GDR (see here).
Approaching the airport from the northwest is convenient, for there is chance of parking on the side of the perimeter road, far from the unwanted attention of the locals. There are some local businesses insisting in the last buildings of Bozi Dar, and possibly on the apron, but probably there are not real security issues in entering the base area by foot – there are no barriers nor prohibition signs whatsoever, except for cars. The area of the base is very large – it is an airport after all… – and visiting the northwestern corner may take about 2 hours for a well-trained subject, including time for all the pictures.
Tocna Missile Battery
This is part of the former network of missile batteries for the anti-aircraft defense of Prague, operated by Czechoslovakian 71st Anti-Aircraft Missile Brigade. This ring of protection was established in the 1970s. The base in Tocna was equipped with approximately 12 batteries of 5P71 two-rocket trolleys for the Soviet SA-2 Goa, which in the Soviet classification is known as S-125 Neva (or Petchora for the exported version). This is a popular model from the early 1960s, adopted in many countries outside of the USSR and the Eastern Bloc over the years, and still deployed today. These 24 missiles had a range of roughly 20 miles and a ceiling of more than 50’000 ft. The electronic gears for target acquisition and missile guidance comprised the trailer-mounted P-15 acquisition radar and SNR-125 tracking and guidance radar – all Soviet supply.
Similar to other batteries of the kind, Tocna was divided in two smaller sectors, one with the barracks, parking, living facilities for the troops and fuel storage, and one with reinforced shelters where the missiles were stored, and open-air aprons from where they could be launched. Today, the former sector is part of a local institution, and is separated by a fence from the latter sector, which is totally abandoned and can be accessed.
The missile area is located on top of a small hill. You can get access to the area starting from the gate of the former guard sector (still in use, inaccessible). Taking uphill you will soon meet the old inner wall of the base, which originally divided the guard part from the missile sector. Traces of the camo paint still adorn the concrete wall.
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
The storage facilities are basically four barrel-vaulted halls inside a shelter. The shelter could be accessed from two opposite sides. Each of the four halls could host three twin-rocket trolleys.
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Dark and narrow passages connect the blind ends of the vaulted halls, and give access to a small protection area, where personnel could stay for protection in case the base was attacked from the air.
As you can see from the pictures, unfortunately the halls are in a very bad shape, covered in stupid graffiti and full of rubbish.
On top of the halls, there is a circular wall probably intended for the guidance radar. The missiles could be extracted from the shelters and prepared for launch from predetermined areas of the base.
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
On the western side of the shelter you can find a command building, which today is barely accessible due to piles of rubbish obstructing the door. This is used as sporting ground by paint-ball teams. The emerging foundation wall of the shelter area was covered in camo nets, with some remains still in place today.
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
On the northern end of the base you can find two more smaller shelters, with a large round hole in the roof giving access to where two large antennas can be found still today. These do not look like highly directional radar antennas, but more like usual communication antennas – maybe they are not originally from the time, yet they look unmaintained and rotting. The two shelters were possibly for control/communication trailers, or for power generators. These too are in a very bad shape today.
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Tocna Prague Soviet Missile Radar Base Czech Abandoned
Getting there and moving around
The former base has been split into two parts. One is still run by some public service, and cannot be accessed. The other – the rocket storage part – is totally abandoned and can be accessed without clear restrictions. Some paint-ball activities are (or used to be) carried out around here – but apparently only rarely. During my visit I came across two people walking their dogs, and was alone for the rest of the time.
The place can be easily reached by car in the southeastern outskirts of Prague. Parking is possible right ahead of the gate of the public service in the still active area – there is a large apron where your car will not be noticed.
The site is rather compact, but the terrain is uneven and steep. Anyway, considering also the very bad shape of the installation, visiting will not take more than 45 minutes.
Miskovice Missile Battery
This site is similar to the one in Tocna both in history and function. Unfortunately, possibly due to the immediate vicinity to a nearby village, this site was completely demolished. Only few traces remain of the original installation.
Accessing via the only way possible, you will soon meet traces of the outer fence, with vertical concrete posts and barbed wire.
Miskovice Missile Base Abandoned Soviet Radar Czech
Miskovice Missile Base Abandoned Soviet Radar Czech
Miskovice Missile Base Abandoned Soviet Radar Czech
Miskovice Missile Base Abandoned Soviet Radar Czech
The framework of inner roads can still be seen, albeit invaded by vegetation. The only visible remains are the round wall for the radar, and part of the access door to one of the shelters.
Miskovice Missile Base Abandoned Soviet Radar Czech
Miskovice Missile Base Abandoned Soviet Radar Czech
Miskovice Missile Base Abandoned Soviet Radar Czech
Miskovice Missile Base Abandoned Soviet Radar Czech
Miskovice Missile Base Abandoned Soviet Radar Czech
Miskovice Missile Base Abandoned Soviet Radar Czech
Miskovice Missile Base Abandoned Soviet Radar Czech
Miskovice Missile Base Abandoned Soviet Radar Czech
Miskovice Missile Base Abandoned Soviet Radar Czech
Miskovice Missile Base Abandoned Soviet Radar Czech
Miskovice Missile Base Abandoned Soviet Radar Czech
Miskovice Missile Base Abandoned Soviet Radar Czech
Getting there and moving around
I went to the Miskovice site as I expected it to be in a much better shape. Clearly, demolition works have hit here months before my visit, so that basically nothing remains here to see – just another lost occasion of sparing a piece of military history from total oblivion. While not far from Prague and easy to reach, I would not suggest to waste time in this location.
