The small island of Bornholm is today a popular destination for vacation time. Especially in the summer, the small and picturesque towns along the coast, as well as the curvy roads unwinding over the gentle slopes in the countryside, become increasingly crowded with cars, motorbikes, campers and bicycles – however, without reaching the point where a tourist who is looking for relaxation may feel uncomfortable.
The quiet and relaxed aura of this enjoyable piece of land, halfway between the German-Polish coast and that of Sweden – and nonetheless part of Denmark – hides a history pointed of battles and turmoil, lasting from the early era of the vikings until the Cold War.
Quick historical facts
Between the medieval times and the 17th century, the island was often seized by the Hanseatic League, binding together coastal towns in the Baltic and protecting trading routes. During the 17th century, Sweden became a major player in the area, and wars between Denmark and Sweden meant the island changing landlord more than once, with the locals always playing militarily in favor of a union with Denmark, to an extent made possible by their own forces, yet meeting with final success.
A largely forgotten war between Britain and Denmark, taking place in the years of total confusion brought about by Napoleon’s endeavors all over Europe, meant that Bornholm was attacked by the British fleet in more instance between 1808 and 1810, basically without any success.
World War II
The invasion of Denmark by the Third Reich and the capitulation of the Danish government, militarily unable to counter the irresistible march of Hitler’s military forces in April 1940, resulted in Bornholm being occupied by the Germans. The local Danish commander annotated the order not to resist the German take-over with disappointment, feeling that a firmer military response to the invaders was indeed possible. The island was fairly well organized and armed against an air-launched invasion.
The capitulation of Denmark without engaging in a military struggle allowed to obtain less harsh conditions from the occupants, including a limited independent military activity for the first years of WWII. However, a strong anti-German feeling fueled the growth of a resistance movement, including locally in Bornholm.
Similar to what happened to the Danish mainland (see this post), the military planners of the Third Reich included Bornholm in the coastal defense structure on the outer border of the newly acquired German territory – the so-called Atlantic Wall. In particular, construction of a fortress for four 38 cm cannons started on the south-eastern corner of the island, in Dueodde (similar to that in Hanstholm, Denmark, of Vara, Norway). The very efficient Organisation Todt had the first two emplacement largely complete by April 1941. By the attack on the Soviet Union in June 1941 however, and with the rapid expansion of the Third Reich to the east, the fortress in Dueodde was deemed of little use. In the event, construction works never reached completion.
Further significant war-related construction projects on Bornholm included observation posts and several radar stations (Würzburg and Freya types), which could profit from the location of the island on the route taken by bomber groups on their way back to Britain from raids over Berlin or the surrounding region. The proximity with respect to the facility for the development of experimental weapons at Peenemünde (see here) made of Borhnolm a natural place for the installation of measuring equipment. Furthermore, the main coastal town of Rønne – still today the largest center of the island, where most of the commercial and ferry sea traffic goes through – was largely employed as a base for the Kriegsmarine. Actually, more than 600 different German submarine units called this port during the war years, about one half of the entire German submarine fleet!
Diplomatic relations between the Third Reich and Denmark deteriorated rapidly in August 1943, when the Germans – now at a turning point of the war – launched operation Safari, trying to capture all assets of whatever military value from Denmark, thus also destroying its military capability. As a response, Denmark scuttled 32 of its own vessels, and sent a handful to Swedish or to even more distant friendly ports. In Borhnolm all Danish troops were disarmed and taken away from the island.
Somewhat paradoxically, the most tragic events of the war struck Borhnolm at the very end, when the island found itself off the coast of Poland, now taken over by the Soviet Red Army advancing from the east towards Berlin (see this post). As the fear of defeat and imprisonment grew among the ranks of Third Reich forces, following the heavy losses on the eastern front in Spring 1945, many German troops reached Bornholm to prepare for an escape further west, or north to neutral Sweden. This presence was noticed by Soviet intelligence, who intercepted communications mentioning several thousands of German military troops on the island – their actual number has been estimated at around 20’000 by May 1945. The war officially ended in Denmark on May 5th, 1945. However, at that time the chain of command and the communication system in the Third Reich had collapsed, and the local German commanders on Bornholm still retained the order to repel the Soviets with any possible means, without permission to surrender. As a result, the Soviets bombed the island twice, severely damaging Rønne and the port town of Nexø, unharmed up to that point, on May 7th and 8th, 1945.
Soviet Occupation
Following the two Soviet bombing raids, a group of six Soviet torpedo boats sailed from Kolberg, Poland (now Kolobrzeg, see this post), landed and reclaimed control of the island of Bornholm on April 9th, 1945. At that time, about 16’000 German troops and refugees were still on the island, trying to flee to the West or to Sweden by any possible means. Reportedly 700 boats of any kind were involved in this desperate evacuation operation, and about 5’000 Germans (military and civilian) had fled by sea just the day before the Soviet landing.
The anti-German resistance movement on Bornholm joined forces with the Soviets, trying to search for trapped German troops and prevent their escape to the West. The airfield in Rønne was captured on May 9th in one of these joint actions – specifically stopping a German aircraft already taxiing for take-off, after some others had already successfully got airborne! These operations went on until May 20th, and due to the very significant number of German troops still on site, they required drafting people in the Soviet-backed group of ‘freedom fighters’, which afterwards remained the only official local para-military group on the island, besides the Red Army (conversely, members of the the original voluntary resistance movement soon returned to their pre-war civilian occupation).
The Soviet presence on Bornholm constituted a potentially explosive problem. The agreement at Yalta between the US, Britain and the USSR in February 1945, months before the actual capitulation of the Third Reich, had defined that Denmark would remain independent, and specifically not within the Soviet-controlled territories in Europe. The British government, at that time still led by Churchill, was extremely worried by the Soviet capture of Bornholm, and after unofficially questioning the Soviets, the answer was even more appalling – according to Soviet diplomats, the island had to stay under Soviet control indefinitely, through the support of a military contingent of 9’000, soon to reach those already on site!
This led to the beginning of a peculiar page in the history of Bornholm, and of the diplomatic relations between the USSR and the West, which would soon get worse on a global scale, leading to the Cold War. Relations between the local Danish government and the Soviets were generally good at an official level, thanks to the skills of the local leading figure on the Danish side, von Stemann. To keep the public eye on this unsolved issue, he managed to organize an official visit of the Crown Princess of Denmark, who met the Soviet top staff on Bornholm. The day-by-day coexistence with the Soviets was less idyllic, with increasing incidents due to the misconduct of the bored Soviet troops stationed on the island, and the growing discontent among the locals. Uncertainty about Soviet plans fostered fear over a possible long-term occupation.
Finally in December 1945, Britain officially questioned the Soviet government about the case of Bornholm, and Molotov answered that the Soviet Union did not intend to have any permanent base in Denmark (as per the Yalta accords), yet the island was to be retained by the USSR as a guarantee, due to the presence of British troops on the Danish mainland.
The Danish government reacted preparing to retake full control of its own territory, correspondingly asking all foreign troops – from any nation – out of its borders. In March 1946 it was announced that the Soviet troops would leave the island of Bornholm, as Denmark prepared to install its own military forces back on it. In good order, the Soviets actually left the island, the last ship departing Rønne on April 5th, 1946.
The Cold War
Denmark joined NATO as a founding member in 1949, the result of the action of the then prime minister Hans Hedtoft, a former member of the resistance in Denmark, who had got a clear insight of the line of action followed by the Soviet Union, at that time still led by Stalin.
The support given by Denmark to NATO was not obvious for that country, since the proximity to the Eastern Bloc – especially Bornholm, geographically located close to the (by then) Soviet-controlled Polish coast – made Denmark extremely vulnerable and militarily untenable in case of a potential Soviet attack. The policy adopted by the Danish government over the decades of the Cold War in support of NATO was sincere but always carefully calibrated, to reduce the risk of Soviet intervention, which would possibly result in an extremely dangerous escalation.
Consequently, no international NATO base nor any nuclear warhead was ever permanently based in Denmark. Yet highly defended coastal strongholds were established, which can still be seen today (see this post).
Bornholm hit the headlines in the early phase of the Cold War, when the first-ever jet-propelled fighter from beyond the Iron Curtain defected to the West. This happened on March 5th, 1953, the very same day of Stalin’s death. The Polish pilot, 21 years old Franciszek Jarecki, had departed Slupsk airbase in northern Poland on a training mission, when he suddenly left his group and flew as fast and low as he could to Rønne, where he safely landed his aircraft, asking for asylum. The aircraft was a MiG-15, and that was the first time this new type of aircraft, which played havoc against propeller-driven machines in the early phase of the Korean War, could be inspected by Western powers.
The case was treated very carefully from a diplomatic standpoint by Denmark, to avoid provoking a violent reaction on the Soviet side. A technical inspection was carried out in a well-coordinated, highly secretive mission set up by the British and the US, ending with the restitution of the reassembled machine to Poland. Finally, the pilot was granted asylum in the US, where he had a remarkable military career (his flight suit from the defection mission ending up in the Smithsonian collection, at Udvar-Hazy Center, close to Dulles airport in Washington, D.C.). This topic is well covered in the excellent book ‘The secret MiGs of Bornholm‘ by Dick van der Aart (see the bookshop section).
Jarecki’s escape was not an isolated case, since in 1953 and 1956 two more Polish fighter pilots successfully landed (or crash-landed) their aircraft on Bornholm (while another made it all the way to Sweden). Then the Soviets had Polish fighter units relocated further south, where Bornholm was out of range, and took over control of the northernmost bases.
Defection to Borhnolm by air on a jet fighter was rare compared to the overall cases of people reaching Bornholm to flee either communist Poland or the GDR, similarly close to the island. For all the years of the Cold War, Bornholm constituted the goal of dozens of escape attempts, some of them successful, carried out mostly by sea.
The location well within the Soviet area of influence was exploited with the construction of a prominent intelligence base by Denmark, to the advantage of NATO forces. This was again in the Dueodde. The base was very effective and was updated to keep up with upgrades in electronic communication technology over the years until the end of the Cold War. It was later kept in service, and shut off only in 2012.
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A visit to Bornholm today will likely be for relaxation and for enjoying this nice country. However, for those with an interest for its peculiar history there are some very interesting collections and rare sites to visit. They allow to retrace in particular the rich military history of the island, without much effort and with great satisfaction for either researchers or the general public. This post covers five of them, four of which are museums. They were all visited in the summer of 2024, and all photographs were taken in that occasion.
A good place to start the exploration of the military history of Bornholm, the Defence Museum (Bornholms Forsvarsmuseum in the local idiom) is located to the south of the town center of Rønne, the busiest seaport and the capital city of the island.
The museum is hosted in two old military buildings, including the local kastellet, a massive tower with a round base, built for coastal defense.
The collection is housed in the courtyard and on the two levels of the first building. For the relatively little area it covers, this collection is extremely rich and informative, with panels covering in depth some specific events, offered in multiple languages including English.
On the ground floor, an interesting exhibition on the evolution of the artillery in Bornholm starts with a display of very old cannons – including possibly the oldest preserved exemplars of some types – and insignia dating from the wars against Sweden.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Then more modern exemplars from the 19th century, and reaching to an American type 105 from WWII, employed on Bornholm in the Cold War period, allow to follow the evolution of this type of weapon.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
For more curious visitors, little artifacts interspersed between the larger exhibits on display add much value to the collection. Training material for anti-aircraft artillery from the WWII era, including down-scaled fake aircraft targets, as well as various types of grenades and shells employed with the artillery pieces stationed on the island can be found on display between the big guns on the ground floor.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
An original German aiming device has been positioned such to be still usable – you can see outside through the optical system. Note the eagle and swastika marking on the label.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
A particularly interesting item, not easy to find in a museum, is a complete launching device for the Stinger missile. This type of ground-to-air anti-aircraft missile, albeit rather rudimentary compared to other offensive missile platforms, has turned out very effective in actual war scenarios, especially against slow-moving aircraft or helicopters. The compact launchpad, operable by a single gunner, features two launching tubes. Aiming is via a visor, and the trigger is placed on two pistol-like grips.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Many radio transmitters and receivers, including a sizable console with stacks mostly made in the US (look at the labels and tags!), are on display together with a rare computer, a Compucorp 625 Mark II, a standalone machine which was employed from the late 1970s to run a software for ballistic computations.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
On the top floor of the same building, an exhibition covering some specific military episodes from the 19th century serves as an introduction to the rich collection of memorabilia from WWII and the Cold War.
Decorations from the Third Reich, as well as insignia, uniforms and personal everyday items belonging to the Wehrmacht troops, or to some specific people in the German staff living on the island, are on display, in most cases along with explanatory panels telling their peculiar stories.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Unusual items include a table with mottoes in German, an embroidered napkin with emblems from the winning powers of WWII.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
As said in the introduction, Bornholm found itself on the trajectory of allied bombers returning from raids on today’s northeastern Germany (including Berlin). In more instances, bombers damaged by flak fire or by German fighter aircraft, hence unable to make their way home, were forced to crash-land on Bornholm. The detailed history of two of these bombers and their corresponding crews is told in a dedicated set of display cases, showing even the track followed by each of the crew members as they tried to flee Bornholm (occupied by the Germans). Some interesting memorabilia items are on display from those episodes, including personal belongings of the crew members, and cash notes in diverse currencies, with their names written on them. These notes were given specifically to crew members, to help them in case of landing in a foreign country in Europe.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
From the same era is a perfectly preserved Enigma machine. This is presented together with a detailed story, which could be retraced by war historians in Bornholm. Actually, this specific machine was made in 1937 and largely employed on the Eastern front in the actions against the Soviet Union. When German troops were fleeing the northern coast of Poland and Germany in the last days of the war (May 1945), the machine arrived to Bornholm, where it was little employed, since the chain of command of the German Army had collapsed by that time. The machine was ditched in the water by the surrendering troops, but it was soon to be found, taken to a private house, and largely forgotten afterwards. Finally, it was donated to the museum decades later.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Another unusual display is about the relics of German experimental weapons landing in Bornholm, and the espionage operations related to their find. Due to the proximity with the island of Usedom and the research center of Wehrner von Braun in Peenemünde, launches from the polygon where V-1 and V-2 were being tested could be spotted sometimes from Bornholm. Actually, early exemplars of a Fieseler Fi-103, aka V-1, first stranded on Bornholm in July and August 1943. They were first discovered by two local Danish citizens belonging to the police, who took quick sketches and pictures, and passed them to the British through the anti-German resistance links. These turned out to be the first photographs of that new weapon to reach the western Allies. The two were captured and imprisoned by the German occupants, but eventually they managed to flee to Sweden.
Some relics of the V-1 crashed on Bornholm are on display, as well as memorabilia items belonging to the two Danes who found the relic. The latter include a British decoration presented for their service.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Additionally, interesting pictures show the contrail of a V-2 photographed over Bornholm, and the picture of another V-2 crashed in Sweden!
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Further remains from the era include gauges from the cockpit of German fighter aircraft, captured by the Soviets as they were trying to takeoff from Bornholm and escape, and a ribbon from the ill-fated German passenger ship Wilhelm Gustloff. She was sank by a Soviet submarine roughly 60 miles east of Bornholm in January 1945, while enroute to mainland Germany from former possessions of the Third Reich in nowadays Poland, lost to the advancing Red Army. Losses are estimated in the range of 10’000, making this largely forgotten episode by far the worst-ever naval disaster in history.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Another rich section documents the presence of the Soviets on the island. Artifacts on display range from flags and direction signs for the stationing troops, written in Russian, to many personal items left behind by the Soviets.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Typical propaganda posters are on display as well, similar to more official and non-public items, like transcripts of communications between the local Danish and Soviet commanders from the age of the Soviet occupation of Bornholm in 1945-46.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Many evocative pictures are on display from that time as well, and similarly from the Cold War. Among them, pictures of the Polish MiGs landed on Bornholm, of the many ELINT and COMINT centers put on Bornholm during the decades of the Cold War (including the tower in Nexø, see here), and copy of the Soviet attack plan in case of war against NATO.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
A final chapter documented in this nice museum is the service of the Danish Armed Forces within the UN in Cyprus. Tasked with border surveillance between the two regions on the island, Danish forces were involved in action – with some casualties – at the time of the Turkish attack in 1970. They only left the island in the early 1990s.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
The kastellet is today mostly empty, and once inside, it is possible to appreciate the original architecture of this bastion, which saw action against the many attempts by foreign attackers to land on Bornholm.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
On the outside and in a small depot on the side of the inner courtyard, further items are on display. Propellers from the WWII aircraft crashed in the area represent both the German Luftwaffe (Do-17 bomber) and the Western Allies (B-24 and Halifax bombers).
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
A Chaffee-type small tank and two armored vehicles are on display, together with naval guns, radar antennas, land robots and artillery aiming gear.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
A peculiar sight is one of the observation turrets originally scattered on the territory of the island, for spotting aircraft or other flying stuff and promptly report it.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
On display are also sea mines, sonobuoys, radar scopes and parts of torpedoes, some of them interesting Soviet models, likely recovered from the Baltic Sea during the Cold War.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Ahead of the entrance to the museum, a memorial stone has been put more recently by an association of veterans.
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Bornholm Forsvarsmuseum Rønne – Defence Museum – Military Collection
Getting there and visiting
The museum is located close to Rønne downtown, from where it can be reached with a short walk (about .3 miles south from the central touristic area). The address is Arsenalvej 8 – 3700 Rønne. There is a little parking area on site. The museum is professionally run, and it has its own dedicated website here (also available in English).
Visiting is strongly recommended as a first stop for an exploration of the military history of Bornholm. For war buffs, WWII and Cold War historians, this place has much in store, and a visit may easily take 2 hours. Less is required for a more basic visit, made easy also by the compactness of the display.
Bornholm’s Museum, Rønne
Bornholm’s Museum is the main facility dedicated to the history of the island. Located in a former hospital, you can immediately notice the presence of a bombing raid shelter in the courtyard. This is an original relic from WWII.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
The museum takes all floors of a small building, and it is dedicated to the history of the island in all its aspects, and with artifacts from all ages, including Roman coins and viking accessories.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Of particular interest from the time of the vikings is a collection of golden plates. They are smaller than a human fingernail, and decorated with human figures and other subjects. Plus, they are really many! They are of special interest also due to the fact that nobody knows what they are. Archaeologists found them mostly on Bornholm, and in a much lower quantity elsewhere in Scandinavia.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Fast forward to the 20th century, the museum has on display interesting memorabilia from WWII and from the era of the Soviet occupation.
Among them are original decorations, documents and photographs, from both the German and Soviet sides.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
From the early Cold War period, a small piece from Jarecki’s MiG-15 is preserved in a display case, with a picture of President Eisenhower receiving at the White House the first pilot defecting from Eastern Europe (apparently, a young John F. Kennedy appears to stand behind them).
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Shop signs and indication signs in Russian, the original working desk of the Danish governor of the island at the time of the Soviet occupation, and everyday working tools belonging to the Soviet staff are among the displays in this museum.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
A – perhaps – non-permanent exhibition is dedicated to the Soviets on the island, including the two air bombing raids they carried out in the closing days of WWII, which caused much destruction.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
An interesting exhibition on the Cold War in Bornholm examines it from different perspectives. Among them, it is shown how preparations for a nuclear attack included the institution of a civil defense system, similar to most western Countries.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Similarly, the conspicuous wave of defections, of both military staff and civilians, from beyond the Iron Curtain to Bornholm is fully documented. Being located relatively close to the GDR and Poland, Bornholm was a natural target destination for those trying to leave the Baltic coast by sea. On display are documents of seamen asking for asylum, as well as a small dinghy employed for a successful escape attempt. A rather impressive full list of the successful and unsuccessful escape attempts towards Bornholm from the communist world is provided.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
In another part of the museum, dedicated to everyday items and business activities, it is possible to find toys and other common tools from the Cold War era, as well as beautiful models of several vessels in service at that time – as well as today.
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Bornholms Museum Rønne – Vikings, WWII and Cold War History
Getting there and visiting
The museum is one of the major attractions in Rønne, the capital city of the island. It is located within the perimeter of the historical center of the town, and you will be probably visiting it if you are interested in any aspect of the history of Bornholm. The address is Sankt Mortens Gade 29 – 3700 Rønne.
For those with an interest for the military history of the 20th century, the collection of this museum makes for a nice complement to that to be found in the Defence Museum (see above).
For a complete visit, 1 to 2 hours are likely enough. Less than 1 hour is needed if you are mostly interested to the WWII and Cold War part, including the nice exhibition on the Soviet presence.
The museum has regular opening times and a fully documented website here (also available in English).
Bornholm’s Tower, Nexø
The tower is an authentic relic from the Cold War. The intelligence site in Dueodde (close to the major town of Nexø, itself close to the southeastern corner of Bornholm) was originally established in 1958, in the facilities of an old lighthouse from 1876, which is still standing besides the new tower.
The task was that of intercepting communications from Soviet channels, primarily to the aim of knowing of any potentially offensive maneuver against Denmark or NATO in advance. The geographical location of Bornholm made it ideal for installing such a plant, since this territory is significantly farther east than the Danish mainland, hence closer to the Eastern Bloc and the Soviet Union.
Soon after the take over of the lighthouse by the Danish intelligence and the installation of the first technical gear, continuous improvement started around that facility, leading to the construction of a dedicated tower, which stood until the mid 1980s, and was extensively employed for gathering useful intelligence. Among the most notable information obtained in favor of NATO forces were the reports witnessing the preparation of an attack by the Warsaw Pact forces on Czechoslovakia, at the time of Dubcek’s attempted reformation of the communist system in 1968 – an invasion which eventually took place, tragically putting an end to a new political course in that Country.
The relevance of the site in Dueodde in the panorama of NATO intelligence is further shown by the decision to substantially upgrade the technical installation, demolishing the existing infrastructure and building anew a more modern and massive tower in 1986.
The new tower was operated continuously until 2012, when the installation was finally shut down, and the facility was partly demolished and sold. It is since then privately owned, and it has now reopened for visitors.
A visit allows to explore the foundations of the tower, where cables and pipelines – including compressed air and coolant fluid – can still be seen. Compressed air was employed for keeping in shape the special ‘shells’ where the technical stuff used to be put.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
These shells were arranged hanging vertically from the concrete tower, which is the only part remaining today (the shells are gone, you can see two of the original platforms in the courtyard, close to the original cooling station). Coolant fluid was employed for the big servers which hosted and processed data. A wind monitoring cabinet – made in USA – can be found at the ground level of the tower.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
By taking the original elevator, it is possible to climb to the top, where the view ranges in all directions, and allows to see the beautiful white dunes for which this area is mostly famous.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Inside the facility, mostly empty today, it is possible to see some remnants of the server rooms. Most of the empty rooms have been employed for a display of electronic cabinets and communication gear. A reconstruction of some of original technical rooms has been attempted, and the display is completed with historical pictures of the site.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Server rooms are among the preserved original parts of the tower.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Further rooms host displays related at large to WWII and the Cold War.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
An interesting addition to the visit is an original MiG-15, presented in the colors of the Polish Air Force, and resembling those which fled from Poland to Bornholm, at the commands of brave early Cold War defectors. Photographs and copies of newspapers documenting those episodes are on display.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Interestingly, what appears to be a control surface or the part of a wing of an authentic Soviet aircraft can be seen on the side of the display, likely only provisionally.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Scattered along the walls in the exhibition are original pictures, with close-ups of intercepted aircraft from the Soviet bloc.
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Bornholmertårnet – The Bornholm Tower – Cold War Intelligence Center NATO USSR
Getting there and visiting
The tower (Bornholmertarnet in the local idiom) is located close to the white dunes of the strand of Dueodde, on the very southeastern tip of the island, about 4 miles south of the major town of Nexø. The exact formal address is Strandmarksvejen 2 – 3730 Nexø. Large parking on site.
Visiting may take about 1 hour for the interested visitor. The tower can be climbed to the top with an elevator. Visiting the facility and exhibitions does not take much, since most rooms are basically empty.
The official website of this installation is here (multiple translations available).
Bornholm’s Technical Collection, Allinge
This incredible museum has been constituted through the merge of several private collections. In most cases they are very specialized selections of technical items. These range from tractors to airport vehicles, from pocket lighters to radios, from personal computers to naval radar scopes, and much more!
Besides well-stuffed collections, which strike for their size and range, there are also some specialties, like unusual items – typically relics or one-of-a-kind exemplars. Especially the latter include some items from the Cold War chapter of the history of Bornholm.
Actually, possibly the biggest item on display is a SAAB Draken aircraft. This excellent Swedish-made attack aircraft used to fly in the colors of the Danish Air Force (see this post). The exemplar on display comes with some of the accessories, including wing pods, the parachute for brake assistance, etc.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Close by the Draken, it is possible to find several aviation-related displays, like jet engines, optical gear, radar-receiving consoles. There is also the map of the scenic flights offered from an airport which does not exist any more, and which used to be close to the northern coast of the island (the only airport is today that in Rønne).
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
One of the jet engines looks like an evidence from an aircraft accident, involving a Learjet business jet crash-landed on Bornholm.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Not far from the Draken, another rare aircraft on display is a SAI KZIII, designed and manufactured in Denmark in 1946.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Further finds in the museum are a stop light, which was employed for stopping road traffic on local roads close to the runway, when an aircraft in need of a shallow approach path was landing in Rønne, and the doors originally in an airport building, with stickers of flight associations from all over the world.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
A military trailer with radio communication gear is on display, as well as an old truck, which happens to be the very same truck seen boarded by young Soviet soldiers, at the time of the Soviet occupation of Bornholm!
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
A little collection is made of GDR-made items.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
A small room is dedicated to marine detection gear and the corresponding scopes.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bulky elements on display include a one-of-a-kind locally assembled truck, a monster roadworks machine made in the Third Reich and which never returned to Germany, and trucks for removing snow from the road. They have two engines, one moving the truck, the other moving the spool. The arrangement is rather involved, with an articulated (angled!) shaft carrying mechanical power from the engine to the spool.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Airport gear includes a SAAB car with a runway friction tester in the back, and a truck for spreading anti-ice fluid.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Other rich hi-tech collections include one with radio receivers, another with cameras and video-recorders.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Even one centered on personal computer consoles can be found.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
The collection of tractors on display is really impressive, with machines coming from diverse nations and makers.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Other parts of the museum are basically old shops moved in, and in some cases with fully working machinery (like the blacksmith).
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
The list of collections is really huge! There is surely something for everybody on display.
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Bornholms Tekniske Samling – Bornholm’s Technical Collection – Relics from the Cold War, GDR and more
Getting there and visiting
The museum can be found in the countryside, on the road 159 connecting Rønne to Allinge-Sandvig, one of the biggest settlements on the northern coast, about 1.5 miles from the latter. The exact address is Borrelyngvej 48, 3770 Allinge-Sandvig. Large parking on the premises.
The museum is very peculiar, it features rich collections and it is run by knowledgeable people who are willing to provide descriptions and information also in English. A visit may appeal to everybody including children, and not only to war historians. However, it is duly listed here especially for the war- and aviation-related collections in it. A visit to the entire museum may easily take about 2 hours, especially when talking with the locals. Much less is needed for a quick look at just some parts of it.
Even though Stalin’s USSR finally withdrew from the occupied territory of Bornholm, the conquer of the island by the Soviets in 1945-46 meant the construction of a Soviet war cemetery, similar to those to be found scattered on the territory of the former countries of the Eastern bloc.
A very unassuming and rather intimate monument was inaugurated close to the local Danish graveyard in Allinge-Sandvig. By agreement with the local government, the cemetery is still maintained today.
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
Den Russiske Kirkegård Bornholm – Soviet War Cemetery
A central obelisk, with prominent emblems and writings in both Russian and Danish, is placed ahead of a large memorial stone, with the names of fallen Soviet soldiers on it.
Getting there and visiting
The cemetery can be conveniently reached uphill of the village of Allinge-Sandvig. The exact address is Pilegade 18A, 3770 Allinge-Sandvig. Parking is possible on the road in the immediate vicinity of the cemetery. The site is open-air and not fenced, therefore it can be accessed 24/7. Visiting may take 15 minutes.
German coastal gun site, Dueodde
The coastal guns in Dueodde, close to the southeastern corner of the island and the Cold War tower (see above), are not open as a museum, yet they are fairly easily accessible to the general public. They are the most sizable remains of the planned installation for four 38 cm coastal guns, part of the ambitious coastal defense program of the Third Reich known as Atlantic Wall. This particular fortress became pointless after the break-out of hostilities between Hitler’s Germany and the USSR in 1941, since the line of the front shifted significantly towards the east, far away from Bornholm. Since construction works were correspondingly halted, only the unfinished emplacements of two of the cannons remain today, respectively Nr.3 and Nr.4.
The emplacement Nr.3 is easily accessible from the road. You can see the large round base prepared for the revolving gun. The central pinion is still there (note the big diameter of the metal screws, compared with the cover of my wide lens!).
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
The circular corridor for moving the shells and taking them to the gun can be easily walked.
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
The construction to the north was planned to shelter the troops manning the station, as well as with a technical part for storing the shells and the explosive cartridges. Many rooms can be accessed – albeit a torchlight is mandatory in this area. However, they are completely empty, and there is nothing more than bare concrete.
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
The second site, Nr.4, is more secluded within a group of private homes. However, it can be accessed fairly easily by walking. It is basically a twin of the other emplacement, and the state of conservation (including, unfortunately, tons of stupid graffiti) is the same.
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Atlantic Wall Third Reich Coastal Guns Dueodde, Bornholm – German fortress
Getting there and moving around
The two emplacements are geographically extremely close to the Cold War tower described above. It is possible to park at the tower, in the large parking areas closer to the white dunes strand, or along the road in proximity to these installations.
The coordinates for parking and getting a quick access are for Nr.3: 55.00058432993301, 15.080803777073971, and for Nr.4: 55.00255210231893, 15.084640862385443.
Both sites are not fenced and accessible 24/7. Visiting may take 15 minutes for each of the emplacements – the condition is unfortunately not ideal, with many graffiti likely such to spoil your pictures.
The final battle for the conquer of Berlin was a massive operation carried out by the Soviet Red Army, who had come on the line of Oder river, marking today’s border between Germany and Poland, at the conclusion of the westward march on the territories of Eastern Europe previously taken over by the Third Reich.
Witnessing the dramatic lack of men and supplies on the German side, the final Soviet attack from that position was launched on April 16th, 1945, to end just less thank two weeks later with the death of Hitler, the conquer of Berlin, and soon after with the German capitulation in early May. In this short time, the Soviets penetrated and gained control of a significant part of what was to become the territory of East Germany, including the capital city of the Reich.
It is estimated that the troops amassed in the spring of 1945 for this operation exceeded 2.2 millions on the Soviet side, whereas the contingent available for the defense of the region on the German side was below 300 thousand men, including almost improvised corps of elders or extremely young people, lacking any military training and experience. As a matter of fact, the original German war machine had been drained of resources also due to the eastward advance of the Western Allies in Western Europe and Germany, where some millions German soldiers were taken prisoners. Actually, by April 1945 the line of the Western front had reached East to the towns of Leipzig, Dessau, Magdeburg and Wismar, very close to Berlin, and all later ceded to the Soviets according to the Jalta and Potsdam agreements.
The defense of Berlin from the Soviet attackers was strenuous though, and heavy losses were recorded on both sides.
One of the most visible remains of these war operations today is a a number of memorials and war cemeteries, of larger and smaller size, scattered over the territory around Berlin. The most conspicuous such memorials are those erected by the winning Soviet forces. Besides their primary role of remembrance, they were in most cases erected soon after the end of the war, then making for an interesting historical trace from that age, when Stalin was the undisputed ruler in the Soviet Union. Their style often reflects the mix of pomp and simplicity typical to the communist art from the time.
Memorials related to these events can be found in Berlin (see here and here) and around. Some to the north of the town have been described in this post. In the present one, three memorials related to the battle around Berlin and located east and south of the German capital are covered – Seelow, Lebus and Baruth.
Photographs were taken in 2021 and 2023.
Sights
Seelow
The memorial in Seelow was designed and installed in 1945, soon after the end of the war in Europe, and was therefore one of the first of the kind. The location is that of the Battle of the Seelower Heights.
The small town of Seelow is located about 8 miles west of the Oder river, marking a natural border with Poland. The hills around the town dominate the flat country reaching to the river. Therefore, for the defending Wehrmacht, this was a natural obstacle between the Soviet invaders and Berlin. The hills were fortified heavily with guns and mortars, and the villages in the area were evacuated in anticipation of a major confrontation.
Fighting was started on the fateful April 16th, 1945, when a Soviet attack was triggered all along the line of the Oder, with a major focal point in the region of Küstrin and Seelow.
The battle went on for four days despite the clear imbalance of resources in favor of the Soviets, due to the advantageous geographical position of the heights around Seelow and the effectiveness of the German defense.
The memorial was erected around a simple statue of a Soviet soldier, put on top of a pinnacle, and portrayed beside the turret of a tank.
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
To the base of the pinnacle is a small Soviet cemetery, with some marked graves and some gravestones with multiple names, or dedicated to unknown soldiers perished in the battle.
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
From the cemetery, a good view of the plains extending to the east, where this fierce battle was fought in April 1945, can be observed from a vantage point. Purpose-designed maps allow to retrace the positions of the attackers and to pinpoint relevant locations.
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
To the base of the monument is a memorial museum. The exhibition is compact but very interesting. Two thematic areas are presented, one related to the historical reconstruction of the battle, the other to the history of the monument and the archaeology of the battlefield around Seelow.
Among the artifacts on display related to the history of the battle are German and Soviet uniforms, machine guns and rifles.
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Interestingly, also mortar shells carrying leaflets are on display: these were employed by the Soviets, who launched propaganda leaflets inviting Germans to surrender, and even passes for the German military who wished to defect to the Soviets side. An armband of the ‘Deutscher Volkssturm Wehrmacht’, the non-professional corps recruited by the Third Reich in a desperate move to gather fresh units for the final defense of the German territory from invasion during the last stages of the war, is also on display.
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
The history of the monument is interesting as well, and shows how it evolved from being primarily a Soviet monument – like others in the area – to a public gathering place for official ceremonies in the German Democratic Republic – a place for the celebration of friendship between the USSR and the GDR. Historical pictures, and the addition of a poetic commemoration stone written in German only to the base of the monument, witness this evolution.
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Outside the museum, a courtyard is framed by two original small obelisks with inscriptions in Russian and Soviet iconography. On the courtyard, some heavy armored vehicles – including a Katyusha rocket launcher – are on display.
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen – Soviet Monument and Museum by the Seelower Heights – Germany
Getting there and visiting
The monument has a special relevance in the history of the liberation of Germany, and has been modernized and updated over the years. It is still a rather relevant destination for visitors. A ticket is required for the museum only. A visit to the monument may take 20-30 minutes. A complete visit including the museum may require 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Access is very easy, since the location is immediately to the side of the road leaving Seelow for Küstrin (now Kostrzyn, Poland). The name of the site in German is ‘Gedenkstätte Seelower Höhen’, and the address is Küstriner Straße 28a, 15306 Seelow. A small parking can be found right ahead of the access, further parking options cross the street and near the railway station, 1 minute away by walk. A new modern building to the side of the monument hosts the ticket office and a small shop. Website with full information here.
Lebus
The cemetery in Lebus, located on the German bank of the Oder river, about 10 miles southeast of Seelow (see above) was activated already in April 1945 for burying Soviet soldiers perished in the final war actions against Germany. Starting 1946, the status of Soviet cemeteries and monuments established on the territory of the Third Reich was officially defined. The Lebus site received Soviet staff perished in Germany after the war, or unrecognized fallen Soviet soldiers whose remains were found in the years soon after WWII on the East German territory.
Following an agreement between Russia and reunified Germany, extending the relationship formerly existing between the USSR and the GDR on the management of war memorials, the Lebus site became a Russian cemetery. It was refurbished in 2014-16, and at the time of writing it is still an active cemetery, often receiving the remains of Soviet soldiers moved from elsewhere, or still found in the area.
It is estimated that more than 5.000 from the USSR/Russia are buried in Lebus.
The memorial is not much visited by the general public, and is an authentic place of remembrance, sober and silent.
Russische Kriegsgräberstätte in Lebus – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Lebus – Germany
Russische Kriegsgräberstätte in Lebus – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Lebus – Germany
Russische Kriegsgräberstätte in Lebus – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Lebus – Germany
Russische Kriegsgräberstätte in Lebus – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Lebus – Germany
Russische Kriegsgräberstätte in Lebus – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Lebus – Germany
The architecture is rather simple, with a central perspective leading to an obelisk with a red star on top, a hammer and sickle emblem to the front, and inscriptions in Russian.
Russische Kriegsgräberstätte in Lebus – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Lebus – Germany
Russische Kriegsgräberstätte in Lebus – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Lebus – Germany
Russische Kriegsgräberstätte in Lebus – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Lebus – Germany
Russische Kriegsgräberstätte in Lebus – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Lebus – Germany
Russische Kriegsgräberstätte in Lebus – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Lebus – Germany
To the sides are two lateral wings, where the names of many fallen soldiers are inscribed on memorial stones.
Russische Kriegsgräberstätte in Lebus – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Lebus – Germany
Russische Kriegsgräberstätte in Lebus – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Lebus – Germany
To the sides of the perspective are an anti-tank cannon, and some more fields, marked with marble red stars as places of interment of unknown soldiers.
Russische Kriegsgräberstätte in Lebus – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Lebus – Germany
Russische Kriegsgräberstätte in Lebus – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Lebus – Germany
Russische Kriegsgräberstätte in Lebus – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Lebus – Germany
Also two further memorial walls with many names in Cyrillic alphabet are symmetrically placed to the sides of the perspective.
Russische Kriegsgräberstätte in Lebus – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Lebus – Germany
Russische Kriegsgräberstätte in Lebus – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Lebus – Germany
Russische Kriegsgräberstätte in Lebus – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Lebus – Germany
Getting there and visiting
The location of the Soviet cemetery in Lebus, now called officially ‘Russische Kriegsgräberstätte in Lebus’, is on Lindenstrasse, immediately after leaving Strasse d. Freiheit, Lebus. It is clearly marked by an indication sign, and recognizable by the external fence. Parking can be found 200 ft further north on Lindenstrasse, on the side of a local school.
The site is not mainly a touristic destination, but a real, well maintained (war) cemetery. It is apparently open 24/7 and not actively guarded. Visiting may take 20 minutes, or more for specifically interested subjects.
Baruth
The Soviet war cemetery of Baruth was erected between 1946 and 1947 for the fallen soldiers of the Battle of Halbe. The battle was a last confrontation between the Soviet Red Army and the Wehrmacht, taking between April 24th to the first days of May 1945 – the very last battle out of Berlin.
The battle was fought around the village of Halbe, south of Berlin, between what remained of the German defense retreating from the bank of the Oder, and two large columns of the invading Soviet Army. The German forces got mostly surrounded in a salient. Losses were very heavy on both sides, of the order of the tens of thousands.
The war cemetery for Soviet soldiers, the final resting place for some thousands of fallen troops, is clearly visible when passing by, thanks to the two T-34 tanks put as gate guardians.
Sowjetischer Ehrenfriedhof Baruth/Mark – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Baruth – Battle of Halbe – Germany
Sowjetischer Ehrenfriedhof Baruth/Mark – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Baruth – Battle of Halbe – Germany
Sowjetischer Ehrenfriedhof Baruth/Mark – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Baruth – Battle of Halbe – Germany
Sowjetischer Ehrenfriedhof Baruth/Mark – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Baruth – Battle of Halbe – Germany
Sowjetischer Ehrenfriedhof Baruth/Mark – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Baruth – Battle of Halbe – Germany
Sowjetischer Ehrenfriedhof Baruth/Mark – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Baruth – Battle of Halbe – Germany
Sowjetischer Ehrenfriedhof Baruth/Mark – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Baruth – Battle of Halbe – Germany
The architecture of the place is rather simple, and composed of a rectangular yard crossed by an alley, leading to a very tall obelisk. The obelisk features a big metal star on top, and a hammer and sickle metal emblem in the middle.
Sowjetischer Ehrenfriedhof Baruth/Mark – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Baruth – Battle of Halbe – Germany
Sowjetischer Ehrenfriedhof Baruth/Mark – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Baruth – Battle of Halbe – Germany
To the base of the obelisk are two bas-reliefs with war scenes.
Sowjetischer Ehrenfriedhof Baruth/Mark – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Baruth – Battle of Halbe – Germany
Sowjetischer Ehrenfriedhof Baruth/Mark – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Baruth – Battle of Halbe – Germany
Sowjetischer Ehrenfriedhof Baruth/Mark – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Baruth – Battle of Halbe – Germany
A number of marked gravestones can be found on the greens around the obelisk. More recent – yet pretty old – additions, somewhat altering the original neat appearance of the ensemble, include a wall with applied gravestones and names inscribed on it.
Sowjetischer Ehrenfriedhof Baruth/Mark – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Baruth – Battle of Halbe – Germany
Sowjetischer Ehrenfriedhof Baruth/Mark – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Baruth – Battle of Halbe – Germany
Sowjetischer Ehrenfriedhof Baruth/Mark – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Baruth – Battle of Halbe – Germany
Sowjetischer Ehrenfriedhof Baruth/Mark – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Baruth – Battle of Halbe – Germany
Sowjetischer Ehrenfriedhof Baruth/Mark – Soviet Monument and Cemetery Baruth – Battle of Halbe – Germany
Getting there and visiting
The Baruth war cemetery, named ‘Sowjetischer Ehrenfriedhof Baruth/Mark’ in German, can be found along the road 96 (Bundestrasse 96), about 1 mile north of the homonym town of Baruth. The monument can be clearly spotted on the eastern side of the road. A small parking can be found ahead of the entrance.
Due to the secluded and isolated location, the place is not a highly popular tourist destination, yet it is frequented by relatives and descendants of those interred on site. It is well cared for and perfectly maintained. It is apparently open 24/7.
A prototypical Soviet war cemetery from Stalin’s years, likely the largest in the region south Berlin, it is definitely worth a stop when visiting the area. A visit may take 20 minutes.
Notably, the place is located about 7 miles south of Wünsdorf (see this post), the former Soviet headquarters in the German Democratic Republic, which is crossed by the same road 96.
War actions in Scandinavia constitute a crucial stage in the unfolding of WWII events in Europe. The strategic position of the Scandinavian peninsula was not overlooked by strategists in the Third Reich and the USSR, and by the Western Allies. As a matter of fact, the German invasion of Denmark and Norway took place as early as the Spring of 1940, starting just weeks before the invasion of Holland, Belgium and France.
History & Remains – A Quick Summary
For Germany in WWII, the long and impervious coast of Norway constituted an ideal strong point to carry out raids over the North Sea, Norwegian Sea, the northern Atlantic and the Barents Sea, interfering with resupply convoys from Britain and the US. Especially after the start of the war against the USSR in 1941, the polar routes going to Murmansk – the only non-freezing port on the northern coast of the USSR – were within range of German warships and aircraft operating from the north of Norway. Control over Norway and Denmark meant total control on the access to the Baltic Sea, thus protecting the northern coast of Germany from direct attack by the Western Allies, allowing unimpeded action against the Soviet Union on that sea. Of the greatest importance in the northern European territory was also the abundance of raw materials – mainly metals for industrial production – so desperately needed by the Third Reich.
For the Allies, keeping Scandinavia was an objective of great relevance in the early stages of the war, since this territory could be a convenient springboard to launch attacks against the flat and easy coast of Germany. In the rapidly changing complex alliances and diplomatic relationships of the early stage of WWII (1939-40), Norway and Sweden tried to keep out of the war. Finland fought the Winter War against the USSR (itself one of the results of the Ribbentrop-Molotov pact, albeit not to the knowledge of the Finns), loosing part of its territory and strengthening its link with Germany for some years to come (see this post). The Third Reich attacked Norway by air and sea in April 1940, and help was sought especially in Britain. King Haakon VII of Norway left for exile in England, and the initial battles of WWII between the Reich and the UK were fought – mainly at sea – in proximity of Norwegian ports.
The Atlantic Wall
Possibly the most impressive military trace of WWII in Europe, the Atlantic Wall – a defense line stretching from France to northern Norway – was designed and built in Denmark and Germany, immediately following the successful push of the Third Reich into these Countries. Actually, those are the Countries where the most relevant remains of this interesting trace of war can be found today. A very ambitious project both in purpose and required resources, the Atlantic Wall never reached completion. Despite that, the geography of Norway, with a coastline featuring only limited access to the inland area, allowed to create an effective barrier against a potential enemy landing. Hundreds of gun batteries, complemented with anti-aircraft artillery and radars, constituted a powerful deterrent against any invasion. As a matter of fact, after the unique episode of the Battle of Narvik in the early stages of WWII, no Allied forces ever landed in Norway from the sea for the rest of the war.
A complete visit to all sites of the Atlantic Wall in Norway is a really immense task, due to the number of installations and their geographical remoteness. However, a few impressive highlights can be found in convenient locations, and can be easily visited by everybody. In this post some of them are presented – the colossal battery ‘Vara’, the southern fortified area of Lista, the forts of Fjell and Tellevik near Bergen, and the massive cannons of Austratt.
War Museums
But other fragments of the rich legacy of WWII in Norway can be retraced also away from the preserved installations of the Atlantic Wall. An interesting page is that of naval warfare deployed by the Navy of the Third Reich – the Kriegsmarine – to counter Allied shipping activities. Names like Tirpitz, Scharnhorst and Gneisenau are frequently found in history books as well as in movies or scale model shops, and they are just a few of the mighty vessels linked to the Scandinavian war theater. Dedicated exhibitions can be found in little but impressively rich museums on these topics. In this post, the Tirpitz Museum in Alta, the War Museum of Narvik and the exhibition in the visitor center of North Cape are covered.
Special interest sites
Heroic actions involving the Norwegian resistance organization are proudly remembered all over the Nation. A particularly interesting location being the Rjukan hydroelectric power-plant, which produced heavy water, a key-component in the research leading to the preparation of fissile material. This strategic asset was highly needed by the German nuclear program. On the other hand, its possession by the Third Reich was seen as a clear and present danger by the Allies, who tried to have the plant destroyed in several instances. The Norwegian resistance was clearly much involved in sabotage missions, due to the difficulty in targeting the place through air bombing raids. The power-plant is today a nice museum, covered in this post.
Photographs in this chapter were collected on a visit in August 2022.
Sights
The map below shows the location of the sites mentioned in this chapter. Their listing in the descriptions roughly follows a clockwise sense, starting from the southernmost point of Kristiansand (Vara battery). Red items are in disrepair, whereas blue ones are official tourist destinations.
The Vara battery was built as the core of the strongly fortified area around Kristiansand. Thanks to its position close to the southernmost tip of the Norwegian territory, this port town is still today very busy with passenger and freight traffic from nearby Denmark.
The Third Reich military started to lay sea mines as soon as it gained control of both sides of the Skagerrak strait. The coast around Kristiansand was reinforced with several coastal artillery pieces, and production of a set of special 38 cm caliber guns – called Siegfried -was started by the Krupp ironworks in Essen in 1940. The aim was that of controlling access to the Baltic sea by means of two batteries of long-range naval guns, one to the south in Denmark (Hanstholm, see here), and one to the north in Kristiansand.
The cannons should be capable of revolving by 360 degrees, and special concrete rotundas were prepared for the scope in a location called Møvik, on the southwestern end of the gulf of Kristiansand. The complex morphology of the terrain in this site led to a smaller than desirable area for the battery, where all technical buildings – including ammo storages – had to be built relatively close to one another. These massive constructions alone, built by the same ‘Organisation Todt’ responsible for the implementation of the coastal defense positions all over Europe, make for a remarkable work of engineering, carried out with the help of local builders, working relentlessly around the clock to have these emplacements ready as soon as possible.
In the event, only three of the four Siegfried cannons made their way to the battery in Kristiansand, one being apparently lost when the transport ship carrying it was sunk on the Baltic Sea. Transporting these 110 ton, around 60 ft long barrels by rail from Germany into the narrow valleys of Scandinavia was not an easy task. However, two cannons were test-fired in May 1942, and the third in November the same year.
The battery received the name ‘Vara’, after a high-ranking official killed in Guernsey in 1941.
Battery Vara went through the war without seeing an involvement in any major war action, and was mainly test-fired only. The whole installation, comprising target detection points, analog computers for target aiming, ammo storages – including more than 1.400 shells! – and many other service buildings, was inherited intact by the Norwegian Armed Forces in 1945, similar to many other installations along the coast of the Skagerrak and the North Sea. It was incorporated in the Norwegian coastal artillery between 1946 and 1954, being later placed in reserve having by then become obsolete for Cold War warfare standards. Two cannons were scrapped, whereas one – the only entirely surviving battery Nr. 2 – was luckily kept. The site survived subsequent stages of demolition works over the next decades, but in the early 1990s it was finally re-opened as a museum.
Cannon Nr. 2
Today, the centerpiece of the visit is constituted by a walk around the perfectly preserved building of cannon Nr.2. This bunkerized building is composed of a set of technical rooms, for ammo assembly and storage, as well as for services like Diesel power generators, and an adjoining rotunda, where the big cannon revolved around a pinion, and could be pointed to its target, following instructions from the battery control center. The latter elaborated target data from detection, identification, measuring and range-finding positions scattered around the battery perimeter.
Access to the back of the concrete building is via the original hatch, closed by iron doors. You can see the narrow-gauge railway track leading in. This linked the cannon buildings with the ammo storages around, and allowed to supply the cannon with ammo parts (the explosive cartridge and the shell are not assembled in a single unity for larger cannons, unlike for lighter weapons). The hatch drives you into a long corridor, the backbone of the bunkerized quarters behind the cannon rotunda. Here some shells have been put on the original railway trolley for display.
The cannon building hosted a permanent watch of a few men, which manned it permanently in shifts. A living room with some berths is the only one offering some comfort in the building.
A number of rooms in the bunker are dedicated to the power generator plant. A primary and a back-up generator share the same room. Of special interest are the labels on all machines and mechanisms, proudly made in Germany – in some cases, by brands still existing today.
Electric power was required for the motion of the cannon, besides for smaller appliances like lights and radios. The cannons could make use of the regional grid, but since an unstable supply might have damaged the cannon motors, aiming operations were often carried out on the controlled internal power grid, fed by the generators, and producing an optimal output.
Beside the generator room, the air conditioning plant (not for comfort, but to slightly pressurize the bunker in order to repel and pump-out poisonous or exhaust gas), the Diesel tank and the water tank for cooling the generator can be seen in adjoining rooms.