Dobris Missile Base
Together with another sister site in the vicinity of Brno (Rapotice), the Dobris base was part of the Czechoslovakian stronghold of the anti-aircraft defense line of the Eastern Bloc, countering intrusion from the nearby NATO forces operating mainly from West Germany.
This defense line was implemented in the final years of the Brezhnev leadership in the early 1980s, and comprised of ten missile bases, located in Poland, East Germany, Czechoslovakia, Hungary and Bulgaria. It was based on the advanced SA-5 Gammon surface-to-air missile, known in the Soviet archives as S-200 Vega. Designed in the late 1960s, this massive anti-aircraft missile is still in service in many countries, offering a range of over 180 miles, a top altitude over 120’000 ft and a peak speed over Mach 4. It can carry a 450 lb warhead of conventional explosive, or a 25-kilotons nuclear warhead.
The missile battery of the SA-5 is typically composed of six 5P72 launchers, and a single radar 5N62 illuminating the target up to a distance of 180 miles.
The Dobris site, operated by the Czechoslovakian 71st Anti-Aircraft Missile Brigade, is an example of a really advanced launch facility for the SA-5 type. It is composed of three launch areas, with six launchers each, and correspondingly three 5N62 Square Pair radar antennas, making the three launch areas capable of working in parallel. Further antenna systems included a O-14 Tall King and a PRV-17 Odd Pair early warning radars, providing a seeking range of more than 350 miles at an altitude of 100’000 ft.
The area of the base in Dobris is correspondingly pretty large. The most notable feature are the incredible 60-ft-high concrete platforms where the square pair radars used to be placed. These structures are really unique, and clearly date from the latter, hi-tech stage of the Cold War era. The base was operative only in 1985, after four years of construction, carried out in secrecy by a force of 1’500 men. The areas was protected from intrusion by land, with a barbed wire fence and a concrete wall with watchtowers. All technical trails for operating the radar antennas and coordinating an attack, plus all power generators were sheltered in concrete bunkers, dug in the ground and covered in camo paint.
The base was deactivated at some point after the end of communism, for sure by the early 2000s. A private business has taken over the property, and a modern research center has been erected on the southern part of the former base. Thanks to its secluded location, sufficiently far from the city and deep in the trees, the area has come to our days in a relatively good shape. Due to the vicinity with a running business, exploring the launch part of the complex may be risky. This post covers only the more remote northern part, with the radar facilities and the control bunker.
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Accessing the site from the north through the external fence and concrete wall still in good shape, you soon come to the first bunker, connected with the early warning O-14 Tall King. The bunker features two halls, which could host a control and signal processing trailer, and a power generation unit for the antenna. A corridor leads to a back door emerging to the ground level.
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Holes in the ceiling allowed signal and power cables to reach the adjoining apron, where the antenna used to stay anchored. The Tall King was a massive 100-by-40 ft radar antenna, kept in place through six anchor points.
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Pits and concrete pipes emerge from the ground all around the base. Moving southwest from the position of the Tall King radar, you will meet the monster structure supporting the Square Pair radar for one of the southernmost missile launch battery in the base (battery number 18 in the original maps). The support structure is accessible by a steep ramp, which allowed trailers for further electronic systems to climb on top of the platform.
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
The round wall on top of the platform provided the foundations of the radar antenna. Caution is needed here, for the center of the pavement is covered with some rubbish, deceiving a hole which allowed the power and signal cables of the antenna to run below the platform, and down into the nearby shelter.
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
The Square Pair operation trailers were hosted in that shelter, dug in the ground and featuring a single vault. Behind the main vault you can find smaller rooms with traces of technical gears – possibly for ventilation – and a service area for controllers and operators. A back door made access easier for the technical staff.
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
The service roads leading to the three high platforms for the Square Pair radar antennas meet in the same point, where the control bunker of the base can be found. This bunker is interred and very large. It features three entrances on the front façade, leading to as many vaults.
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Each vault contained a power generator close to the entrance. The right vault contained the K-9 combat control trailer, with sensors and computers, from where the whole Dobris site was controlled. The central vault hosted a K-21M electrical distribution group, and the left vault the K-7 control group, which was used to monitor the status of the base and the accuracy of the targeting system. The graffiti on the sidewall of one of the vault clearly date to later than 1993, the year of Stephen Spielberg’s Jurassic Park feature!
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
To the blind end of the vaults a network of corridors and rooms can be accessed. This is interesting, for it features a protection system likely to be used in case of a serious threat to the base. This includes a system of tight doors, a ventilation system, showers and services typical to a decontamination facility.
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
This area is great fun to explore, but it is completely dark – a great environment for bats, like the one captured in this pic, purely by chance!
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
A powerful torchlight is mandatory for safely finding your way out. Traces of a control room – besides the trailer, which is clearly gone – can be found among other features of this interesting part of the bunker.