To the far end of the corridor, a radio room was used to maintain a link with the battery command post, located more than 1 mile away from Vara battery. Actually, by design the electric signals to orient the cannon could be given by the control post, and the radio communication system was there for backup.
On the other side of the corridor with respect to the generator rooms – i.e. towards the cannon rotunda – are four adjoining rooms, used to store the components of the explosive cartridges and shells. The shells and cartridges prepared for firing were moved via a crane to a tray, and from there sent side-wards to the rotunda, where they were loaded on a trolley. The cranes, trays and slots linking these rooms to the rotunda can be found around the area of the bunker closer to the rotunda.
The cranes moved along tracks hanging from the ceiling. These tracks had some switch points, allowing to allow the crane to move across different rooms in the bunker.
Inside these rooms, today you can find much original material of special interest. Specimens of high-explosive (yellow) and armor-piercing (blue) shells are displayed. The weight of the shells was around 800 kg, where the cartridge could feature different weights, roughly from 100 to 200 kg.
The top range of these cannons and shells was around 43 km. Smaller 500 kg shells could alternatively be fired by Siegfried cannons, with a longer range of 55 km. Furthermore, the cannon could be test-fired during drills with smaller caliber shots, by reducing the bore of the cannon. This was a very useful feature, since the estimated loss of barrel metal due to attrition was a staggering 0.25 kg per shot, implying a life of the barrel of only around 250-300 shots, firing with sufficient accuracy. Shooting smaller shells allowed to spare barrel wear and extend the time between overhauls of the cannon.
The sealed canisters for the explosive cartridges, with original markings in German, can still be seen piled in a room!
More material on display includes a rare example of fire direction computer. Actually, that on display is smaller than the one originally used for the long-range cannons of Vara battery, but it provides a good idea of the level of sophistication of this mechanism. Data like target distance, velocity, orientation, wind speed and direction, etc. were set as input to this analog computer, producing fire direction variables to point the cannon. An incredible masterpiece of engineering and craftsmanship, this type of computer is difficult to find in museums, and allows to appreciate the level of development of warfare back in the 1940s.
Data including range of the target was found with the help of special instrumentation. A stereoscopic range-finder was installed in the battery command post, with an arm of 12 m, which allowed good accuracy for very distant targets – required for the long range of the cannons of Vara battery. Smaller instruments with the same principle are displayed in one of the rooms.
Among the special features of this bunkerized building are the restored, original writings from German times, as well as a one-of-a-kind painting made by a Soviet prisoner of war.
From the bunkerized room, you can get access to the rotunda. Cartridges put on trolleys moved along a circular railway track all around the rotunda. This way, cartridges could be taken to the cannon whatever the direction it was pointing. Once to the base of the cannon turret, the explosive charge and the shell were lifted separately by means of two special elevators, up to the level of the gun shutter.
An impressive feature of the rotunda is the ring cover for the circular railway. In order to protect the railway passage from above, while allowing the cannon to rotate, a roof made of thick metal scales was implemented. When revolving around the pinion, the cannon turret would automatically lift the scales on its passage. The sound of the scales being lifted and released while the cannon body was revolving must have been really an experience!
Here the back of the barrel dominates the relatively large firing chamber. The shutter has been left open, so you can see the sunlight through the barrel.
The shell and explosive charge were received from the two elevators on a special tray, and here they were finally aligned one before the other. Somewhat in contrast to the top-notch technology level of the installation, the cartridge had to be pushed from the back into the barrel by hand. A long wooden stick was used for the task. Actually, it was so long that it protruded from the back of the cannon turret, thus requiring a small hatch to be pierced in the metal armor correspondingly. On one side of the barrel, instrumentation for measuring the pointing direction is still in place.
The position of cannon Nr.1 was prepared unusually close to that of Nr.2. As said, this was due to the limited available area on the uneven coast section where the battery was put in place. However, Nr.1 never received a cannon. Conversely, it was modified later in the war, when experimenting with cannon protection from air-dropped high-yield bombs. The rotunda was capped with a very thick concrete roof, sustained by sidewalls which limited the side-wards rotation of the cannon to 120 degrees.
The rotunda can be walked freely. The central pinion is still in place. Inside, the ceiling is covered in original metal panels. The round corridor for the trolleys can still be seen, but there is no access left to the bunkerized part.
Following the railway around the site is a great way to find what remains today of the original installation. There are two bulky ammo storages. These were reportedly more thickly armored than usual, in view of a higher risk of getting hit, due to the unusual proximity with the cannons – designated targets for the enemy.
Furthermore, other smaller buildings are scattered around, which may have served as storage for lighter weapons.
The positions of cannons Nr. 3 and Nr. 4 have been largely demolished, and access is permanently shut to the bunkerized part. However, you can easily climb to the top level, to get a nice view of the rotunda.
Vara is in the top-five list of the most famous surviving installations of the Atlantic Wall in Europe, and a visit to this destination is in itself a good reason for a detour to Norway for war historians and like-minded people. Due to its proximity to the port of Kristiansand, just minutes apart by car, and the relatively easy-to-reach location in the most populated part of Norway, it is also a top destination for any tourist in the area. As a matter of fact, the place is run as a top-level museum, with great reception capability, and is visited by thousands of visitors per year.
Visiting can be performed on a self-guided basis, with an explanation leaflet which allows to get much from your visit, especially if you are not new to installations of the Atlantic Wall (which are mostly standardized, despite Vara having really oversized guns!). A tour of the main features – cannon Nr.2 and the building of Nr.1 – may take 1 hour at least, for an averagely interested person. For an in-depth visit and a quick tour of the premises including other remains, more than 2 hours are needed. Thanks to the exceptional level of conservation and the explanation of whatever is on display, the visit is not boring and may be very rewarding even for younger people.
Large parking on site, picnic tables and warm reception are available – as usual in Norway! Website with full information here.
Nordberg & Marka Batteries – Farsund
Located in the southwestern corner of the Norwegian territory, about 100 miles south of the port of Stavanger, the municipality of Farsund encompasses a number of small coastal villages, around the landmark represented by the lighthouse of Lista.
Two batteries were set up by the German occupation forces as part of the Atlantic wall, both fully operative by 1942. The northern one is called Nordberg fort, where the southern one, very close to the shore line, is known as Marka fort. Between the two, the Germans installed a full-scale airbase, with a runway of roughly 1.5 km, complemented by hangars and shelters largely standing today. Following the end of WWII and the withdrawal of the German military, all these installations were converted for military use by the Norwegian armed forces, which also developed the original airfield into a more modern airbase by stretching the runway.
Today, Nordberg fort is a museum. The German Navy was in charge of the station, which had as centerpieces three 150 mm cannons, with a range of around 23 km. The cannons have been scrapped (with the exception of a lighter piece of Russian make). However, the firing positions are still there, linked by a semi-interred trench.
You can see also the original control point for the battery, developed by the Norwegians more recently, and the concrete base for a radar antenna originally on site.
Several original buildings for services – canteen, hospital,… – are still there, making for a an interesting opportunity to see how this installation looked like back in the 1940s.
The Marka fort was assembled around six 150 mm guns, located very close to the sea, grouped in two batteries of three firing positions each. A huge bunkerized command post was built in the premises of the fort. Today, after the Norwegian military left at the end of the Cold War, the Marka battery is basically a ghost site, despite being still in a relatively good shape.
The control bunker is especially interesting, since you can access the top level and watch the sea from the very same room and windows originally used by the German Navy troops! The general arrangement of the bunker is similar to other command posts you can find on the Atlantic Wall – especially in Denmark (see here).
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
The positions for the coastal guns can be reached close to the control bunker. They are uncovered round areas, slightly below the level of the ground, framed by a circular reinforced sidewall.
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
More Atlantic Wall remains, like bunkers, foundations for radar stations, or emplacements for lighter guns, can be be found scattered in the area of Farsund – which kept its military site status well after the Germans had left.
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Marka Battery Lista Farsund – Atlantic Wall – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The museum of Nordberg keeps some of the buildings on the respective site open. However, the majority of the site is open 24 hours, and can be walked freely. A visit may take about 1 hour. A convenient parking can be found right ahead of the modern and welcoming visitor center, from where you can effortlessly reach most of the points of interest in this installation. Website with full information here.
The site of Marka – not part of any museum – can be approached at any time with some walking in the rural area along the coast line. A good starting point for an exploration is here, where you can leave your car and move along an easy trail to the command bunker and the gun rotundas about 0.5 miles west.
Fjell Fortress – Bergen
Bergen was a strategic base of the German Navy, which received a fortified submarine deck among the largest, most active and longest lasting in the history of WWII. The complex morphology of the territory around this port town allowed to effectively protect the access by means of a network of nine firing emplacements. One of them – Fjell – was of exceptional power and range.
It was built between 1942-43 diverting one of the batteries of battleship Gneisenau, which had been damaged beyond repair by an air raid while in port at Kiel (Germany). The battery was composed of three 28 cm guns in a single turret. The latter was very compact in design, a real masterpiece of naval engineering, but nonetheless it featured a rather tall substructure, with all that was needed to operate the guns – protruding from the relatively sleek top of the turret, surfacing on the ground.
Placing this special battery in Fjell required carving the rocky coast, creating a cylindrical underground pit, inside coated with concrete, to host the turret. The turret, an assembly of around 1.000 tonnes with the guns on top, was then transported up to this elevated site, and lowered into the pit. The battery was test fired in the mid of 1943. It acted as an effective deterrent, and reportedly never used in combat.
The battery was incorporated in the Norwegian coastal defense after WWII, and sadly scrapped in 1968, since by then obsolete, but not yet considered an historical landmark.
Clearly, the battery was in the middle of an off-limits military area in wartime, where bunkers for several services and for the the troops, at least two radar antennas and many emplacements for lighter defensive weapons were installed to protect the battery from ground and air attacks.
Today, the bunker-pit where the turret used to rest is the centerpiece of a visit to the site. Starting from the visitor center on top, where the guns used to be, you can descend to the base of the cylindrical pit – roughly 30 ft in diameter and 75 in depth! Here you can see the rooms originally employed for storing the explosive cartridges and the shells for the cannons. These were supplied on trolleys and slides, and sent inside the metal turret, to be lifted up to the level of the cannons for firing.
Most of the original German mechanical and electrical systems is still there to see, including wiring, phones, cranes, trolleys, and examples of shells and cartridges.
Back then, you got access to these storage areas from an entrance on the same level (i.e. not from the top of the turret, but from the base). You can see this entrance, as well as the curved corridor leading from the gate to the ammo storage area. Here, examples of sea mines and other war material can be found. The corridor has narrow-gauge railway track, which was used for resupplying the ammo storage from outside.
The corridor is curved, and firing positions are strategically placed to cover it, in order to counter enemy intrusion.
The bunker gives access to the living quarters for the troops. These are well preserved, and feature brick walls to help insulating the inside from the wet rock of the walls and ceilings.
Services, like toilets, sauna, washing machines and more, are original from the German tenancy. Especially the water basins appear very stylish, a good example of German design from the era.
Besides the main turret bunker, as said the Fjell site offers other constructions on a vast area, which can be checked out from the outside – also since the premises are at least formally military grounds still today.
The road reaching the site from the parking, gently climbing uphill, is reportedly the original main access to the Third Reich site. An interesting tank-stopping device can be seen to the lower end of the road – heavy stones on top of light pillars on the sides of the road. The pillars could be blown, and the stones would fall cutting the road, in case of a potential intrusion.
The fort of Fjell, about 15 miles west of central Bergen, is professionally run as a museum. Parking is only possible to the base of the cliff where the turret used to stand. From there, a 0.8 miles road climbs to the entrance. The scenic location and the nice rural area around make for an enjoyable walk. Visiting inside is only possibly on guided tours, offered also in English (an possibly other languages). A small restaurant can be found on top, where an observation deck has been built in place of the battery.
The location of the parking is here. A visit may take around 45 minutes, excluding the time needed to climb uphill and descend to the parking. Website with full information here.
Tellevik Fort – Bergen
The coastal fort of Tellevik, on the eastern head of the Norhordland Bridge, 15 miles north of Bergen, was part of the lighter defense artillery put in place by the German military to defend any access by water to Bergen. The battery was built by order of the Third Reich, profiting from the forced labor of Soviet prisoners of war.
Lighter howitzers were enough to cover the narrow water passages in proximity of the town. The elevation of the emplacement is low, slightly above the water surface.
The battery of Tellevik was centered on two such howitzers, placed on open-top positions. The two guns can be seen still today, on round concrete firing positions. The giant bridge today largely obstructing the field of sight was not there at the time of the German occupation.
A monument to Norwegian seamen victims to sea mines laid by the German to protect the access to Bergen is concurrently located on the site of the Tellevik battery.
Tellevik is an open air memorial, which can be walked freely 24/7. It can be reached by inputting these coordinates to a GPS navigation app.
A visit may take about 15 minutes, a nice detour from exceptionally crowded downtown Bergen.
Austrått Fortress – Austrått
Similar to Bergen, the major port of Trondheim was a strategic base for the German Navy. Protected by a long firth, the port was an ideal base for submarines and warships, to intercept convoys in the North Sea, Norwegian Sea, the Atlantic Ocean and the Barents Sea. Correspondingly, a number of coastal forts was prepared by the German occupation forces to counter any unauthorized access to the waterways leading to Trondheim.
The most powerful and impressive of these batteries is the Austratt Fort. Similar to the fortress of Fjell near Bergen (see above), Austratt received one of the turrets of the ill-fated battleship Gneisenau, damaged while moored in Kiel, in February 1942. A control and aiming position was put in place a few miles apart along the coast, whereas the battery was surrounded by an off-limits area, stuffed with bunkers for the troops, ammo storage bunkers, and lighter guns for protection against an attack by land.
A major difference between the two ‘sister sites’ of Fjell and Austratt is that in the latter the cannons are still there!
Following the installation of the turret, test fired in September 1943, the fort saw little action, acting as a deterrent, and effectively preventing any serious intrusion by the Allies towards Trondheim from the sea. After the demise of the Third Reich, the fort was taken over by the Norwegian coastal defense, stricken off in 1968, and restored as a museum in the early 1990s.
The cannons are on top of a hill. From the outside, the massive three-barreled turret is really impressive in size!
The barrels can be seen besides the original range-finder – with its impressive arm, granting good measuring accuracy even at a large distance from the target. This item, with its bell-shaped cover, was originally part of the control point, located southwest of the battery, in a location currently very close to an active base of the Norwegian Air Force (Orland).
Despite access to the the firing chamber being possible through a hatch to the back of the turret, the tour follows the way a shell would travel from storage to firing. Hence you start your tour from an entrance to the side of the hill, at the same level of the bottom of the cylindrical tower supporting the guns. This metal tower was taken from the Gneisenau together with the cannons, and put in a pit carved in the rock for the purpose in Austratt.
Access through the side of the hill is protected by a smaller gun. Once inside, you find yourself in a curvy corridor, with a narrow-gauge railway track for the trolleys needed to carry the shells and cartridges inside. A firing position behind an embrassure points against the entrance, for further protection of the site against an intrusion.
The bunker in Austratt – but the same happened to many installations of the Atlantic Wall in Norway – was plagued with severe humidity problems. Immediately besides the entrance, a room with a water basin is fed by natural water dripping from the ceiling and from the rocky walls around.
Original machines for tooling, put in place for maintenance purposes back in the Third Reich years, are still there and working. Similarly, a primary and a backup Diesel generators supplying the fort are still in place, with all ancillary plants, like big Diesel and water tanks for cooling. This is original machinery too, as witnessed by the tags of the mechanical components, all made in Germany.
Living quarters were at the bottom level too. Trying to supply some comfort, the rocky walls were covered with bricks and wood, especially against humidity. These rooms have been partly refurbished with a good resemblance to the original ones. They include the kitchen and some of the sleeping quarters for the troops. However, since humidity was really extreme, troops spent limited time here especially for sleeping, and provisional barracks were built outside of the installation instead.
Hygienic services were reportedly extremely advanced compared to Norwegian standards of the time. Fully working toilets, lavatories and showers were taken as a blueprint by the Norwegian Army after the war. The electric water heater put in place in the Austratt battery was apparently among the first installed in the whole Country – it can still be seen.
Explosive cartridges, fuses and shells arriving from the bunker entry you have walked through at the beginning of your tour would be eventually lifted upstairs. Shells, either high-yield explosive or armor-piercing, would be stored in a chamber featuring cranes hanging from the ceiling, used to put the shells on trolleys. These trolleys transported the shells to the lower level of the turret. The chamber where the shells were stored is physically separated by the turret by means of a concrete wall.
Tight compartments are often found in war bunkers of the Atlantic Wall, and this can be explained by the fact that the deadliest effect of an enemy shot (either a cannon shell from a warship, or an air-dropped bomb) would be that of an overpressure wave (shockwave), capable of killing many in just moments. Overpressure effects can be effectively reduced by putting physical obstacles on the way the shockwave would travel – walls, tight doors, etc. – or by forcing it into smaller passages, like hatches or smaller doors and windows. Therefore, bunkers like Austratt are built in rather small rooms, connected only through narrow hatches and doors.
Again in the storage chamber for the shells, extensive writing in German can be found on many of the mechanisms and electric plants. Everything is original and exceptionally well conserved, just like the Germans had just left!
The lowest level of the turret, where the shells would arrive from the storage chamber to be loaded on elevators going to the upper levels, is a masterpiece of engineering. The technical problem here was that of connecting the slides from the storage chamber, which are anchored to the ground, to the receiving slides on the turret, which could pivot around 360 degrees. The designer of the turret solved the issue by placing an intermediate ring, revolving independently, and capable of connecting the fixed slides from the storage chamber to the revolving platform on the turret. The extremely compact size of the overall design, originally prepared for fitting into a warship, and the elegance and precision of the mechanism resemble those of a pocket watch from the 1920s more than a cannon!
On the turret, you can see three elevators for the three barrels, which were therefore fed independently.
Going upstairs, you meet the storage room for the explosive cartridges. These used to be stored in sealed canisters on display, original from the time. This storage room is placed to the side of the corresponding level in the turret, in a similar fashion to the shells storage below.
Climbing up one more level inside the turret, you reach a platform with the motors for moving the battery around its vertical axis, and for lifting or lowering the three monster barrels. The motion involved high-pressure mechanisms, rather complex and requiring many valves and extensive piping.
To the back of each of the barrels, you can see a large empty volume for recoil. The battery rested on a ball bearing – one of the pretty sizable metal balls is on display.
Finally, the firing chamber can be found on the top level in the turret. Here the shells and cartridges were received, aligned and loaded from the back into the barrels by a pushing mechanical arm. Three independent mechanisms were put in place for the scope in the firing chamber.
You can exit the turret from the hatch to the back of the turret, concluding your tour. In the video below you can see a portrait of the battery from the air, made with a drone.
All in all, similar to the Vara battery (see above), Austratt is in an exceptional state of conservation in the Norwegian and European panorama of artillery engineering from WWII, and a visit may be super-interesting for any public.
Visiting
Despite being relatively close to Trondheim on a map, as usual in Norway, Austratt is a more than two hours drive from the town, and reaching requires taking at least one ferry. However, as noted, this location is a pinnacle in the Atlantic Wall, and surely deserves a visit for technicians and non-technical public as well, and of course for the kids.
Access to the exterior is possible at any time, but visiting inside is only possible on guided tours. The guide is very knowledgeable and makes the visit interesting also for a technically-minded public. The visit inside may take around 1 hour, more if you make questions and show some interest. Convenient parking by the gate of the fort, easy access to the area around the battery. Moving inside can be requiring for non-fit people.
As pointed out in the introduction to this chapter, Norway is rich of memorials from WWII. Even close to some of the attractions in this wonderful Country which are must-see stops for other reasons, features recalling memories from war actions are offered to a curious eye.
Two notable examples are the visitor center of the Arctic Circle along the E6, as well as that of North Cape.
Scandinavia has been a bloody and extremely active theater of war all along WWII, and Norway was directly involved in significant war actions since the first year of the conflict. As a matter of fact, most of the impressive line of fortifications constituting the Atlantic Wall was erected by deploying forced laborers, typically prisoners of war from the Eastern Front, primarily including Russians, other people from the USSR, and Balkan prisoners.
Soviet troops attacked the northernmost German-occupied region from the North, together with the Finns, after the latter negotiated a separate peace with the USSR in late 1944. The retreating Germans opposed a fierce resistance, and it was in this latest stage of the war that most physical damage to towns and installations was caused in Norway, since German troops were ordered to burn up all positions they had to leave.
These facts explain the many Soviet monuments and war cemeteries scattered especially in the northern part of Norway still today – commemorating Soviet soldiers fallen either in war actions or as prisoners of war in the harsh conditions of northern Norway.
One such monument, albeit overlooked, is prominently placed besides the visitor center of the Arctic Circle.
Soviet Memorial – Arctic Circle Visitor Center – WWII – Norway
Soviet Memorial – Arctic Circle Visitor Center – WWII – Norway
Soviet Memorial – Arctic Circle Visitor Center – WWII – Norway
The interest of Germany for Norway was primarily for its strategic position, which became an asset of special value after the start of the war against the USSR in mid-1941. The convoys feeding vital material to the USSR from Britain and the US had to go to Murmansk (see here) and the Kola Peninsula, i.e. over the Barents Sea. This was conveniently controlled by the German occupants, operating from the Norwegian coast.
In the visitor center of North Cape some panels are dedicated to this topic, showing an impression of the structure and routes followed by Allied convoys going to the USSR.
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Detailed panels with maps and pictures recall the last battle of the German battleship Scharnhorst, which was confronted by the group of the British battleship HMS Duke of York, in an epic battle relatively close to North Cape. The massive German battleship, deployed to Norway with Tirpitz (a sister ship of the famous Bismarck) to block the resupply traffic to the USSR, was hit several times and finally sunk in the freezing last days of 1943. The battle was posthumously named ‘Battle of North Cape’. A detailed scaled model of the German battleship is similarly on display in the visitor center.
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Polar Convoys to the USSR & Scharnhorst Exhibition – North Cape – Nordkapp – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The visitor center of the Arctic Circle on the road E6, with a small Soviet monument, can be found here. The monument is open 24/7.
The visitor center of North Cape is… at North Cape! The inside can be accessed during opening times, and the tables with information on WWII convoys and battles are on an underground mezzanine. Website with full information here.
War Museum – Narvik
The port town of Narvik was founded in the 19th century as a commercial base for exporting iron ore from Sweden. A small town by the sea, surrounded by steep-climbing mountains, and in a remote location well north of the Arctic Circle, Narvik was turned for about two months into a though theater of war for the Germans, following their occupation of Norway.
It was here that the British started a battle to stop the German push to the north, as soon as the 10th of April 1940, basically at the same time as the Germans had reached the town during their conquering campaign.
What resulted was a complex, multi-stage operation, lasting until early June 1940.
At first, the British fleet mounted a naval attack, carried out with a flotilla of five destroyers. This force clashed with the local German complement of ten destroyers. The British operation met with mixed success, and was finally repelled by the German navy operating in the narrow waters around Narvik, at the price of two destroyers on each side – plus several cargo ships destroyed in the battle. Three days later, on the 13th of April, a new force, composed of the British battleship HMS Warspite and 9 destroyers, launched another assault, resulting in the complete loss of the German destroyers fleet in the region – German warships were either sunk or scuttled.
The Germans however kept control of the town. A mixed force of British, Polish and French troops, together with the Norwegians, started an operation to conquer the town by land. The operation was successful, and the German troops had to retreat along the coast, away from Narvik. However, the start of the Battle of France – the invasion of France by the Third Reich – on the 10th of May, 1940, resulted in a rapid loss of priority of Narvik as a strategic target for the Allies. It was decided in Britain to withdraw from Norway, and to evacuate all previously landed military forces from Narvik. The town fell under German control on June 8th, basically concluding the conquer of Norway by the Third Reich.
The Allied landings around Narvik in 1940 where the first on the European continent in WWII, carried out without the participation of the US, more than three years before operations in southern Italy or Normandy.
The town of Narvik is still today an active commercial port of primary relevance in the region. The heritage of war actions is preserved in a purpose-installed museum, modernly designed and easy to visit.
On a first floor, the naval operations around Narvik are described by means of technological 3D board with virtual projections – very nice and lively. Around the board, memorabilia from the British and German warships taking part to the operations back in the Spring of 1940 have been put on display.
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
They include an original Nazi eagle from one of the ships. Since the campaign around Narvik included also air and land operations, war traces including parts of aircraft, guns, mortars, machine guns, first-aid kits and many uniforms are also on display.
Uniforms are from the many corps which took part to those actions – they are British, German, Polish and even French.
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
On a second floor, you are offered displays of artifacts retracing other aspects of WWII in Norway. These include land mines – put in place by the Germans along the coast, similar to Denmark, to impede Allied landings – an Enigma coding machine, Third Reich memorabilia, a section of the Tirpitz armored hull, radio machinery supplied to the resistance, as well as personal items belonging to former prisoners of war.
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
Finally, on the last floor heavier weapons are put on display, including torpedoes, light armored vehicles and more, even for post-WWII times.
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
War Museum Narvik – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The battle of Narvik is one of the best known from WWII in Norway, and the little museum in the town center duly retraces its timeline, through an elegant exhibition, sufficiently rich to satisfy even the most exigent experts, but not so extensive to be boring for the general public. A really well designed museum, surely worth a visit, which may last from 30 minutes to 1 hour depending on your level of interest.
The location is right besides the town hall, and can be found here. Parking opportunities on the street nearby. Website with information here.
Tirpitz Museum – Alta
The German battleship Tirpitz was laid down as the only sister ship to the well-known Bismark. Eventually, she underwent developments which made her the heaviest battleship built in Europe. Her actions were concentrated along a limited time frame, between January 1942 and November 1944, when she was finally sunk by British Lancaster bombers, making use of Tallboy high-yield bombs.
She spent her operative life along the coasts of Norway, where she constituted an effective deterrent against a sea-launched Allied invasion, and was employed tactically against resupply convoys going to the USSR.
Tirpitz was a strategic target for the Allies, which tried to get rid of her by no less than seven war operations, meeting with limited success until the last one.
With an armor more than 30 cm thick, Tirpitz was marginally maneuverable especially at lower speed, but the hull was very difficult to penetrate, and the four turrets and eight 38 cm barrels, plus twelve side-shooting 15 cm barrels, complemented by many more defensive weapons, made it a dangerous asset against land and sea targets.
The ship capsized and sunk in shallow water in the bay of Tromso, and following the end of the war, she was largely dismantled. Original pieces of the ship could be collected, as well as some personal belongings from the crew. Some more were taken out from the water over the years.
The museum in Alta is dedicated to the memory of the ship, and offers an extremely rich collection of items connected with Tirpitz. Furthermore, by means of memorabilia items, it retraces the history of the war years in the northernmost region of Norway – Finnmark. The reason for installing the Tirpitz Museum in Kåfjord, near Alta, is bound to the fact that the battleship was based here for a period, as witnessed by some historical pictures. The museum has a rich guestbook, which includes top-ranking military staff from several Countries.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
The small museum is home to some of the finest and largest scales models portraying Tirpitz. The level of detail and the accuracy of the reconstruction is really stunning.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Some smaller diorama models portray scenes from the life onboard, or details of special interest. An unusual one portrays the capsized hull of the ship, following the sinking!
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Besides the scale models, original instrumentation, shells, wooden slabs from the deck, and more parts of the ship are put on display.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
A room is dedicated to the operations carried out against the battleship. The ship was reportedly attacked several times without substantial damage. One of the attacks was carried out by the British, recurring to mini-submarines. Among the artifacts on display are the decorations to the men involved in these operations.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Extremely interesting artifacts in the museum include material from the crew, taken away after the sinking over the years – sometimes found in the area as recently as the year 2000.
These include typewriters, cutlery with swastika emblems, musical instruments, sport suits with prominent Third Reich insignia, and many personal belongings.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
In one case, the cabinet or wallet of a crewman revealed cash and stamps from the time.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Among the countless items in this exhibition are original material – including radio stations – employed by the resistance movements in Norway, as well as light weapons, uniforms and decorations of the Soviet troops who operated in the Finnmark region, helping in repelling the Germans in the last stages of WWII.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
On the outside, the anchor and parts of the armor of Tirpitz can be seen, together with an official memorial stone.
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Tirpitz Battleship Museum Alta – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The museum is located some five miles from Alta, in the small settlement of Kåfjord. It is hosted in a single, small wooden building – possibly a former canteen – to be found here, with a small parking nearby. A website with full visiting information is here.
Visiting the museum may take from 30 minutes to 1 hour depending on your level of interest.
Vemork Hydroelectric Power Plant & Heavy Water Facility – Rjukan
The nuclear program of the Third Reich is still today a matter for researchers, since – mysteriously enough – most documentation disappeared by the end of the war. Among the ascertained facts were the excellence of nuclear scientist in Germany at the time on the one hand, and the total lack of adequate quantities of raw material, or plants for processing it, to actually build real nuclear weapons on the other.
The latter is witnessed by the great strategic value attributed to the plant in Rjukan, hidden in a scenic deep valley in the region of Telemark, in southern Norway, about three hours by car from Oslo. A hydroelectric plant there – the exact name is Vemork power-plant – was employed to produce heavy water through a dedicated electrolysis separation process, which requires huge amounts of energy. Heavy water is a key component for the production of Plutonium – in turn required for atomic weapons – in heavy-water reactors.
Also the Norwegians understood the value of the plant. As soon as the winds of war started blowing from Germany in early 1940, heavy water then in storage was taken away to France, and later to Britain following the invasion of France by the Third Reich.
After Norway had been occupied by the Reich, the plant was at the center of three sabotage operations. Extremely risky and partly ending in disaster, these operations were carried out both by Norwegian and British staff, parachuted from Britain.
It took until 1944 to mortally hit the plant, well protected by its own natural setting. Two dedicated bombing raids carried out by US bombers damaged the plant beyond repair – at least in the late war scenario, when the Third Reich reaction capacity was weakening every day. The final act in the Norwegian heavy water saga was the sinking of the small boat – named Hydro – loaded with the reserve of heavy water from Vemork, having just started its trip to Germany on Lake Tinn.
The plant was again in business in the years after the war, and remained operative until the early 1990s, involved in production of various chemicals.
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Today, it is a much visited museum. Actually, the most impressive part of the plant is that of the hydroelectric turbines. Aligned in a single immense hangar, these now silent giant machinery send glimpses of the original, fashionable early-1900 industrial style.
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Some of the turbines and generator assemblies – manufactured by AEG, as witnessed by the labels – are really huge.
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
A suspended platform allows to capture with a bird’s eye the entire hall. Here you can see also completely analog control panels, again in a very elegant style from the era.
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Vemork Power Plant Heavy Water Rjukan – WWII – Norway
Visiting
The museum in Vemork can be reached in less than 3 hours driving from central Oslo. The power-plant can be approached walking from the parking (here) over a suspended bridge crossing the deep valley. The area is very scenic. The highlight of the show is the hall with the power turbines. A visit may take from a few minutes to more than 1 hour for more interested subjects.
A website with full information can be found here.
After the end of WWII and the collapse of the Third Reich, the territory now belonging to the Czech Republic fell on the Soviet side of the Iron Curtain. Together with today’s Slovakia, it formed the now disappeared unitary state of Czechoslovakia. Despite laying right on the border with the West – including Bavaria, which was part of West Germany and NATO – communist Czechoslovakia enjoyed a relative autonomy from the USSR, until the announced liberally-oriented reforms of the local communist leader Dubcek in the spring of 1968 triggered a violent reaction by the Soviet leader of the time, Leonid Brezhnev (see here). About 250’000 troops from the Warsaw Pact, including the USSR, landed in the Country. As a result, the Soviets established a more hardcore and USSR-compliant local communist regime, and largely increased their military presence.
Similar to the German Democratic Republic (see here for instance), Hungary (see here) or Poland (see here), since then also in Czechoslovakia the local national Army was flanked by a significant contingent of Soviet troops, who left only after the entire Soviet-fueled communist empire started to crumble, at the beginning of the 1990s.
Consequently, for the last two decades of the Cold War, Czechoslovakia was a highly militarized country similar to other ones in the Warsaw Pact (see here). Its geographical position on the border with the West meant it received supply for a high-technology anti-aircraft barrier (see here). Two major airbases in Czechoslovakia were taken over for use by the Soviets and strongly potentiated (see here).
Soviet Nuclear Depots in Czechoslovakia
Beside conventional forces, also nuclear warheads were part of the arsenal deployed in this Country. Where in the late 1960s Soviet strategic nuclear forces were already mostly based on submarine-launched missiles and ICBMs ground-launched from within the USSR’s borders, tactical forces were forward-deployed to satellite countries, to be readily operative in case of war in Europe. Missile systems like the SCUD, Luna (NATO: Frog) and Tochka (NATO: Scarab) were deployed to the Warsaw Pact, supplying either the local Armies or the Soviet forces on site. Typically armed with conventional warheads, these systems were compatible with nuclear warheads too, making them more versatile, and of great use in case of a war against NATO forces in central and western Europe (see here).
Irrespective of their employment by a local national Army or a Soviet missile force, nuclear warheads were kept separated from the rest of the missile system for security, and invariably under strict and exclusive Soviet control. Bunker sites were purpose built in all components of the Warsaw Pact for storing nuclear warheads – see page 46 of this CIA document, showing with some accuracy the location of the corresponding bases.
Granit– and Basalt-type bunkers were typically prepared on airfields or artillery bases, for short-term storage of soon-to-be-launched nuclear weapons. Instead, top-security Monolith-type bunkers (the triangles on the map in the CIA document) were intended for long-term storage of nuclear ordnance.
Monolith-type bunkers were built by local companies on a standard design in the Soviet military inventory, and were implemented in satellite Countries in the late 1960s. Czechoslovakia received three such sites, which took the names Javor 50, by the town of Bílina, Javor 51, close to Míšov, and Javor 52, close to the town of Bělá pod Bezdězem. All three locations are in the north-western regions of today’s Czech Republic.
The Soviet military started withdrawing the nuclear warheads from satellite Countries in 1989, months before the collapse of the wall in Berlin. As for Czechoslovakia, by 1990 all nuclear forces had been moved back to the USSR. Following the end of the Cold War, Monolith-bunkers – similar to most of the colossal inventory of forward-deployed military installations formerly set up by the Soviet Union – were declared surplus by the Countries where they had been implemented.
These primary relics of the Cold War have known since then different destinies. Some of them have been hastily demolished, and together with their associated fragments of recent history, they have almost completely disappeared into oblivion. Luckily, a few are currently still in private hands, and still in existence (see here and here) – specimens of recent military technology, and a vivid memento from recent history, when the map of Europe looked very different from now. Two can be visited, of which one is Javor 51, in the Czech Republic, the main topic of this post. This has been turned into the ‘Atom Museum’, which has the distinction of being the only Monolith-type site in the world offering visits on a regular schedule (the other open site is Podborsko, in Poland, covered here, which is open by appointment).
Also displayed in the following are some pictures of the now inaccessible site Javor 52 in former Czechoslovakia. Photographs were taken in 2020 (Javor 52) and 2022 (Javor 51).
Sights
Javor 51 – The Atom Museum, Míšov
An exceptionally well preserved and high-profile witness of the Cold War, the nuclear depot Javor 51 is a good example of a Monolith-type installation. These bases were centered around two identical semi-interred bunkers for nuclear warheads.
When starting a visit, you will soon make your way to the unloading platform of bunker Nr.1. The shape of the metal canopy, and the small control booth with glass windows overlooking the platform are pretty unique to this site. The metal wall fencing the unloading area is still in its camo coat outside, and greenish paint inside. Caution writings in Russian are still clearly visible. Concrete slabs clearly bear the date of manufacture – 1968. This site was reportedly activated on the 26th of December, 1968.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Even the lamps look original. Some of the – likely – tons of material left by the Soviets on the premises of this site has been put on display ahead of the massive bunker door.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
The opening mechanism of the latter is a nice work of mechanics. Four plugs actually lock or unlock the door. They can be moved by means of a manual crank, or likely in the past via an electric mechanism (some wiring is still visible). The thickness of the doors is really impressive (look for the cap of my wide lens on the ground in a picture below for comparison!).
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Each bunker had two ground-level entrances to the opposite ends, each with two blast-proof doors in a sequence. Warheads were transported by truck, unloaded beside the entrance of one of the two bunkers, and carried inside through the two doors, which constituted an air-tight airlock.
Today, you can see the inside main hall of the bunkers from the outside during a visit. This was likely not the case in the days of operation. The opening procedure required a request signal to travel all the way to Moscow, and a trigger signal traveling in the opposite direction. Once past the first (external) door with the warhead trolley, that door was shut, and the procedure was repeated for the second door, giving access to the inside of the bunker.
A security trigger told Moscow when the door was open. It can still be seen hanging from top of the door frame.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Once inside, you find yourself on a suspended concrete platform. The warhead trolley had to be lowered via a crane – still in place – to the bottom of the cellar ahead, i.e. to the underground level. The stairs now greatly facilitating visitor’s motion around the bunker were not in place back then, and descending to the underground level for the technicians was via a hatch in the floor of the suspended platform, and a ladder close to the side wall.
On the platform, an original Soviet-made air conditioning system can be seen – with original labeling – and signs in Russian are on display on the walls.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
The platform is also a vantage point to see the extensive array of heat-exchangers put along a sidewall of the central hall – atmosphere control was of primary importance for the relatively delicate nuclear warheads. Each of them traveled and was kept in a pressurized canister. However, also the storage site was under careful atmospheric control.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
To the opposite end of the bunker, the inner tight door of the second entrance can be clearly seen, ahead of another suspended platform. The warheads left the bunker for maintenance (they might have left also for use, but this never happened, except possibly on drills) from that entrance, which had a loading platform outside for putting the warheads on trucks (this can be better seen in other Monolith sites, like Urkut in Hungary, or Stolzenhain in Germany).
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Down on the lower level, the main bunker hall gives access to one side to four big cellars, where the warheads spent their time in storage, and to the other sides to technical rooms. The pavement in the storage cellars features the original metal strongpoints, used to anchor the trolleys for the warheads to the ground. This was in case of a shockwave investing the site in an attack, to avoid the trolleys moving and crashing against one another. The original hooks with spherical joints to link the trolley to the strongpoints are also on display.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
The storage cellars today have been used to display informative panels, with many interesting pictures and schemes. These include some from major sites connected with the history of nuclear weaponry in the Soviet Union (like from the test site of Semipalatinsk) and the US (like the Titan Museum near Tucson, AZ, covered in this post).
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
A few former technical rooms are used to store much original technical gear. This ranges from spare parts, tools and personal gear like working suits left by the Soviets (most with signs in Russian), to items ‘Made in Czechoslovakia’ or even radiation detectors from Britain and the West, gathered here for display and comparison.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Some of these spare parts are wrapped and sealed in Russian, looking like they were cataloged back in the time of operations.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
In the main hall, many rare vintage pictures retrace the presence of Soviet military forces on this site as well as others in Czechoslovakia. Magnified copies of rare pictures portray the trucks, canisters and the very warheads likely involved in transport and storage in Javor 51. Actually, much mystery exists around the deployment of nuclear ordnance by the USSR outside its borders (not only to Czechoslovakia). Historical and technical information today made available, even to a dedicated public, is very limited, making this chapter of Cold War history even more intriguing.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Again in the central hall, cabinets for monitoring the nuclear warheads can be seen hanging from the walls, painted in blue. Each warhead used to be stored in a canister, which was periodically linked to these cabinets to check the inner atmosphere, temperature, etc., in order to monitor the health of its very sensitive content.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
A large part of the technical/living rooms has been preserved in its original appearance. You can see parts of an air conditioning system, a big water tank, a toilet, a now empty bedroom for the troops. The bunker was constantly manned inside by typically six people, who operated in shifts. They did not sleep there, nor used the toilet much due to poor drainage. However, these facilities were used in drills, and were intended for the case of real war operations, when the bunker might have been sealed from the outside.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
The electric cabinets take a dedicated room, like the huge air filters and pumps (Soviet made), installed to grant survival of the people inside the bunker in case of an attack with nuclear weapons or other special warfare. Clearly, the level of safety in the design of the bunker stemmed from the fact that it was considered by the Soviet as a a strategic target for NATO forces.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
The last technical rooms host a big Diesel generator, supplied with air from the outside, and a big fuel tank in an adjoining room. Many labels bear writings in Russian, but the generator appears to be made in Czechoslovakia. The bunker was linked to the usual electric power grid of the region, and the generator was intended for emergency operations, in case the grid was lost or the bunker was isolated.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
From the technical area, it was possible to access or exit the bunker, via a human-size airlock. The innermost tight door can be seen painted in yellow, with a locking mechanism resembling that of the major tight doors for the missile warheads. Outside the airlock, climbing three levels of ladders was required to get to the surface. This was the normal access to the bunker for the military technical staff, except when warheads arrived or left the storage (this was made via the major entrances, as explained).
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Back outside, the second bunker, Nr.2, can be found at a short distance from the former. Nr.2 is being prepared for an exhibition on technology. At the time of writing, it can be toured except for the technical/living rooms. It is in a very good condition, and allows to get similar details as the previous Nr.1 on the construction of this type of facility – including the heating/air conditioning system.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
The blue cabinets for plugging the canister for routine status checking and maintenance can be found also in Nr.2 in good shape.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Clearly visible here are the doors closing the technical areas and the warhead cellars. The latter were monitored for security just like the external airtight doors of the bunker, each with a sensor telling controllers whether the cellar was locked or not.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
The airlock is covered in soot, possibly the result of a fire. Ahead of the entrance, the unloading platform is very interesting, having a unique set of light doors which had to be opened to allow trucks to come in. The concrete part of the platform appears slightly off-standard, with a short lateral concrete ramp, giving access to the main platform from one side. Parts of missiles – original – are being gathered in this area for display.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Monolith sites include two bunkers, which are the core of a strongly defended fenced area. In Javor 51, fences except the external one have been removed for the safety of visitors (rusty barbed wire can be very dangerous). These can still be found in other similar installations (see here). Similarly, the troops and technicians working on site lived in purpose-built housing, segregated from local communities. In Javor 51, this housing still exists, but cannot be visited.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Leaving the place, you can visit the nice visitor/gathering center, and even find some interesting souvenirs!
Getting there and visiting
All in all, the Atom Museum prepared at Javor 51 is a top destination for everybody interested in the history of the Cold War, nuclear warfare, Soviet history, military history, etc.
Credit goes to the owner of the place, Dr. Vaclav Vitovec, who is leading this remarkable preservation effort, and is a very knowledgeable and enthusiastic guide to the site for those visiting. Dr. Vitovec is also the owner of the border museum in Rozvadov, covered in this post.
The Javor 51 site is actually fairly well known at least to a dedicated public, having been visited by historians, scientists and notable figures – including Francis Gary Powers, Jr., who is very active in preserving the history of the Cold War.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
The commitment of the museum’s managers is witnessed also by the nice website (also in English), where you can sign-up for a visit on pre-arranged days – as of 2022, all Saturdays in the warm season – or contact the staff for setting up a personalized visit. It is nice to see a good involvement by the local population (the great majority of visitors on regular visits are Czech), including many from younger generations. The exhibits tell much on the peaceful use of nuclear energy, and this is a major topic in the guided tour in Czech. Actually, the Czech Republic has a strong nuclear tradition, with many power plants in use, and a commitment for the development of nuclear energy in the future.
Soviet Nuclear Bunker Czech Republic – Javor 51 – Atom Museum
The location is around 25 miles southeast of Plzen, or 60 miles southwest of Prague. Easy to reach by car. The exact address is Míšov 51, 33563 Míšov, Czechia. Full info on their website. Visiting on a normal scheduled visit is on a partly-guided basis, meaning that you will get an intro (in Czech) of around 40 minutes, than you will be allowed to access the bunkers and visit on your own, for all the time you like. You might end up spending more than 2 hours checking out the site and everything is in it, if you have a special interest for the topic. Dr. Vitovec is fluent in English, and can provide much information upon request.
Javor 52 – Bělá pod Bezdězem
The Monolith-type site Javor 52 has been willingly demolished, likely by the Government of the Czech Republic, as it was the case for most other similar (or more in general, Soviet-related) sites in Poland and Germany.
However, it was hard to get completely rid of any trace of an installation so bulky and reinforced. Therefore, some remains can still be found and explored.
Some technical buildings still in use close to the bunkers may have been there from the days of operation.
Getting close to the bunker area, traces of the multiple fences originally around the site can be found, either in the trees or in the vicinity of unmaintained roads. Wooden or concrete posts with fragments of barbed wire are clearly visible. Also reinforced concrete shooting points can be spotted in the wild vegetation.
As typical, two bunkers were erected on site, and similarly to Javor 51 (see above), in Javor 52 they are aligned, with the entrances all along the same ideal orientation.
The bunkers in Javor 52 have been interred, so that they are now hardly noticeable from the outside, except to a careful eye. Looking inside the eastern one, it is possible to get a view of the open doors of the main airlock, providing a distant view of the inner main hall.
The western bunker is in a better general condition, and the main hall still retains a pretty unique writing in Russian. The ladder descending from the suspended platform has been substituted with a posthumous, regular ladder. Much metalwork has disappeared though, including the heat exchangers, the crane, and the tight doors.
Between the bunkers, a concrete pool can be found – still watertight! – with a function which is hard to guess. A pool for civil use was installed in Stolzenhain (and reportedly also in Javor 52, but I had not the time to watch out for it), but this was in the low-security of the site, far from the bunkers.
Access to this place is possible without violating any property sign, but is clearly not encouraged. Going unnoticed is made tricky by the presence of a public facility nearby – a shelter for foreigners and some education activity. Parking out of sight is possible along the road 27235, north of the complex and to the west of the road – trailheads and corresponding parking areas can be found there. Check out some satellite map to find a way to the exact location of the bunkers – their respective entrances are approximately here (eastern bunker) and here (western bunker).
I visited the site in 2020, and the entrances appeared very dangerous and easy to seal in a permanent way. I do not have any further update, but would suggest to go prepared to find definitively interred and totally inaccessible bunkers.
Javor 50 – Bílina – Quick note
As of 2020, the site of Javor 50 is in a peculiar state of ‘conservation’. The place is closed to the public, but entering would be basically unimpeded, since the external fence to the former military base is mostly collapsed and interrupted. The Soviet quarters insider still have much to offer – including writing in Russian, a scheme of the base, and much more. Likely, the bunkers are also still in a relatively good shape.
Much surprisingly though, somebody is living there with watchdogs, in miserable conditions, keeping visitors out. It is likely that an official visit may be booked by getting in touch with the municipality, since it appears that the site is not used for anything. However I was not successful in connecting with anybody there, therefore I have no suggestion on this point. The of the main entrance is here.
Romania has been ruled by a communist dictatorship since the early Cold War period until the fall of Ceausescu in December 1989. The monarchy had been basically put aside by a military authoritarian government in the 1930s. The latter took the side of Hitler’s Third Reich during WWII. Eventually, towards the closing of the war, Stalin’s Red Army irresistibly wiped out all opponents in Eastern Europe, including Romania. A Stalinist regime, characterized by forced collectivization, mass arrest and persecution of many social categories, as well as political opponents, was put in place soon after the end of WWII, with the backing of the invading Soviet forces. A similar scenario was encountered in almost every Nation captured by the Soviet Union after WWII.
Following a struggle between rival exponents of the Communist Party of Romania, Gheorghe Gheorghiu-Dej emerged as a dictator in those early years, and managed to stay in the pilot’s seat until his death in 1965, thus surviving the confusion in the USSR following the death of Stalin in 1953, and for the full length of weather-cocking Khrushchev’s tenancy of power. Among the most infamous creations of this period was the Securitate, the equivalent of USSR KGB, or the East-German Stasi (or the Third Reich’s Gestapo…). Actually, publications by the former Romanian Securitate official Ion Pacepa, who defected to the US in the late 1970s, have documented the intimate relationship of the Securitate with KGB, in some of the most delicate and long-reaching disinformation operations carried out in the West.
Besides that, in order to preserve the statu quo, political opponents, non-communist scientists, artists, exponents of the Romanian Christian churches, and many other target categories and individuals were subject to attentive and constant controls within Romanian borders. These controls were often followed by arrest, long detention in labor camps and prisons, and in several instances by execution, or mysterious ‘deaths in prison’, cowardly attributed to fancy causes.
A surviving tangible symbol of what is possibly the darkest chapter of the monstrous communist dictatorship in Romania is represented by the Sighet Prison, in the northern region of Targu Mures, on todays border with the Ukraine. Turned into a memorial, this is much visited by Romanians and foreign visitors as well. This is described in this chapter.
A big country with vast natural resources and access to the Black Sea, Romania had the potential of a big economy. But as Sir Winston Churchill once said, communists would run quickly out of sand in the Sahara. Industrialization and mass production was carried out at the price of an increasing international debt. The state was everywhere, it employed every worker, but the state had debts. As a result, wages, services and living conditions started to decline significantly with respect to free economies over the years.
Following the death of Gheorghiu-Dej, the relatively young and energetic Nicolae Ceausescu conquered power. He would reign over Romania together with his wife Elena, until the demise of communism in Romania and in Europe. For Romania, the Ceausescu era differed to some extent from the previous chapter of the Cold War. Profiting from the struggle for supremacy in the communist universe between China and the USSR, Romania escaped the orbit of any major communist state, and tried a new way on his own, establishing tight economic and political links with the West. This was somewhat similar to what Tito had tried in Yugoslavia.
Sealing the renovated international image of the Romanian ‘People’s Republic’, president Nixon and Ford payed a visit to Ceausescu in the 1970s, the first and last US presidents to do so, and Ceausescu’s ride on Queen Elizabeth II’s golden coach in London is a popular image even today. The Romanian dictator visited the White House. However, in a move to balance international debt, a growing share of the Romanian rich domestic production was sold to foreign countries. Correspondingly, life conditions in Romania went lower and lower.
Two interesting collections exist in Romania offering a glimpse on the everyday life of the Romanian people, the ‘Museum of the Communist Consumer’ in Timisoara, and the ‘Museum of Communism’ in Hunedoara. Both are covered in this post.