Just out of the control bunker you can find a building which served as a relax area for the troops. Traces of a gym can be found in one of the rooms.
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
To the back of the same bunker you get access to another platform for the Square Pair radar of the westernmost (number 17) missile launch area. The bunker for the control trailer can be found on the side of the platform, together with a soft cover for trucks or light vehicles.
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Dobris Soviet SAM Missile Base Czech Abandoned VEGA SA-5B
Due to time constraints, the last platform was not explored. Leaving is convenient from the same point used for entering the area.
Getting there and moving around
As pointed out, the Dobris site has been partially converted into a modern research center, funded by the European Union and involving national universities. This occupies the southernmost part of the former base, close to the launch complexes.
Accessing the northern part of the site during the week-end is probably not very risky, yet you can immediately notice that the original external fence and wall have been repaired in recent times more than once, and inside there is an unpaved road kept free of any vegetation running along the wall. Coming close to the research center is not recommended, but the parts of the base portrayed in this post are clearly unused, with overgrown vegetation, dusty surfaces and rust everywhere.
Due to the intriguing history of the base and the good state of conservation, visiting is very rewarding. The area is a national park, and in case you miss the entrance you can relax with a walk in the trees. The area is pretty large, and visiting the only part portrayed in this post may take more than 2 hours, excluding time to and from the base. Much more would be needed if you decided to explore the rest of the base. A torchlight and a tripod are mandatory to explore the inside of the bunkers.
Czechoslovakia had existed as an independent state since the end of WWI and the dissolution of the Austrian Empire. However, this small yet economically advanced province was soon to be caught right in the middle of a storm which insisted on central Europe until the 1990s, at which time this country finally gained its true independence.
Back in the Thirties, Czechoslovakia was forcibly annexed to the Third Reich as a result of the Munich Agreement in 1938. This event can be seen a major destabilizing step in Hitler’s foreign relations, clearly showing that the situation was deteriorating fast in central Europe.
Following the troublesome years of Nazi rule, this region was captured by Soviet and US troops at the end of the war. A new republic was founded, but the local communist party was very well organized, so Czechoslovakia shared the destiny of many neighbor countries which had been occupied by the Red Army in the final stage of the war. Backed by Stalin, a communist coup d’état in 1948 led to the establishment of a Soviet-style dictatorship, which was to last until 1989, making Czechoslovakia a Soviet satellite country.
Despite the relatively small size on the map, Czechoslovakia played a significant role in the economy of the Eastern Bloc. This country had a well established tradition in the production of weapons, metal hardware and machinery. Its soil is rich in Uranium. Furthermore, the forward position on the border with non-communist Western Germany and Austria further raised its strategic significance. When a secession from Moscow was tried by the local communist government, led by reformer Alexander Dubcek in 1968 – a phase known as the ‘Prague Spring’ -, the USSR reacted with all its military might, staging a full-scale invasion of the country by land and air, overturning the high ranks of the unreliable Czechoslovakian government, and putting this valuable region under a stricter communist leadership.
Clearly, the end of the communist dictatorship is today duly celebrated as a historical achievement both in the Czech Republic and Slovakia – respectively the western and eastern portions of Czechoslovakia, which peacefully split in 1993. The more than 40 years of struggle against Soviet rule constitute the theme of several interesting permanent exhibitions, but these are not the only witnesses of those troubled times. More tangible relics – all open to the public – are former border posts with former West Germany, a one-of-a-kind original communist prison camp for political prisoners, as well as some pieces of architectures and bunkers from the Cold War age.
This post is dedicated to these highlights, all to be found in the region between Prague and the border with Bavaria, in todays Czech Republic. Photographs were collected on a short trip in summer 2018.
Far from a cheesy description of everyday life in the years of the Cold War, or an inaccurate account of the history of the communist plague as a social phenomenon, this permanent exhibition takes you in detail along the history of Czechoslovakia in the years immediately before WWII, when it basically lost its independence to the Germans, and going on to 1989, when with the so-called Velvet Revolution Czechoslovakia abandoned the Soviet sphere of influence and overthrew the communist dictatorship.
The exhibition features an equilibrated mixture of original artifacts – paintings, statues, memorabilia,… -, photographs, models, dioramas and explicative panels.
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Interestingly, speaking of the Thirties and the imposed annexation to the Third Reich, you can see models of the border forts along the former German (now Polish) border. These are covered in this dedicated post.
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
The history of the anti-fascist operations, and of the role of the communist party in them, are thoroughly analyzed, and so are the decisive years immediately following the war. It is recalled how this nation was partly invaded by US troops, hence it was contested as a pure-Soviet conquer. A short-lived free Czechoslovakian republic was founded, which fell under communist control, and in the years of Stalin, with a Soviet military presence in the country, this meant the end of any independence from the USSR.
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Similar to East Berlin, Prague ended up to host a huge monument to Stalin. This was built on top of a hill facing the city, on the north bank of the river. It was suddenly blown after the death of the Soviet dictator, leaving an empty esplanade which can be still seen today (see a section below).