The situation spiraled at the beginning of the 1980s, when the Ceausescus started to behave more like Olympic gods than ‘usual’ communist dictators. The growing cult of personality of Nicolae and Elena as geniuses in economics, politics, science, art, … is witnessed by statues, emblems with the faces of the ‘royal couple’, kitschy communist paraphernalia which were more typical to Stalin’s last years, and not to other countries in the Eastern Bloc – there were no statues of Honecker in the DDR, nor of Kadar in Hungary, despite the hardcore communist regime affecting both countries. Meanwhile, the living conditions in the country hit an all-time low, with a real famine hitting large shares of the population. The sharp contrast with the Hollywood living style exhibited by the Ceausescus widened the distance between the autocratic government and the Romanian people. Strict control and intrusion in private life by the state, increased all along Ceausescu’s era, became even more paranoid, to try preventing any subversive action by the population.
Triggered by the surprise fall of the wall in Berlin, an inevitable eruption started with riots in Timisoara, and quickly spread in other large towns of the Country, in the fall of 1989. This culminated in the first and last public mass opposition to Ceausescu in Bucharest, just days before Christmas 1989. A full-scale revolution was started, with people shooting in the streets, casualties and deaths. The Ceausescus fled the palace of the government in Bucharest by helicopter. They landed in Targoviste, some tens of miles north, only to be captured by the local military. They were summarily trialed an executed shortly after, on Christmas day 1989, putting and end to the communist rule in Romania.
The trial and death of the Ceausescus have been captured on a video, broadcast worldwide in many occasions as a historical document since then. Possibly less known is the fact that the location where the Ceausescus were shortly detained, trialed and executed is today a monument, which has been preserved since those days with its original 1989 appearance, and can be easily visited. A report is displayed in this post.
Photographs were taken during a visit in the summer of 2021.
The Sighet Prison is located in the town of Sighetu Marmatiei, in the hilly region of Targu Mures, northern Romania, on the border with Ukraine (i.e. the USSR). The prison was built in the 19th century when this territory was part of the Austrian Empire.
Following the end of WWII, the Soviet-controlled territory of defeated Romania, just like any other future Soviet satellite country, was object of roundups against some groups, like former men from the military, religious ministers, politicians,… who amidst the lack of an established law system were arbitrarily deported to the Soviet Union. At this time, Sighet was used as a kind of transit camp for people on their way to deportation. This was mostly similar to what happened in Hohenschönhausen in Berlin (see here).
The prison then took over the primary role of a detention center for people opposing the new communist regime, and it was used as such at least until the death of Stalin in 1953. In 1955 it was converted into a standard prison for common criminals, despite only a general amnesty in the mid 1960s meant the liberation of the last political prisoners – quite similarly, the Gulag prison camp system in the USSR was dismantled by around the end of the 1950s.
In the years of Stalin, who backed a hardcore communist government in Romania, the Sighet Prison was therefore an instrument of repression, arbitrarily used against very high-profile people opposing communism, like former top members of the pre-WWII government, non-communist party leaders, professors and scientists, bishops and ministers of various Christian faiths. But also anti-communist students and less prominent figures went through this deadly installation.
The inmates in Sighet were mistreated to the point that many died there, including some prominent figures in the history of Romania.
The prison was closed in the late 1970s, to be duly re-opened as a memorial the early 1990s. The former prison building – not very big, similar to an average high-school building – has been almost totally taken over by a very rich and interesting exhibition. Today, this is a major destination for both Romanian and international visitors.
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Starting from the entrance hall, you are provided with information on the detention system put in place by the communists in Romania. This was pretty extensive, with labor camps (to be found also elsewhere in central Europe, from the same Stalinist era, see here), prisons with various ‘targets’ – including the in-famous Pitesti prison, made specifically for religious people, and remarkably demolished still in the communist era, soon after the conclusion of the homonym ‘experiment’ – psychiatric hospitals used for confinement of mentally healthy people, etc.
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
The original gates, grates and fences, dividing the halls of the prison, are still there. The main row is on two floors, with cells aligned along both sides. Most of the cells now host informative displays, covering several specific themes.
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
The exhibits range from copies of documents witnessing the arbitrary arrest of many people, fake death reports with fancy causes, to collection of articles showing the careful use of the press to build up a ‘parallel reality’, in support of the moves of the government. Lists of inmates by category are also presented.
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Extorted confessions of absurd crimes were among the goals of the detention of political inmates. These were obtained with torture and violence (typical to the every communist dictatorship, as accurately shown in Budapest, see here).
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Some of the cells, including those where some particularly famous people died, have been preserved with their original appearance.
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
A rigor cell, with shackles anchored to the floor and no windows, has been left as it was. Artifacts made by the inmates are also on display.
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Several cells on the top floor cover the history of communism in Europe and in Romania, with some artifacts, copies of pictures and documents.
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
The prison features a double courtyard, where memorial installations have been placed – a sculpture, a memorial wall, and a nice modern chapel.
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
Sighet Prison Memorial Museum – Communist Dictatorship Political Prisoners – Sighetu Marmatiei – Maramures – Romania
All in all, a sober place, which preserves and relives sad memories, quintessential to the communist experience of this fierce country.
Visiting
The town of Sighetu Marmatiei is a major center in Targu Mures, but is nothing special in itself. However, due to its strategic position, it is likely you will have chance to pass by. Access to the memorial is from a walking area in the town center. A signaled parking can be found immediately nearby, providing easy access to the site. Entrance is at a small fee. The exhibition is modern, detailed and catchy. Most explanations are in Romanian only, but free detailed booklets in several languages are included in the entrance fee. Therefore, even for non-Romanian speakers, visiting may be rewarding, and a visit may easily take 1-2 hours.
Museum of the Communist Consumer, Timisoara
This collection is really unusual, in both its setting and arrangement. It is located in the basement and ground floor of a pub, in what appears to be a former apartment. Especially the basement – which however gets some sunlight – features some rooms like a kitchenette, a living room, a corridor, a small studio.
The content is partly the result of – possibly – the original furniture of this apartment, or a similar one, as well as – literally – thousands of everyday items, everything from the communist age.
Furthermore, the museum is ‘interactive’, meaning that you can touch everything, take items in your hands, move around everywhere, as if you were at home!
Licenses and personal documents from Romanian authorities, product labels, books, LPs, … you might spend hours digging in this incredible mass of original material.
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Postcards from the communist age are especially interesting, showing popular locations in Romania, portrayed sometimes from… a different perspective. Differently from today, the subject of postcards was typically a monster apartment block in pure socialist brutalism style, newly built in the peripheral surroundings, rather than some castle or graceful Orthodox monastery in the historical district! But these were the triumphs of communism to show off…
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Some souvenirs from the USSR are also on display, similar to many ‘Made in CCCP’ technology items – from a vacuum cleaner loosely resembling a rocket, to LP record players.
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
There are gas masks, maps of Romania – possibly from a school or public office? – and a few remarkable official emblems of the Communist Party of Romania, including an embroidered red banner, and a few big portraits of Nicolae and Elena Ceausescu. These also might result from the dismantlement of a public office, school, communist workers group, or similar.
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
The upper floor is partly a collection, partly a pub, with a nice ‘exotic’ atmosphere.
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Museum of Communist Consumers – Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist – Timisoara – Romania
Definitely a pick for a full immersion in the everyday life in the communist age of Romania.
Visiting
The location of the museum (‘Muzeul Consumatorului Comunist’ in Romanian) is slightly peripheral with respect to the large historical district of Timisoara. The location is in Strada Arhitect Laszlo Szekely 1, Timișoara. It is convenient to reach with a car, parking is possible almost everywhere around, as usual in Romania. Entrance is free. They have a Facebook page with some information here. Do not be discouraged by the front appearance, which may look sealed. Entrance is possible from the little pergola to the back of the building. Visiting may take from 30 minutes to much more, in case you decide to dig into this impressive collection.
Museum of Communism, Hunedoara
This remarkable collection has been put in place privately by a Romanian now living mostly in Germany. The exhibition is articulated in four halls.
A first one showcases original reviews and newspapers from the communist era. Official portraits of Gheorghiu-Dej and Ceausescu can be seen hanging on the walls, similar to official material from the Romanian communist party (the acronym ‘PCR’).
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
The main hall has on display reconstructions of two rooms, one from a railway workers building, and another from a general grocery store. Both have been created based on original emblems, instructional posters, propaganda posters, and various celebration items.
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
A third hall hosts the reconstruction of an elementary classroom. Everything original also here, and the atmosphere which has been recreated is particularly exotic and authentic – see for instance the similarity of the items on display with respect to an original Soviet school ‘preserved’ in the Chernobyl exclusion zone, here and here.
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Further display cases are stuffed with original items, from medals and decorations to propaganda material.
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
The last room in this museum hosts a collection of uniforms, from the communist age down to the post-communist years. The change is reflected mainly in a different emblem on the official’s hats.
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
Museum of Communism – Permanent Exhibition of the Steps of Romania from Socialism to Democracy -Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație – Hunedoara – Romania
This collection is very well preserved, and makes for an interesting complement to a visit to Hunedoara, a popular destination thanks to the Corvins’ Castle.
Visiting
The museum is located in central Hunedoara, Strada Cloșca Nr 2. A small parking can be found ahead, plenty of parking opportunities around. The rather articulated full name in Romanian is ‘Muzeul Comunismului – Expoziție Permanentă Pașii României prin Socialism și Democrație’, but the first part is basically ‘Museum of Communism’. There is a Facebook page with some information here. The owner is very friendly, and the place is well maintained and presented. Please note that only cash is accepted. The exhibition is rather compact, and visiting may take about 30 minutes.
Ceausescu Trial and Shooting Place, Targoviste
In December 1989 things degenerated rapidly for the Romanian dictator Nicolae Ceausescu. Starting from Timisoara, riots became more violent and focused, asking for the deposition of Ceausescu from power. In a desperate move to induce the general public and the international press to believe he still retained control, a mass demonstration was set up in Bucharest on December 21st by the communist leader. Despite a huge crowd – mass-infiltrated by the Securitate – was ahead of the palace of the government to listen to the Ceausescus (see this post), a genuine counter-demonstration fueled by the population of Bucharest soon took control of the show. The incredible scene which resulted, with Ceausescu trying to silence the protesters and visibly loosing credit and power second after second at an impressive rate, has become a historical document and a symbol of the demise of communism dictatorship in Europe.
The following day (22nd), the Ceausescus, trapped in the Palace of the Government now besieged, escaped from the roof with a helicopter in the early afternoon. In the meanwhile, revolutionaries faced the governmental militia, and shots were fired in the streets, with many victims and wounded. But the revolutionary wave continued to grow and spread very rapidly all over the country, with branches of the public administration and military abandoning the ‘sinking ship’ of Ceausescu, and openly taking the side of the protesters in several districts of the Country.
The helicopter with the Ceausescus landed in Targoviste, and by the evening they were under arrest there, in the Army Barrack 01417. There they were confined and kept under strict armed surveillance, in a decent, albeit essential room, together. Finally, on December 25th, they were summoned in an adjoining room, where they were trialed by an improvised court, mainly composed of military staff. The couple was charged with very general imputations, including genocide of some tens of thousands people, as well as destroying the economy of the state. They were found guilty, sentenced to death and executed soon after in the courtyard of the barrack.
Both the trial and (the last part of) the execution by firing squad were filmed and broadcast, and this too is a well-known historical document.
Maybe the fact that you have seen this on TV makes a visit to Barrack 01417 particularly impressive. The former barrack, now a rather understated memorial, can be approached through the small front courtyard, where you can read a detailed description in multiple languages (including English) of the facts briefly outlined above.
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
The entry hall of the barrack is painted in an unusual vivid blue, and clearly dates from before the communist age – maybe from the early 20th century. Three rooms are accessible from the hall. One is the ticket office. A second one is a preserved office of an officer of the barrack. Telephone connections, maps and a cabinet with original communist propaganda material are on display.
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
The last room accessible from the hall is the one where the trial took place. This has been preserved exactly as it looked like in the video, with the same arrangement of the tables and chairs. A massive stove is still there. The positions of the defendants is marked with labels. Everything is very shabby here. An adjoining room was used by the court for the quick discussion and decision on the fate of the Ceausescus.
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
The aura of this semi-dark room is still today rather gloomy, and somewhat disturbing.
From the main hall, you can access a corridor. A door on the side is the entrance to the room where the Ceausescus were kept in custody from the 22nd until their death on the 25th of December. Three berths can be seen – one possibly for a guard – a front desk facing the door, and in a corner a small table with two chairs for meals, once protected by a curtain.
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
The toilet to the dead end of the corridor is possibly also original from the time.
Finally, you may step outside in the backyard, to the place were the two were actually shot. The door giving access to the courtyard is close to the trial room, and cannot be opened.
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
The wall behind the Ceausescus where they were shot is still marked by bullet pierces. Based on the video, automatic rifles were used, therefore really many bullets were shot at the two targets.
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
The places of the dead corpses of Elena (to the left) and Nicolae are marked on the ground.
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
A plaque on the wall remembers the shooting. With respect to the video, the area immediately ahead of the shooting place, i.e. where the firing squad should have been standing, is now covered by some bushes. However, apart from that, the setting looks mostly like what you see in the historical records from that moment.
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Ceausescu’s Detention and Execution Place – Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu – Targoviste – Romania
Clearly connected with a rapid sequence of undoubtedly tragic moments, the Targoviste memorial stands out as a symbol of the – this time, violent – end of communism in Europe, like the memorials of the wall in Berlin, and a few more locations in former communist countries in the Old Continent.
Visiting
The memorial is not much visited nor crowded these days – more than 30 years have elapsed since that fateful day in 1989. However, the place is indeed a museum open to the general public for visits. The name of the place in Romanian is ‘Locul executiei cuplului Ceausescu’. The exact location is Bulevardul Carol I 68, Târgoviște. You may find a public parking on the street in the immediate vicinity of the boulevard where the barrack is. Unfortunately, opening times are not officially published (even on site, they were not clear), but those you can find on Google Maps were correct in the summer high season. Visiting is on a self-guided basis, and may take from 10 to 45 minutes, for a quick visit or in case you want to take pictures.
The western part of Poland, today on the border with Germany, used to be largely part of the German Reich before WWI. Following the defeat of the central empires in 1918, the borders of Poland were partly redrawn, but with respect to today’s political map of Europe a large territory of what is today western Poland was still German. Most notably, the Baltic town of Gdansk (or Danzig, in German) was the port town of Poland in the interwar period, linked through a narrow corridor to the main inland region of that country. The severing of this link and the attack on Gdansk by Hitler’s forces in late summer 1939 was the first act of WWII.
With this map in mind, it is no surprise that most towns in the Polish region on the Baltic shoreline, and south to the border with today’s Czechia, are pointed with former Luftwaffe airbases, German made concrete bunkers and coastal guns similar to the Atlantic Wall (see this post for an idea). As a matter of fact, also the remarkable border forts of Czechia were put in place in the 1930s to counter warlike Hitler’s Third Reich on the other side of the border, not Poland, today bordering Czechia to the north (see this post).
Western Poland was swept by Stalin’s Red Army in the closing season of WWII in winter and spring of 1945. Soon after WWII, Poland had its borders this time totally redrawn. A new big communist state was created in central Europe, which to the uttermost delusion of the fierce local population, was basically a feud of the USSR – actually, the largest and most populated of the countries in the Eastern Bloc.
Just like any other country in Moscow’s suffocating embrace, Poland was strongly militarized. The armed forces of Poland were among the most developed branches of the Polish state, but this was just a part of the overall picture. As soon as the former Allied forces of WWII split, and the USSR became an undeclared enemy of Western democracies in the late 1940s, a strategic Soviet force was installed in Poland, taking over many formerly German military assets in the western region. The Northern Group of Forces was the name of the branch of Soviet military deployed to Poland.
As the strategy for a war in Europe envisaged by the Soviets was based on a kind of nuclear-assisted blitzkrieg-style westward push from the border between the Eastern and Western Blocs, the westernmost regions of the Soviet satellite countries on the border with the west were the most heavily reinforced. These included all the territory of the strongly Soviet-presided German Democratic Republic (see for instance this and this post, but there are really many on this topic on this website, and a dedicated book as well!), western Poland, western Czechoslovakia (i.e. Czechia), and to a lesser extent also Hungary (see for instance here) and Bulgaria.
Traces of the Cold War are very abundant in Poland, where they have received a generally greater attention in later times than in other former communist dictatorships, with some good examples of preservation, besides an array of inevitably abandoned and rotting facilities. These traces include both Polish and Soviet relics.
Some conspicuous Cold War leftovers in Poland have been described in this post, a brilliant example of preservation of a nuclear bunker, and also here. In this one, some more are shown, either preserved or abandoned, Soviet or Polish. They include the abandoned Soviet command bunker in Legnica, the partly abandoned Soviet airbases of Chojna and Kolbrzeg, the Museum of the Polish Artillery in Torun, the Polish command bunker on the island of Wolin (‘Vineta Battery’) and the one-of-a-kind nuclear fallout control bunker in Kalisz. The war cemetery in the fortress of Poznan is also portrayed as a special feature – a unique testimony of the dramatic history of Poland in the 20th century.
Soviet Northern Group of Forces Command Bunker, Legnica
The role of the town of Legnica in Poland during the years of Soviet occupation was comparable to that of Wünsdorf in the German Democratic Republic (see this post). It was here that the Northern Group of Forces, i.e. the branch of the Red Army stationed in Poland, had its headquarters. Just like Wünsdorf, operations in Legnica could count on dedicated high-security facilities.
A complex of underground halls, connected by a network of tunnels, formed a nuclear-proof command and control center, capable of fully operating for more than a week without resupply from the outside world. Different from Wünsdorf, this extended network was prepared in the trees at a certain distance from the stately ‘official’ buildings of downtown Legnica, precisely west of the small village of Wilkocin.
The secret bunker in Wilkocin is actually formed by two separate items, once in the middle of an extensive fenced and strongly defended area, totally impenetrable and guarded by watchmen and watchdogs.
The western item, isolated in the sand dunes typical of this area, yet actually not far from the village of Wilkocin, was partly visible from the surface. The codename of this installation was ‘Syrius’, and it was a reserve command post for the western war theater, i.e. the war in central Europe, to be fought along the border with NATO forces, in case the Cold War should have turned ‘hot’.
A group of apparently normal buildings form the visible part of this complex. The latter might have been more numerous, and perhaps demolition works have stricken in the recent past – the site is basically abandoned since the early 1990s when the Soviets quit. Traces of colored floor tiles, electric wires with voltage indications in Russian – many items recall more or less explicitly the Soviet tenancy of this place.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
A small water tank/pool and some service buildings can be found in the area at the base of the low-rise mound where the biggest building of the complex is.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Traces of the original camouflage can be seen still today on the walls. Also the building date – 1983, a relatively recent date – is clearly reported on a sidewall.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
The invisible, underground part of this complex can be accessed from small hatches, surfacing all around the main building, and even inside it – albeit the latter have been obstructed for safety, since the building is really rotting.
The underground part of the complex is basically made of a long straight corridor, giving access to an array of halls placed at a 90 degrees angle with respect to it. These halls vary in size. Some of them are really small, and were possibly intended for storing supplies, for sleeping stationing troops, or as technical rooms.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Traces of direction signs in Russian can be seen on the walls.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Some of these smaller halls are also interconnected, creating a kind of labyrinth. Tight doors were likely installed between adjoining rooms. They are gone now, but the passages between the rooms in the bunker are very small and make moving around difficult.
Not all of the halls were on the same level, so stairs can be found here and there.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
To the far end of the main corridor, a much larger hall greatly resembles the military air control center in Wünsdorf, perhaps its intended purpose in the days of operations.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Behind this larger hall, technical rooms might have been designed for gear to support control and monitoring operations – computers, projectors, etc. A long tunnel takes you outside directly from this area.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Back inside, the main corridor ends in a descending flight of stairs, giving access to another roomy hall. There used to be (likely) a massive tight door here, as suggested by traces in the walls.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
This final hall is rather peculiar, having a kind of smaller control cabin in it.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
From the outside, the cusp profile of the latter hall surfaces from the side of a hill, taking the shape of a hangar with two entrances – possibly a garage for radars or antennas, linked and providing data to the adjoining hall, likely a control room.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
A walk of about 1 mile to the southeast of the first item takes you to the second bunker in the secluded area of Wilkocin. Codenamed ‘Tuman’ (meaning ‘fog’ in Russian) in Soviet times, this was the central communication node of the Northern Group of Forces. Differently to the ‘Syrius’ item, this second facility was built totally underground.
The only surfacing components are an array of bulky but relatively small concrete constructions, possibly the base for electric/electronic gear like aerials, capacitors, or something alike.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Concrete hatches give access to very steep, narrow and long staircases, taking you down into the core of the hill.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
The ‘Tuman’ item is basically articulated along two long parallel corridors, with halls between them.
The function of the halls is today hard to guess. Some unusual features, maybe associated to the original role of the corresponding rooms, are the different, often bright colors of the walls and ceiling, ranging from orange, to lurid green, to sooth black.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
In some spots, the pavement is covered with ‘elaborated’ tiles, unexpected in an underground military facility.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Traces of hardware are relatively few, and include a few lamps, metal pipes emerging from the walls, and some cabinets with writing in Russian.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
The numerous interconnections between the halls, tunnels and passages in this bunker result in a very complicated labyrinth!
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
The majority of the halls are similar in structure. A couple are roomier and feature a significantly taller ceiling.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
The sand of the dunes outside has somehow managed to come in one of the halls!
The secluded location of these mysterious and silent bunkers, isolated deep in the trees and far from any populated settlement, makes for a very thought-provoking walk.
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Legnica Poland Soviet Command Post Underground Bunker North Group of Forces
Getting there and moving around
This site is an interesting example of ‘semi-wild’ conservation. It is advertised by means of dedicated explanatory panels in the village of Wilkocin, and can be reached leaving your car there and taking well-maintained trails to the two items. Actually, both bunkers are also sanctuaries for bats. Once there, you can explore the underground networks without restrictions, and modern emergency exit routes are also visible on the walls. However, the tunnels and halls are completely dark, and there is no map. Visiting is at your own risk. So a torchlight and a good sense of direction are required if you are visiting alone. Yet given the limited size of these bunkers and the many exits, you are not likely to run into any trouble. In my view, this is a good compromise for interested people to visit these historically relevant installations, which are not being demolished, but left to interested people without spending a cent of public money to preserve them.
Due to the size of the area and the walk required to reach the points of interest from the parking in Wilkocin, you might easily spend 4 hours exploring this site thoroughly. Due to the location, pretty far from everything, it is likely you will not meet a single person for the whole duration of your stay – this may add much to the ghost aura of the place. Cell phone coverage is so-so, and obviously null inside the bunkers. You might better go with some offline maps (Google maps of the area are fine, as you are not required to move out of technical roads, clearly visible from satellite pictures).
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Airbase
The western districts of Poland hosted basically all Soviet airbases to be found on the territory of this country. This was clearly connected with the strategy of the USSR in case of a war in Europe. Having most offensive forces ready for action along the border with the West meant a significant time advantage in the quick invasion of core Europe and the rush to the North sea, which were in the plans of the top-ranking military in Moscow in case of an outbreak of hostilities.
Actually, the Soviets did not have trouble in finding suitable locations for growing modern airbases in this area – the Luftwaffe had in this district an outstanding number of airfields. Chojna, known as Königsberg before 1945, was one of them.
The Soviets took control of this airport in February 1945, and since them it became one of the most developed in Poland. Today, the airport is basically closed except for minor ultralight operations. However, its original size and prominence can be appreciated moving around its premises – today possible, as the former taxiways and service roads have been turned into car traffic roads, albeit not much used except by the local companies who have taken over some of the original hangars.
Among the many interesting sights of this former airbase, the runway is – as of 2020 – basically intact! This makes for a very unusual and impressive sight – the length of the runway is remarkable, since the airbase was potentiated over the years, and in the closing stage of the Cold War, the Soviets operated from here with massive Sukhoi Su-27 fighters (late 1980s).
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Differently from western standards, the Soviets always preferred runway surfaces made of relatively small adjoining concrete slabs.
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
In connection with the operation of larger fighters, in the form of Su-27, Chojna was one of a handful airbases in the Soviet empire to receive the AU-19 type shelter, the biggest in the inventory of the Soviet air forces.
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Only a few of these hangars were built, and today some of them in Chojna have been sadly demolished.
Along the main taxiway running parallel to the runway, smaller AU-11 shelters can be found – their size being compatible with MiG-15 or MiG-21, both types operating from Chojna over the years – converted for storage by local companies or private owners.
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
A larger maintenance hangar has been taken over by a major engineering company.
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Another remarkable feature of Chojna is a well preserved ‘Granit’-type bunker. This type of bunker was the lightest and cheapest in the Soviet inventory. It could serve different functions, from theater missile storage, tactical nuclear ordnance storage, reinforced command bunker, etc.
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
The actual function of the bunker in Chojna is shrouded into mystery, but similar bunkers can be found in association with tactical nuclear deterrent in Poland (see this post). This might suggest the presence of air-dropped nuclear weapons in this airbase, at some point in history.
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Chojna Abandoned Soviet Air Base Poland
Despite too populated and lively to evoke a thick Soviet ghost aura (unlike several bases in the GDR, see for instance this post), Chojna is definitely worth a quick visit for the many unique spots it still offers, as well as for the ease of touring it moving around by car.