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
The establishment of a communist rule since the start meant the implementation of brutal repressive measures, including prison camps for political opponents, which were largely employed as forced laborers all over the territory of the state, especially for mining activities. Preventive imprisonment, extorted confessions and executions were typical to the years of Stalin. Even the troops who had come in contact with the western Allies during the war were exonerated and imprisoned, to perfectly guarantee the stability of the communist leadership of the army. A detailed account of this little-know, large-scale repressive activity is documented also by means of reconstructed interrogation rooms, as well as spy gear used by the Czechoslovakian communist political police, the StB.
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
A related interesting chapter is that of the border shared with neighbor western countries. Similar to the German Democratic Republic (see this post), the border with West Germany and Austria was heavily guarded to stop those who wanted to flee the country. A fence of many kilometers was erected and modernized on more instances. A number of citizens were sent to prison or even lost their lives trying to escape to the West. More on this can be found today on the border with Germany (see a section below).
A significant area is devoted to the wannabe-reformer Alexander Dubcek and the 1968 ‘Prague Spring’. The aggressive Soviet reaction to the experiment, backed by the new Brezhnev leadership, provided an example for other Soviet satellite countries seeking for independence. The invasion of Czechoslovakia, called ‘Operation Danube’, was carried out as a surprise attack, paralyzing all urban infrastructures by quickly landing troops and material with a well-organized airlift on the nation’s major civil airports, including Prague and Brno. Simultaneously, land troops of many countries of the Eastern Bloc crossed the border and rapidly occupied all military installations. Guerrilla actions took place especially in Prague, but it was soon clear that an action so massive could not be counteracted by the sole Czechoslovakian forces.
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
Museum Of Communism Prague
The Soviet aggression cleared any doubt about the attitude of the new leadership of the USSR. It was generally condemned even by the communist parties of the western world, but this was not helpful for Czechoslovakia, which could not overthrow the re-established Soviet-style dictatorship until the almost simultaneous collapse of the communist regimes bound to the USSR in 1989.
Getting there and moving around
This museum is an excellent resource and a starting point for gaining an insight on the history of Czechoslovakia from the late 1930s to the 1990s. A general knowledge of the Cold War history may help to better collocate the facts reported in the exhibition on the world stage, yet even if this is the first museum of the kind you may visit, it can be extremely interesting.
It is located in central Prague, perfectly accessible with a walk in the beautiful central district from the majority of the hotels. Visiting may easily take 2 hours for an interested subject. All panels and captions are in double language, Czech and English. Website with full information here.
Nuclear Bunker for Civil Defense, Prague
Following the escalation of the nuclear stockpiles in the US and USSR, countermeasures to resist a nuclear attack were implemented in many countries. Besides specific training for both troops and civilians, shelters were built for government agencies, and for the population of most crowded areas. While typically far from sufficient to save even a minimal part of the population in case of a nuclear attack, these structures were nonetheless rather extensive and sophisticated. Especially in central Europe, within reach of nuclear missiles from the start of the rocket age (see this post), nuclear bunkers for civil defense were serious structures, today standing as tangible witnesses of the Cold War (see this post).
In Prague, the system for civil defense was implemented in the form of a series of bunkers around the city center, started in the early 1950s. Over the following decades a network was created comprising the underground railway system and several metro stops, which similar to West Berlin, could be turned into nuclear bunkers providing shelter, decontamination gear and supplies for hundreds of people for several weeks.
Of this comprehensive system only a small part can be visited today. The bunker in the Parukarka district, northeast of the city center, can be accessed from a distinctive concrete gate – today covered in ignorant graffiti – in the side of a hill. Right behind the external gate you can find a massive tight door, capable of resisting to a nuclear blast, and providing access to a stair well, leading deep underground.
A room where the main tunnel splits in multiple branches gives access to a decontamination facility, a security communication post, and an area where a small exhibition on the Cold War has been placed.
You can also try putting on a mask, and take up a rifle for a weird selfie!
Getting there and moving around
The bunker can be reached a few tram stops from the main railway station. The entrance is located next to the southwestern corner of Parukarka park on Prokopova alley, a block away from Hotel Olsanka. However, the gate is usually closed, and there is no booth or visitor center there. The bunker can be visited by appointment only, or on a regular basis by taking the special-themed communist tour of Prague (see website here). The latter was my option. This tour is offered in English and maybe other languages, and will take you on a walk to a few places usually portrayed in the historical pictures from the days of ‘Operation Danube’ of 1968, and during the Velvet Revolution of 1989. The starting point is close to the Clock Tower, on the central square of historical Prague.
The highlight of the multi-hour tour is the civil defense bunker, which makes the tour appealing. For the rest, except for little information, the tour is not excessively interesting, especially if you have already a good knowledge of the history of the Cold War and of Czechoslovakia at that time. It may the depend on the guide – mine was a relatively young man, who albeit prepared, did not seem to be able to give answers to more detailed or technical questions. Furthermore, the time spent inside the bunker is limited, and very scant explanations are provided about the exhibitions and artifacts on display there. Time is not enough for good photographs. The website of the bunker, for more info or for booking a private visit, is here.
Soviet-Related Buildings and Monuments, Prague
A few buildings in Prague have a historical significance bound to the Cold War, either for the role they had in the years of the communist dictatorship, or for the fact they were erected in Soviet style.