Getting there and moving around
Chojna is pretty close to the German border, some 30 miles south of Szczecin. The airbase is located south of the town, with now public roads providing access from the former Soviet village originally for the troops, today normally inhabited by the local population. A visit of less than one hour may cover most of the spots. The ‘Granit’-type bunker can be found in the south-western corner area of the base, with access just south of the western extremity of the runway.
Kolobrzeg Abandoned Soviet Airbase
The airport of Kolbrzeg is actually not really abandoned. Originally a Third Reich’s Luftwaffe installation, the Soviets took over this airfield, located right on the Baltic shoreline, potentiating it through a much longer runway, and turning the original German one into a taxiway and apron.
Today, the long Soviet runway is still used for general aviation operations, with private Cessna and Cirrus aircraft flying to this touristic location.
Kolobrzeg Soviet Airbase Poland
Kolobrzeg Soviet Airbase Poland
However, the airport was too big for the traffic it needs to support today. Hence large parts of the former area have been opened to public car traffic, and abandoned shelters from Soviet tenancy can be found scattered around.
The area of the apron, with large concrete slabs making the pavement, can be freely walked and allows to appreciate the big size of this air base.
Kolobrzeg Soviet Airbase Poland
Kolobrzeg Soviet Airbase Poland
Kolobrzeg Soviet Airbase Poland
Kolobrzeg Soviet Airbase Poland
Kolobrzeg Soviet Airbase Poland
Part of the original technical hangars, likely dating back to Hitler’s era, have been re-used by local companies.
Kolobrzeg Soviet Airbase Poland
Similar to Chojna (see above), Kolobrzeg once had a ‘Granit’-type bunker built on its premises. Unfortunately, this was selected for demolition, and nothing remains of it today.
Kolobrzeg Soviet Airbase Poland
Getting there and moving around
The airport of Kolobrzeg can be found about 3 miles east of the village, along the Baltic shoreline. The former German-then-Soviet village is today a tourist destination (name Podczele), thanks to the proximity with the beach. You may have a quick visit by car to the airport area, moving along the old Soviet taxiways, before parking on the former apron and going to the beach.
Museum of Artillery, Torun
Just east of remarkable UNESCO-town Torun, the small collection of the Museum of Artillery makes for an interesting detour from the touristic path. This museums occupies the westernmost building of the School of Artillery of the Polish Army, still active today.
The collection is clearly centered mainly on artillery, documenting the history and potential of this branch of the military with an interesting collection of shells, fuzes, warheads, cannons, howitzers and firearms mostly from the 20th century and up to our days.
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Being a Soviet satellite for the whole duration of the Cold War, Poland received war material made in the USSR in large lots. Among the artifacts on display, didactic cutouts of Soviet warheads from theater missiles are extremely interesting.
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Computational range-finding gear of Soviet make is also on display.
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
The diversity of shells and fuzes is always striking – some of the fuzes look like high-precision clock mechanisms.
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
To the outside, you are allowed a view of the courtyard of the school of artillery (inaccessible at the time of my visit), with a collection of heavier weapons. It appears however that the collection is loosing some of the items on display in the Cold War years, maybe for restoration, or for displaying them in other collections.
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
In a small depot on the side of the museum building it is possible to find a restoration shop, where they are actively working on the refurbishment of some heavier pieces of artillery.
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Museum of Artillery Torun Poland
Getting there and moving around
The museum can be accessed at this coordinates: 53.019260130760934, 18.623310804318898. It is a about .5 miles northeast of the central touristic district of Torun. You will find a rather unapparent pedestrian gate with a doorbell. You will be immediately admitted upon ringing the doorbell. Parking is not easy in the area. Visiting may take about 30-40 minutes for an interested subject. Unfortunately, explanations are in Polish only, but the museum staff is welcoming and they will try their best to let you get the most out of your visit. Website here.
Nuclear Fallout Control Bunker, Kalisz
Really a one-of-a-kind witness of the Cold War on the eastern side of the Iron Curtain, the perfectly restored and preserved bunker in Kalisz can be found in the basement of a standard residential home.
The secret bunker unveils today a complex and careful administration of the Polish territory, in view of a possible nuclear war to be fought in this country. This installation, run by the Polish government since the 1960s, besides serving as a crisis reporting point, was a central node for the administrative district having its capital city in Kalisz. The main standard function of the bunker was that of collecting and elaborating meteorological information from several sub-nodes of the reporting network, thus elaborating a map of the winds which was regularly updated.
The scope of this very precise meteorological forecast was that of estimating the likely evolution of a potential nuclear fallout, in case of a nuclear attack. Based on this information, the national Army could be sent in a direction or another, avoiding contaminated hot spots, evacuation operations of the local population could be carried out with a good knowledge of the actual risk, and so on.
The bunker could also trigger a nuclear attack alarm for the population of Kalisz, and it could host the local government representatives to ensure the survival of the chain of command.
The bunker is about 5.000 square feet, on a single underground level. It is articulated along a single corridor, with several rooms accessible on the sides. A unique feature – most of the original hardware is still there!
Designed to be autonomous in a nuclear fallout scenario, the bunker could be accessed via an airlock closed by tight doors, and had its own power generator.
The bunker was constantly guarded, and linked with the communication network of the Polish government. A communication room, today still featuring its original telephone console, served this scope. The shift spending the night there could make use of a basic bedroom.
The core of the bunker can be found to the end of the corridor.
Here a set of telephone booths were used by the personnel of the bunker to collect information from peripheral reporting points, dislocated on the territory controlled by the Kalisz bunker.
The information were gathered and reported on a paper map on a pivoting table on the wall. This table was then turned by 180 degrees, the info was received by the commanding staff in an adjoining room – so that decisions were not heard by the low-level operators of the telephone booths.
A highlight of this already impressive show is the still powered reporting & control console, which allowed to issue orders to other nodes of the network. A custom-built map of the district controlled by the central bunker in Kalisz, with multicolored lamps indicating the status of each peripheral node, can be still operated (even though the outgoing links are now severed), providing a very lively evocation of how the bunker control room looked like in the days of operation.
The command room nearby, where people in charge could elaborate their tactics, still resembles its original appearance, with example maps of the meteorology report on a large table.
All in all, this is really a unique top-level relic of the Cold War, also witnessing the almost paranoid effort devoted to the detailed preparation of a nuclear war, which luckily never materialized.
Getting there and moving around
The address of the bunker museum is Graniczna 20, 62-800 Kalisz, Poland. There is no sign to reach it, and it is rather mimetic – it was built for deception, and it is still hard to spot it these days! The official page is not clearly defined, but you can find some information here and here, or by searching the web for the Polish name of this site, ‘Schron Atomowy Kalisz’. Actually, the house is today used by a charitable foundation for mentally impaired people, who contributed to the restoration process.
Visiting is only possible on a guided tour, which is offered by the staff of the charitable foundation – very knowledgeable and friendly. To visit during the hours of operation, just drop in the house and find a person from the staff. I was offered a shining personalized visit by a brilliant guy speaking a perfect English.
Visiting will take about 45 minutes. Parking is possible on the street around the house, located in a nice residential borough. Highly recommended for everybody with an interest in the Cold War period!
Vineta Battery – Polish Army Command Bunker
The stronghold of Swinoujscie on the coast of the Baltic Sea, today right on the border between Poland and Germany, was formed at a time when the region was still part of the German Empire, and later of Hitler’s Third Reich. At that time, the name of the town was Swinemünde. Military facilities built in the years of the Kaiser included a massive fortress overlooking the seaport. In the years of Nazi dictatorship, right before the beginning of WWII, a larger area on Wolin island was put under military control to the east of the town, and a powerful battery with four coastal guns was put in place. A prototype of the numerous batteries soon to be built along the Atlantic Wall (for instance in France and Denmark), in Swinemünde the guns were protected by sturdy concrete bunkers open to the sides. These firing positions were complemented by a dedicated command command bunker, with range finders and aiming gear, communication gear, receiving data from a ‘Würzburg Riese’ radar in the vicinity. Also ammo storage bunkers, and half-interred concrete barracks for all the troops stationed on site were part of this fort.
Two batteries were actually built in close vicinity to one another, Goeben and Vineta, complemented with different types of guns.
Due to the evolution of the front line during WWII, these batteries saw little action. They were involved in the final attempt to repel the invading Red Army from the innermost German territory, in the closing stages of the war in 1945. Captured by the Soviets and stripped of any valuable hardware, these batteries were ceded back to the newly re-formed communist Polish government.
Under the dark clouds of the Cold War, the configuration of the new borders between the opposite blocs put the Baltic coast again on the front line. Vineta battery was heavily militarized again, and the Polish army created here a forward command post, reinforced to sustain a nuclear attack in the event of an armed conflict against NATO forces. The four firing stations of Vineta were partly interred and converted to serve as nodes in the command post, and in the 1960s finally linked by a long underground tunnel. The aiming station became the control room for the theater of war coordinated from Vineta.
The fort was one of the few high-level command posts in Poland, a top-secret location, visited since the 1960s to the 1980s by the top-ranking military staff in Poland including Wojciech Jaruzelski (at the time minister of defense, later secretary general of the communist party of Poland in the 1980s), during frequent war drills.
Left by the government after the end of communism, today the Vineta facility has been restored and opened to the public.
The original fence is still in place, and the entrance gate has been surrounded by a few original military vehicles, as well as a tactical missile!
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
From this fence a walk in the trees drives you through an inner guard line. Further on, you meet the sequence of former gun batteries, today barely visible after the Polish redesign of the Cold War years, when the bunkers where more thoroughly interred for a more effective protection.
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
You get access to the Cold War bunker from the far end of the complex, corresponding to the former easternmost gun position. Here also a major entry checkpoint from the Cold War era can be found, with a double gate and turret.
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
A long tunnel connects all posts in the battery, and was put in place by the Polish army in the 1960s.
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
One of the four firing stations was turned into a communication center during the Cold War. Much original communication gear is still in place, and the sight is made more vivid by leaving much of the electric cabinets with lights on, as in the days of operation!
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Original instructions and notice boards complete the scene.
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
A second former gun station was converted into a medical facility, with nuclear decontamination gear, as well as field emergency and medical rooms.
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Interestingly, some rooms in the naval gun bunkers have been restored to their original Third Reich appearance, when they were used to store gun shells, or as sleeping rooms for the troops, and for food storage.
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Possibly the pinnacle of the visit is the command center, to be found in the former range finding and aiming station of the battery. The former German bunker was turned by the Polish army into a military reporting and command center for the Baltic theater of war.
Access from the tunnel link is via a blast-proof tight door.
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
A short corridor interrupted by lighter tight doors gives access to a communication room and another technical room to one side.
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
To the far end of the corridor, you finally reach the main control room. The dome once used for the aiming gear was removed and closed, creating a roomy vault. This makes the bunker less oppressive than similar places elsewhere (see for instance here). However, the almost triangular plan of the room is a bit unusual.
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Computers and communication gear are all aligned along the side walls, where also large transparent panels with maps and instructions can be found. All gear is original, and make the sight very evocative!
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
In a bay to the side of the room, further communication gear can be found, likely for receiving reports and issuing cryptographed orders.
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
A very interesting original map created in the 1970s by a renowned strategist of the Polish army, colonel Ryszard Kuklinski, is one of the very interesting items on display. It portraits the likely tactics of a NATO attack to the Eastern Bloc as imagined by the communist side, and the corresponding war plan for the front in the central regions of Europe. Targets to be attacked with nuclear warfare are clearly evidenced on both sides. It is noteworthy that most of the targets for the Warsaw Pact forces are close to the coast of the North Sea, in Belgium and the Netherlands. This is in accordance with the general Soviet plans in the event of an escalation of the Cold War in Europe – pushing through central and northern Germany, to the coast of the North Sea.
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Conversely, a major direction of attack for NATO forces is from Denmark towards the Baltic coast in Poland. Also, nuclear targets for NATO include locations in the easternmost districts of the GDR, as well as in western Poland, in order to slow down the push of communist troops towards the west. Interestingly, in the GDR, two target areas for a nuclear attack include that of the airbases of Wittstock and Lärz, as well as the area of Templin, Vögelsang, Fürstenberg and Lychen.
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
The display is completed by two further rooms, a top-secret map room for the council of war, and an adjoining ‘residential’ room for the convenience of the commander of the war theater. A lay-figure of minister Jaruzelski can be found today!
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
Vineta Battery Polish Cold War Command Bunker Underground Citadel Poland
With the help of a dim lighting recreating the atmosphere, the location is very evocative of the years of military tension of the Cold War. Really a must see for everybody interested in that era!
Getting there and moving around
Despite being a top-ranking touristic destination, access is a bit deceptive. As of 2020, you need to park here (53.897569360523896, 14.333278841237572), go by foot past a working railway yard, and reach the original entrance some 0.3 miles north, with a walk along a very easy unpaved road.
The place can be toured on guided tours only, with a closed number of guests, entering on a first come, first served scheme. The friendly guide gave most speeches in Polish only, but after knowing I could not understand, he also provided info just for me in very good English. No credit cards accepted at the entrance booth. The tour takes about 1 hour, and is totally recommended for anybody with an interest in history, as well as of course for Cold War-minded people. Website with information here.
Poznan War Cemetery & Soviet Memorial
One of the largest cities in Poland, beautifully restored Poznan offers a remarkable list of points of artistic and historical interest. Comprehensibly in the list of overlooked spots in this vibrant town, a witness of the troubled 20th century history of Poland can be found in the war cemetery of Poznan, located in the peaceful park of the fortress.
Pushed from the sides by the central empires and by czarist Russia, Poland obtained an official status following WWI, only to find itself entangled in a defensive border war against the Russian Bolsheviks immediately after. The latter were fighting fiercely at that time, to impose their rule everywhere in the former territory of the Russian Empire, as well as the adjoining provinces historically under Russian influence.
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
World War Two, of course, is the responsible for most of the graves in the cemetery, which albeit in different sectors, is the resting place for soldiers of all Nations involved in the fight.
These include British troops. The corresponding sector has taken the typical official style of British war cemeteries (see this post).
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
German troops are present, and of course Soviet troops as well. Some of the Soviet soldiers were decorated with the ‘Hero of the Soviet Union’ order, duly recalled in their gravestones.
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
The end of WWII in Poland is celebrated as a victory of the Red Army, helped at that time by the Polish Army – the history of the latter in WWII is particularly complicated, since the Polish State was basically forcibly dissolved in the initial stages of WWII, by agreement of then-non-belligerent Stalin and Hitler, thus leaving the national army more or less without a chain of command and a definite territory to defend. A monument to this cooperation can be found not far from the war cemetery.
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Much more noticeable, a focal point in the fortress park is a tall obelisk, a monument to the Red Army. This was built soon after WWII, in the years of Stalin’s apotheosis. As a result, similar to other likewise monuments in Europe (like in Berlin, see here), quotes of Stalin can be found close to the base, next to an interesting Soviet-style bas-relief.
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Poznan Citadel War Cemetery and Soviet Memorial Poland
Getting there and moving around
The citadel is a huge park north of the city center. Very popular among the locals, it offers plenty of parking opportunities around. The war cemetery is located next to the Soviet monumental obelisk, which can be spotted from a distance. A walk in the war cemetery may take around 15 minutes, a possible part of a longer walk in the park.
The republic of Georgia, located on the Caucasian isthmus between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea, was founded in the turmoil following the collapse of the Czarist Empire during WWI. Located on the border with Turkey, at that time this region tried to untie from neighbor Russia, and proclaimed a libertarian socialist state.
Following the seizure of power by Lenin and the Bolsheviks, producing a devastating civil war which would go on raging all over the former Russian-controlled territory well into the 1920s, Georgia lost its independence, being sucked into the Soviet Union, similar to many other nations sharing a border with Russia – like Armenia, Azerbaijan, Belarus, Latvia, etc.
A country with a remarkable wealth of history, inhabited since when traces of mankind started to appear on earth, with a deeply rooted Christian culture since centuries, a strong independence movement started to show in Georgia already in the 1980s, when the Soviet system was still destined to last for long in the eyes of many western observers. This independence feeling would culminate in the republic of Georgia leaving the USSR months before its actual end, already in early 1991. Since then, the country is openly hostile to Russia, and the formation in the early 2000s of two de facto Russian-backed independent states – South Ossetia and Abkhazia – over the sovereign territory of Georgia witnesses a mutual state of tension between Tbilisi and Moscow, still lasting today.
Despite this, and almost paradoxically, the Georgian individual possibly best known to the general public and to the world is an eminent communist character, a one-of-a-kind contributor to the history of the USSR and of the world – and someone would say, the most authentic incarnation of a communist leader – Stalin.
While Georgia, most comprehensibly, is striving to delete every tangible trace of the Soviet era – from statues to symbols and pieces of architecture – a few notable exceptions include some of Stalin-related relics in the country. In Gori, Stalin’s hometown, the house where Stalin was born is preserved under a bombastic Soviet-era canopy. Nearby, a unique museum dedicated to the Soviet leader, opened back in the late 1950s with a display of incredible memorabilia, is reportedly the most successful attraction in town, with crowds of visitors still today.
In an old district in Tbilisi you can find another unique point of interest – the so-called Stalin Printing House Museum. It was in this unapparent house that young Stalin operated as a pro-communist clandestine agitator in the early 20th century, well before the Bolshevik revolution in Russia.
This post covers these Stalin-related remains in the man’s home country, with photographs taken in summer 2019.
Sights
Joseph Stalin Museum – Gori
Stalin’s hometown, where he was born in 1878, is dominated by a scenic ancient fortress, sitting on top of an isolated mound. At the time of Stalin’s birth, that was also the geographic center of the town. When Stalin became… Stalin, his birthplace was turned into a place of pilgrimage, and a new purely-Soviet master plan was implemented in the city, creating a new gravitational center around the modest house of his parents.
The long axis which drives you from the major access road and the railway station south of the city to the house follows an almost north-south direction. A typically Soviet alley – straight, too wide and with mostly sad-looking buildings to the sides – links a bridge over the local river to to the house, going through a square with the town hall, built in a Soviet classicist style. A tall statue of Stalin used to stand on the side of the square, and it was torn down only in the 2000s.
Joseph Stalin Birthplace Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Birthplace Georgia Soviet Relic
Closer to the house, the alley bifurcates into a ‘Y’. Between the arms of the ‘Y’ you can find a garden with fountains and flowers.
Joseph Stalin Museum Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
To the far end of the garden, the small half-timbered house where Stalin’s parents used to live is preserved under a Soviet-style canopy.
Stalin’s parents were not well-to-do, and they actually rent the house, where they occupied only one room. Back in the 19th century, it was just one in a row of similar buildings. Following the radical reshaping of the area for celebrating the Soviet leader, the whole neighborhood was completely demolished, and only this block was left.
Joseph Stalin Museum Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
On the side and front facade of the house are marble signs in Russian and Georgian. The ceiling of the canopy features a stained glass light, with hammer and sickle signs by the corners.
Joseph Stalin Museum Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
To the back of the birthplace you can find a smaller statue of Stalin. Considering his generally acknowledged status as a bloody communist dictator, similar open air statues have been removed almost everywhere in the world – this is one of the few remaining exceptions (another being in Belarus, but most likely apocryphal – look for Stalin’s line museum here).
Joseph Stalin Birthplace Georgia Soviet Relic
The most conspicuous building in this celebratory installation is the actual Joseph Stalin Museum, which occupies a pretty large palace in Stalinist style. The master plan dates back to the final years of Stalin, and its realization was carried out during the 1950s.
The building is interesting from an architectural viewpoint, and features a colonnaded porch giving access to a main entrance hall.
Joseph Stalin Birthplace Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Birthplace Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
The latter is rather formal, with another colonnade and a perspective leading through a staircase to a mezzanine. In the focus of the perspective you can see another statue of Stalin. Every particular in the architecture here is extremely Soviet – grim, menacing, heavy.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
The ticket and toilets can be accessed to the sides of the hall on the ground floor, which acts also as a meeting point for groups – but guided visits are not compulsory, you can tour the museum on your own.
Upon reaching the first floor, you meet two busts of Stalin, and a couple of interesting paintings, portraying the young Josip Vissarionovich Dzugansvili – Stalin’s its real name – as a student talking to his class mates at the seminary of Tbilisi, and later as grown-up, well-established Stalin talking to his collaborators.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
The museum is composed of a few big halls. The first rooms retrace Stalin’s personal story, and are based on a mix of documents, original or reproduced, newspapers, paintings and photographs. The latter are often reproductions, often magnified – since when he was not yet famous he mostly appeared in group photographs.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Here you learn about his humble origins, and you can see the photographs of his parents, his early school reports and the first known photographs of Josip as a young boy.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
A rather brilliant pupil, he was granted access to the Orthodox seminary in Tbilisi – which back then was called Tiflis – where he moved to attend lectures and to grow to become a priest. Some works of poetry from the time, published on local newspapers in Georgian, are part of the exhibition.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Something went wrong at that time, as he got excessively fascinated with the leftmost socialist theories, spread by several authors including Lenin. A rare naive portrait of his meeting with the principal of the seminary, when he was expelled for his unacceptable and dangerous views, is part of the collection.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
This was the beginning of a militancy period, when he became known to the department of internal affairs of the Czar due to open subversive propaganda activities. He worked irregularly, publishing clandestine works in Tbilisi (see about his printing house below), holding open-air meetings in port town Batumi, and so on.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Finally, he was arrested and deported by the Czar to inland Russia. As his fame grew, he was tasked with some role in the apparatus of the clandestine political formations headed by Lenin – the factions against the Czar and even in the socialist area were many, and the intricate civil war that followed the 1917 revolution was also the result of the struggle for power of these opposing forces.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Between internment periods, he started traveling to the capital – St. Petersburg. He also met Lenin in Tampere, Finland, a country politically bound to the Russian empire until 1917. Photographs and documents from the time, a suitcase and models of the houses where Stalin resided can be found in this part. Busts including one of Stalin as a young agitator, pretty rare and likely taken from the few portraits from the time, are also parts of the collection.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Again following a historical timeline, you can find more documents and portraits of a grown-up yet young man of the apparatus. It is well known that Lenin, after the 1917 revolution, saw Stalin as a potential problem for the future of the Party. A copy of Lenin’s ‘testament’, telling his comrades to get rid of Stalin, is on display in the exhibition. As a matter of fact, Lenin’s illness and demise in 1924 started a period of transition.
Stalin, by 1922 general secretary of the communist party of the USSR, fought and won against all other members of the communist party, making his appointment in the government the most powerful. He managed to maintain his role until his death in 1953, reigning as an unopposed tyrant at least since the end of the 1920s, when he prevailed over his most strenuous opponent, Trotzkij.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
As he started to gain power, official portraits started to appear, both paintings and photographs. These pieces of the collection are also interesting, for not many portraits of Stalin have survived in official displays, after he was condemned by his political heirs.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Also books from his speeches and prints from his personal history, to be distributed to the general public, are displayed here.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Prominence in the communist party of the USSR gained a special status also to Stalin’s family. His mother had a decent place to live, and his son payed a visit more than once – this is the subject of some portraits. A porcelain set from Stalin’s mother household is on display.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Curious artifacts in this part of the museum include a desk from some communist office of the time of Stalin’s purges.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
As a marshal in WWII – the Great Patriotic War of 1941-1945 as it was known in the USSR – Stalin reached international recognition and world fame. His ability as a general is open to critics, for he managed to kill most of the most experienced staff in the purges of the 1930s, and appointed generals – mostly like Hitler – based on their political attitude. It is questionable whether without substantial help from the then-allies of the Soviet Union (Britain and the US) a victory against Germany could have been reached, despite a disproportionate number of casualties in the rows of the Red Army. However, the final march to Berlin, which gained him control over half of Europe, raised him to the level of a world leader. The exhibition reflects this recognition, with books by Stalin translated in several languages, gifts from generals of the Red Army – including an authentic monstrosity donated to the museum by WWII hero General Zhukov in the 1960s – and many pictures from the war years.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
A showcase is dedicated to Stalin’s sons and heirs. He had five sons, from two wives and other women, and his descent is still existent today.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
A corner hall hosts a kind of monumental installation, a small Soviet monument not among the best of the kind. Made of lighted reproductions of photographs, it is a kind of recap of Stalin’s triumphs and special moments.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
The next hall concludes the climax, and is really unique. It is a circular room padded with black leather panels. At the center of a circular colonnade you can see at the level of the ground one of the few – apparently 12 – original reproductions of Stalin’s head from his death mask.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Thanks to the special installation featuring a strong symmetry and a special lighting, the head is really magnetic.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Stalin died at 75 in March 1953 in undisclosed circumstances, possibly to the hand of somebody in his entourage. Some paintings from his funeral can be seen around the room, together with a model of the mausoleum of Lenin on the Red Square in Moscow, where Stalin was interred for a few years, until removed when finally condemned by his party – note the writing in Cyrillic ‘Lenin – Stalin’ on the mausoleum, later reverted to ‘Lenin’ only.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
The next hall is dedicated to international relationships, displayed through photographs, memorabilia and the plenty of gifts Stalin received in his years as a communist dictator.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
There are presents from Georgia and other Soviet republics, and from international delegations. The latter were from both the eastern bloc – Eastern Germany, Poland, China – and most strikingly from the West, and even from NATO countries like France and Italy!
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Back to the top of the staircase, you get access to one of the highlights of the exhibition. In a final room you find on display the original furniture of Stalin’s office at the Kremlin. There is a desk with an armchair, a sofa, and a set of smaller chairs. Stylistically not very appealing, this furniture is of course of great historical relevance.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Close by, more unique items are on display in two showcases – Stalin’s personal belongings. There are a few cigars – now decomposing to age – some cigarettes, a cigarette box, a ruler, two pipes, a pen, a chessboard, a hand-written message to a friend, and some other trinkets. Finally, there is a military uniform, with boots and coat.
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum and Birthplace Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
When you have got intoxicated by the Soviet aura of this place, you can finally get out and visit the last item in the park, Stalin’s personal railway car. This was actually used by Stalin, who did not like flying, to travel around the Union and abroad. He went to Teheran and Jalta conferences during WWII in this car.
Joseph Stalin Museum Railway Car Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Railway Car Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Railway Car Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Railway Car Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Railway Car Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Railway Car Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
The car is special in having a bullet-proof armor all around – which produces a weight comparable to that of a Diesel railway engine… – and some special services, like a bathtub, a personal studio and a meeting room.
Joseph Stalin Museum Railway Car Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Railway Car Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Railway Car Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Railway Car Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Railway Car Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Railway Car Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Railway Car Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Joseph Stalin Museum Railway Car Gori Georgia Soviet Relic
Stalin’s ‘memorial park’ in Gori is really a one-of-a-kind museum, of exceptional interest for people interested to his period and his historical figure. You may be surprised by the very existence of this place, primarily because of the well-known and heavy responsibility of this man in mass-murders and misconduct as a head of state, and also because it is located in Georgia, a country openly hostile to Russia and its hard political domination, implemented through the institution of the Soviet Union. It is one of the expressions of the contradictory attitude of most peoples touched by the USSR – including Russians – towards that era. It remains a thought-provoking collection of historical value though – gifts from international delegation from the West are a vivid memory of the recognition obtained by this mass-murderer during his lifetime. They are particularly instructive about how propaganda can draw international consensus to the most unthinkable subjects.
Getting there and moving around
Getting to Georgia from the West will be hardly for Gori alone. Despite the nice, well-kept town center, with the castle and several refurbished churches and alleys, and of course the Stalin-related part, there are far more significant places to visit in Georgia, at least if you are coming from far away to this relatively hard-to-reach angle of the world. Yet Gori is located in a convenient position along the major road and railway connecting Tbilisi to Kutaisi and the coast of the Black Sea, which makes for an ideal one-day or even half-day stop.
The town is a good place to sleep, for there are a number of guesthouses and restaurants, and it does not look derelict or unsafe, differently for instance from more prominent Kutaisi. The whole Stalin-themed park, with the birthplace, museum and railway car, is rather compact, and not big, so visiting may take from 1.5 to 3 hours, depending on your level of interest. This is the main attraction in town. Strangely, I could not find an official website – this is strange for most labels are translated also in English, and there is even some merchandise, so the place is run as a modern museum. However, Google or TripAdvisor timetables were correct at least when I visited.
Plenty of public parking space around the museum.
In town there is also a war museum dedicated to the Great Patriotic War (covered here), as well as other non-communist themed attractions.
Joseph Stalin’s Underground Printing House Museum – Tbilisi
This museum was opened in Soviet times in the place of a house where young Stalin spent some time as a political agitator. His main activity related to this place was printing clandestine material.
Access it through modern Soviet buildings, with a hall which unfortunately cannot be visited.
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
The house is presented inside a small garden. There are two light buildings, a half-timbered house and a smaller hut.
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
The two are connected by a deep underground passage. This double access to the underground was of great help to evade controls by Czarist authorities. The main underground hall is original.
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Possibly intended as a food cellar, it was used to store a 19th century printing machine – made in Augsburg, Germany, as witnessed by the rusty but still readable factory label!
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
The half-timbered house is apparently a Soviet-era reproduction of the building originally in place. It is a two-rooms house, very similar to Stalin’s birth house in Gori (see above). The two rooms have been furnished with a few berths and tables, to provide an idea of the original look, and with tons of artifacts from Stalin’s and Soviet times.
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
These include portraits, photographs, books and emblems. There is also a model of a similar clandestine print house in Baku, Azerbaijan.
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
Tbilisi Stalin Underground Printing House Soviet Era Communism Museum
All in all, this place has a historical significance as Stalin’s early headquarter, and as a Soviet place of pilgrimage. Differently from Stalin-themed park in Gori, it has been basically forgotten – it is kept open by aged volunteers.
Getting there and moving around
The museum is located at the following GPS coordinates – 41.690454, 44.829999. It is located west of Tbilisi city center, at a walking distance from it, but the walk is not recommended for the neighborhood is nothing special. Going by car or taxi is more time-efficient. Public parking on the street available around the block.
There is no official website to my knowledge. Entrance is by cash only, free offer. See Google for opening times, which are mainly in the central hours of the day. You can visit on your own, but one of the local enthusiasts running the museum will likely provide some information, and there is also a basic leaflet in English. Visiting may take about .5 hours.
The murder of President Kennedy in Dallas on November 22nd, 1963 is possibly one of the most well-known news stories from the 20th century. Since then, most theories put forward by both the official prosecutors and wannabe investigators after the crime never appeared completely acceptable.
The main defendant, Lee Harvey Oswald, was shot dead by likely-mafia-affiliated Jack Ruby, two days after Kennedy had been shot. This happened before any court hearing of Oswald, who always protested his complete innocence.
But Oswald was spotted on the crime scene, and his life before that fatal day had not been normal in any respect. Grown up a very poor man from the New Orleans, he enlisted in the USMC, spent years in Japan, changed home at a high pace in the continental US, between New York and Louisiana, learned Russian, applied for Soviet citizenship, established himself in an fantastic flat in Minsk, Belarus (see this account about Minsk), at the height of the Cold War, married a lady from the USSR, moved back to the US with his wife and their baby, collaborated with communist movements in America while living of nothing in the south of the Nation, appeared in Cuba and Mexico in the years of the Kennedy administration, and finally decided it was time to kill President Kennedy, accused by a part of the military and political establishment of being excessively left-leaning during his years at the White House.
Maybe this man materially acted alone on the day of the shooting – something strongly adversed by many eyewitnesses and even scientists and analysts, based on ballistics – but with a curriculum so pointed of oddities, especially for the geopolitical situation of the 1950s and early 1960s, it is hard to imagine he was not part of something bigger.
An excessive number of pretended coincidences in the reconstruction by the investigators have largely discredited the official theories, in turn creating a mystery around the actual crime.
As time is passing and people involved are disappearing, chance to find the truth about the intricate plot behind the assassination are waning. Yet this unsolved crime has fueled decades of controversy, with tens if not hundreds of books written, as well as TV series and blockbuster movies produced – and it is still an intriguing topic for many, who come to see the famous Dealey Plaza in Dallas, where the shooting took place, making the local museum in the Texas School Book Repository one of Texas’ five all-time most visited attractions.
Being in the exact place where the famous Zapruder movie was recorded produces of course a strong impression. Yet there are more places in Dallas and Fort Worth related to the famous last visit of JFK to this major industrial focus of the nation, which albeit less impressive than the actual crime scene, may be interesting to find and visit for the most committed visitors.
This post portrays some of the most famous and of the least known places connected with Kennedy fateful 1963 trip to Texas. Photographs were taken in summer 2018.
Map
This map reports the focal points of President Kennedy’s visit to Texas on November 21st-22nd, 1963.
Kennedy flew in and out Fort Worth from Carswell AFB (now NAS Fort Worth reserve base), arriving on November 21st, and departing in the morning of November 22nd to Dallas Love Field – a very short hop for Air Force One.
You can see places in Fort Worth and Dallas connected with both the actual and scheduled route of Kennedy’s visit (blue placeholders), plus the route of the motorcade from Love Field to Dealey Plaza and back (blue line), with a stop at Parkland Memorial Hospital, where JFK was pronounced dead at 1:00 pm, November 22nd.
Orange placeholders are locations connected with the shooting – where JFK was (surely) hit, famous spots on the crime scene, etc.
The movements of L.H. Oswald have been partly reconstructed by the prosecutors, where some have been ascertained based on sightings by witnesses. These are shown in yellow and red respectively on the map. Red placeholders show the location of Oswald sightings or places connected with his story.
Green placeholders show the positions of notable monuments connected with the assassination of President Kennedy.
Sights are listed going along the time-line of the days of JFK’s visit.
Hotel Texas (now Hilton) & JFK Tribute, Fort Worth
President Kennedy spent the night between November 21st and 22nd in the Texas Hotel, located on Main Street in central Fort Worth. Today this nice, early 1920s building is still there, listed among historic landmarks. It has changed hands more times in the last decades, and is now run by Hilton, with the name Hilton Fort Worth. Built on the opposite side of the square where the convention center is located, it is still today a primary business hotel in town.
Kennedy Assassination Fort Worth Last Speech
Kennedy Assassination Fort Worth Last Speech
Kennedy Assassination Fort Worth Last Speech
In the square ahead of the hotel is a monument dedicated to JFK, with a statue and citations. This was the location of the last public speech the President gave, before breakfast on November 22nd.
Kennedy Assassination Fort Worth Last Speech
Kennedy Assassination Fort Worth Last Speech
Kennedy Assassination Fort Worth Last Speech
Later on that day, he held a scheduled speech in a hall of Hotel Texas, before going to Carswell AFB (now NAS Fort Worth), west of downtown, to board Air Force One to Dallas Love Field. Air Force Two soon followed.
Dealey Plaza, Dallas
Monuments in Dealey Plaza
The curious composition of white colonnades and pergola-shaped monuments in Dealey Plaza is the result of an architectural master plan for the area, completed in 1940.
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Dealey Plaza Monument
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Dealey Plaza
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Dealey Plaza Monument
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Dealey Plaza Monument
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Dealey Plaza Monument
Despite the weird aura that will enshroud the square for many years to come, the composition is actually very nice, with two opposing fountains ahead of the colonnades welcoming you when entering the square from Main Street. This is exactly what the motorcade did, turning right on Houston Street and first left on Elm street, where JFK was hit (see map).
The pergola on the ‘grassy knoll’
The northernmost part of the composition in Dealey Plaza is a curved white pergola, placed on top of a knoll, at an elevation of roughly 10 ft above the road. This is a vantage point for watching Elm street, which starts descending gently from Houston Street towards the railway triple underpass. It was here that Zapruder was standing, together with many eyewitnesses, shooting his now super-famous video (see map).
You can get a 360° view from close where Zapruder was standing from this video.
Here you see an example photo sequence of a car passing by along Elm Street, following the same route of the presidential motorcade.
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Locations
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Locations
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Locations
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Locations
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Locations
A crowd was standing also on the southern side of Elm Street, at the level of the road, from where the pergola and the wooden fence on top of the grassy knoll can be seen very clearly. Looking uphill towards Houston Street, you can see the Texas School Book Repository, and the half-open window from were somebody fired at the motorcade.
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Grassy Knoll
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Dealey Plaza
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Dealey Plaza
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Grassy Knoll
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Grassy Knoll
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Grassy Knoll
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Dealey Plaza
‘X-marks’ on Elm Street
Two white X-marks have been painted on the ground where, based on official investigation and findings, President Kennedy was hit, while his motorcade was driving along Elm Street.
The first is located immediately after the crossing with Houston Street, where the motorcade turned left. The pictures below shows the window on the sixth floor of the book repository from the spot of the hit (actually behind a tree), and the wooden fence under the trees on top of the grassy knoll. The wooden fence has been indicated by many as the position of a second shooter, and some have sustained they saw shots coming from there.
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas View Shot
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas View Shot
Taking into account the elevation from the ground of the window on the sixth floor of the book repository, the total distance to this first X-mark is similar to that from the fence. Yet the trajectory of a shot from the fence would have come dangerously close to Zapruder and all folks between the knoll and the sidewalk.
The second X-mark, that of the fatal shot to the President’s head, is located further west. Looking from here again to the window on the sixth floor and to the fence, it is apparent that the latter spot would be a far easier point for shooting – very close -, while on the other hand recording a hit from the former would be a real challenge.
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas View Shot
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas View Shot
Close by the X-mark corresponding to the fatal shot, the National Historic Landmark placard of Dealey Plaza has been placed on the sidewalk.
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Locations
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas View Shot
You can get a clear impression of how fast everything must have happened watching this video of my car running along the route of the motorcade, from Main Street down to under the triple underpass.
Kennedy Assassination Location Elm Street Car View
Kennedy Assassination Location Elm Street Car View
Kennedy Assassination Location Elm Street Car View
The wooden fence on top of the ‘grassy knoll’
The fence on top of the grassy knoll divides the grass on the northern end of Dealey Plaza from a parking area on the side of the book repository. The elevation over Elm Street and the little distance from it, makes this place a good spot for targeting a car passing on the position of the second X-mark – that corresponding to the fatal shot.
To the back of the fence, the old railway switching tower from the 1910s played a part in the mystery. On the morning of the assassination, Lee Bowers was on service in the tower. He reported to the prosecutors that about 15 minutes before the shooting he had noticed a car slowly circling in the parking. At the time of the shooting two figures were standing by the fence, and he saw fire and smoke coming from their position. He provided details about the cars and an these men.
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Railway Control Station
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Railway Control Station
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Railway Control Station
Lee Bowers died in a car crash without witnesses in summer 1966, when he gently launched his car out of the road while driving alone in the countryside somewhere near Midlothian, south of Dallas.
The triple underpass
This Art Deco railway bridge, dating from older times than the monuments in Dealey Plaza, is another good vantage point for a comprehensive sight of the stage of the assassination.
It has been supported that a witness standing on the grass south of Elm Street and close to the underpass was wounded by a fragment of the curb, produced by a bullet hit. This might have been a missed shot.
Texas School Book Repository & Sixth Floor Museum, Dallas
The building of the book repository, located on the northern side of the crossing between Houston and Elm, has been taken over by the city government for administrative functions. A museum has been opened on the sixth floor, from where shots were allegedly fired against the motorcade.
The museum is very modern. After paying by the entrance, you are given an audio-guide and you are directed to an elevator going up to the sixth floor.
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Grassy Book Repository
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Grassy Book Repository
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald
You can walk along a nice exhibition mostly based on tons of photographs and reproductions of original documents, papers, agencies, documents, dossiers, and so on. Before showing the chronicle of events during the last trip of JFK and the events of the assassination, you are told about the general political and social situation in the years of Kennedy administration, so as to reconstruct the big picture and the meaning of this trip. There was much criticism about it, and you can see some unwelcoming headlines from newspapers, telling about a tense political situation in Texas. There are several videos playing loop.
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Paper Protest
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Paper Protest
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Paper Protest
Of course, an accurate reconstruction of the shooting is the main topic of the exhibition. Frames from the many videos recorded by the witnesses allow to have an almost second-by-second account of the last minute in the life of JFK.
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Motorcade
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Motorcade
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Motorcade
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Motorcade
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Motorcade
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Motorcade
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Motorcade
Far less known than others are some pictures of the motorcade taken seconds after the shooting, when the cars accelerated under the triple underpass, with men of the secret service bent over the wounded President. Witnesses on the opposite side of the underpass had not noticed the shooting, and they were probably stunned watching the motorcade rushing away.
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Motorcade Escape
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Motorcade Escape
There is a dinner set from the scheduled luncheon Kennedy was heading to, prepared in the Dallas Trade Mart. A picture of the announcement of the assassination to the attendees of the luncheon waiting for the President is particularly striking. Detailed maps are displayed of the motorcade route, of the movements of L.H. Oswald, and of the emergency rooms of the Parkland Memorial Hospital where JFK, Vice President Johnson and Governor Connelly were given medical assistance.
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Failed Party
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Failed Party
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Failed Party
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Parkland Hospital
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Model
A highlight of the museum is the area around the corner window from where shots were fired. An accurate reconstruction of the exact position of the boxes around the shooter’s position has been set up, based on photographs from the time.
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Window Library
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Window Library
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Window Library
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Window Library
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Window Library
Access to the window is interdicted, but you can get an idea of the view enjoyed from there from the third window from the corner.
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Window Library View
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Window Library View
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Window Library View
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Window Library
Further items of interest include cameras and video recorders used by the witnesses, and a detailed map of the standpoints of most witnesses who made a video recording, or did take pictures.
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Camera
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Camera
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Video Recorders
An area of the exhibition is dedicated to Oswald, his arrest and his murder in the Police headquarters, which took place on November 24th, 2 days after JFK was killed. You can see copies of official documents, a ring belonging to L.H.Oswald, and the suit worn by Detective Jim Leavelle – the man portrayed in the video of the assassination of L.H. Oswald by Jack Ruby, leading Oswald out. At the time of writing, Texas-borne Jim Leavelle, borne 1920, is one of the few living primary witnesses of that dramatic episode.
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Movements Arrest
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Movements Tippit Murder
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Movements
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Finger Palm Prints
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Evidence
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Camera
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Ruby
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Ruby
Finally, the place where the old rifle used to fire at the motorcade from the window was found soon after the shooting, with Oswald fingerprints, has been reconstructed with the same accuracy of the firing position.
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Movements
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald Rifle Location
Sixth Floor Museum Dallas Kennedy Assassination Oswald
Parkland Memorial Hospital, Dallas
After the shooting, the motorcade accelerated keeping on the scheduled route (see map). It is noteworthy that the Trade Mart, where JFK should have had lunch, is not far from the Parkland Memorial Hospital, which is between the Trade Mart building and Love Field (see map).
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas Parkland Memorial Hospital
President Kennedy and Governor Connelly were quickly drawn into emergency rooms, whereas soon-to-be-president Lyndon B. Johnson received medical attention in another area.
Officer Tippit’s Murder Scene, Dallas
Soon after he was spotted in the Texas School Book Repository minutes after the shooting, L.H. Oswald left for home. Initially caught in the traffic after taking a bus, he moved around pointlessly not far from Dealey Plaza, finally taking a cab to go home. He got off some blocks past his house, where he returned by foot (see map). He soon left, and at about 1:15 pm, 45 minutes after the assassination of JFK, he reportedly killed police officer Tippit in a quiet residential area. The place is marked by a placard (see map).
Lee Harvey Oswald was arrested less than an hour later, on account of Tippit’s murder. Only hours after his arrest, during the night of November 22nd, he was accused of the assassination of President Kennedy.
Texas Theater, Dallas
After shooting officer Tippit, Oswald left along Jefferson Boulevard, presumably walking to the Texas Theater. This movie theater, with a flamboyant front facade, used to be owned by Howard Hughes, and it was the first in Texas with air conditioning.
L.H. Oswald was arrested at about 1:50 pm, about ten minutes after he had entered the theater, 1 hour and 20 minutes after the murder of JFK.
JFK Memorial Plaza, Dallas
A monument to President Kennedy, designed by Philip Johnson, was erected in 1970 one block east of Dealey Plaza (see map). The monument, made of concrete, resembles an empty tomb.
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas JFK Memorial Plaza
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas JFK Memorial Plaza
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas JFK Memorial Plaza
Kennedy Assassination Oswald Dallas JFK Memorial Plaza
Getting There and Moving Around
The JFK monument in Fort Worth is in a public park, as well as the JFK memorial in Dallas. They can be neared at all times.
Dealey Plaza is regularly open to car traffic, as you can see from the videos above. Parking is possible in the many public parkings around the area. Once there, you can move around freely at all times.
I drove along all the route of Kennedy’s motorcade, which except for a few closed roads can be done still today. Very nice indeed, as you will cross beautiful downtown Dallas. Of course, you can follow the route of Kennedy’s car in Dealey Plaza, as shown in the videos above.
The Sixth Floor Museum at Dealey Plaza is a world-class, up-to-date museum, and one of the most visited attractions in Texas. Website here.
While almost all nuclear sites you can find in European Countries once beyond the Iron Curtain are today totally abandoned and fairly unaccessible, there exists a perhaps unique exception. The Plokstine site in northwestern Lithuania has been selected around 2010 for complete refurbishment with the help of public money, and in 2012 it has opened its doors as a museum. Located in a beautiful natural setting crowded with hikers – namely Zemaitija National Park, a national recreation area around Plateliai lake – it has quickly grown to international fame, and is now recording several thousands visitors per year, with guided tours in multiple languages – including English – offered on a regular basis during the warm season.
What is today an intriguing tourist destination, used to be part of a large Soviet installation for launching ballistic missiles armed with nuclear warheads. It is worth mentioning that Lithuania was a ‘Soviet Socialist Republic’ in the realm of the USSR, i.e. not just a satellite country of the Soviet Union, but part of it. Actually, this small country on the shores of the Baltic Sea, on the extreme western border of Soviet territory, was an ideal location for deploying weapons to hit European targets from within the Union. Furthermore, the Plokstine forest was – and still is – a little populated area, where construction works for a large top-secret military facility for storing and operating offensive cutting-edge hi-tech warfare would go likely unnoticed.
The missile complex was completed in December 1962, in the years of Khrushchev and Kennedy. The Plokstine site comprises of four interred silos and an extensive underground command station in the middle – the ensemble constituted a so-called ‘Dvina’ launch complex.
The ‘Dvina’ site in Plokstine was actually the last part of the missile base to be built. Two more sister surface sites, with four launchpads each, had been completed one year before, just west of the nearby village of Saiteikiai. These surface sites were similar to those you can find in Latvia (see this post), a neighbor country where unfortunately the last remaining ‘Dvina’ site was demolished in 2017, but abundant traces of the Soviet presence can still be found.
All three launch complexes in this region were designed around the R-12 missile. The R-12U missile was actually used in the underground ‘Dvina’ complex, slightly different from the surface-launched R-12. This weapon was better known by its NATO designation – SS-4 Sandal – and was a 2.3 megaton, single warhead, single stage nuclear missile. It reached true international notoriety before the base in Plokstine was activated, for this was the type deployed to Cuba in the missile crisis of 1962. Coincidentally, part of the staff transferred to Cuba in the days preceding the crisis was from the same rocket regiment of the Red Army (the 79th) stationed in Plokstine. Sandal missiles from here were reportedly transferred in complete secrecy to Cuba, via the port town of Sevastopol in Crimea in that occasion.
The base remained operational until the last missile – by then obsolete – left in 1978.
The Baltics were the first republics to leave the dying Soviet Union, openly defying the military authority of neighbor Russia. After the collapse of the Union and the end of communism in Europe, these three states – which historically do not belong to Russian culture – quickly joined the NATO and European Union, to escape Russian influence as much as possible. Most Soviet military installations were shut down and abandoned, and have been for two decades an interesting destination for explorers and war historians (see this post for many examples). Later on, most sites have been slowly demolished or converted into something else. Really a few of them have been preserved for posterity.
In this post you can find photographs from the Cold War Museum now open in the former ‘Dvina’ site of Plokstine, from a visit in 2017. Close to the bottom, you can find a few further photographs from a previous visit made by appointment in 2009, before the site was selected for renovation – these may be more appealing for Soviet-aura lovers!
Sights
What can be visited today is all in the area of the old ‘Dvina’ complex. The complex is mainly composed of four interred silos, covered by heavy steel & concrete bulged covers, placed on the four corners of a square. These gigantic caps are the most prominent components of the site from the outside. Today, an observation deck has been erected on the south of the area. From there, you can appreciate the distinctive plan of the ‘Dvina’ complex, with an access road terminating in a loop touching all four armored silo covers.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
The weight of each cover is told to be around 100 tonnes, as it was armored to withstand a nuclear explosion. The covers would be pulled sideward with a sled mechanism, to open the silos before launch. Unmovable missile launch complexes, like the ‘Dvina’ site in Plokstine, were easy and attractive targets for western weapons, thus requiring a very strong defense barrier. Similar considerations led the design of the Titan missile sites in the US, which albeit more powerful and capable of a greater range, are roughly from the same era (see this post).
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
To get near the silos or get access to the museum, you need to pay a ticket and join a guided tour. The visit includes a tour of the Cold War Museum, which has been prepared inside the rooms of the former control center. The tour will start from the visitor center, a new modern building. You will soon go through a specimen of the original fences which ran around the ‘Dvina’ complex, and which included barbed wire and high-voltage electrified lines. Close by, you can find traces of original unarmored constructions, likely service buildings. The missile site was operated by more than 300 troops stationing in a number of smaller centers in the area around the complex.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
The guide will lead you along a walk around the surface part of the complex, where you can see the construction of the caps from very close. The metal part is very rusty, but the concrete cover has been refurbished and looks like new – a pretty unusual sight, for connoisseurs of Soviet military relics!
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Access to the underground missile service and control center is via a small metal door, right in the middle of the square formed by the four silos.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
A few rooms in the control center today host the exhibitions of the Cold War Museum. A room displays a quick time-line of the Cold War, since the end of WWII to the end of the USSR. In the adjoining rooms you can find propaganda items
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Another room is about defense against nuclear threat. This is interesting, with many artifacts like dosimeters and medical tools, plus easily readable instructions of ‘dos and don’ts’ in case of nuclear attack.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Another room is about the evolution of weapons over the Cold War decades, with original material from the time, including heavier tactical weapons.
The exhibition is modern, small but not superficial, and may appeal to any public, including children. Besides the exhibits, you can appreciate the relatively small size of all rooms and connecting corridors in the former control center.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
As you are driven next to the missile operation part, you can find a scale model of the ‘Dvina’ complex and a cut-out of a R-12U silo, together with a map of the relatively few missile sites in Lithuania – from the map, it can be argued that, for some reason, many more sites were prepared in nearby Latvia.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Resting quarters for the troops and a communication station with original electronic gear have been reconstructed based on original footage and pics. Communication with the military headquarters was clearly an essential task – it was the only way an order to launch could be issued – and the serviceman on duty was responsible for assuring a permanent link with the chain of command. In other words, he was instructed not to leave his headphones under any circumstances, during a several hours-long shift!