A first example is the headquarter of the StB, the political police of Czechoslovakia, similar to the KGB, Stasi or Securitate of other communist countries. This is located in central Prague, and occupies a building which had been previously built for another purpose.
Secret Communist Police STB Headquarters Prague
To the northwest of the historical district, on the northern bank of the river, you can find a prominent example of Soviet architecture – Hotel International. This was designed in the years of Stalin, and this is reflected in the typical Stalinist tower architecture (see this post). It had been intended as a building of the department of defense, to host high-ranking military staff. It never covered this role, and after the construction years, lasting 1952-1956, it was inaugurated as a luxury hotel, with the same name it bears today.
Hotel International Prague
Hotel International Prague
Hotel International Prague
Hotel International Prague
Hotel International Prague
Hotel International Prague
Hotel International Prague
After the end of communism in Europe, the hotel has been refurbished, returning the exteriors to the original appearance. The star on top the central spire is original too. The frieze features hammers and sickles, as well as other examples of typical communist iconography.
Hotel International Prague
Hotel International Prague
Hotel International Prague
Hotel International Prague
Hotel International Prague
Hotel International Prague
Hotel International Prague
Hotel International Prague
Hotel International Prague
Hotel International Prague
Today a rather unapparent square with a nice view of the old city, the base of the monument to Stalin with the giant staircases leading to it from the water level can be found on the northern bank of the river. This area is today partly degraded, and used for temporary art installations. Only pictures from the time allow to get an idea of the monster size of the sculpture group once standing there, with Stalin and other folks overlooking the city.
Former Stalin’s Monument Prague
Former Stalin’s Monument Prague
Former Stalin’s Monument Prague
Former Stalin’s Monument Prague
Former Stalin’s Monument Prague
Former Stalin’s Monument Prague
Former Stalin’s Monument Prague
Former Stalin’s Monument Prague
Former Stalin’s Monument Prague
Former Stalin’s Monument Prague
Former Stalin’s Monument Prague
The monument was blown after Stalin was condemned by the Communist Party of the USSR, soon after his death.
Among the relatively few statues and prominent buildings dating back to the years of communist dictatorship is a couple of cosmonauts. This can be found in the southern periphery of the city, immediately out of the metro station Haje. The neighborhood is mainly residential, dating from Soviet times. Notwithstanding the general decency of the area, these two astronauts are somewhat forgotten, close to an overgrown hedge.
Prague Soviet Relic Astronaut Statue Gagarin
Prague Soviet Relic Astronaut Statue Gagarin
Prague Soviet Relic Astronaut Statue Gagarin
Prague Soviet Relic Astronaut Statue Gagarin
Getting there and moving around
The mentioned communist architectural highlights in Prague are somewhat scattered.
The StB headquarters are located on the corner between Bartolomějská Ulice and Na Perstyne, at the very center of the historical district. The former Stalin monument can be reached climbing uphill from the northern end of Chechuv Most bridge, a short walk from the historical district. Besides the questionable interest for what remains of the monument, climbing up is advisable at least for the exceptional view you can enjoy from the balcony.
The Hotel International is located further north of the city center, where Koulova alley meets Cinska road. The nice residential area is served by a number of tram and bus stops, but reaching may be easier by car. Clearly, you can also elect to stay at the hotel.
The two cosmonauts can be found in the southern peripheral district Haje, just outside of the homonym metro stop, close to a larger bus stop area. Again, reaching is less time consuming by car.
Vojna Prison Camp, Pribram
A one-of-a-kind memorial in the panorama of former communist-led countries is preserved just south of the small town of Pribram, about 40 miles southwest of Prague. This is a full scale prison camp for forced laborers, instituted by the communist dictatorship in the years of Stalin, back in 1947. The prisoners of this camp were interned only for political reasons. Together with other similar installations, it supplied workforce for the extraction of uranium ore from mines nearby. The number of inmates increased steadily until the early 1960s, reaching the order of 1,500, until a series of amnesties were promulgated and prison camps were closed in Czechoslovakia.
The camp went on to be operated as a military depot, and reopened as a national memorial in the late 1990s.
Close to the entrance, which is via the original gate in the outer fence of the camp, a former industrial building has been substituted by a modern building with roughly the same shape, hosting a conference center and the visitor center. When on a self-guided tour, you are advised to start your visit with an exhibition on the history of the Czechoslovakian prison camps, hosted in the former guard quarters. The exhibition provides models, pictures and quick numbers to get an idea of the proportion of the repression and internment of political prisoners, as well as of the forced labor system set up by the communist leadership.
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
A memorial to those who perished as a result of political repression and imprisonment in the area of Pribram concludes this part.
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
The partly original and partly reconstructed buildings on display include a complete external perimeter, a prison and a rigor cell.
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Inside an inner guarded perimeter, a few barracks for the inmates have been reconstructed or refurbished, and are used to showcase temporary and permanent exhibitions. One of great interest at the time of my visit described in detail the days of the liberation from the Nazi occupation – US troops briefly took over control of the area, and they met the Soviet army nearby Pribram.
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
There are also service buildings for the guards, with a small movie theater and a canteen.
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Another interesting part is the original emergency room and clinic. The face of Stalin in the doctor’s room is particularly disturbing. Besides the generally harsh living conditions, illnesses and injuries typical to mine works were rather common. Inexperience of the forced laborers clearly added to the injury rates.
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
In a building to the far end of the camp you can find an exhibition about mining activities in the area and uranium extraction in Czechoslovakia, which represented an asset of this country in the eyes of the USSR.
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Vojna Communist Prison Camp Uranium Mine Pribram Czech
Getting there and moving around
The prison camp is opened as a national memorial. It can be reached by car along highway N.4 in 30 minutes from central Prague in the small village of Lesetice, immediately south of Pribram. There are opening times, but you can visit either on a self-guided basis or with a guide. I was not given the option of a guided tour in English though, so I enjoyed a self-guided tour. There is some paneling in English, but not extensively covering all parts of the installation. Access to the rigor cell is only possible with a guide, but you may join a guided tour only for that small part of the exhibition, just to get access.
A complete visit on a self-guided basis may take about 1.5 hours for the interested subject, including time for taking all the pictures.
Please note they accept only cash. Website in English with full information here.
Iron Curtain Museum, Rozvadov
This atypical museum is located right on the border with Germany, between the Czech village of Rozvadov and the German town of Frankenreuth, Bavaria. Back in the years of the Cold War, the highway E50 today crossing the border nearby did not exist, and this border post was a major checkpoint on the line between the Eastern Bloc and the West.
The museum is deceptively located in the basement of the gas station immediately cross the border on the Czech side. The gas station itself used to be the custom and border control station, as you can see from historical pictures inside the museum.
The museum is constituted of a collection of photographs and artifacts. The exhibits cover roughly two themes – communism in Czechoslovakia and the Cold War as a global confrontation.
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Red banners, small sculptures, photographs and propaganda posters have been collected from various locations in Czechoslovakia. These include official portraits of the communist presidents of Czechoslovakia, and memorabilia belonging to their offices.
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
A good collection of weapons and communication gear belonging to border guards and local troops of both sides of the Iron Curtain is also on display. Communist-themed commemorative medals and dinnerware are part of the collection.
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
The part on the global confrontation is smaller, and include photographs from sister museums in other countries including the US, a small documentation on the history of nuclear tests and the nuclear stockpiles in the Cold War period.
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
Iron Curtain Museum Rozvadov Muzeum Zelezne Opony Border Communist Germany Czech
On the outside, a few vehicles of the former border guards can be found (no pictures due to heavy rain).
Getting there and moving around
This nice small museum is surely worth visiting for the interested subject, even though it does not concentrate much on the history of the local border post. The website in Czech language can be found here, basic visiting info can be easily found with some Google translation. It can be reached by car on the road connecting Frankenreuth, Bavaria, and Rozvadov, immediately cross the border on the Czech side. Signs to the entrance can be found around the local gas station. Entry is behind the building of the gas station. Visiting on a self-guided basis will not take more than 45 minutes for the interested subject.
Please note that they accept only cash.
Museum of the Border Guard, Rozvadov
This museum is actually a preserved former barrack of the border guards. Not only it looks like the building is still being operated, it actually is, albeit only for reunions of the former guards and local ranger corps, which today keep it open.
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Thanks to this special condition, the place is very vivid and makes for an extremely interesting visit. Besides the sleeping quarters, you can find a series of rooms with rifles and technical material, including radio and communication equipment.
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
If you are lucky, the guide will give you a demonstration of how parts of this technical gear work.
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
A former class room/meeting room hosts a reconstruction of the fences which used to run all along the border with West Germany and Austria. The level of control was totally similar to the one implemented between the two German Republics (see this post). In the same room there is a small collection of weapons you can touch.
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
In a room close by the entrance a sentinel was always keeping the assigned sector of the border under control. The various protective layers prevented anybody from escaping the communist territory. Besides watchtowers along the border line, when touched the innermost fence triggered an alarm in the sentinel’s room. This appeared as a mark on a specially designed detector, which could tell with good approximation where the fugitive was trying to cross the border. This would trigger the other guards, who would scramble out and seek for him. This sophisticated piece of machinery was manufactured in the GDR…
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Museum of the Border Guard Rozvadov Muzeum Pohraniční stráže Germany Czech Border Iron Curtain
Getting there and moving around
Reaching the place can be tricky, for there are no signs leading to it. From the road 605 in Rozvadov, follow the indications to Casino Admiral. This is located on a road climbing gently uphill from the 605. Going further on the same road, you will reach a dead-end, and a group of shabby barracks after about .3 miles. These must have been all service buildings and barracks for the border guards. One of the barracks is the museum. The exact GPS coordinates are (49.673994, 12.545367).
Information on the opening times can be found from the website of the town administration (on the right hand side of the web page).
Opening times are extremely limited. You are followed on your visit by one of the guards, some of them can speak a little English, sufficient for making the visit extremely interesting. There is no institutional ticket, but they will ask for a voluntary cash offer. Visiting may take about 30-40 minutes.
A little known fragment of Cold War history concerns the deployment of ballistic missiles by the Soviet Union outside of its national borders. Considering the case of the GDR, aka DDR in German language, during the Cold War the westernmost communist dictatorship in Europe, this happened in several instances.