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
On the sides of the corridors you can see holes for the extensive network of cables and pipes. Further on, you meet the most ‘hardware’ part of the exhibition. First, the original diesel-fueled power generator has been refurbished and is standing in its original room. The underground complex was designed not only to withstand a nuclear blast, but also to provide shelter for all servicemen for several days following an attack. This meant air filters, food, water, technical supplies and of course electrical power, were all essential assets. Oil for the generator was stored in a container in an adjoining room.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Finally, you get access to one of the four silos. You need to go through a tight door opened on the wall of the concrete structure of the control center. Writings in Cyrillic can be spotted on the walls in this area. From there, you will see the cylindrical shape of the metal structure of the silo from the side. This metal canister is really big, the ‘Dvina’ silos featured a much greater diameter than the SS-4 missile they were built for. This was somewhat different from their US counterpart (see this post), where the missile diameter fits the size of the silo without much margin.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
You can get access to the silo via the original hatch, cut in the metal wall close to the rim on top of the silo, just beneath the external cap. Going through this hatch is incredibly difficult – it is extremely narrow, much longer than the size of a human step, and tilted upwards! It is hard to understand why the Soviets built it in a size so small – this applies to the control center too, for all corridors are really narrow and the ceiling in the rooms is so low you may easily need to bend forward! For those who don’t want to try the original entry to the silo, there is now a non-original door cut in the side of the canister.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War
The inside of the silo can be observed from an original service deck, immediately under the external cover. From here you can clearly appreciate the size of the construction – the missile was more than 70 ft long, and sat here in a vertical position. The SS-4 was among the first missiles to make use of a storable liquid propellant, which allowed it to stay in almost-launch-ready conditions for a prolonged time, if resting in a silo. Nonetheless, the time for opening the armored caps was about 30 minutes, which meant this was not exactly quick to launch. The understructure of the armored caps can be clearly appreciated from inside the silo.
Photographs Before Restoration Works – Ghost Base
When I visited this site for the first time in 2009, it was open only by appointment. Unfortunately, I had only a compact camera at the time, and the very low light inside plus a rainy day outside, meant I could take only a few acceptable pictures.
However, they provide an idea of the state of the ‘Dvina’ complex before it was decided to reconfigure it as a museum.
As you can see, the armored silo caps were in a worse shape than today, yet not heavily damaged. The barbed wire fence around the four silos was probably original Soviet.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Inside, the control rooms were basically empty, except for some communist emblems and flags. Green wall paint and Cyrillic writings could be found even at the time, so what you see today is likely original. The generator, whilst in bad shape, was there.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
The silo could be accessed only via the original hatch, and except for the partial darkness, its appearance is similar today.
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
Dvina Plokstine SS-4 Sandal Soviet Missile Base Lithuania Cold War Old Before Restoration
It is out of doubt that the ‘Soviet ghost aura’ of the base was somewhat lost in the restoration process, yet credit must be given to the effort of the local government in preserving a rare and relevant trace of military history through an expensive restoration process.
Getting there and moving around
The Cold War Museum (Šaltojo karo muziejus in the local idiom) is located in the Zemaitija National Park, northwestern Lithuania, east of lake Plateliai. Access is via the road 2302. The place is totally accessible and well advertised locally. Visiting the outside of the armored caps and inside is possible only with a guided tour, offered in many languages including English, and lasting about 50 minutes. No fee is required for climbing on top of the observation deck. Full information through the official website here.
Founded as a trading post back in the 5th century in the Ostrogoth region on the far eastern border of the Roman Empire, Kiev later grew to become the capital of the first ‘Rus’ in early medieval times. The ‘Rus’ embraced a vast territory between todays Eastern Europe, the Caucasus and Western Russia. Centuries later, after a war lost against the Mongols and having changed hands more than once, it finally became part of the Czarist Empire.
In Soviet times, Kiev was the capital of the second largest Socialist Republic of the Union, i.e. the Ukraine. This large and fertile land, not subject to the exceptionally harsh winters typical to the majority of Russian territories, features a long coast with several port towns on the Black Sea, and since the Bolshevik Revolution and the Russian Civil War, it accounted for a good share of the population and workforce of the USSR.
Despite being kept in great consideration by the Soviet central government for its economic and military value, the Ukraine was among the fiercest opponents of the Bolshevik revolution back in the years of Lenin and the Russian Civil War. Some top-ranking Soviet leaders actually came from this Country, but that it remained separated from Russia even in Soviet times was not just by chance.
As a matter of fact, after the collapse of the USSR, the Ukraine immediately left for independence, entering a very difficult transitional phase, which is basically still lasting today. The general weakness of all recent presidential administrations, the claims of ownership over the former national industries and natural resources by private owners, and substantial border controversies with Russia, have produced living conditions for the population which are much lower than for other ex-USSR countries like Russia, the Baltics or Belarus.
All these pieces of national history are reflected in Kiev, a very large city where you hear echoes from all the eras of its complicated past. This chapter presents a quick account of the highlights of Kiev’s heritage from older and newer times, providing also an impression of how this town is evolving today. Photographs were taken in spring 2018, and portray a bit of everything, from spectacular Orthodox temples to gigantic Soviet statues, cannons from WWII, the Chernobyl Museum, panorama views of the city and more!
Map
The map below shows the location of everything described or portrayed in this post.
Pictures were taken mostly in central Kiev, itself a pretty extensive area, served by public transport, but more quickly and efficiently explored by taxi. As of today (2019), the cost of life for a visiting westerner is incredibly low, so even taking a taxi for every shift is not inconceivable.
Of course, there are some parts of the central district which are interesting to explore by walk, and if you are a well-trained type you might simply spend your day walking from a destination to the other – getting a more complete view of the city center, and avoiding traffic jams which constantly plague the city.
I really enjoy driving, but in Kiev I would not suggest moving around with a car on your own, cause traffic is really a nightmare, traffic flows are fuzzy and chaotic, so you may be easily wasting your time, letting aside the chance of accidents and damage to your car.
The central districts appear reasonably safe, so you may relax and move around by foot, taking all the pictures.
If you want to start you exploration with a true masterpiece, then head directly to the very central Saint Sophia’s Cathedral. This glorious church and monastery founded around the year 1000 AD was renewed and modified over the centuries, but the main features of the central church have remained basically unaltered since its origin.
Kiev Saint Sophia
Kiev Saint Sophia
Kiev Saint Sophia
Kiev Saint Sophia
Kiev Saint Sophia
Kiev Saint Sophia
Kiev Architecture Panorama
Access to the monastery grounds are via the tall bell tower. You can also climb upstairs, very much advised to enjoy a very good view of Kiev’s central districts, including the nearby church of Saint Michael.
Kiev Saint Michael
Kiev Saint Sophia Panorama
Kiev Soviet Architecture Panorama
Kiev Soviet Architecture Panorama
Kiev Soviet Architecture Panorama Government
Kiev Architecture Panorama
Kiev Architecture Panorama
Kiev Architecture Panorama
Kiev Architecture Panorama
Looking farther, you can appreciate the size of the outskirts of the city, which is really extensive. The typical Soviet/post-Soviet amenity of the most peripheral districts is readily apparent. There is also a plant looking like an oil power plant, with giant red and white chimneys, right in town.
Kiev Soviet Architecture Panorama
Kiev Soviet Architecture Panorama
Kiev Soviet Architecture Panorama
Kiev Soviet Architecture Panorama
The majestic river Dnepr can be barely seen from here, looking east.
From the outside the church in the monastery – resembling the plan of Saint Sophia’s Cathedral in Constantinople – is a masterpiece, but the mosaics inside are really unmissable.
Kiev Saint Sophia Cathedral Monastery
Kiev Saint Sophia Cathedral Monastery
Kiev Saint Sophia Cathedral Monastery
Kiev Saint Sophia Cathedral Monastery
Kiev Saint Sophia
Unfortunately, taking pictures inside is strictly forbidden (many guards around).
Saint Andrew’s Church & Ministry of Foreign Affairs
A quick detour to the east from the alley connecting Saint Sophia’s to Saint Michael’s Cathedral, Saint Andrew’s Cathedral is a nice example of Czarist Rococo style. Unfortunately the church was undergoing renovation inside at the time of my visit.
Kiev Saint Andrew Cathedral
Kiev Saint Andrew Cathedral
On the way from Saint Andrew’s Cathedral to Saint Michael’s Cathedral you can find a Soviet monolith, today the Ukrainian Ministry of Foreign Affairs. The building, with a line of prominent columns aligned ahead of the façade, was built over a terrain formerly part of Saint Michael’s Monastery.
Kiev Ministry of Foreign Affairs Soviet Architecture
Kiev Ministry of Foreign Affairs Soviet Architecture
Saint Michael’s Cathedral
This beautiful church, with distinctive golden domes, was reconstructed in its baroque form in the late 1990s, after it had been completely demolished in the 1930s, among the darkest hours of Stalin’s communist dictatorship. The ancient mosaics which adorned the original church, dating back to the Byzantine period, were transferred to major museums of the USSR before demolition took place.
Kiev Saint Michael Monastery
Kiev Saint Sophia Monastery
Kiev Saint Michael Monastery
Kiev Saint Michael Monastery
Kiev Saint Michael Monastery
Kiev Saint Michael Monastery
Kiev Saint Michael Monastery
Kiev Saint Michael Monastery
The accurate reconstruction work has produced a beautiful ensemble, with a church in the middle, a tower over the main gate, and several smaller buildings. The contrast between the blue façade walls and the golden roof produces a very nice chromatic effect.
Kiev Saint Michael Monastery
Kiev Saint Michael Monastery
Kiev Saint Michael Monastery
Kiev Saint Michael Monastery
Kiev Saint Michael Monastery
Kiev Saint Michael Monastery
Kiev Saint Michael Monastery
Kiev Saint Michael Monastery
Kiev Saint Michael Monastery
Kiev Saint Michael Monastery
Friendship of Nations Monument
Descending towards the river from Saint Michael’s Cathedral, you soon reach an artery of the city called Kreshchatyy, and a typical soviet building – the Ukrainian House, today a congress center. This artery leads to the central Independence Square.
Kiev Ukrainian House Congress Center
Kiev Ukrainian House Congress Center Kreshchatyy
Next to the Ukrainian House you can find the head of short promenade leading to a balcony with a gorgeous view of the Dnepr. Going there, you pass under an arch, framing some sculptures including a – strangely – moderate soviet memorial, the Friendship of Nations Monument.
Kiev Friendship of Nations Soviet Monument
Kiev Friendship of Nations Soviet Monument
Kiev Friendship of Nations Soviet Monument
Kiev Friendship of Nations Soviet Monument
Kiev Friendship of Nations Soviet Monument
Kiev Friendship of Nations Soviet Monument
Kiev Friendship of Nations Soviet Monument
Kiev Friendship of Nations Soviet Monument
Kiev Friendship of Nations Soviet Monument
Kiev Friendship of Nations Soviet Monument
Kiev Friendship of Nations Soviet Monument
The size of the Dnepr is impressive. The balcony is a vantage point for a panorama view of the northern and eastern districts of Kiev.
Kiev Soviet Architecture Panorama Dnepr River
Kiev Friendship of Nations Soviet Monument
Kiev Soviet Architecture Panorama Dnepr River
Kiev Soviet Architecture Panorama Dnepr River
Governmental District
Taking to the south from the Friendship of Nations Monument you get access to an extensive city park. Immersed in this park are the residence of the President of the Ukraine – Marijnsky Palace. This is a fancy blue and cream palace, with a nice Italian-style garden ahead of it. It is still working, so it is usually off-limits for tourists. A great panorama to the east can be seen from besides the palace.
Next to the presidential residence you can find the small Parliament Building.
Kiev Parliament Ukraine
Kiev Soviet Hotel International Kijv
Kiev Soviet Hotel International Kijv
Kiev Soviet Hotel International Kijv
Kiev Soviet Hotel International Kijv
On the border of the park you can find the International Hotel Kiev, part of the soviet heritage. The park is pointed with many soviet statues and memorials, as well. To southern end of the park you meet the area of the old arsenal. The metro stop there resembles some of the stations in Moscow.
Kiev Soviet Architecture Monument
Kiev Soviet Architecture Monument
Kiev Soviet Architecture Monument
Kiev Soviet Architecture Monument
Kiev Soviet Architecture Monument
Kiev Soviet Architecture Monument
Kiev Soviet Architecture Monument
Further south you come to what is probably one of the most popular area among tourists, you meet more soviet buildings, including old soviet hotels.
Monument to the Unknown Soldier
The southern end of the governmental district is marked by the nice area on top of a cliff rapidly descending to the river. Here you will find the sober Monument to the Unknown Soldier. The focus of the monument is an obelisk with an eternal flame nearby. Access to the obelisk is via an alley with commemorative slabs along the sides.
Kiev Monument to Unknown Soldier
Kiev Monument to Unknown Soldier
Kiev Monument to Unknown Soldier
Kiev Monument to Unknown Soldier
Kiev Monument to Unknown Soldier
The obelisk is constantly guarded by the military. The area is quiet and nice to stay. The panorama to the east is again really gorgeous.
Kiev Unknown Soldier Panorama
Kiev Soviet Architecture Panorama
Kiev Soviet Architecture Panorama
Kiev Soviet Architecture Panorama
Kiev Soviet Architecture Panorama
Immediately south of the obelisk, it is possible to see a monument to the victims of the Holodomor Genocide. This was a famine intentionally caused by Stalin in the year 1933, in support of the industrial development plans. By conveying all the food to the cities with industrial plants, and simultaneously prohibiting any movement to Soviet citizens among districts within the Union, Stalin and the Soviet Government set the stage for one of the worst famines in European history, causing millions of victims among farmers and the rural population. The rural population of the Ukraine was among the most hit by this move.
Kiev Holodomor Genocide Memorial
Kiev Holodomor Genocide Memorial
Kiev Holodomor Genocide Memorial
Pecerska Lavra Monastery
This is probably the best known monument in Kiev. This immense monastic complex is basically a citadel, with several churches scattered over a large area descending towards the river. Besides the churches, it is possible to find several buildings with refectories, dorms and more, plus an incredible museum with some incredible treasures from ancient times.
The churches date from different epochs, and some have been altered over the years. The most prominent, nearby the entrance, is in baroque style, with a tall tower ahead of it.
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
The size of the monastery is really striking, and it is very lively, with religious services and related activities often taking place.
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
The archaeological museum with its golden treasure is surprisingly rich and valuable.
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery Museum Treasure
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery Museum Treasure
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery Museum Treasure
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery Museum Treasure
A less usual feature of the monastery is an Orthodox church dating from the late Czarist age, late 19th-early 20th century. It reflects the typical innovative style of the time, without departing from the classical subjects of the Orthodox iconography.
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
One of the most famous features of the Lavra is the catacomb with the mommies of the monks. This is really impressive, cause the tunnels are very narrow and dark, and you go there with a small candle. Taking pictures is strictly forbidden, and technically very difficult, due to the low light of the place.
Kiev Monument Victory Soviet Statue Gigantic Patriotic War
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Kiev Pecerska Lavra Monastery
Looking south from the beautiful area of the Pecerska Lavra Monastery, you can spot the most prominent Soviet monument in Kiev – the Motherland Monument.
The Local Conflicts Museum
Accessing the area dominated by the immense statue to the Motherland from north, you find some damaged military vehicles. These are Russian vehicles requisitioned by the Ukrainian military in the course of the recent tensions which led to the annexation of the Crimea – a former Ukrainian territory – by Russia. The vehicles on display are Russian-made and Russian-operated relics, found on Ukrainian soils.
Kiev Monument Victory Soviet Statue Gigantic Patriotic War Motherland
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum Russian Aggression
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum Russian Aggression
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum
Kiev Monument Victory Soviet Statue Gigantic Patriotic War
As the explanatory panels tell you, they are a proof of unauthorized military actions carried out by Russian troops on the territory of the Ukraine. As of today, the Ukraine and Russia are not openly fighting, but they are not friends.
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum
The Local Conflicts Museum is actually a wonderful collection of military vehicles, tanks, cannons, missiles, a few aircraft and even a submarine and an armored train. They are all from the Soviet weapons arsenal, and despite the name of the museum, there is even a ballistic missile among them.
The collection is split in two parts. One is on display over an apron which can be freely accessed. In this part you can see a few classic Soviet tank designs, rocket launchers and an attack helicopter Mil Mi-24.
Kiev Monument Victory Soviet Statue Gigantic Patriotic War
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum
The second part is located nearby, but it is somewhat more secluded, and can be accessed only with a small fee. Here you meet first a few aircraft, including a Lisunov Li-2, a license-built Soviet copy of the Douglas C-47.
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
There are a few attack aircraft from various ages (you can find many more in the beautiful air museum in Kiev, see here, a must-see for every aviation enthusiast), but what will probably capture your attention is a mighty SS-4 Sandal missile. This strategic missile type, also known as R-12 in the Soviet inventory, was the key element of the Cuban crisis. Before that, its deployment was planned in the last years of the Eisenhower administration also in the German Democratic Republic (see here). This was a major asset for the USSR in the years of the Kennedy administration, and was deployed in large numbers within the borders of the Soviet Union – preferably next to the borders, due its relatively limited range (see here).
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Nearby the missile, you can find its launch gantry, which was anchored to the ground through a metal crown. This is what you find in todays Germany, the scant traces of the planned deployment of this system out of the USSR (see here). Another exemplar of this iconic missile with its gantry tower can be found in an excellent museum close to Minsk, Belarus (see here).
An impressive array of cannons with different calibers, a small submarine and an armored railway car with turrets – a similar one can be found in the Parola Tank Museum in Finland (official website here).
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Also on display is a tactical nuclear missile with its movable canister truck.
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Kiev Local Conflicts Museum War Soviet Cold War WWII Missile
Motherland Statue
This iconic statue is actually one of the youngest WWII monumental memorials of the USSR. Despite being planned soon after the end of the Great Patriotic War in the early Cold War period, it was not until the early 1980s that this metal colossus was built and inaugurated, at the presence of the then-Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev.
Kiev Monument Victory Soviet Statue Gigantic Patriotic War
Kiev Monument Victory Soviet Statue Gigantic Patriotic War
Kiev Monument Victory Soviet Statue Gigantic Patriotic War
Kiev Monument Victory Soviet Statue Gigantic Patriotic War
Kiev Monument Victory Soviet Statue Gigantic Patriotic War
Kiev Monument Victory Soviet Statue Gigantic Patriotic War
Kiev Monument Victory Soviet Statue Gigantic Patriotic War
The statue stands on a very nice natural stage, on top of a cliff dominating a wide panorama with river Dnepr in the middle.
Kiev Monument Victory Soviet Statue Gigantic Patriotic War
Kiev Monument Victory Soviet Statue Gigantic Patriotic War
Kiev Monument Victory Soviet Statue Gigantic Patriotic War
Kiev Monument Victory Soviet Statue Gigantic Patriotic War Motherland
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Panorama
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial
The area around the monument forms a WWII memorial. There is provision for a big eternal flame, which despite the name is not constantly operating due to the massive gas flow needed for feeding it. Scattered around are some interesting groups of sculptures celebrating the efforts and the final victory of the USSR in WWII.
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial
Kiev Monument Victory Soviet Statue Gigantic Patriotic War
Kiev Monument Victory Soviet Statue Gigantic Patriotic War
Kiev Monument Victory Soviet Statue Gigantic Patriotic War
Kiev Monument Victory Soviet Statue Gigantic Patriotic War
The foundations of the Motherland Statue host a nice crypt with the names of thousands of soldiers and civilians fallen in the battles over the Ukrainian territory during the Great Patriotic War (which is WWII for the USSR).
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Besides the slabs with the names carved in them, there is very nice and sober mosaic decoration on the ceiling.
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
You can get access to the crypt visiting the Ukrainian State Museum of the Great Patriotic War.
Ukrainian State Museum of the Great Patriotic War
Similar to other museums dedicated to the Soviet actions in WWII you can find in Moscow and Minsk, this collection is a true must-see for anybody with an interest in the topic. The museum right under the Motherland Statue, with access from the front of the monument (official website here). In the case of the museum in Kiev, the totally Soviet construction adds to the value, with red stone and bronze lamps and ceiling decoration adding to the atmosphere.
Before you get access to the original collection, you can see in the hall of the museum, and in a few small rooms nearby the entrance, material from the recent Russian-Ukrainian confrontation.
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
The original collection is on two floors. There are uniforms, flags, many weapons, military gear, personal diaries, maps, passports and military papers. What is especially striking is the abundance of German material from the time, with tons of swastikas, Nazi insignia, original uniforms and more.
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
There is a small collection of rare Nazi daggers. Other interesting items include an Italian-issued certificate of merit, given to a Soviet soldier fighting in the Italian resistance movement.
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
There are clearly also many Soviet artifacts from the time, including original newspapers, books autographed by Stalin, and more. There is also the wreck of a downed Soviet aircraft.
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
On the top floor you get access to the collection through a monumental wall with metal sculptures.
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Further Nazi and Soviet gear, uniforms, medals and papers are on display here. There is a diorama portraying the battle of Berlin, and even some Japanese war material – the USSR fought against the Japanese Empire especially in the months between the collapse of the Third Reich and the end of WWII in 1945.
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Before you come to the crypt under the Motherland Statue (described above) in the dome on top of the museum, you can visit also a more modern commemorative display, with black and white pictures of people involved in the war.
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Kiev WWII Great Patriotic War Memorial Museum
Independence Square
This is the geographical and symbolic center of Kiev. This large square is crossed by a major road, with massive Soviet apartment or office buildings, which splits it in two.
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Independence Maidan Square
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
On one side there are a few similar buildings creating a curved theatrical set. Looking closer, they are adorned with Soviet iconography, hence probably dating back to Stalin’s years. You may also notice they are not so well-kept – this applies in general to all buildings around the square, producing a strange ‘disorder feeling’.
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
There are traces of an original gate, from older times and misaligned with respect to the main axis of the square.
On the other side, the square is dominated by the monster Soviet building of Hotel Ukraine. This is preceded by a kind of modern mall, flanked by classical buildings probably dating back to an older era.
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
The district around the square is rich of older – pre-Soviet – buildings, making for an interesting stage for a relaxed walk.
Kiev Independence Square Maidan
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture
Kiev Independence Maidan Square
To the south of the square you can find a group of particularly striking examples of Art Nouveau from the late 19th-early 20th century. Some of them are really world-class masterpieces, like the famous Chimera House, with sea monsters, animals and various strange creatures haunting the house.
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture Chimera House
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture Chimera House
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture Chimera House
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture Chimera House
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture Chimera House
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture Chimera House
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture Chimera House
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture Chimera House
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture Chimera House
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture Chimera House
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture Chimera House
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture Chimera House
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture Chimera House
Kiev Nouveau Liberty Architecture Chimera House
Golden Gate
A few minutes walking from Independence Square you can find the so-called Golden Gate, which is a reconstruction of one of the medieval gates of the city. The appearance of Kiev was greatly altered following its evolution in the centuries, leading to the disappearance of the walls and gates of the ancient city. The famous Mussorgsky theme closing the Paintings of an Exhibition is dedicated to the ‘Gate of Kiev’ – this monuments provides an idea of the real size an shape of such a gate.
Kiev Monument Gate Great
Kiev Monument Gate Great
Kiev Soviet Architecture
Kiev Soviet Architecture
Kiev Architecture
In the district around the monument there are examples of buildings from many ages and architectural styles. Soviet emblems are featured on many facades.
Chernobyl National Museum
Kiev is located less than 70 miles from Chernobyl power-plant. As a secondary effect of the increased popularity of Chernobyl as a tourist destination – as a result of the recent encapsulation of the ill-fated plant into a hi-tech protective armor increasing safety for visitors – Kiev has become a crossroads for international tourists.
The Chernobyl National Museum (official website here) has the function of a documents center for the accident, with rare artifacts taken away from the exclusion zone, papers and recordings from the time of the accident (1986), models of the power-plant and the contaminated area, and more.
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Among the weirdest items on display, some specimen of mutated plants and trees, a mommy of a mutated animal, and photographs of similar subjects.
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Another area of the museum is actually a memorial for those who perished, suffered a severe health condition or were deported for safety reasons after the accident. The latter happened to a number of smaller villages, including the now well-known Pripyat, which has turned into one of the largest ghost towns in the world.
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
There is also a quick pictorial overview of the Fukushima accident.
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
Kiev Chernobyl Museum
The district where the museum is located, north of Saint Andrew’s Cathedral, features several old-fashioned and classical buildings from pre-Soviet times, and Art Nouveau buildings as well.
Kiev Architecture
Kiev Mohyla
Kiev Mohyla
Kiev Mohyla
Kiev Mohyla
Kiev Andriivsky Descent
Kiev Andriivsky Descent
Kiev Architecture
Kiev Andriivsky Descent
Kiev Architecture
Kiev Architecture
Kiev Architecture
Kiev Architecture
Kiev Architecture
Yet some Soviet monsters are scattered around the district, like market buildings and university buildings – don’t forget Kiev used to be a capital of a Soviet Republic!