History – in brief
Two such episodes took place in the 1950s and early 1960s with strategic missiles – Shyster and Sandal – in the area of Fürstenberg and Vogelsang, located one hour north of Berlin by car (see this post), in the territory of the GDR. This deployments lasted only briefly, cause strategic missiles of much longer range were developed soon, allowing targeting western Europe and the US from within the USSR.
Since then, a nuclear striking force was allegedly present over the territory of the GDR at all times, as testified by a number of now abandoned nuclear warhead bunkers built on the premises of major Soviet airbases (see for instance this post, and links therein). This force was mainly based on tactical warheads intended to be launched from aircraft.
From the 1960s to the early 1980s the USSR deployed also SCUD-A and SCUD-B short-range nuclear missile systems over the territory of some Soviet-controlled countries. This mobile-launched light weapons were stationed in the GDR in Königsbruck, Bischofswerda and Meissen, close to the border with Poland and the Czech Republic, as well as around Wünsdorf, were the high command of the Soviet forces in Germany was located (see this post). The improved SS-21 Scarab was added to the arsenal in Königsbruck in 1981, with a range similar to that of the SCUD systems.
Nuclear missiles appeared again in the GDR towards the end of the Cold War, in the years between 1984 and 1988. This time the Soviets used intermediate-range theater missiles, in the form of the SS-12 Scaleboard, a 500 kilotons, single-warhead tactical system, with a range of 500 miles and launched directly from a mobile launcher. The reason for this deployment was a kind of retaliation following the choice of the Reagan administration, together with some European NATO Countries including West Germany, Italy and Britain, to deploy intermediate-range missiles provided by the US in Western Europe.
This move by the western allies was part of the complicated and lengthy negotiations which would culminate in the INF treaty in late 1987, between the US and the USSR. In the end, this agreement led to a bilateral dismantlement of intermediate-range nuclear forces (‘INF’), including both the American Pershing II and the Soviet Scaleboard.
Talks aiming at counterbalancing the Soviet nuclear deterrent in Europe represented by the SS-20 Pioneer mobile-launched missiles, with a range of more than 3,000 miles, had been started in the closing phase of the Carter administration, with the USSR still led by Brezhnev. The goal of the operation from a western standpoint was the deactivation of this missile by the Soviets. The deployment of a huge force of hundreds of Pershing II tactical ballistic missiles and Gryphon cruise missiles by the US, ordered in 1983 by the Reagan administration in agreement with some European Countries, should stand as a precaution in case the desired deactivation of the SS-20 would not be obtained (see also this post). The NATO move was perhaps not interpreted as desired, and in response the USSR deployed the Scaleboard in the GDR, close to the border with the West in 1984, putting a halt to the talks.
Following the change in the leadership of the USSR, the INF treaty was later signed in 1987 by President Reagan and Gorbachev. The involved missiles deployed by both the US and the USSR, and not limited to the Gryphon, Pershing II and Scaleboard, were soon withdrawn starting in 1988. They were later decommissioned and physically destroyed.
Sights
Today, a few relics of this late episodes of the Cold War can be found in the former German Democratic Republic. The quick deployment of the Scaleboard meant that an existing Soviet missile brigade (119th) was relocated in mid-1984 from Gombori, in the Soviet Republic of Georgia, to locations in the GDR, namely Königsbruck and Bischofswerda near Dresden, and Warenshof and Wokuhl in Mecklenburg. Thanks to the improved mobility of the Scaleboard system, launched from mobile platforms, not much hardware was necessary for storing and operating the missile. Light shelters were quickly built to store the nuclear warheads and the missiles. These were connected by a network of short service roads made with prefabricated concrete slabs.
Following the withdrawal of the missiles, and later of all Soviet troops from the former GDR, these missile sites were demolished or invaded by nature. Apparently, nothing has survived in Königsbruck and in the bases in Mecklenburg, whereas in Bischofswerda significant remains are to be found, albeit not publicized at all, with a short walk in the trees.
This post provides a map and a few pictures to reach the former Bischofswerda missile base. Photographs were taken in late summer 2018.
Map
The following map highlights the location of the bunkers and the access points to the Bischofswerda site. During my visit I tried three accesses by car, and the northern access road – access point 1 on the map – is the only one where I could find a (small) parking area. The area is today in a forest, and there you cannot get to the bunkers with a car – prohibition signs can be found close to all three pinpointed access points. Some walking will be needed, but the area is nice and you are likely to see some wildlife – that was my case!
I noticed that the Ulmon map on my iPhone had the bunkers accurately pinpointed. In any case, a GPS and an electronic non-satellite map is strongly recommended, for the site is shrouded by high-grown vegetation, and barely visible on a satellite photograph.
Please note that the POIs related to the missile bunkers on the map above have been placed by hand, and may be not very accurate. I noticed the Google base map does not show all the service roads connecting the bunkers. These roads are not maintained any more for vehicles, but they can still be used by hikers. Anyway, I tried to reconstruct the basic network with green lines – please zoom in to see them.
Bischofswerda SS-12 Scaleboard Missile Bunkers
Accessing the site from the northernmost entry point (access point 1 on the map), you will soon meet a former service/administration building for the troops, in pure Soviet style from the Eighties – see the terminal passenger in Sperenberg here, from the same years. It was built in 1983, and today it is used in the warm season as a service building for boy scouts and other forest-related activities. A placard quickly recalls its history. The Soviets (then Russians) left the place in 1993, and the barracks originally built in the area for servicemen stationed there were completely demolished soon after.
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
From the service building, the area of the missile shelters can be reached with a quick walk along a broad and almost flat road – you might easily drive to the place, if only it was not forbidden.
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
The bunkers are grouped around a small square area with concrete slabs on the ground. Despite the short distance from the square to the shelters, these are totally unapparent, and you may have a hard time getting closer to them if you do not have a GPS and some electronic map. Zoom in on the map above for some basic directions concerning this part of the missile site.
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
While they have not been demolished, all bunkers are abandoned with only one exception, and they are effectively hidden by wild vegetation.
There are bunkers of three types. The majority are hangars for storage of the missiles. There were four launchers with two missiles each, totaling eight missiles on the Bischofswerda site. The nuclear warheads were stored separately from the missiles, and quickly installed only in case an order to attack was issued. Bunker N on the map is the former storage for the nuclear warheads. Access is not possible due to the wild vegetation and the partial sealing of the sliding door with a pile of land. Yet the distinctive polygon-shaped metal access door can still be seen, different from that of all other bunkers.
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
The storage bunker A can be neared more easily. You can notice the totally different construction with respect to the nuclear warhead bunker N. The door of this bunker is sealed too.
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Between bunker A and B there are traces of a construction, possibly another bunker, today completely interred.
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
The missile bunker B is open, and used as a storage for wood logs. There are also parts of the original ventilation system. The construction components of the shelter are similar to those you can find in other Soviet missile launch bases (see for instance this post). Yet the size of the bunker is rather small compared to similar facilities built for strategic missiles. This highlights the reduced cost of the preparation of a theater missile launch facility, with respect to its strategic missile counterparts.
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
On the far end of the complex (item Z on the map), you can find another bunker, at a glance similar to the other missile shelters. It was opened when I visited, and as you see from the pics there is an intermediate frame, dividing the hangar in two parts, connected by a passage. Considering the position and structure, I guess this was a command bunker, similar to those you see in other Soviet missile bases (like again this). There is a placard remembering the deployment of the Scaleboard system in this base, and inside somebody recently put a photograph of two former high-ranking staff from the US and Soviet Armies stationed in Germany at the time of the deployment, shaking hands in front of this very bunker. The photo was taken years after the decommissioning of the site.
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Two other missile shelters, C and D on the map, close the tour. One of them is open, the other is sealed and barely reachable due to vegetation.
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Soviet Missile Base SS-12 Scaleboard Germany Bischofswerda
Special Feature – 119th Missile Brigade barracks in Gombori, Georgia
As mentioned above, the Soviet 119th Missile Brigade was tasked with running the theater missile installations hastily prepared in locations in Germany. To this purpose, the 119th was relocated in May 1984 from Gombori, Georgia, then a Soviet Socialist Republic in the realm of the USSR. It left back to Gombori at the end of the German deployment in March 1988. By that time, it converted to another missile platform, following the coincidental phase-out of the SS-12. For the time of the ‘German leave’, the 119th was under the responsibility of the Group of Soviet Forces in Germany, headquartered in Wünsdorf (see this post).
In the following pictures, taken on another trip (2019), you can see the abandoned barracks of the 119th in Gombori. This site was code-named ‘Tbilisi Army Barracks Gombori AL 12’ by the US, due to the proximity with the Georgian capital city, Tbilisi.
Gombori Georgia Abandoned Soviet Base Headquarters SCUD Missiles Eastern Germany
Gombori Georgia Abandoned Soviet Base Headquarters SCUD Missiles Eastern Germany
Gombori Georgia Abandoned Soviet Base Headquarters SCUD Missiles Eastern Germany
Gombori Georgia Abandoned Soviet Base Headquarters SCUD Missiles Eastern Germany
Gombori Georgia Abandoned Soviet Base Headquarters SCUD Missiles Eastern Germany
The 119th Missile Brigade moved away from Georgia after the USSR broke apart. It relocated to Elanskiy, Russia.
Getting there and moving around
As already pointed out, getting close to the site is possible by car, but touring the place will require a walk of roughly 1.5-2. I suggest leaving the car at access point 1 on the map. The site missile is not maintained except for the former service building, where you can find picnic tables and related facilities. The building was closed for the season already at the beginning of September, but the area around the building is not abandoned. The former service roads in the trees are maintained as well.
On the other hand, the area of the bunkers is basically abandoned, except for the Z bunker on the map, which is not maintained, but bears a placard on the front façade. Walking around does not pose any particular difficulty, but you should go prepared to face nettles, brambles and wild vegetation around the bunkers. Carefully watch your step, for there are open manholes scattered on the ground, probably part of the original underground electric supply system.
Visiting may take a bit more than 1 hour for the interested subject – something more if you want to take good pictures. A tripod is strongly advised also for external photographs, cause the trees effectively stop sunlight, so the area is mainly dark.
